What did you do to your MKIV today?

[csstevej]

Diesel geeks super sliders came in the mail today….. installed one in youngest daughters NB and first gear is now like butter to get into….. her old one was definitely worn.
Also installed second one into my car and now my first gear is a lot easier to get into.
My old slider was worn also…..

 

[J_dude]

The ride is better now, as is the appearance.

No pics to show off?

 

[Mozambiquer]

Not my MK4, but today I installed a new old stock 01m transmission in a two-point slow MK4. The owner had attempted to do a valve body replacement with one from eBay, and broke some stuff inside the case. After getting everything together and taking it on a test drive, it immediately went into transmission limp mode with a g68 fault. No speed from the g68, was likely the issue to start with. It probably wasn't even the valve body, the customer had called and asked how much to put a transmission in. I gave him a quote and said I would have to do some testing first to make sure that that is the issue, it would have saved them several grand if they had brought it to me first instead of trying to replace the valve body themselves without doing any testing. But ce est la vie.

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• Mozambiquer
• Jun 13, 2025

And then on a TDI MK4, had one towed down from Indiana from a club member, it had been taken to a shop for a charging issue, a shop replaced the alternator, and it still didn't charge. They did some testing, and thought maybe the cluster was bad, sent the cluster off to get tested, the cluster came back as good, no issues found, but car wouldn't start after that. I found no power to the ECM. Relay 109 was failed. I put a test relay 109 in and then I had ECM communication again, but it was still a crank no start. I fairly quickly realized that the fuel system had bled back, so I needed to crack the injector lines open and voila! It started! Then on to the charging issue... the parts store alternator that the other shop had installed was bad from the box. Thankfully I know a guy... Oh yeah! That is me! New OEM alternator on the shelf, and it'll be good!

Pic of my toy. A dyvo, which is for load testing wires. It works great!

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• Mozambiquer
• Jun 13, 2025

 

[Boosty]

I decided it was time to change oil in The Squat Hatchling, so got a gallon of delo 400 from wallyworld, a can of Sea Foam from napa for 8 quatloos, installed it in said crankcase, and then drove several doxzen miles to anopther napa that had the ceratec.... for arounds 8 bucks more than the napa I had just visited, wich said they had none but there were cans of it right next to the can of Sea Foam I bought. Anyway I knew I had to mix the Sea Foam into the innards so it could emulsify, detoxify, and disolve all that ailed my precious BEW. Got a can of ceratec and drove about 50 miles at breakneck speed to the local jiffy place in Vincennes. This particular jiffy place had treated me right a few days prior, where they drained psu pump and refilled with fluid I brought for a measly ten spot.
I showed up and no other customers were present so knew I'd get in and out fast. I handed them the goods and told them to add the cerewhatsit first then top it off with the oil. The tech guy there showed me his side project while they waited for cars to work on; a home made violin for his son, and that thing was nice!

Anyway the guy running the place asked me to fire it up and hold it around 2krpm for a bit after they got it buttoned up as they looked for leaks and whatnot, immediately noted the stupid thing was far quieter at idle and 2krpm roar than when i pulled in, and all was as the Germans designed. I fully expected them to charge me mebbe a 20 since I brought my own goods, oh no, it was 64 quatloos out the door. Not going back there for oil changes lol. It seemed quieter and smoother as I pulled away with my much emptier than expected wallet. Immediately ran down to Evansville to embed the goop into all the whirling gizmos inside the fabulous BEW TDI, a 100mi round trip (wich I regretted as the rain was so bad at some spots you couldn't see the car ahead of you), ran fine the entire way, and now the itch to try the much vaunted/highly touted ceratec has been sated. It needed an oil change, just didn't expect it to come out closer to 150 quatloos than 50.

 

[lapse]

My '03 Jetta has been grinding when changing gears for the past few months. Finally got around to sourcing some transmission oil. I decided to suck it out from the top instead of dropping the belly pan. Not too concerned about doing it the "right way" via the drain plug.

Approximately 1.5L out, and 1.7L in and it shifts like new now!

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• lapse
• Jun 14, 2025

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• lapse
• Jun 14, 2025

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• lapse
• Jun 14, 2025

 

[hey_allen]

I decided to suck it out from the top instead of dropping the belly pan.

I really should have thought about doing that myself, as I already do that for my engine oil!
I'd been putting off doing my transmission oil for a couple years, just being lazy and it being a low frequency task...

 

[lapse]

I really should have thought about doing that myself, as I already do that for my engine oil!
I'd been putting off doing my transmission oil for a couple years, just being lazy and it being a low frequency task...

This is the first time in over 20 years. I searched high and low to see if anyone had done it top-side before, but nadda. Last weekend, I pulled out the battery tray to see if the fill plug was accessible and it was just barely. I picked up a low profile metric hex bit set from Uncle Bezos and we were off to the races today. With a bit of yoga, I was able to fit my ratchet on it and a few teeth of engagement was all it took to spin out the plug.

I have an '03 Golf as well that will need a change in the future so I'll be prepared LOL

 

[hey_allen]

This is the first time in over 20 years. I searched high and low to see if anyone had done it top-side before, but nadda. Last weekend, I pulled out the battery tray to see if the fill plug was accessible and it was just barely. I picked up a low profile metric hex bit set from Uncle Bezos and we were off to the races today. With a bit of yoga, I was able to fit my ratchet on it and a few teeth of engagement was all it took to spin out the plug.

I have an '03 Golf as well that will need a change in the future so I'll be prepared LOL

I was planning on going through the shift tower for the fill, but have no idea if I could fit the extraction tube through there as well.

I need to replace my shift linkage pivot bearing and have a shift improver kit from diesel geek, though no idea where it got off to during my move.

 

[lapse]

I was planning on going through the shift tower for the fill, but have no idea if I could fit the extraction tube through there as well.

I need to replace my shift linkage pivot bearing and have a shift improver kit from diesel geek, though no idea where it got off to during my move.

I was considering the shift tower as well, but was concerned if there were any obstructions that would prevent the extraction tube from hitting the bottom of the transmission case. TBH, I had the same concern when extracting from the fill hole but sucking out 1.5L put that to rest fairly easily!

 

[Sting]

Started work on my engine swap... Front clip is off, working on disconnections.

But... Small problem that grey connector next to the injector 3 connector.. Small black wire broke. Sigh. The one on the harness that came with my automatic equipped spare has better looking one... Gonna take things apart so I can get a bunch of wiring and swap the plugs... I'm not even going to try to repair the existing plug... Barely any wire left up by it.

What would be the best way to marry the ends of the wires together, just twist and wrap with electrical tape? Some kind of connectors?

Unless someone else has a better idea?

Outside of that, things went pretty smoothly. I'm in no big hurry, which is good... Some of those hoses and connectors were a real pain to get undone.

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• Sting
• Jun 15, 2025

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• Sting
• Jun 15, 2025

 

[P2B]

Small problem that grey connector next to the injector 3 connector.. Small black wire broke.

That's the CPS - kinda critical

My first choice would be to re-pin the wires directly into the connector, assuming you can unwrap the harness a bit to get sufficient length. Failing that, use the connector from your spare harness cut as long as possible, twist the wires together, cover with heat shrink then tape the join to the harness for mechanical support.

 

[Jsiets21]

Started work on my engine swap... Front clip is off, working on disconnections.

But... Small problem that grey connector next to the injector 3 connector.. Small black wire broke. Sigh. The one on the harness that came with my automatic equipped spare has better looking one... Gonna take things apart so I can get a bunch of wiring and swap the plugs... I'm not even going to try to repair the existing plug... Barely any wire left up by it.

What would be the best way to marry the ends of the wires together, just twist and wrap with electrical tape? Some kind of connectors?

Unless someone else has a better idea?

Outside of that, things went pretty smoothly. I'm in no big hurry, which is good... Some of those hoses and connectors were a real pain to get undone.

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• Sting
• Jun 15, 2025

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• Sting
• Jun 15, 2025

I had that happen but with the orange wire, instead of swapping it I soldered it back together than wrapped it in electrical tape, 1200 miles and it’s still holding up

 

[[486]]

if there ain't enough wire sticking outta the connector body when you remove that strain relief cap, then pull the pin outta the connector and solder a wire directly to it
mush the rubber seal donut back in there around the wire, even though it ain't crimped together it should mash in there enough to seal
then make sure you get the tape wrap up inside the connector's strain relief
it keeps the bending off of the tiny wires and more on the rest of the wire

 

[P2B]

I had that happen but with the orange wire, instead of swapping it I soldered it back together than wrapped it in electrical tape, 1200 miles and it’s still holding up

Soldering is not ideal. Fatigue from vibration will eventually cause the wire to break where the solder meets the copper.

 

[Sting]

Well I looked at the other plug, considering that the wires are exposed just below the plug on my original, I think swapping them is the better choice as I'm not familiar with repinning, and I could see those other two wires having further issues as they've been exposed for some time.

Progress is good though, front clip is off and I think I've gotten most of the electrical connections undone and vacuum lines.

Going to grab the wiring from the donor harness for the glow plug harness as it's in better shape as well.

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• Sting
• Jun 16, 2025

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• Sting
• Jun 16, 2025

 

[Nuje]

If you did have to repair / replace just that wire, the proper way would be to find a wire that had the same terminal on it and cut a 2-3" section of wire with that terminal. Then use a heat-shrink butt connector (Amazon - get an assortment - example - that includes both the pink ones and the smaller clear ones that are for 22-24g wire) to join that to the wiring in the car. It's the "factory" way of doing wiring splices; you can get VW butt connectors from the dealer, but they go for over $1.00ea instead of closer to $.01ea.

 

[Sting]

Yeah, I really want to use the connector from the "spare" harness. As you saw in the pics, it looks much nicer and the wires are better protected.

I'll see if I can source some of those butt connectors locally... I hate having to order stuff online sometimes. Especially for little niddly stuff like this.

I have some butt connectors, but they are meant for bigger wires.

 

[wonneber]

Yeah, I really want to use the connector from the "spare" harness. As you saw in the pics, it looks much nicer and the wires are better protected.

I'll see if I can source some of those butt connectors locally... I hate having to order stuff online sometimes. Especially for little niddly stuff like this.

I have some butt connectors, but they are meant for bigger wires.

Their inexpensive.
Go to the local auto parts store and buy a few pack of the size you think you will need.
I would rather have a few extras because if I don't then I have to stop and go to get them.
$ Add fuel cost going both ways.

 

[pkhoury]

What did I do to my mk4...

Well, around 3am Monday morning, I blew out my rear left tire, while doing about 75 on Interstate 10 heading back to my old place from my ranch (I like working at night, so I don't get symptoms of heat stroke during the day, not that the humidity has been much better).

I'm so glad I ordered a replacement 16" DWS06 for a spare 16" rim, because DSOL still had the factory original, Made in Germany, 2001 date code Conti Pro Contact in the back, in practically mint condition. But no f**king way I'm running a 24 year old spare if I get a flat, or worse, like this tread separation.

Changing was easy, though it was slightly unnerving when a few @ssholes didn't want to move to the passing lane, despite hazard lights and other lights pointing their direction. I did drive half off the shoulder though, just to give myself extra room to work.






I have two more DWS06 Plus on the way tomorrow.

Then today, I got a mysterious 16490 code (shown in ColorMFA, as I didn't have VCDS handy). Car was in limp mode. Code went away about the third time I cleared it and hasn't come back, which was kinda odd. Last time I went into limp mode (same car) was due to the vacuum hose to my reservoir being chewed up by rodents (or something).

 

[Zak99b5]

No pics to show off?

I'll get to it haha

 

[Zak99b5]

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• Zak99b5
• Jun 17, 2025

TT Eibachs

Front is sitting a little higher than the rear, but i'd only driven it about 30 miles so not settled in yet.

 

[wonneber]

What did I do to my mk4...

Well, around 3am Monday morning, I blew out my rear left tire, while doing about 75 on Interstate 10 heading back to my old place from my ranch (I like working at night, so I don't get symptoms of heat stroke during the day, not that the humidity has been much better).

I'm so glad I ordered a replacement 16" DWS06 for a spare 16" rim, because DSOL still had the factory original, Made in Germany, 2001 date code Conti Pro Contact in the back, in practically mint condition. But no f**king way I'm running a 24 year old spare if I get a flat, or worse, like this tread separation.

Changing was easy, though it was slightly unnerving when a few @ssholes didn't want to move to the passing lane, despite hazard lights and other lights pointing their direction. I did drive half off the shoulder though, just to give myself extra room to work.






I have two more DWS06 Plus on the way tomorrow.

Then today, I got a mysterious 16490 code (shown in ColorMFA, as I didn't have VCDS handy). Car was in limp mode. Code went away about the third time I cleared it and hasn't come back, which was kinda odd. Last time I went into limp mode (same car) was due to the vacuum hose to my reservoir being chewed up by rodents (or something).

Several years ago I hit a pothole doing 65 MPH (US) not far from home going to an electronics store.
It rained all night and was still drizzling so the crater I couldn't see I hit HARD and less then a minute later I heard & felt THUMP THUMP and the low tire light came on.
Whoever rotated my tires last never used a torque stick or torque wrench.
I couldn't loosen any lug nuts with my X lug wrench.
Had to get towed to a repair shop to get the tire changed.
This was also a Sunday so there was a additional charge for the truck to come out on a non work day.
The tire was also destroyed but I was able to drive. to get home again.
Went to the VW dealer I use for repairs the next week to get the same tire (model & all) put on the rim & balanced.
They told me to put the tire on the back as they couldn't get the tire prefect.
All together the bill was just over $800 OUCH!!
There went my budget for the month.
Now I carry a 3/4 braker bar and torque torque wrench.
Lesson learned the hard way.

 

[Sting]

Well I think I have a problem with Cylinder#1 injector... Pulled it out and it just didn't look right... I pulled number 2... Looks like when the engine failed there must have been some contact inside. The second lifter over Cylinder 1 was the problem area.

So what now? My spare engine is from an automatic... Can I use the injector from it? My understanding is that the nozzle is different.

If not, better to source a full set of used ones, or just the one?

I'm new to this kind of issue. Thanks in advance.

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• Sting
• Jun 17, 2025

 

[J_dude]

Well I think I have a problem with Cylinder#1 injector... Pulled it out and it just didn't look right... I pulled number 2... Looks like when the engine failed there must have been some contact inside. The second lifter over Cylinder 1 was the problem area.

So what now? My spare engine is from an automatic... Can I use the injector from it? My understanding is that the nozzle is different.

If not, better to source a full set of used ones, or just the one?

I'm new to this kind of issue. Thanks in advance.

DSC_5512.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 17, 2025

Any reason you wouldn’t swap in the full set from the automatic?
I think they’re a bit smaller nozzle size but for now that would get you going.

 

[Sting]

Any reason you wouldn’t swap in the full set from the automatic?
I think they’re a bit smaller nozzle size but for now that would get you going.

Not really... I'm not aware of any issues with them.

I know the nozzle size is smaller.

I am planning a road trip at the beginning of July, so I'd much rather have the manual injectors.

Would I better off sourcing a full set? Or can I replace just one? There is someone with multiple parts cars near me. Going to text him tomorrow and see what he'll charge.

 

[J_dude]

Would I better off sourcing a full set? Or can I replace just one?

I’m not sure but I would guess they should be replaced as a set.

 

[P2B]

can I replace just one?

It won't run right with two different size nozzles.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Well I think I have a problem with Cylinder#1 injector... Pulled it out and it just didn't look right... I pulled number 2... Looks like when the engine failed there must have been some contact inside. The second lifter over Cylinder 1 was the problem area.

So what now? My spare engine is from an automatic... Can I use the injector from it? My understanding is that the nozzle is different.

If not, better to source a full set of used ones, or just the one?

I'm new to this kind of issue. Thanks in advance.

DSC_5512.JPG

• Sting
• Jun 17, 2025

You need to pull the head... You've probably got a broken valve.
Edit: did you just rebuild, but it had a dropped valve before? Maybe I didn't read correctly?

 

[P2B]

You need to pull the head... You've probably got a broken valve.
Edit: did you just rebuild, but it had a dropped valve before? Maybe I didn't read correctly?

Something bad happened to this engine so he's swapping in a spare he has on hand. Was planning to swap the injectors over but...

 

[dieseldonato]

Stick the full set of automatic injectors in it and save up for some bigger sticks and a burpod tune. you wont notice much of a differance between the stock injectors anyway.