What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Sting]

Stick the full set of automatic injectors in it and save up for some bigger sticks and a burpod tune. you won't notice much of a differance between the stock injectors anyway.

Well that's some good news then. I did have to swap a 10mm injector pump into the engine after some issues found after. Will the difference stillI on the negligible side?

I had already pre loosened the injectors on the spare engine. Can I just put them back in and tighten them back down, or do I need to change the copper washers before I do that? I have new ones, so not a big deal. Any other considerations before I lock them back down?

I also have newer fuel lines from the old engine that I'll be swapping over too. I'd changed all the soft lines last fall.

 

[Zak99b5]

Well I think I have a problem with Cylinder#1 injector... Pulled it out and it just didn't look right... I pulled number 2... Looks like when the engine failed there must have been some contact inside. The second lifter over Cylinder 1 was the problem area.

So what now? My spare engine is from an automatic... Can I use the injector from it? My understanding is that the nozzle is different.

If not, better to source a full set of used ones, or just the one?

I'm new to this kind of issue. Thanks in advance.

DSC_5512.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 17, 2025

I've got a set of used injectors, pulled them from my car (running fine) to replace them with bigger ones from powertdi. They've been cleaned & sitting in ATF since. PM me if interested.

 

[Sting]

I've got a set of used injectors, pulled them from my car (running fine) to replace them with bigger ones from powertdi. They've been cleaned & sitting in ATF since. PM me if interested.

Hei brother, appreciate it. I'm out in BC though...

 

[Sting]

If I decide to run the automatic injectors I have, am I really going to notice the difference that much with the 10mm pump?

But I am gonna make a couple calls though, see what I might be able to source locally.

 

[BobnOH]

You will notice a difference. But you'll have your old injectors in hand to send in for new nozzles

 

[Sting]

You will notice a difference. But you'll have your old injectors in hand to send in for new nozzles

I've never driven anything but a stock manual ALH - how much will I notice?

Gonna repeat a question... If I go with the automatic injectors, can I just tighten them back down, or do I still have to change the washers?

 

[BobnOH]

No idea.
Just so they don't leak.

 

[JETaah]

If I decide to run the automatic injectors I have, am I really going to notice the difference that much with the 10mm pump?

But I am gonna make a couple calls though, see what I might be able to source locally.

I don't doubt that you will. I sure did.

 

[dieseldonato]

Its a difference, but not huge enough to make me buy another set of stock manual injectors. 10mm pump or not.
You should at least pop the injectors out and make sure no carbon or dirt has fallen between the copper and head/ injector. Best practice is to replace the coppers, but I've reused them in a pinch.

 

[454k30]

Had 3m tint applied to all glass except the windshield. I also washed and shined up a bit, then took these poser photos.

 

[Sting]

Its a difference, but not huge enough to make me buy another set of stock manual injectors. 10mm pump or not.
You should at least pop the injectors out and make sure no carbon or dirt has fallen between the copper and head/ injector. Best practice is to replace the coppers, but I've reused them in a pinch.

Thank you!

I have new washers, so no skin off my nose to change them. I only asked since I've only loosened them and didn't pull 3 of the 4 right out. But if its worth checking for the carbon/dirt, I'll change them. I'm trying to see if I can get at least one manual injector, or a 2003 set, as I really don't want to have to fart around with depinning the connector and all that jazz.

 

[J_dude]

Thank you!

I have new washers, so no skin off my nose to change them. I only asked since I've only loosened them and didn't pull 3 of the 4 right out. But if its worth checking for the carbon/dirt, I'll change them. I'm trying to see if I can get at least one manual injector, or a 2003 set, as I really don't want to have to fart around with depinning the connector and all that jazz.

Again I don’t know for sure, but I wonder if used injectors maybe shouldn’t be “mixed and matched”
Also depinning those plugs is really simple, can be done with a paperclip.

 

[P2B]

Thank you!

I have new washers, so no skin off my nose to change them. I only asked since I've only loosened them and didn't pull 3 of the 4 right out. But if its worth checking for the carbon/dirt, I'll change them. I'm trying to see if I can get at least one manual injector, or a 2003 set, as I really don't want to have to fart around with depinning the connector and all that jazz.

I just anneal the used washers - hang them on a piece of wire, heat them cherry red with a torch, drop them in water.

The installation process is more important than whether washers are new or used. You want the bores and seats scrupulously clean, then seat the injectors by tapping with a slide hammer. Torque the hold down clamps to spec, then tap the injectors again and retorque the clamps.

 

[Sting]

I just anneal the used washers - hang them on a piece of wire, heat them cherry red with a torch, drop them in water.

The installation process is more important than whether washers are new or used. You want the bores and seats scrupulously clean, then seat the injectors by tapping with a slide hammer. Torque the hold down clamps to spec, then tap the injectors again and retorque the clamps.

You're the man, thank you! 3 of the 4 I didn't pull out all the way, just unseated them. It was just the Cylinder 1 that has been pulled right out. Should just pull them, clean everything and reinstall? I have fresh washers AND a set of annealed ones, so that isn't a big issue.

And... is there a solid way to clean everything WITHOUT dropping crap into the engine? This is a first for me. Want to do it right without problems.

 

[P2B]

You're the man, thank you! 3 of the 4 I didn't pull out all the way, just unseated them.

Doesn't matter, you unseated them so they should come out and be reseated properly. Clean the area as best you can first, vacuum up any loose crud before pulling the injectors, then vacuum again - sand tends to accumulate between the injectors and bores. Pull the washers out if they didn't come with the injectors, then inspect to see if further cleaning of the seats is needed.

 

[Sting]

Again thank you! Will do!

 

[CanadianALH]

Not a mk4 but too good not to share. Jeep CRD 3.0. I found my boost leak lol. Looks like the tensioner or something rubbed through this bad boy and caused a massive leak. It wasn’t obvious and really is so clean (the groove) I mistook it for probably something factory engineered to clear a pulley lol. All the oil around it was the big tip off lol

 

[norbert77]

My son and I put in a new steering rack, away bar bushings and subframe bushings. My noises and leaks went away. I don't get the subframe, why is it solid in front and on bushings on the rear? I was thinking, what about a big washer over the rubber mount that would eliminate it?

 

[pkhoury]

I’m not sure but I would guess they should be replaced as a set.

Definitely replace as a set. Don't ever replace a single injector; ALH injector cores as it is are cheap as $hit. All of mine have nozzle upgrades, but with it comes cleaning and balancing. Mine all get done by Able Diesel in Lewisville, TX (and they can also ship orders out, as I've only been there in person once).

 

[Sting]

Fixed that CPS connector wiring with some butt connectors and heat shrink . Gave it a little extra length.

I noticed the original outer insulation has some kind of foil layer. Before I do the final wrap up with electrical tape, would it be worth it to throw a layer of aluminum foil around the repair area???

DSC_5516.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

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• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

Also, since I'm into all this... I remember a couple people have talked about periodically draining the intercooler. To my knowledge, this has never been done. I remember seeing a post here where someone drilled a hole at the low point and put a screw in to seal it. I was thinking one of those roofing ones with the rubber seal, if I can find one short enough. But where? It seems to me in this picture and looking at the intercooler that the low point seems to be around where the Valeo logo is? Thoughts?

DSC_5518.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Fixed that CPS connector wiring with some butt connectors and heat shrink . Gave it a little extra length.

I noticed the original outer insulation has some kind of foil layer. Before I do the final wrap up with electrical tape, would it be worth it to throw a layer of aluminum foil around the repair area???

DSC_5516.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

DSC_5517.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

Also, since I'm into all this... I remember a couple people have talked about periodically draining the intercooler. To my knowledge, this has never been done. I remember seeing a post here where someone drilled a hole at the low point and put a screw in to seal it. I was thinking one of those roofing ones with the rubber seal, if I can find one short enough. But where? It seems to me in this picture and looking at the intercooler that the low point seems to be around where the Valeo logo is? Thoughts?

DSC_5518.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 19, 2025

I just used a sheet rock screw to plug the hole. 90k miles and no issues.

 

[Sting]

I just used a sheet rock screw to plug the hole. 90k miles and no issues.

Whereabouts did you put it in? Seems to me that Valeo logo area is the spot.

 

[Mozambiquer]

PXL_20250620_014550002.jpg

• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

New alternator in this car. It was towed in from Indiana, (the customer was heading west for a while and dropped it off on the way out) a shop had installed an alternator, but it didn't charge still, so he thought something else must be going on and sent off the cluster and ECM to get tested (tested good) and then it didn't start after that. I found the relay 109 had failed, and the parts store alternator was bad from the box...

PXL_20250619_222622527.jpg

• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

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• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

So, a new OEM alternator, and my upgraded alternator harness, and now it starts, runs and the alternator charges too!
It's a really nice car, with the black leather sport seats and an O2M 6 speed swap, rocket chip tune and etc. it was nice to have it all going for the customer again!

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Whereabouts did you put it in? Seems to me that Valeo logo area is the spot.

Hard to tell from the bottom. I think I put it in the second space over from the multiple squares. My bug may sit slighlty differently then yours though (beetle IC is different the J/G). I just find what seems to be the lowest. Doesn't have to be perfect by any means. There is always oil in there. Your just trying to prevent it from filling up.

 

[P2B]

I noticed the original outer insulation has some kind of foil layer. Before I do the final wrap up with electrical tape, would it be worth it to throw a layer of aluminum foil around the repair area???

The foil is an interference shield because the CPS signal is very low voltage. I doubt the short length of missing shielding will be an issue, but if you did want to add, it needs to connect to the existing shield (which will be grounded) to have any effect.

 

[Striker223]

Found the car is missing about .3 quarts of oil, likely being eaten by the turbo if I was to guess. I'm only about half way though the OCI so this is annoying, zero external leaks so I guess the turbo is finally giving up.

 

[dieseldonato]

Dont dismiss the crank case vent. It can spew quite a bit of oil into the intake.

 

[wonneber]

I just used a sheet rock screw to plug the hole. 90k miles and no issues.

It wouldn't hurt to wrap foil around the wire bunch then a layer or two of black electrical tape.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Found the car is missing about .3 quarts of oil, likely being eaten by the turbo if I was to guess. I'm only about half way though the OCI so this is annoying, zero external leaks so I guess the turbo is finally giving up.

I wouldn't even bat an eye at that kind of oil consumption over 5k miles (assuming 10k OCI). You can pull the lower intercooler pipe and see if you find your missing 0.3 quarts of oil.

 

[norbert77]

PXL_20250620_014550002.jpg

• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

New alternator in this car. It was towed in from Indiana, (the customer was heading west for a while and dropped it off on the way out) a shop had installed an alternator, but it didn't charge still, so he thought something else must be going on and sent off the cluster and ECM to get tested (tested good) and then it didn't start after that. I found the relay 109 had failed, and the parts store alternator was bad from the box...

PXL_20250619_222622527.jpg

• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

PXL_20250619_222617025.jpg

• Mozambiquer
• Jun 19, 2025

So, a new OEM alternator, and my upgraded alternator harness, and now it starts, runs and the alternator charges too!
It's a really nice car, with the black leather sport seats and an O2M 6 speed swap, rocket chip tune and etc. it was nice to have it all going for the customer again!

How often do you see bad parts store alternators? I just got 2 Napa alternators back to back that charge, but have slow drains in them