What did you do to your MKIV today?

[norbert77]

The short ver is he doesn't make it easy for us by making a nice graph of the highest to lowest shear strength of a given oil. That'd be nice, one for gas engines, diesels, and atf. Just search for the oil of choice and read the shear strength
There are a lot of forii saying he's a shill for not revealing his secret test rig but I don't care, I've read enough of his blog to consider him legit street cred on the subject, at least way more legit than I am.

Here's his criteria;
"The Wear Protection reference categories are:
* Over 150,000 psi = SPECTACULAR wear protection
* 135,000 psi to 150,000 psi = AMAZING wear protection
* 120,000 psi to 135,000 psi = FANTASTIC wear protection
* 105,000 to 120,000 psi = INCREDIBLE wear protection
* 90,000 to 105,000 psi = OUTSTANDING wear protection
* 75,000 to 90,000 psi = GOOD wear protection
* 60,000 to 75,000 psi = MODERATE wear protection
* 50,000 to 60,000 psi = UNDESIRABLE LOW wear protection
* Below 50,000 psi = CAUTION – EXTREMELY LOW wear protection
The HIGHER the psi value, the BETTER the Wear Protection.
Test result differences between oils of less than 10% are not significant, and oils within that range can be considered approximately equivalent."

For the 2 quarts of gas engine oil I used here's the important bits;
1. 5W30 Quaker State “Full Synthetic” (abbreviated QSFS), dexos 1 Gen “2”, ILSAC GF-6A, API SP = 152,674 psi
$5.72 quart wallyworld

In comparison this is the oil I used for the engine restore treatment as otherwise a synthetic oil might not allow the treatment to adhere to metal as well if at all;
240. 15W40 “NEW” SHELL ROTELLA T Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF-4,CF/SM = 72,022 psi

And the synthetic mobil diesel oil comprising 3 quarts of the change after the 1k mile treatment;
234. 15W40 MOBIL DELVAC 1300 SUPER Diesel Oil conventional, API CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4/SM, SL = 73,300 psi
(I used mobil 1 delvac extreme not the delvac 1300 stuff), $22 gallon wallyworld

Note the non synthetic diesel oil I used is hardly any worse testing than the synthetic I used! That was saddening to me as I, like a lot of other deludes, think synthetics are a true gift from the tech priests (Warhammer 40k reference) and the ne plus ultra (ancient latin for "this is the ****, yo") of lubrication! I figured use the best motor oil I could find at any given walmart (lol), gas or diesel, and add at least some diesel oil to any gas oil as the diesel oil will have the detergents and surfactants and dispersants and astringents technobabble or whatever to counter the soot that the gas oils are not crafted for. I created a homogeneous mixture ratio of 2 gas to 3 diesel quarts. Next time will prolly do 4 gas to 1 diesel. Put in a Mann filter, they seem nicely constructed. All I know is the engine seems to be literally quieter than ever as far as the usual diesel rattle at idle. Is the concoction any better than anything else? Who knows!

I thought Rotella would be near the top. Anything better and cheaper? Wait, is longevity factored in? Oil out of bottle changes in an hour drive. My duramax especially noticable, with new oil the pressure gauge spikes really high

 

[dieseldonato]

If you read his entire blog, you should have taken more away from it then just higher number = better oil, and noticed his biggest worry is gas engine flat tappet cam wear. He even pretty plainly states oil formulated for diesels don't need the high numbers because they are built better. While I agree with mosy of what he says, 20 years and counting as a heavy duty diesel mechanic tells me, there's zero need to make some sort of Frankenstein oil brew for our cars or any other diesel engine out there.
There's also the issue of additive package compatibility. Which he touches on briefly, and why not to add or mix anything into the oil you've selected, or mix oil brands/ types suited for different uses.
While it seems compelling to do, his data doesn't support any long term testing of using gasoline rated oils in diesel engines, and further more the testing he did do with his "highly rated" oils at his preferred oci,(5k miles) failed his tests. (Section 70 was dedicated to used oil tests.) None of these tests were done on diesel engine, with diesel rated oils. Take it for what it's worth, but you need to read the entire blog, and the diesel specific sections and you'll realize there nothing wrong with the diesel rated oils we normally run, and the proof is our engines longevity. (Which he loves to correlate his testing to being proved by real life experiences.)

 

[Boosty]

I thought Rotella would be near the top. Anything better and cheaper? Wait, is longevity factored in? Oil out of bottle changes in an hour drive. My duramax especially noticable, with new oil the pressure gauge spikes really high

I've the feeling his high temp tests of the oils are meant to emulate/take the place of longevity testing in his test regimen. It's not like rotella doesn't work or the mobil 1 stuff is bad, I just wanted to try the much vaunted/highly touted SPECTACULAR cheap car oil in my tdi. I'm not too concerned as the oil will be replaced around the 5 to 7k mile mark anyway, even conventional oil lasts that long.

 

[PakProtector]

Going to do rear brakes, and an oil change on the '04 dd car. Those confounded rear rotors rusty, and now making noise. Pads fine so far...pads and rotor replacement. Brakes first, then oil change after the warm-up run to do the first bit of brake break-in.

Fun times...and for the oil folk, there is 15W-40 Rotella T6 synthetic out there.

Douglas

 

[jmodge]

I didn’t notice anything mentioned in that oil thread of any testing regarding the effect of extreme heat as a narrow film of oil passes through the oven that is a turbocharger. There’s a reason behind manufacturers specs for recommended oil in a turbocharged diesel engine

 

[csstevej]

Well I finally got my replacement DSG for the 06 NB that I got a few months ago, pulled the DSG filter to check for any metal particles and none noted, the trans is supposed to only have
48,xxx miles on it, I’ll do a full filter and oil change after install.
Installed the new pilot bearing in the rear of the crank shaft and installed a new luk DMF flywheel with new bolts torqued and then the additional 90 degrees.
Removed the BEW EGR cooler, EGR valve and intake, I’ll be listing them soon for sale , gonna replace it with a PD150 intake and have already done the coolant bypass.
Made tools to do intake port on head cleaning with soda blasting……so far…..

 

[dieseldonato]

With the number of turbocharged gas engines, and them typically running higher egts, I'd like to think the more modern classes of oils wouldn't have an issue with handling that aspect of the equation.

 

[Zak99b5]

Got in the car to drive home yesterday, and the door ajar light was on in the dash After starting her up. No biggie, as my door occasignally doesn’t latch all the way shut if I don’t pull it hard enough. Open, close, light still on. Dome lights are off tho. Hmmm.

I reached across, and the passenger door wasn’t loose, but open and shut anyway. Light still on. Reach back and do the same with pax rear door, light still on. I want to beat the buses, so off I go, the red light mocking me.

About halfway home, I’m at a light that just changed to red. So I reach back behind me and open/close the driver rear door, knowing this has to be it. And yet the light glared at me. I drive the rest of the way home, planning to pull out the vag com amd order a lock module and doing that PITA job.

In the driveway finally home, I get out and open/close both driver side doors again. As I walked around the back to do the same with the passenger side, I decide to check the trunk lid by just lifting it and, voila, it opens right up.

I can’t remember the last time I was in the trunk, and I haven’t fueled up in weeks (flap opener right by trunk button). And the night before the alarm horn beeped when I locked the car, indicating trunk was fully closed the day before, and no door light on dash on drive in either. So I have no idea why the trunk wasn’t shut all the way. I do not lock my car at school, however. But I am glad I don’t need to dig into any doors this weekend.

 

[Boosty]

I didn’t notice anything mentioned in that oil thread of any testing regarding the effect of extreme heat as a narrow film of oil passes through the oven that is a turbocharger. There’s a reason behind manufacturers specs for recommended oil in a turbocharged diesel engine

" Quaker State® Full Synthetic motor oil is designed to protect today’s sophisticated engine such as modern turbocharged engines. "
Quaker State® Full Synthetic Motor Oil | Quaker State

 

[Mozambiquer]

Today I did some shopping to figure up everything the Mk4 in getting ready to sell will need.

 

[northern diesel]

Do you happen to know what vehicles came with 14" 5×10̷0̷ with 57.1 CB? I want 14s. Also what size tire do you use?

The Pontiac Fiero came with 5x100 57.1 14”s
They got some pretty sweet wheels - I’ve seen some remans too that I liked - but beyond my budget
Check these out ;
I could only find this link which is actually 13” !!
Holy **** - that’s small

Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

When i was looking a couple weeks back I coulda swore i found these in 14”
But they also got those classic Fiero 80s looking ones - hard to imagine what that would look like on a Jetta- and then then the snowflake looking ones.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

The Pontiac Fiero came with 5x100 57.1 14”s
They got some pretty sweet wheels - I’ve seen some remans too that I liked - but beyond my budget
Check these out ;
I could only find this link which is actually 13” !!
Holy **** - that’s small

Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

When i was looking a couple weeks back I coulda swore i found these in 14”
But they also got those classic Fiero 80s looking ones - hard to imagine what that would look like on a Jetta- and then then the snowflake looking ones.

Well I am not sure, I thought @[486] said they do fit, but then said they do not so I am not sure anymore.

 

[Mozambiquer]

The Pontiac Fiero came with 5x100 57.1 14”s
They got some pretty sweet wheels - I’ve seen some remans too that I liked - but beyond my budget
Check these out ;
I could only find this link which is actually 13” !!
Holy **** - that’s small

Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Wheel Rim Pontiac Fiero 13 1984 1985 10031138 Machined OEM Factory OE 1369 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

When i was looking a couple weeks back I coulda swore i found these in 14”
But they also got those classic Fiero 80s looking ones - hard to imagine what that would look like on a Jetta- and then then the snowflake looking ones.

One of my customers put a set of the snowflake looking fiero wheels on his golf. It looks pretty good!

 

[[486]]

can confirm
caravan wheels will not fit, front or rear

Oh, I thought you saying confirmed meant it does fit.

Well I am not sure, I thought @[486] said they do fit, but then said they do not so I am not sure anymore.

Sorry, I'll stop posting.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Sorry, I'll stop posting.

No I just thought 'can confirm' meant yes to IBW, and I have no idea what caravan wheels are. I mentioned I was confused and you never clarified after so I was still not sure. Not trying to be mean or anything, I was genuinely not sure. Sorry if it came a cross as rude.

 

[J_dude]

No I just thought 'can confirm' meant yes to IBW, and I have no idea what caravan wheels are. I mentioned I was confused and you never clarified after so I was still not sure. Not trying to be mean or anything, I was genuinely not sure. Sorry if it came a cross as rude.

As a fellow Canadian I approve this message.

 

[northern diesel]

I’m going to be trying to diagnose a possible limp mode - my daughter has been complaining about losing power on hills ever since I installed a 2.5” catless downpipe in her ALH golf.
I’m going to plug it in and run diagnostics - but with ALH stock everything , is opening up the downpipe generally not a good idea ?
Does she need a tune?
I’m asking for advice here. I will begin with test driving and checking all the connecting turbo lines , as well as the actuator.
But she said it started as soon as the install was done.
I guess I could always put the stock downpipe back in.

 

[P2B]

It's possible a plugged cat was masking turbo issues.

Start by checking DTCs and running the turbo control system test:

 

[dieseldonato]

I’m going to be trying to diagnose a possible limp mode - my daughter has been complaining about losing power on hills ever since I installed a 2.5” catless downpipe in her ALH golf.
I’m going to plug it in and run diagnostics - but with ALH stock everything , is opening up the downpipe generally not a good idea ?
Does she need a tune?
I’m asking for advice here. I will begin with test driving and checking all the connecting turbo lines , as well as the actuator.
But she said it started as soon as the install was done.
I guess I could always put the stock downpipe back in.

No, this will not cause any issues. When I bought my car it had a patch work of garbage exhaust on it, no cat, no muffler and a broken flex pipe. The car ran fine, zero power issues. I installed 2.5" exhaust, no cat, no muffler and still resulted in zero running issues. Something else is wrong with the car to trigger the limp mode.

 

[GP_RZ]

Picked up a mint rear hatch for my wagon.

 

[P2B]

Pick up a mint rear hatch for my wagon.

Where did you find that in rustario?? Find me one!

 

[PakProtector]

It's possible a plugged cat was masking turbo issues.

Start by checking DTCs and running the turbo control system test:

While that is a fine place to start, my first TDI had limp mode issues induced by overboost. The system had no issue moving the arm to either extreme, but under load/pressure it could not get the vanes open before boost went bonkers. The expensive experiement of a new turbo did indeed fix it right up. There was some more diagnostic work done to leave me slightly sure-er that it was indeed the turbo.

Douglas

 

[GP_RZ]

Where did you find that in rustario?? Find me one!

Found it on Kijji in Cambridge..for sure a rare find in salty Ontario.

 

[P2B]

Found it on Kijji in Cambridge..for sure a rare find in salty Ontario.

I need it more than you do

 

[P2B]

The system had no issue moving the arm to either extreme, but under load/pressure it could not get the vanes open before boost went bonkers.

Sticky vanes or weak actuator spring causes this. You can see it when running the test - lever should snap back to the no boost position when vacuum is released, even a slightly sluggish return can result in overboost.

 

[northern diesel]

Sticky vanes or weak actuator spring causes this. You can see it when running the test - lever should snap back to the no boost position when vacuum is released, even a slightly sluggish return can result in overboost.

Ok thanks - yeah that’s what I found today - sluggish actuator rod movement - not actually limp mode though- the kid has no idea how brutal it is to drive a car in limp mode- but turbo is not consistent -
19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239)
P3105 - 35-10 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101 - 35-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16785 - EGR System
P0401 - 35-10 - Insufficient Flow - Intermittent

These codes also suggested to me that it’s well time to remove the intake manifold, egr valve and allow some air in.
I might as well replace those vac lines while I’m in there too.

I installed my cheap Chinese “upgraded” IC today with a vented fender liner and 3 bar map.
It sorta fit- I had to make it fit.

 

[P2B]

Log the MAF. EGR flow is inferred based on MAF data, not measured.

 

[BrettLu]

Pulled the head to do a head gasket and instead found a cracked block and two cracked pistons. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/bad-alh.14669/ [URL="https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/bad-alh.14669/"][/URL]

 

[PakProtector]

What a revoltin' development Brett. My condolences to ya.

Douglas

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

There's more to this story...Care to share?

Pulled the head to do a head gasket and instead found a cracked block and two cracked pistons. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/bad-alh.14669/ [URL="https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/bad-alh.14669/"][/URL]