What did you do to your MKIV today?

[pkhoury]

yep that's what I'm running

talk to me about that full color FIS cluster!

I love it. I don't think they're really available anymore, being that they came from Russia. Someone else had a similar deal with a similar hookup, and it's from somewhere in Eastern Europe I think. @gmenounos made both of mine for me - my identical 2002 Golfs both have one. Works out since I do regularly rotate between cars as my daily driver. But I can put in my own fudge factor/consumption calibration, monitor my boost, read and clear codes when I don't have VCDS handy (don't always have that ,but I don't really go anywhere without my Toughbook). Lots of other cool little features.

 

[Nuje]

yep that's what I'm running

talk to me about that full color FIS cluster!

Clusters by Litke - his "storefront" is on Facebook (), but last I asked him there, he didn't have parts supply; that was roughly a year ago, so maybe things have changed (?).

 

[pkhoury]

Clusters by Litke - his "storefront" is on Facebook (), but last I asked him there, he didn't have parts supply; that was roughly a year ago, so maybe things have changed (?).

Yeah, he builds them, too. I was on his waiting list, until I bought the last one from @gmenounos, and since long term I only plan on keeping my pair of 2002 Golfs, I don't have use for a third one.

The primary issue is our embargo with Russia, which is where the ColorMFA comes from.

 

[Rickstah]

Washed and waxed the beast today (2000 NB ) ,came out nice , 66 degrees in a tee shirt at the end of February in northern NJ.
Also ( not done today but a couple of weeks ago ) replaced driver side - side mirror with the later larger one as it was difficult trying to get a heated replacement mirror for the smaller one that’s on the 2000 NB’s.

Hey! Just saw this, can you specify on the "later larger one" as both my mirrors gave up the heat ghost and are moving very slowly, lol, thanks! I am not finding any search results

 

[Mozambiquer]

Hey! Just saw this, can you specify on the "later larger one" as both my mirrors gave up the heat ghost and are moving very slowly, lol, thanks! I am not finding any search results

The 2003+ beetle had bigger mirrors with lights in them.

 

[PakProtector]

I got after a not working AC on our 2D 2002 Golf. It had pressure enough I could be sure it would start( but maybe show not enough refrigerant). No fans, and no clutch. Brought out the fan and AC controls troubleshooting post documents and laid into it( after I swapped out its FCM ). The pressure sensor was reading decent duty cycle...and finally I got to the ambient temp sensor check. OPEN. This beast is located under the cowl on the extreme driver's side. Wires were broken. spliced them and it is noW running both fans on low( tested that thanks to the guide ). It also got its HIGH function checked.

Looking back on it, Check all the bits available through the T14 connector. Then, or perhaps first check the fans with the jumpers on the radiator connector... A DMM ( good ole Fluke 87-V ) with clip test leads grabbing T pins and you're off to the races.

Douglas

 

[csstevej]

As moz stated above, they are from an 03 and up .
Got one from eBay……. Correct color and the other one from IDPARTS.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Finished pulling the tranny out of the wagon. Also pulled the alternator, ecu and starter. Got the all the ground cables. Going to try and pull the head in the morning. Feel like I already got my $700 worth.

My son and I changed the oil in the alh golf.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Pulled the tandem pump and injectors out of the wagon. Almost done with this car.

 

[Zak99b5]

Rebuilt my oe right axle with a new outer GKN joint. Reused my original inner joint with a new boot, grease, & hardware from the Metelli inner joint because china.

Removed the $37 Chaxle from rock auto. I’m guessing the vibration was coming from the inner joint and solid shaft. The inner can’t be articulated by hand.

Anyway, got the rebuilt axle in, and no vibration all the way past 4,000 rpm. Going to bring it in for an alignment later today—not because of this axle changing since I didn’t need to futz with the ball joint at all, but because I had to change the left wheel bearing a bit ago, and I also put in a new left tre. I was waiting till all this was done in case I did need to disco the ball joint from the LCA.

 

[dieseldonato]

Managed to make a bit of time to mess with the car before work. Noticed a small oil leak coming from the backside of the engine, up around the intake/turbo last time I was under the car. The car hardly uses oil so I wasn't too worried about it. I suspected it may be the valve cover, but on closer inspection it was one of the intake bolts. Pulled the intake off this morning, and sure enough the bolt to the left of the center runners has some oil seeping past it. All the bolts were tight, I had torqued them when I put the pd150 intake on. Hopped in the truck and ran down to the machine shop I used to work at. Leon, the owner, happened to be there and was more then happy to let me check it out on the granite bed. Had a low spot between the bolt hole and gasket surface. We set it up in the mill and surfaced it. Took 0.008" to clean it up, ran a finish pass @0.010". Spotted him a $20.00 amd came back home.
I didn't use any type of sealer on the gasket last time, this time I used a very thin coating of 574 loctite on both sides of the gasket. So hopefully that little issue is fully resolved.
Been running a new tune from burpod, I think we're close to getting the turbo pid set just right. not quite there yet. Haven't been real impressed with the gt1852, just seems like we get it to spool well and then it's constant overboost issues, get the overboost fixed and it's slow to respond to boost requests. Should have went with a gtd series, and whenever I have the spare cash laying around it's getting a gtd2060. But for now we're making it work.

 

[P2B]

Pulled the intake off this morning, and sure enough the bolt to the left of the center runners has some oil seeping past it.

Begs the question - why is there oil in the intake?

 

[dieseldonato]

Begs the question - why is there oil in the intake?

Turbo, crank vent..... stupid design.

 

[pkhoury]

Well, that was kinda fun. Spent 2.5 hours pulling the old turbo off DSOL, after a break in the rain (we got over 8" in the past 30 or so hours). I'm not 100%, but at last 70% sure it's one of the junkyard VNT17's I was lucky to come across. Lucky, until I realized it was overboosting, and as of late, putting the car into limp mode.

I keep a spare VNT17 and 11mm IP on hand for those "oh $hit" moments, and it came in handy today. The spare has the electrical connector for the VNT actuator; it came from my mom's since sold 2005 wagon, so it had maybe 6-7K miles of actual use since I bought it?


I did a boo boo and forgot the bolt that goes above the oil return line, but I've forgot it before, and I had no desire to loosen up all 8 nuts to get it in. Otherwise, everything got torqued to spec, doing it ever so carefully, as I've had studs strip inside the head before.



Took the car for a test drive with @burpod 's latest and previous tune revisions, and if anything, it ever so slightly underboosts. Even one short acceleration stint to 95, it didn't overboost like crazy like the old turbo. In fact, on my ColorMFA, I don't really remember seeing the turbo go over 22 or 23 even. Before, it was reporting up to like 27 psi at times, or any hard acceleration was easily going over 20. Now, it mostly stays under 20, under 10 even, but the car still hauls ass. It all worked out, since I'm sidelining DSEL until I replace a rear right wheel bearing/hub (and people ask me why I have two identical Golfs).


Oh, and on the same car - finally got smart and ordered a rebuilt Bosch 120A alternator from @Mozambiquer . My third Autozone alternator hasn't failed yet, but I'm not putting that past it. In a perfect world, the only Autozone part on this car will be my H7 battery.

 

[pkhoury]

Rebuilt my oe right axle with a new outer GKN joint. Reused my original inner joint with a new boot, grease, & hardware from the Metelli inner joint because china.

Removed the $37 Chaxle from rock auto. I’m guessing the vibration was coming from the inner joint and solid shaft. The inner can’t be articulated by hand.

Anyway, got the rebuilt axle in, and no vibration all the way past 4,000 rpm. Going to bring it in for an alignment later today—not because of this axle changing since I didn’t need to futz with the ball joint at all, but because I had to change the left wheel bearing a bit ago, and I also put in a new left tre. I was waiting till all this was done in case I did need to disco the ball joint from the LCA.

I've had pretty good luck with GKN CV axles. Certainly a helluva lot cheaper than OEM, and yeah, I can't really imagine how poorly a $37 axle is made, since that's like what you'd pay at the junkyard for a used one.

 

[dieseldonato]

Well, that was kinda fun. Spent 2.5 hours pulling the old turbo off DSOL, after a break in the rain (we got over 8" in the past 30 or so hours). I'm not 100%, but at last 70% sure it's one of the junkyard VNT17's I was lucky to come across. Lucky, until I realized it was overboosting, and as of late, putting the car into limp mode.

I keep a spare VNT17 and 11mm IP on hand for those "oh $hit" moments, and it came in handy today. The spare has the electrical connector for the VNT actuator; it came from my mom's since sold 2005 wagon, so it had maybe 6-7K miles of actual use since I bought it?


I did a boo boo and forgot the bolt that goes above the oil return line, but I've forgot it before, and I had no desire to loosen up all 8 nuts to get it in. Otherwise, everything got torqued to spec, doing it ever so carefully, as I've had studs strip inside the head before.



Took the car for a test drive with @burpod 's latest and previous tune revisions, and if anything, it ever so slightly underboosts. Even one short acceleration stint to 95, it didn't overboost like crazy like the old turbo. In fact, on my ColorMFA, I don't really remember seeing the turbo go over 22 or 23 even. Before, it was reporting up to like 27 psi at times, or any hard acceleration was easily going over 20. Now, it mostly stays under 20, under 10 even, but the car still hauls ass. It all worked out, since I'm sidelining DSEL until I replace a rear right wheel bearing/hub (and people ask me why I have two identical Golfs).


Oh, and on the same car - finally got smart and ordered a rebuilt Bosch 120A alternator from @Mozambiquer . My third Autozone alternator hasn't failed yet, but I'm not putting that past it. In a perfect world, the only Autozone part on this car will be my H7 battery.

What kind of intake is that? Looks fancy.

 

[pkhoury]

Looking back on it, Check all the bits available through the T14 connector. Then, or perhaps first check the fans with the jumpers on the radiator connector... A DMM ( good ole Fluke 87-V ) with clip test leads grabbing T pins and you're off to the races.

Douglas

You can never go wrong with Fluke. I'm just bummed most of their new stuff is now made in China. Still using the same 179 I bought new in 2007.

 

[pkhoury]

What kind of intake is that? Looks fancy.

I picked it up from Darkside Developments a few years ago. Convenient, because there's no kinks in the air pathways like on the stock ALH intake, and no need for block off plates or racepipes. When I needed a replacement 90 degree silicon elbow, I opted for yellow (they had it on hand thankfully), just to make the engine compartment stand out a little bit.

 

[MORTAMIR]

My son's ALH starter is on its way out. Picked a rebuild kit from @Mozambiquer and rebuilt the starter I took from the wagon. I was very surprised about all the dirt in there. The part with the four small magnets just fell to pieces and that starter worked!!!! I will probably get another one from him and rebuild the one I am replacing. I was thinking about rebuilding the alternator I pulled out of the wagon as well.

 

[P2B]

Replaced compressor clutch coil in the recent acquisition but found a more pressing issue while under there

Oddly enough the other side of the subframe is almost pristine.

 

[Nuje]

Replaced compressor clutch coil in the recent acquisition but found a more pressing issue while under there

Oddly enough the other side of the subframe is almost pristine.

Someone cut it open to get the retaining nut that has a tendency to break loose when removing a control arm, and then time and road and salt finished the job...?
(Postulating)

 

[oilhammer]

Man, you guys must have some serious heavy duty road chemicals. Wow. We see some GM stuff and some Nissans and a few things here that can get pretty bad, but never seen a Volkswagen do that. That's bad.

 

[Kramer]

Looks like every car I had when I lived in Detroit.

 

[dieseldonato]

Pretty standard state of affairs in states that salt roads, calcium chloride doesn't help much but most don't really use it unless the temps get lower then 25*f. Have been using a lot more salt brine as pretreatment around here. If cost isn't a factor beet juice is a good non corrosive alternate. E-town has been using it for some years now, stinks but is effective and doesn't promote rust.

 

[P2B]

Man, you guys must have some serious heavy duty road chemicals. Wow. We see some GM stuff and some Nissans and a few things here that can get pretty bad, but never seen a Volkswagen do that. That's bad.

Oddly enough the subframes in my stash came from local cars with much higher mileage and they only have surface rust, will be good as new after I hit them with wire brush and paint.

 

[pkhoury]

Got my rebuilt 120A alternator from @Mozambiquer today and need to budget some time to replace it in DSOL. It has a crappy VatoZone Duralost Gold in it now. I think it's the third alternator I've had replaced, and I don't want to replace it again, when we all know the factory Bosch alternators last almost forever.

 

[norbert77]

 

[norbert77]

I got the Garret steel exhaust gasket and the Elring composite black exhaust gasket, which one is better?

 

[Zak99b5]

The urethane GLi lip was looking a little ratty, since I didn’t do anything with it paint/finish wise when I installed it over a year ago.

So I pulled the bumper off to paint it. I didn’t have a lot of matched paint left in the spray can, so I bought a can of flat paint that was kinda close to my color. I also bought satin black paint in case the color didn’t come out very good.

Laid down primer then the color coat. Had just enough LB6X to coat the lip. Had I not started with painting the green undercoat, it would’ve been time to paint it black. But it looked good, so I cleared it. 1K was all I had on hand, so that’s what I used.

Not the best pic since it’s in the shade, but you get the idea.

IMG_1726.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Jul 27, 2024

Painted lip

 

[CanadianALH]

The urethane GLi lip was looking a little ratty, since I didn’t do anything with it paint/finish wise when I installed it over a year ago.

So I pulled the bumper off to paint it. I didn’t have a lot of matched paint left in the spray can, so I bought a can of flat paint that was kinda close to my color. I also bought satin black paint in case the color didn’t come out very good.

Laid down primer then the color coat. Had just enough LB6X to coat the lip. Had I not started with painting the green undercoat, it would’ve been time to paint it black. But it looked good, so I cleared it. 1K was all I had on hand, so that’s what I used.

Not the best pic since it’s in the shade, but you get the idea.

IMG_1726.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Jul 27, 2024

Painted lip

Looks great. I’ve been trying to find the GLI lip front and back but so far I haven’t been able to. There aren’t many of those around here and less for parts for a reasonable price