What did you do to your MKIV today?

[P2B]

sounds a lot like a tcl tv. had to do the same on my tcl

Samsung

 

[jmodge]

I’m not referring to the skid plate I’m referring to the chassis before I install the skid. My apologies, I was not very clear.

Even I understood that one, Canadian wildfires are depriving them of oxygen

 

[J_dude]

I’m not referring to the skid plate I’m referring to the chassis before I install the skid. My apologies, I was not very clear.

Ohhh. Ok I understand now

 

[dieseldonato]

Well my sense of this for my car is that she’s been on TDT starting with the first oil change and run with TDT for about 250k miles. So she’s just used to it. My mechanic used something other than TDT or T6, and she’s doing pretty good with it. Edit: he used Rowe 5w30.

Some vehicles are funny like that. Haven't ever figured out why. I bought my tdi off a guy I work with. A few months after I bought it, he brought in some spare parts he had for it, and about half a quart of oil. It was regular 5w30 oil for a gas car. (Can't remember the brand) thanked him, and asked why he chose that oil? He said that was what his mechanic used when he changed the oil so he would buy a quart to top off in between oil changes. Said it was always a quart low at 3k miles. I didn't make a big deal out of it. He's not a diesel guy, and just bought the car for his kid for collage. Switched it over to rotella and haven't been more then a quart low in 10k oci. Funny how things like that work.

I'm bad and run whatever's cheapest - T6 or 5W40 from Carquest. It's marketed as Fram, but I'm told it's made by someone else (I'd never use Fram filters). I've even been known to mix and match in a pinch. The tractors and truck get 15W40 though, since that's what they call for. and I think my generator calls for 10W30 or something.

I try not to mix and match too much, but in a pinch I'll dump about whatever brand in the sump. I stuck with rotella since the shop got it in bulk and I couldn't beet the price for a "synthetic" oil. Did loads of oil testing back then and the results were always very good vs the dino oil we had on hand. Things have changed (cost stupid money now), but it's still my preferred oil for the diesels.

 

[Zak99b5]

Drove for the first time with the Vredestein HiTracs. Huge improvement over the shot Wally World Douglases. The ride was much smoother and instantly noticeable. Looking forward to pressing them a little and seeing how they respond, as well as how long they last.

 

[joe00golf]

Took a look at the front end today. I'm not seeing anything loose so I'm not sure why I'm getting a wicked shake while braking above 65 mph. I guess I must have gotten a warped rotor from rockauto.

 

[csstevej]

Also check your lower control arm aft rubber bearings , if they’re original they may be shot.
If they are the original ones they have a tendency to break out where the inner attaches to the outer piece .
The newer style are the solid TT bearings.

 

[joe00golf]

I looked underneath again and had a loose caliper bolt. I tightened it down and it stripped out. I got it tight as I could, drove out to the bar for darts league tonight. The first couple brakes from 80 mph no shake at all but after that it came back. So I guess I'll either be tapping in a new bolt or replacing the steering knuckle. I imagine that means getting an alignment so might just try and helicoil it or something

 

[P2B]

I looked underneath again and had a loose caliper bolt. I tightened it down and it stripped out. I got it tight as I could, drove out to the bar for darts league tonight. The first couple brakes from 80 mph no shake at all but after that it came back. So I guess I'll either be tapping in a new bolt or replacing the steering knuckle. I imagine that means getting an alignment so might just try and helicoil it or something

Common problem with an easy fix.

Oversized Brake Caliper Guide Pin (A4)(A5)(Mk6)

If the threads for the caliper guide pin on the front steering knuckles of your TDI have stripped these oversized guide pins are the easy solution. These guide pins are both slightly oversize...

www.idparts.com

 

[northern diesel]

Even I understood that one, Canadian wildfires are depriving them of oxygen

Honestly this fire season’s got me still in a logging camp - still searching for and ordering VW parts online.
To that newcomer, @bowwapowwa , who said he wanted to spend no more than $1200 fixing up his new BEW golf - good luck ! And also welcome!
I remember thinking that too. I got my first tdi for $2,000 and thought I just wanted to fix a couple things- now I have to say it’s turned into a passion. I regret nothing - although I wish I had more time to work on my car. Haha - but one has to make money to spend it.
I track packages and parts keep arriving and yet I barely get the time to install them. I have upgraded control arms in boxes, suspension, and three updated tunes from @burpod - which again @bowwapowwa - do yourself a solid and get in line for the GOAT of all tuners.
This newest version was so fun I got pulled over by the piggies (who thankfully did not impound my car), while racing home to install the new downpipe in my kiddos ALH golf yesterday.
oh yeah.. so….
I ordered a 2.5” resonated turbo back exhaust system for my BEW wagon and a non resonated downpipe for her ALH golf. They are both from Circuit Werks. Nice looking welds - decent price - although shipping was more expensive than the individual pieces.
Only thing that was strange was the fit-
I am self taught since joining this forum - but they fit the hangers perfectly and then sort of left a strange gap between the cat back (although there is no cat) and the end of the downpipe.
https://flic.kr/p/2qoksAm Also came with this piece with their emblem that I’m holding up which is way longer than the gap
https://flic.kr/p/2qosi5m So I cut it up and slid it all together - and it sounds awesome !
When I called circuit Werks to ask if that sleeve was meant to be cut to length they told me nothing was meant to be cut…. But they were precise in my order asking me which car it was for etc…
Next up though I will be installing the 3bar map and the burpod tune for that- and also sorting out my turbo intake piping. Im really not happy with the stock plastic one flapping around unsecured now that I got the PD150 intake manifold and the 1856v turbo. I think the mix of the bigger turbo (further reach for that pipe) and the different securing locations on the PD 150
make it necessary to upgrade this.
At least that’s what I tell myself (and my wife)
I haven’t posted in a while - the 4x4 Toyota van swap is accumulating parts and getting neglected … but hopefully this winter will see some progress.

I’ve learned so much here thanks to those who share and even directly text me answers to my questions when I don’t feel like posting about them.
Sorry this was so long!

 

[bowwapowwa]

Honestly this fire season’s got me still in a logging camp - still searching for and ordering VW parts online.
To that newcomer, @bowwapowwa , who said he wanted to spend no more than $1200 fixing up his new BEW golf - good luck ! And also welcome!
I remember thinking that too. I got my first tdi for $2,000 and thought I just wanted to fix a couple things- now I have to say it’s turned into a passion. I regret nothing - although I wish I had more time to work on my car. Haha - but one has to make money to spend it.
I track packages and parts keep arriving and yet I barely get the time to install them. I have upgraded control arms in boxes, suspension, and three updated tunes from @burpod - which again @bowwapowwa - do yourself a solid and get in line for the GOAT of all tuners.
This newest version was so fun I got pulled over by the piggies (who thankfully did not impound my car), while racing home to install the new downpipe in my kiddos ALH golf yesterday.
oh yeah.. so….
I ordered a 2.5” resonated turbo back exhaust system for my BEW wagon and a non resonated downpipe for her ALH golf. They are both from Circuit Werks. Nice looking welds - decent price - although shipping was more expensive than the individual pieces.
Only thing that was strange was the fit-
I am self taught since joining this forum - but they fit the hangers perfectly and then sort of left a strange gap between the cat back (although there is no cat) and the end of the downpipe.
https://flic.kr/p/2qoksAm Also came with this piece with their emblem that I’m holding up which is way longer than the gap
https://flic.kr/p/2qosi5m So I cut it up and slid it all together - and it sounds awesome !
When I called circuit Werks to ask if that sleeve was meant to be cut to length they told me nothing was meant to be cut…. But they were precise in my order asking me which car it was for etc…
Next up though I will be installing the 3bar map and the burpod tune for that- and also sorting out my turbo intake piping. Im really not happy with the stock plastic one flapping around unsecured now that I got the PD150 intake manifold and the 1856v turbo. I think the mix of the bigger turbo (further reach for that pipe) and the different securing locations on the PD 150
make it necessary to upgrade this.
At least that’s what I tell myself (and my wife)
I haven’t posted in a while - the 4x4 Toyota van swap is accumulating parts and getting neglected … but hopefully this winter will see some progress.

I’ve learned so much here thanks to those who share and even directly text me answers to my questions when I don’t feel like posting about them.
Sorry this was so long!

Yeah I know 1200 is a bit of a pipe dream, (that's mainly the price I put on what I think will get it from the PO daily beater to a clean, minimal issue daily). I do plan to get in line for a burpod tune once I get this intake piping replaced. Too large of a boost leak causing issues. This is where that 1200 price tag wouldn't work cause I want to change the intake since it's already egr deleted. Can get a new manifold, swap over to normal piping and constant torque hose clamps instead of those spring tension clips. Maybe replace the intercooler too just to get rid of the spring clips.

Today, I fixed the license plate lights and a few other broken fender light covers. Got a new driver window switch panel in so I can go up/down on the driver side without it being the auto up/down. New hood release handle for the interior also came in today so that will get fixed tomorrow. Should have the center arm rest and new ash tray/12v outlet panel coming in over the next week. Glove box door coming in too. Need to find a bumper i like too. - might put an r32 bumper on it if I find one under $150, otherwise it's whatever golf bumper are in the local pick ya parts
Need to order up brake pads/rotors/ and the PO completely destroyed the front caliper pins so those will need to be replaced and either will need some timecerts or new steering knuckle. Looks like they tried to already fix their mistake and made it a lot worse. Have a few wheel speed sensors for the abs light on, but we'll see if it's the tone rings that are just rusted apart once I get those apart.

Also pretty sure the rear axle/lower control arm bushings are shot and making a clunk in the rear. P.O. did all the front suspension, but I'm gonna have to go through it all and check their work based on the quality of the rest of his repairs.

To the people who all disagree with T6. It's okay, I'll pay for my mistakes if it causes issues. Oil choice always gets every car forum riled up. YMMV but like others, it's never given me issues, always has great returns on analysis. Given the state and history of the car...I know the previous owner was using cheap oil so if there is damage it's already been done over the last 226k ish miles and the cam is gonna probably need replacement due to mileage soon anyways. No history of replacement. Timing belt done 2 years ago, but again no paper work or proof of what parts were used, so that will probably be done sometime within the next year to be safe.

 

[PakProtector]

Have fun with the rear axle bushings. They are not too bad to remove; a solid air hammer and a bushing splitter chisel make short work. For the .401 hammers, check out the CP 715. If you go with a .498 gun, go biiiiig( a 7x rivet gun ). They have much better trigger control of the smack.

Cupra R bushings from IDP to replace...

Douglas

 

[bowwapowwa]

Have fun with the rear axle bushings. They are not too bad to remove; a solid air hammer and a bushing splitter chisel make short work. For the .401 hammers, check out the CP 715. If you go with a .498 gun, go biiiiig( a 7x rivet gun ). They have much better trigger control of the smack.

Cupra R bushings from IDP to replace...

Douglas

Yeah I was happy they did all the front suspension, I've done it before on a vr6 GTI and that wasn't a fun day. Now I work at a diesel (semi truck) shop so I actually have the tools for the job. Have a long barrel mac air hammer, and if that doesn't have the power, we have a tiger tool leaf spring bushing puller that will actually pull out and press in new bushings. I'll probably have to make an adapter for the right bushing size, but if that only takes a half hour to save 2 hours and my knuckles...

It's a bit lower on my priority list though. First is brakes/boost issues. If I just don't drive the car, I'll stop finding problems.

 

[jmodge]

Honestly this fire season’s got me still in a logging camp - still searching for and ordering VW parts online.
To that newcomer, @bowwapowwa , who said he wanted to spend no more than $1200 fixing up his new BEW golf - good luck ! And also welcome!
I remember thinking that too. I got my first tdi for $2,000 and thought I just wanted to fix a couple things- now I have to say it’s turned into a passion. I regret nothing - although I wish I had more time to work on my car. Haha - but one has to make money to spend it.
I track packages and parts keep arriving and yet I barely get the time to install them. I have upgraded control arms in boxes, suspension, and three updated tunes from @burpod - which again @bowwapowwa - do yourself a solid and get in line for the GOAT of all tuners.
This newest version was so fun I got pulled over by the piggies (who thankfully did not impound my car), while racing home to install the new downpipe in my kiddos ALH golf yesterday.
oh yeah.. so….
I ordered a 2.5” resonated turbo back exhaust system for my BEW wagon and a non resonated downpipe for her ALH golf. They are both from Circuit Werks. Nice looking welds - decent price - although shipping was more expensive than the individual pieces.
Only thing that was strange was the fit-
I am self taught since joining this forum - but they fit the hangers perfectly and then sort of left a strange gap between the cat back (although there is no cat) and the end of the downpipe.
https://flic.kr/p/2qoksAm Also came with this piece with their emblem that I’m holding up which is way longer than the gap
https://flic.kr/p/2qosi5m So I cut it up and slid it all together - and it sounds awesome !
When I called circuit Werks to ask if that sleeve was meant to be cut to length they told me nothing was meant to be cut…. But they were precise in my order asking me which car it was for etc…
Next up though I will be installing the 3bar map and the burpod tune for that- and also sorting out my turbo intake piping. Im really not happy with the stock plastic one flapping around unsecured now that I got the PD150 intake manifold and the 1856v turbo. I think the mix of the bigger turbo (further reach for that pipe) and the different securing locations on the PD 150
make it necessary to upgrade this.
At least that’s what I tell myself (and my wife)
I haven’t posted in a while - the 4x4 Toyota van swap is accumulating parts and getting neglected … but hopefully this winter will see some progress.

I’ve learned so much here thanks to those who share and even directly text me answers to my questions when I don’t feel like posting about them.
Sorry this was so long!

Thanks for the review on the exhaust, I think Donna's is leaking. I don't remember who I bought mine from, but it's still working.

Stay safe up there in the woods and don't eat any mushrooms you find that you're not familiar with.

 

[joe00golf]

Common problem with an easy fix.

Oversized Brake Caliper Guide Pin (A4)(A5)(Mk6)

If the threads for the caliper guide pin on the front steering knuckles of your TDI have stripped these oversized guide pins are the easy solution. These guide pins are both slightly oversize...

www.idparts.com

Thanks!

 

[northern diesel]

Can get a new manifold, swap over to normal piping and constant torque hose clamps instead of those spring tension clips. Maybe replace the intercooler too just to get rid of the spring clips.

Yeah- my new 1856v turbo came with no spring clamp system - more like the ALH STYLE so for a bit I was futzing around with my plastic pancake pipe and BEW clip connector IC and their respective hoses.
but I ended up grabbing and cleaning out an ALH IC from a wrecking yard and grabbed the aluminum pancake pipe from a 1.8T (I think that’s the one) so I ended up with Tbolt hose clamps all around on new silicone piping and a cleaned out IC - that fixed the boost issues for me.

 

[dieseldonato]

Yeah- my new 1856v turbo came with no spring clamp system - more like the ALH STYLE so for a bit I was futzing around with my plastic pancake pipe and BEW clip connector IC and their respective hoses.
but I ended up grabbing and cleaning out an ALH IC from a wrecking yard and grabbed the aluminum pancake pipe from a 1.8T (I think that’s the one) so I ended up with Tbolt hose clamps all around on new silicone piping and a cleaned out IC - that fixed the boost issues for me.

The t-bolt clamp upgrade solved most of my boost leak issues. Those factory clamps are tragic to say the least.

 

[dieseldonato]

Soon as it shows up, I'll be replacing what's left of my passenger side mirror with a new one. The other day I was following a tour buss home. he got in the left turn lane, at an intersection. (Yes, his turn signal was on.) as I was going past he hooked right, I swerved to avoid getting hit and caught the mirror on one of those orange road barrels. Basically wiped the mirror off the side of the jetta. Pretty tucked off about it, but so it goes I guess. Grabbed a "new" mirror off evilbay, tracking shows it's out for delivery. Just glad the idiot driving the buss didn't turn back over faster then he did. Should have known he didn't know where he was going, guy slowed down at nearly every intersection we came to.

 

[Sting]

To the people who all disagree with T6. It's okay, I'll pay for my mistakes if it causes issues. Oil choice always gets every car forum riled up. YMMV but like others, it's never given me issues, always has great returns on analysis. Given the state and history of the car...I know the previous owner was using cheap oil so if there is damage it's already been done over the last 226k ish miles and the cam is gonna probably need replacement due to mileage soon anyways. No history of replacement. Timing belt done 2 years ago, but again no paper work or proof of what parts were used, so that will probably be done sometime within the next year to be safe.

My ALH has been on steady diet of T6 for basically ever. It has over 713K km on it now. It's my goto oil. Still running strong. I'm running it on a 10K km change interval as I'm doing more local driving in Victoria, BC than I used to in Ontario. On average I'm putting in an extra liter over the change, a little more if I take it on some Italian tuneups to keep things clean.

 

[bowwapowwa]

Yeah- my new 1856v turbo came with no spring clamp system - more like the ALH STYLE so for a bit I was futzing around with my plastic pancake pipe and BEW clip connector IC and their respective hoses.
but I ended up grabbing and cleaning out an ALH IC from a wrecking yard and grabbed the aluminum pancake pipe from a 1.8T (I think that’s the one) so I ended up with Tbolt hose clamps all around on new silicone piping and a cleaned out IC - that fixed the boost issues for me.

I though about going that route, and I need to run to a yard so I could snag most of what I'd need a few runs if I'm lucky. Or I'll just buy a kit. Piecing things together gets tiring after a while, but convenience is costly.

 

[TDI-diehard]

drove myself nutz trying to figure out *** is wrong with my door locks. no luck.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Sold the TT - https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...003-audi-tt-tdi-quattro-roadster-sold.533638/

Bittersweet...

 

[jmodge]

Sold the TT - https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...003-audi-tt-tdi-quattro-roadster-sold.533638/

Bittersweet...

Good, now I can quit thinking about it. That was one sweet clean ride

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Wife pulled in the driveway last night and the jetta split a coolant hose. Couldn't have timed itself more perfectly. Ive never had this happen in a mk4, but these car's are getting older. The weird thing is that it broke from the inside out.

 

[hey_allen]

I had the coolant hose between the head and the vent line to the reservoir do just that, earlier this year.

The rubber in the hoses is definitely getting a bit tired and breaking down.

 

[Judson]

Oil and filter change. Almost to 280k since 2001, or 12k/year. Guess I just don’t drive that much.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Smogged the Beetle. Passed. Was looking forward to getting a new cyl head for it in Nov but the prices shot up - guessing in time for upcoming black friday deals

Maybe I'll spend my efforts looking for a ALH VE wagon.

 

[[486]]

Was looking forward to getting a new cyl head for it in Nov but the prices shot up - guessing in time for upcoming black friday deals

why does it need a new cylinder head if it is running?

 

[csstevej]

Did some work on my newly acquired 06 NB.
Removed egr cooler, piping, and egr valve.
Made cooler bypass kit .
Gonna pull intake as it’s carbon up and swap it out with a PD 150 from dark side and keep the ASV valve.
Probably gonna sell the bew intake , cooler , pipes and EGR valve as it was working and only has 140,xxx miles on it and is in good shape.
Ohh and still looking for a replacement DSG transmission for it. ( hole punched into it from a failed DMF )

 

[PakProtector]

I installed a Panzer plate on my '02 Jetta manual swap car. 7-7/8" x 1.25" dia AL round stock doing duty for the usual front mounts. Screwed into RivNuts only using the front most set of holes in the frame. That pup also got a new dogbone lower mount. The drivetrain would wind up and relax in a most improper fashion due to wear on the soft bits. The new one cured it completely. And it is now protected mostly from 'stuff in the road' now.

Douglas