What did you do to your MKIV today?

[norbert77]

Continuing the in tank fuel pump conversion. pump is in, wiring is pulled to back. Went to wire pump, I had ordered the plug from Idparts but the stupid kit didn't include the 2 new prongs needed. So I gave up. Then I decided to at least finish the relay part, stole power from the rear power outlet, and then I realised the plug off the power outlet had 2 similar size prongs, I will see if I can make it work.

Like really, a small fortune for a pump upgrade and a plug, vendor should have included 2 prongs, or at least put up a note saying hey buy these 2 metal pieces you will need with an upgrade

 

[Mozambiquer]

Yesterday I was driving the manual swapped bew that I am getting ready to sell for a family member, and one of the shifter cables broke. Well, I guess I have one more thing to fix before it's ready to sell.
I am WAY too tempted to keep it, but I've got a nice alh Jetta I'm building an engine for , and plan to use it for my daily later on.
Now to figure out which cables this one has, and I know I need to replace the rest of the shifter bushings too, as they were loose. That contributed to the failure, I know

 

[pkhoury]

The Helicoil type works fine once, but on something you know you will have to take loose again some day, they don't. Because they often won't stay put and back out and make a bigger mess... because they can jam in between the bracket and mount, and effectively stick the two together with the bolt. I've had several of those that I had to break out the Sawzall to get apart. Not fun... and not cheap.

Just mentioning the Helicoil to Brian Hague and my other bestie Christian, was pretty much met with a bunch of "f*ck that" and "use a timesert" comments. I've heard horror stories from both, and both were professional mechanics like yourself, so I figured they know what they're talking about, so it's best to use their advice.

 

[pkhoury]

Yesterday I was driving the manual swapped bew that I am getting ready to sell for a family member, and one of the shifter cables broke. Well, I guess I have one more thing to fix before it's ready to sell.
I am WAY too tempted to keep it, but I've got a nice alh Jetta I'm building an engine for , and plan to use it for my daily later on.
Now to figure out which cables this one has, and I know I need to replace the rest of the shifter bushings too, as they were loose. That contributed to the failure, I know

Too bad I'd need a weird box size, because I have extra shifter assemblies I could sell you. Bought a few from the junkyard in years past to use as spares, of which I've actually used two spares for problems like the U shaped plastic for the reverse gear disintegrating.

 

[pkhoury]

Continuing the in tank fuel pump conversion. pump is in, wiring is pulled to back. Went to wire pump, I had ordered the plug from Idparts but the stupid kit didn't include the 2 new prongs needed. So I gave up. Then I decided to at least finish the relay part, stole power from the rear power outlet, and then I realised the plug off the power outlet had 2 similar size prongs, I will see if I can make it work.

Like really, a small fortune for a pump upgrade and a plug, vendor should have included 2 prongs, or at least put up a note saying hey buy these 2 metal pieces you will need with an upgrade

Just make sure you add in a fuse for the pump. I don't remember the value, but I think 15 amps is what comes to mind. I don't remember if I added a fuse for the 53 relay, but definitely did for the pump itself.

 

[P2B]

Just make sure you add in a fuse for the pump. I don't remember the value, but I think 15 amps is what comes to mind. I don't remember if I added a fuse for the 53 relay, but definitely did for the pump itself.

Fuse should be before the relay so as to protect it and the pump.

 

[pkhoury]

Fuse should be before the relay so as to protect it and the pump.

When I wired up mine, I had a separate electrical feed for the pump and fused it. I don't remember if I fused the relay, but I know I'm not using the same electrical feed for both.

 

[norbert77]

Just make sure you add in a fuse for the pump. I don't remember the value, but I think 15 amps is what comes to mind. I don't remember if I added a fuse for the 53 relay, but definitely did for the pump itself.

The power outlet comes with its own fuse in the fuse box

 

[dieseldonato]

Timeserts are pretty decent as far as thread repairs. Cost vs longevity they strike a nice balance. The machine shop I used to work for used them occasionally. They preferred full torque inserts from lock-n-stitch. Something about how the threads were cut was superior to timeserts and the ability to order small amounts of custom inserts/plugs etc. The tooling is very expensive, so I don't use them at home. On the off chance a timesert won't work for me, I run down to the machine shop and "rent" the tooling and get the inserts off them.

Full-Torque Products On Lock-N-Stitch

Browse Full-Torque Products in the Lock-N-Stitch catalog including Standard Thread Repair Insert Types,Shouldered Type Inserts,Special Application Inserts,Solid & Pre-drilled Plugs,Tapered Pipe Thread & O-Ring Boss Inserts,Spark Plug Hole Thread Inse

castingrepair.locknstitch.com

 

[Zak99b5]

Pulled the battery to replace the city light that had burned out in my car. Then I tried to replace the injector return lines (more for fun) with clear PVC fuel line, but the wall was too thin to allow me to slide it over the nipples.

Also, I had the “opportunity” to change the spark plugs & wires in my daughter's 05 Golf. This time I removed the upper intake mani, and it made the job so much easier. Just 7 bolts and a few hoses. I didn’t have a new gasket for it on hand, so I just reused the old one. Seems to be fine. But damn, the wires and plugs came to $220. Glad I don’t have any on mine.

 

[oilhammer]

No, just have a significantly more expensive fuel injection system to deal with, LOL.

(never seen anyone pull the upper intake on a 2.slo for spark plugs, I got a chuckle out of that... I suppose it *would* be easier, but it isn't exactly hard in the first place).

 

[pkhoury]

Finally replaced faulty wiring in both headlights on DSOL. For those who are confused, DSEL and DSOL are my two golfs and referenced in my signature (they are also the license plates on each car, with a heart in front for "love diesel").

Anyways, did some modifications so my leveling motors had power (great for while towing and the ass end of the car is lower, making the front slightly higher) and got everything tested.

That being said - where do y'all set your headlight levels to? I put mine a little high (I never adjusted them since I replaced some assemblies that were damaged in comp collisions), so I could see better. I live fairly rural, so a lot of my driving is on country roads with not much traffic. If anything, I can use the levelers to aim the lights down a little, but before, I couldn't see $hit that far ahead of me, even with high beams (and all these new cars with LED headlights aimed from the factory are way brighter than my car with high beams on, anyways).

 

[spifflifkin]

For those who are confused, DSEL and DSOL are my two golfs and referenced in my signature (they are also the license plates on each car, with a heart in front for "love diesel")

I was wondering that that meant. Now it's obvious that you pointed out they are in your signature.

 

[Zak99b5]

No, just have a significantly more expensive fuel injection system to deal with, LOL.

(never seen anyone pull the upper intake on a 2.slo for spark plugs, I got a chuckle out of that... I suppose it *would* be easier, but it isn't exactly hard in the first place).

It's more for the wires, actually. When she bought the car initially, I changed out just the plugs, manifold in place. Wasn't too bad. A bit fiddly though with the wires on cyl 2 and 3. I remembered that when I got the wire set, and removing made installing them (especially putting them in the holders) easy. It was worth it.

 

[[486]]

That being said - where do y'all set your headlight levels to? I put mine a little high (I never adjusted them since I replaced some assemblies that were damaged in comp collisions), so I could see better. I live fairly rural, so a lot of my driving is on country roads with not much traffic. If anything, I can use the levelers to aim the lights down a little, but before, I couldn't see $hit that far ahead of me, even with high beams (and all these new cars with LED headlights aimed from the factory are way brighter than my car with high beams on, anyways).

I put mine in the dirt, mostly because I hate poorly adjusted ones something fierce

but I should get some billion watt 10000k led HID halogen laser eye burners to commit war crimes with instead

 

[pkhoury]

I was wondering that that meant. Now it's obvious that you pointed out they are in your signature.

I think others were as well, which is why I referenced them in my signature as well. It's sad my JSW is still listed in my sig; it's been at the body shop for a year and a half, but I've grown pretty accustomed to just using the pair of Golfs and not paying insurance on the JSW.

 

[pkhoury]

I put mine in the dirt, mostly because I hate poorly adjusted ones something fierce

but I should get some billion watt 10000k led HID halogen laser eye burners to commit war crimes with instead

A lot of trucks out here use those annoying ultra bright light bars. Some of them, using those as their PRIMARY lights instead of the factory headlights. The worst is when you see someone with craptastic Chineseium LEDs that are not only insanely bright, but insanely blue.

 

[oilhammer]

These newer lights are not only annoying and dangerous, but they're jaw-dropping expensive to replace. A stripper Jetta's assembly was over a grand last time I checked.

 

[norbert77]

My old beetle lights were so faded I could barely see so I went on RockAuto and bought a pretty set of TYC or something close to it. Don't low beam aims one way and the high beams another way so I sort of had to split the difference. I stripped one head light adjuster right away lucky got sent back and warranty.

Get a tape measure and when a nice level laneway, put the tape in front of the light see very aims and then walk out 30 pieces and see where it aims. As long as it aims down you're probably fine until you put stuff in the trunk

 

[SilverGhost]

Another cheap trick - park on flat, level ground in front of a wall or other flat surface. With the low beams on, slowly back up - if the bright spot rises the lamps are aimed high, if the bright spot falls they are aimed low, if it stays the same the bright spot is level straight ahead.

Free, no tools, double check.

Jason

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Good writeup on headlight aiming: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

Moving on, brought my '02 home from the mechanic last night - back in August, started running really rough. Thought bad fuel (2 days after filling up), but wasn't - turned out one of the lifters came apart and wiped out the cam/head.

So, since I wasn't ready to part with the car: all-new head/cam, turbo (seals starting to go), intake and EGR valve (very coked up, probably at least in part from the over-fueling injectors I had a few years back, need to research EGR disables that won't mess up my NJ inspection), had the coolant pipe I got from OilHammer swapped in, timing belt (20K shy, but head was off and apparently the tensioner was ready to fail, so dodged bent rods there). Oh, and my starter finally croaked, so new one of those.

Bottom end was fine - even with the wrecked head, no piston-valve contact, and compression was even across all cylinders. Even still have visible cross-hatching from the factory hone in all 4 cylinders, according to the mechanic.

Doozy of a bill, but drives so good after all that I can't complain. Quieter and smoother than it's been in a while, and boy did clearing the intake wake it up - feels even stronger now, and not a hint of smoke (now I think I finally understand what upgrading to .205s was supposed to do for the car). Timing's set to 74, which is a little lower than he usually goes, but it ran too good at that setting not to leave alone.

Now I just have to keep my foot out of it for a tank or two so I can see how the MPG is now (hoping for better now that it's smoking less and breathing in much better).

Small Album with a couple pics: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/cylinder-head-work-sept-2024.14630/
(the closeup of the intake and lifter bore are courtesy of my mechanic, the "after" beauty shots I got this morning).

 

[Sting]

Speaking of headlights, what can you do if it seems like your adjusters aren't working? If not, I'm guessing replacement is in order?

I tried to adjust mine, but it seemed to do nothing.

 

[jmodge]

Good writeup on headlight aiming: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

Moving on, brought my '02 home from the mechanic last night - back in August, started running really rough. Thought bad fuel (2 days after filling up), but wasn't - turned out one of the lifters came apart and wiped out the cam/head.

So, since I wasn't ready to part with the car: all-new head/cam, turbo (seals starting to go), intake and EGR valve (very coked up, probably at least in part from the over-fueling injectors I had a few years back, need to research EGR disables that won't mess up my NJ inspection), had the coolant pipe I got from OilHammer swapped in, timing belt (20K shy, but head was off and apparently the tensioner was ready to fail, so dodged bent rods there). Oh, and my starter finally croaked, so new one of those.

Bottom end was fine - even with the wrecked head, no piston-valve contact, and compression was even across all cylinders. Even still have visible cross-hatching from the factory hone in all 4 cylinders, according to the mechanic.

Doozy of a bill, but drives so good after all that I can't complain. Quieter and smoother than it's been in a while, and boy did clearing the intake wake it up - feels even stronger now, and not a hint of smoke (now I think I finally understand what upgrading to .205s was supposed to do for the car). Timing's set to 74, which is a little lower than he usually goes, but it ran too good at that setting not to leave alone.

Now I just have to keep my foot out of it for a tank or two so I can see how the MPG is now (hoping for better now that it's smoking less and breathing in much better).

Small Album with a couple pics: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?media/albums/cylinder-head-work-sept-2024.14630/
(the closeup of the intake and lifter bore are courtesy of my mechanic, the "after" beauty shots I got this morning).

How many miles do you have on that now?

 

[Mozambiquer]

So today I found that my cable didn't break, it was just the bushing on the inside that popped apart. The bushings are all just shot, so I am ordering a whole set of bushings from diesel geek and will be rebuilding the whole system. It definitely needs it. I'll have to take some pictures, since it's pretty nasty LOL

 

[GlowBugTDI]

So, since I wasn't ready to part with the car: all-new head/cam, turbo (seals starting to go), intake and EGR valve (very coked up, probably at least in part from the over-fueling injectors I had a few years back, need to research EGR disables that won't mess up my NJ inspection).

Golfing tee pressed into the egr valve hose. Takes 20 seconds to re-attach for inspection and 20 more to put the tee back in after. The tee only needs to be pressed in a little bit. Doesn't go anywhere. If your worried about the egr valve end getting gunk in it get vacuum caps from the auto parts store.
Another option, you can also remove the tube entirly and vacuum cap both nipples.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Drove it again for the first time since ~May. Started right up, runs good, brakes are a bit "weak" due to rust on the rotors, getting better with use.
Figured if I'm going to be driving it this winter, I should make sure it's good to go before the weather gets crappy. It's everything I remember (good and bad)

 

[P2B]

Golfing tee pressed into the egr valve hose. Takes 20 seconds to re-attach for inspection and 20 more to put the tee back in after. The tee only needs to be pressed in a little bit. Doesn't go anywhere. If your worried about the egr valve end getting gunk in it get vacuum caps from the auto parts store.
Another option, you can also remove the tube entirly and vacuum cap both nipples.

Assuming he doesn't fail inspection due to MIL on for EGR insufficient flow.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Assuming he doesn't fail inspection due to MIL on for EGR insufficient flow.

That was why he would put it back together for inspection time.

 

[P2B]

That was why he would put it back together for inspection time.

Assuming he has a way to clear codes and check readiness, and doesn't mind having the MIL on constantly.

 

[pkhoury]

Another cheap trick - park on flat, level ground in front of a wall or other flat surface. With the low beams on, slowly back up - if the bright spot rises the lamps are aimed high, if the bright spot falls they are aimed low, if it stays the same the bright spot is level straight ahead.

Free, no tools, double check.

Jason

That's actually what I did, sans the backing up part. Used the grout between stones outside my former house as a guide. I think they're upwards a little more than city driving, but nobody's flashed their high beams at me yet, and now I can see the deer and racoons better up in the distance.