I didn’t even know this was possible
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
Got it - Thanks for translating
I'm a big fan of oil filtration so I like anything that improves that. My "kit" is just the standard kit from Amsoil and uses the Ea BP spin-on filters. I made a bracket to hold the head on the right side of the block and another bracket to support the end of the spin on since it's cantilevered off to the left. It pulls oil from the oil pressure switch port on the main filter housing and returns oil to the drain plug. The Ea BP-110 filter will fit in this location so it adds ~2 extra quarts of oil and I change it each timing belt interval.
Timing belt interval? That sounds way too long. Especially on a diesel. You have a way to check is foil still flowing through it? Like if you shut it down for 20 minutes for the canister to cool, when you turn on can you feel warm oil flowing into the filter?
SilverGhost
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2005
- Location
- Back in So Flo - St Lucie
- TDI
- '05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
My set up or the filter I used?
Here is the retainer I took off <<link>>
Then put in new hollow stud and nut like this <<link>>
Now you can screw on a filter, remote filter adaptor, remote cooler, etc. I just found a filter from Trasko-USA.com that fit the threads. I think the one I used is TI-10SS. Correct threads and small enough to fit easily.
Jason
northern diesel
Veteran Member
Today I opened a gift that keeps on giving from the tuner who keeps on tuning. Full Cheshire Cat smiles while passing folks and scanning for cops while logging my drive to town.
My latest version of @burpod ‘s tune for my BEW auto wagon is by far the smoothest, peppiest and most fun to drive.
I noticed right away that lower rpm’s felt like they were engaging the boost more than previous tunes - and the foot stomp automatic test was buttery.
I logged one drive to town, but unfortunately while in town the cold drained the battery on my vcds laptop. But seriously what a guy! This has to be what all the hype is about that you may read if you’re new or a veteran poster on this forum.
He admittedly hates automatics - and yet he found time to tweak the tune that I had been driving for some time now with yet another better version.
I can’t say enough.. The GOAT
Do yourself a favour - and get you a personalized tune for your whip. (unless you got an auto- maybe swap it first)
That’s a call back joke to how much he dislikes AT s
My latest version of @burpod ‘s tune for my BEW auto wagon is by far the smoothest, peppiest and most fun to drive. I noticed right away that lower rpm’s felt like they were engaging the boost more than previous tunes - and the foot stomp automatic test was buttery.
I logged one drive to town, but unfortunately while in town the cold drained the battery on my vcds laptop. But seriously what a guy! This has to be what all the hype is about that you may read if you’re new or a veteran poster on this forum.
He admittedly hates automatics - and yet he found time to tweak the tune that I had been driving for some time now with yet another better version.
I can’t say enough.. The GOAT
Do yourself a favour - and get you a personalized tune for your whip. (unless you got an auto- maybe swap it first
)That’s a call back joke to how much he dislikes AT s
GlowBugTDI
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2018
- Location
- Cambridge, MN
- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Wires must not have held their form until you got the door card back in its place?
Next time you have your drivers door apart you can switch your black and browns switch giving you a poping fuel flap for trunk and trunk pop when fuel switch is pulled. Could make it the opposites beetle.
Had the beetle up on stands looking for a knock. Only when I apply the brake hard enough, once, then it resets after accelerating. Also slight Ly different knock when left tire hits a slight depression in road. Since it is all new suspension under it, it must be the subframe bushing. Hard to change? Anyone in Hamilton that can tackle it?
With the colder temps and weaker battery, the last few days I've been throwing a couple of loading blankets over the engine after getting home from work to keep things a little warmer. I used to do it back in Ontario on really bitter days, and it seems to help vs going without. I think if I can get over the cold hump right now, the battery will hold out until the fall.
I wouldn't want to stress the alternator, I'd throw the battery out. Or at least get a smart charger with repair feature, and have a go at it. 50-50 chance battery can improve
No coolant heater?
oilhammer
Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Oh man, I've thrown so many of those worthless things in the scrap barrel over the years... You can CLEARLY see in your pic it doesn't even fit the post correctly, LOL.
If you want a different style battery connector, for whatever reason, that doesn't have the cable attached to it, go buy one of the pole-specific ends from a Toyota or Nissan dealer. They have a nice M8x1.25 lug on them, and you can attach any properly crimped eyelet ended cable on to them.
There are aftermarket versions, but some are pretty crummy. I find the genuine Toyota or Nissan (made by the same people, probably other Japanese brands use them, too) fit and work the best.
Example part number:
24340-7F001
If you want a different style battery connector, for whatever reason, that doesn't have the cable attached to it, go buy one of the pole-specific ends from a Toyota or Nissan dealer. They have a nice M8x1.25 lug on them, and you can attach any properly crimped eyelet ended cable on to them.
There are aftermarket versions, but some are pretty crummy. I find the genuine Toyota or Nissan (made by the same people, probably other Japanese brands use them, too) fit and work the best.
Example part number:
24340-7F001
I’m a big fan of the OEM brass ends myself.
Somebody on here pointed out that you can cut and drill the OEM cables out if they’re bad and then run a bolt through the hole to attach your properly crimped eyelet ends with.
Somebody on here pointed out that you can cut and drill the OEM cables out if they’re bad and then run a bolt through the hole to attach your properly crimped eyelet ends with.
Me too, but it was the only half-decent looking terminal at the parts store and the allen-style cable clamps, worked well with the cars ground cable being cut and striped back.
Unfortunately they only had a "+" sized terminal which (with the extra shim) works for now. Definitely cranks faster that with the factory ground clamp that had slight corrosion visible on the cable end. Probably going to swap in a brass negative terminal from a boat store but it's snowing out today.
Dumb question probably, but... I've not done it with this car. I was thinking of giving my battery posts and clamps a cleaning with a dash of dielectric grease after... any issues with a short term disconnect of the battery? My last car was an E30, and it never did anything except wipe out my radio settings. I seem to remember reading something a long time ago that there would be an issue... but maybe I'm wrong.
burpod
teh stallionz!!1
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2004
- Location
- cape cod, ma
- TDI
- 82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
That's what I've done
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2002 Golf 6MT; 2015 Sportwagen 6MT; 2016 A3 e-tron 6DSG
No issues on the Mk4 cars. At worst, the clock and trip odometer resets, and MAYBE you need to enter the SAFE code for a factory stereo.
The engine and the rest of the car doesn't care if the battery's been disconnected for 10minutes, 10 hours, or 10 months.
gmenounos
Vendor
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Watertown, MA, USA
- TDI
- '99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion), Non-TDI: '23 Tesla Model 3 AWD
MKIV radios will pair with the cluster in the car (at least the newer clusters with part numbers like 1J0920xxx) so you don't need to enter the SAFE code unless you move the radio to a different car or install a new cluster.
vwcluster/RadioChallengeResponse.md at main · gmenounos/vwcluster
Contribute to gmenounos/vwcluster development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com
That’s probably where I got it from thenThat's what I've done
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
I bought a 12 point 17mm injector wrench. I'm looking forward to using it when I do the head replacement. Knockoff of the VAG 3035 wrench
I’ve never had any trouble with a regular open end 17mm, why the fancy wrench?
joe00golf
Well-known member
Door insert 3 of 4 is down...... This has by far been my least enjoyable car project. I just lack the patience and motivation to get these looking close to perfect. Being the third one this was actually going well and laying pretty nicely until i realized getting it flat meant not having enough fabric to lay it in next to the bottom door handle hole. It is certainly no show car so I just cut it so the fabric would lay down to the insert and just made a patch. Its black so it hides all the imperfections in any photos and kind of in person but I have just sucked getting these things to not have creases. It still looks alot better than the dirty sagging gray material that was on their though.
Looks good, I like the two-tone.Door insert 3 of 4 is down...... This has by far been my least enjoyable car project. I just lack the patience and motivation to get these looking close to perfect. Being the third one this was actually going well and laying pretty nicely until i realized getting it flat meant not having enough fabric to lay it in next to the bottom door handle hole. It is certainly no show car so I just cut it so the fabric would lay down to the insert and just made a patch. Its black so it hides all the imperfections in any photos and kind of in person but I have just sucked getting these things to not have creases. It still looks alot better than the dirty sagging gray material that was on their though.
P2B
Top Post Dawg
A regular wrench allows just enough rotation to make r&r of the hard lines possible (in the right order). The fancy wrench makes it easy, even with the coupling clamps in place.
Ju
Just did mine. It sucks. I got a cheap replacement from Ali x and seems decently made. I did a crap job putting it onDoor insert 3 of 4 is down...... This has by far been my least enjoyable car project. I just lack the patience and motivation to get these looking close to perfect. Being the third one this was actually going well and laying pretty nicely until i realized getting it flat meant not having enough fabric to lay it in next to the bottom door handle hole. It is certainly no show car so I just cut it so the fabric would lay down to the insert and just made a patch. Its black so it hides all the imperfections in any photos and kind of in person but I have just sucked getting these things to not have creases. It still looks alot better than the dirty sagging gray material that was on their though.
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
This.
It's a flare nut wrench but is 12 point and contorted to give you room to swing it. When I did my HG a few years ago I just used an open end wrench, and a crow's foot flare nut wrench, but both were running into things, and it didn't turn far enough to reposition it.
Here's what it looks like
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
Nice! I need to do my Beetle door cards. Where did you get the material and is there a tutorial your followed?
joe00golf
Well-known member
I just bought cotton fabric off jo-ann fabrics for pretty cheap. There are a bunch of different forum posts and youtube videos out there on how to do it. You may want to buy covers made specifically for them as like I said, they do not lay flat easily and just buying material will leave you with a bunch fo creases. However, I did read some posts where people also had issues getting the form fitted ones to go on nicely. One forum post I found one guy did say he was able to use material from the fabric store and ot have any creases but I did not have the patience to figure out just how he accomplished that with the complex shape of the inserts. Its a rough process. Removing the door panels and grinding done the plastic tabs to remove the inserts is pretty easy. Removing the glue takes awhile. I used a metal scraper and a spoon to get off what I could. Then i used a plastic brush drill attachment and dan dish soap/goo be gone to clean the rest of the junk off. Then comes laying the material which does not go easily as the glue is meant to stick instantly so you cant really remove and readjust. If you want them to look nice, I would pay someone to do it. If you're fine with imperfections, its not too bad to do yourself.