What did you do to your MKIV today?

[joe00golf]

Honestly just got lucky that glow plug tips are the same size as the bullet connectors. But a $3 pack of connectors was a lot better than two new wires for $25 each.

 

[Zak99b5]

Took out the driver's door panel to try to clean up contacts since the pax window momentary switches weren't barely working (auto still did, and pax door control works fine).

Sprayed some cleaner on it but decided to disassemble, and I was a little surprised to see it's just like a TV remote.

Now the down momentary works like it should, but the up still is stubborn.

 

[csstevej]

Yeah at the third TB change the aluminum threads pull out , at that time I just install all new time setts and be done with it in all the holes.

 

[jmodge]

What did I do to my mk4 today? Well, after successfully finishing a timing belt, the threads on the forward most hole on my engine bracket f*cknig stripped on me. I thought of getting a replacement from the junkyard, as I'm planning to go tomorrow anyways, and then realized I need to redo timing again. No thanks, since there's no guarantee that the crappy aluminum threads will hold up. So I ended up ordering a M12x1.5 timesert kit and a socket tap socket set to finish the job. I'm pretty irritated, given the fact that this isn't the only stripped thread; one of the tensioner bolt holes is stripped (though I've been able to use two bolts just fine for the time being).

I tapped one of those out with, 1/2 13nc iirc. Held up just fine. Used the torque spec for that thread. I suspect your timesert will be just fine.

 

[pkhoury]

I tapped one of those out with, 1/2 13nc iirc. Held up just fine. Used the torque spec for that thread. I suspect your timesert will be just fine.

Yeah at the third TB change the aluminum threads pull out , at that time I just install all new time setts and be done with it in all the holes.

I'm thinking I'm just going to timesert both holes, including the one that's good, just so I don't have to F with this in the future. And yes, this is probably the third TB change. I did the last onee 90K miles ago after I got the car, so I'm doing it a little early. It's still crazy how easy those threads stripped, as I didn't even get remotely close to tightening the bolt all the way down.

 

[hey_allen]

I haven't needed to install thread inserts in the block yet, but did have to do the other end of the engine mount, both on my car and a friend's 2.slow.

The Timesert kit hurts to initially buy, but it does the job well in this application.

 

[oilhammer]

I have those on the ready with inserts already installed. I'm old enough to remember calling them "case savers", LOL....

 

[pkhoury]

I haven't needed to install thread inserts in the block yet, but did have to do the other end of the engine mount, both on my car and a friend's 2.slow.

The Timesert kit hurts to initially buy, but it does the job well in this application.

Thankfully, these aren't in the block, but the aluminum mount that attaches to the block.

I've used timeserts on the back of the head before, and another for I think the transmission dogbone bolt, and both were successful. Still irritating, but at least I'm finding now this is normal.

And of course, the PFA:

 

[jmodge]

I'm thinking I'm just going to timesert both holes, including the one that's good, just so I don't have to F with this in the future. And yes, this is probably the third TB change. I did the last onee 90K miles ago after I got the car, so I'm doing it a little early. It's still crazy how easy those threads stripped, as I didn't even get remotely close to tightening the bolt all the way down.

Typical experience, I wondered why people were having this issue, then it happened to me. I barely had snugged it and felt it go

 

[pkhoury]

I forgot to mention I also installed a new air filter, and gotta do the fuel filter after I get my timeserts, finish the TB job, refill coolant, get the engine to operating temp and then fine tune timing in VCDS to my tune (which is between retarded and spot on).

And learning from what happened in Florida, I'm putting on a new accessory belt tensioner and new idler.

For the future, I'm contemplating a new steering rack and new tie rods, because I feel like steering is a bit sloppy on this car. DSOL has a new steering rack and steering feels a lot more spot on on it.

 

[pkhoury]

Typical experience, I wondered why people were having this issue, then it happened to me. I barely had snugged it and felt it go

Haha yup. I was literally saying "what the f*ck" more than once (I think using the F bomb is a necessary part of a TB change, even when things go as planned), but I'm finding this is a common problem now. I'm just going to do both holes so I don't have to f*ck with them again in the future.

 

[norbert77]

I started doing the fuel pump electrical wiring for my 01 beetle. No room in the underhood relay box, so it came up with a good plan to put everything in the very back. Going to run a wire from injection pump up on the left side underneath the filter assembly there's a square block of rubber, poke through that and out the other side into the cabin, I did use a long pointy screwdriver to break through the insulation. Ran signal wire down by rockers all the way to the back, it's going to go up to the left side where the power out that is. Because it already has a dedicated fuse and proper wiring, just going to extend the power outlet wiring to the fuel pump and I'll stick the relay right in there. I'm going to put a small 2 amp fuse on the signal wire somewhere close by the injection pump it just has to feed the relay. I have a 40 amp Bosch relay I have no idea how much current it takes to energize but it can't be that much

 

[norbert77]

Haha yup. I was literally saying "what the f*ck" more than once (I think using the F bomb is a necessary part of a TB change, even when things go as planned), but I'm finding this is a common problem now. I'm just going to do both holes so I don't have to f*ck with them again in the future.

Many moons ago my mom had a Ford aerostar 3.0 van. The rear spark plugs take the flexibility of a 12-year-old Chinese acrobat to get in there, and since my dad is a big man his ultimate solution was to drill a hole through the floor and go straight at it. It did work, made subsequent spark plug changes very easy. It's very tempting to do this every time I come across a job like a timing belt change, if only I dared to drill a hole in strategic places in the subframe. I mean the guys lowering their cars do massive hacking of important parts, surely a hole or two by the timing belt area should be okay

 

[oilhammer]

You access the Vulcan Aerostars' spark plugs through the fender opening. They were not that bad. Distributor access was through the little "mini" dog house. I serviced a ton of those. The Cologne V6 was a little tighter, but all the early ones blew up before they even needed plugs. Can you imagine, Ford actually put a solid-lifter pushrod V6 in those? Periodic valve adjustments were necessary (meaning, you had to take the valve covers off), which NEVER got done... and they also had this silly device called a "carburetor". Between that and the crappy French slushbox they used, I really don't think any of those early 2.8L Aerostars were on the road after three years. And boy were they gutless to drive....

 

[pkhoury]

You access the Vulcan Aerostars' spark plugs through the fender opening. They were not that bad. Distributor access was through the little "mini" dog house. I serviced a ton of those. The Cologne V6 was a little tighter, but all the early ones blew up before they even needed plugs. Can you imagine, Ford actually put a solid-lifter pushrod V6 in those? Periodic valve adjustments were necessary (meaning, you had to take the valve covers off), which NEVER got done... and they also had this silly device called a "carburetor". Between that and the crappy French slushbox they used, I really don't think any of those early 2.8L Aerostars were on the road after three years. And boy were they gutless to drive....

I'm glad the number of gas engines I own is minimal, because I still don't fully understand how carburators work. I mean, I get the concept, but how it really meters fuel is a mystery to me, unless it's kinda luck of the draw. I have a Onan genset on my fifth wheel, and single cylinder lawn equipment, and thankfully that's it. I tell my friends that I pretty much refuse to work on their cars unless they run on diesel (which I still feel is pretty easy to work on). Unless it's a Detroit 6.5L. Those are best destined for metal recycling.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Ordered new brakes thanks to idparts "overstock" sale. Sweet deal for high carbon brakes and pads, even with duties/taxes to Canada. Turns out I procrastinated the perfect amount of time.

@Tdijarhead I believe it was you asking for a progress report about my P01561/2/3 QA faults. I was getting occasional stutter @2,0̷0̷0̷RPM as well, and the engine has died twice. Based off of Rosstechs info I thought hey, I will try the cheapest easiest thing first: timing. Looking back in my notes, the first time it appeared was a week or so after I advanced my static timing. It would not start in the cold due to it being too retarded, so I advanced it. I do not have vcds, I advanced it as anut does using the N10̷8 (QA) duty cycle as my indicator, so I do not know exactly where on the graph I was, but based off his page I would have been a hair above the centre line. So, last night I retarded a bit more (slightly more than I wanted, but after being ready to pull my hair out from going too far one way then the other so many times, I settled) and results after 2 drives - the stutter was not noticable today. Not a win yet, I need more time in it of course, but I thought you and your nephew would like to know. I am feeling optomistic, and I think I was in a perfect storm position causing a funky result? Dunno, but I will post again later with any further observations, and tag you again. If I forget, feel free to DM me for an update.

 

[JonA]

Ordered new brakes thanks to idparts "overstock" sale. Sweet deal for high carbon brakes and pads, even with duties/taxes to Canada. Turns out I procrastinated the perfect amount of time.

@Tdijarhead I believe it was you asking for a progress report about my P01561/2/3 QA faults. I was getting occasional stutter @2,0̷0̷0̷RPM as well, and the engine has died twice. Based off of Rosstechs info I thought hey, I will try the cheapest easiest thing first: timing. Looking back in my notes, the first time it appeared was a week or so after I advanced my static timing. It would not start in the cold due to it being too retarded, so I advanced it. I do not have vcds, I advanced it as anut does using the N10̷8 (QA) duty cycle as my indicator, so I do not know exactly where on the graph I was, but based off his page I would have been a hair above the centre line. So, last night I retarded a bit more (slightly more than I wanted, but after being ready to pull my hair out from going too far one way then the other so many times, I settled) and results after 2 drives - the stutter was not noticable today. Not a win yet, I need more time in it of course, but I thought you and your nephew would like to know. I am feeling optomistic, and I think I was in a perfect storm position causing a funky result? Dunno, but I will post again later with any further observations, and tag you again. If I forget, feel free to DM me for an update.

Hot tip on the brakes, I think I might do the same...

 

[[486]]

one of the tensioner bolt holes is stripped (though I've been able to use two bolts just fine for the time being).

those do that a lot, helicoils fix them though they're a pain to do in the car all assembled

on the engine mount bolts, I helicoil them to m12x1.75 for a little more thread bite into the soft aluminum from the slightly coarser threads, then I use old cylinder head bolts with the heads cut off as studs, so when tightening them there's no thread movement down in the bracket, all the friction is up between the stud and the nut

 

[J_dude]

Hot tip on the brakes, I think I might do the same...

You can get those hot tips dropped right in your inbox if you sign up for emails btw

If I had extra cash right now I’d buy a spare set to keep on the shelf

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

You can get those hot tips dropped right in your inbox if you sign up for emails btw

If I had extra cash right now I’d buy a spare set to keep on the shelf

I also learned my lesson from j dude... Now I get the emails

 

[J_dude]

I also learned my lesson from j dude... Now I get the emails

I just wish Roseland would have sales and promotional stuff, it’s a pain getting stuff from across the border. Would also be awesome if ID Parts had a Canadian branch.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

I just wish Roseland would have sales and promotional stuff, it’s a pain getting stuff from across the border. Would also be awesome if ID Parts had a Canadian branch.

10̷0̷% agree, Canadian idparts would be awesome. I forgot to add an over $10̷0̷ order freebee so I emailed. That blue filter wrench looks pretty good...

 

[Mozambiquer]

Yesterday evening I helped my brother in law get the head gasket finished up on his 2000 Jetta TDI and am getting my sister's 2005 Mk4 ready for sale, gotta do the shifter bushings and put in the rear axle beam bushings as well as install the updated tune from @burpod
I will be driving it for a couple weeks to get an actual mpg picture as well.
I need to get my brother in law in a Burpod tune too. His has a stage two Malone and it's terribly gutless compared to the 2005.

 

[Zak99b5]

those do that a lot, helicoils fix them though they're a pain to do in the car all assembled

on the engine mount bolts, I helicoil them to m12x1.75 for a little more thread bite into the soft aluminum from the slightly coarser threads, then I use old cylinder head bolts with the heads cut off as studs, so when tightening them there's no thread movement down in the bracket, all the friction is up between the stud and the nut

That's a damned good idea.

 

[pkhoury]

Yesterday evening I helped my brother in law get the head gasket finished up on his 2000 Jetta TDI and am getting my sister's 2005 Mk4 ready for sale, gotta do the shifter bushings and put in the rear axle beam bushings as well as install the updated tune from @burpod
I will be driving it for a couple weeks to get an actual mpg picture as well.
I need to get my brother in law in a Burpod tune too. His has a stage two Malone and it's terribly gutless compared to the 2005.

I'm glad others are finally realizing how massively $#itty the Malone tunes have been. The irony being their website talking about how customized they are, but when I asked what logs to take, someone at Malone told me to do logs with it WOT for a few seconds. Uhh.. that's not how I drive on a daily basis.

New shifter and rear axle bushings make a HUGE difference!

 

[pkhoury]

those do that a lot, helicoils fix them though they're a pain to do in the car all assembled

on the engine mount bolts, I helicoil them to m12x1.75 for a little more thread bite into the soft aluminum from the slightly coarser threads, then I use old cylinder head bolts with the heads cut off as studs, so when tightening them there's no thread movement down in the bracket, all the friction is up between the stud and the nut

I already ordered a timesert kit, so I'll be doing that for now. I'm finding it's about a 50/50 deal with those who use timeserts versus helicoils. I just know my late mentor as well as another best friend (who used to own a Volvo/Saab shop) both swore by timeserts, and I've used them twice before.

I'm definitely eager to get it done, though, so I can start using that car again soon.

 

[csstevej]

Yeah time serts are the only way I go now….

 

[[486]]

they are nicer but I have a lot of helicoils so they're free now because I have too much junk

 

[dieseldonato]

So, with this latest tune from burpod I've been experiencing some very good fuel economy. My average of 47 has been up to 50-51 mpg.(been driving pretty nice, no wot or beating on the car.) We had a short ish road trip, where I put 365 miles on the car, mostly highway. Had the wife and kids with, so I was driving very conservatively.(daughter gets car sick on long trips, and wife likes to nag about me driving fast.) I was honestly afraid my sending unit was off, I had just hit the line between 3/4 and 1/2. so I stopped to fill up. 6.3 gallons. Resulting in 57.9 mpg. Did the math a few times, then had my wife recheck before we left the station. Very happy with that. Tune definatly isn't the most powerful, but everything seemed to click for mpg on that trip.

 

[SilverGhost]

Probably going to jinx myself but in 25 years of working on VW (in dealership and indy) I have not had any stripped threads in engine mounts. That included the 400k Jetta I serviced. Though I do clean out the threads with brake clean and compressed air each time. And replace the bolts.
[knock on wood] [throws salt]

Now oil pans - those have I have done many a time sert.

Jason