What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Zak99b5]

If you want to see a PITA, you should try to remove the pinch bolt for the upper control arms from a rust-belt B5. They can make a grown man cry. I've never encountered an issue with the A4 lower strut nut (knock on wood), but a little antiseize on it before reinstallation would be a good idea.

 

[P2B]

I've never encountered an issue with the A4 lower strut nut (knock on wood), but a little antiseize on it before reinstallation would be a good idea.

The nut came off easy peasy, but the bolt was locked solid in the spindle. I've changed a lot of A4 struts here in the salt belt, first time I've seen that - usually just a couple of good whacks gets them out

 

[Zak99b5]

Sorry, I meant bolt.

 

[P2B]

I have got black PowerFlex strut mounts to install, and this could turn into a PITA for sure...

Douglas

Nah, you don't even need the wheels off to swap strut mounts

 

[DuraBioPwr]

Not today but this last weekend:
LCA's on both sides
Ball joints
Front wheel bearings
Passenger side wheel speed sensor (cause I broke the damn thing trying to remove fearing I would break it during wheel bearing pressing ops! RUST!)
Did all that and STILL had a howl starting at 55mph. Turns out it was left rear wheel bearing (the only one I had not replaced) so it got replaced this weekend too.

Back to smooth running. Oh well it needed all that crap anyways after 340Kmi. Struts are still good!

Pro tip on wheel bearings install. Put them in the freezer over night before install and gently heat up the knuckle prior to install. Tapped right in with a hammer and use the old bearing as a press guide to hit only the outside of the race. No press needed for reinstall and went in nice and straight.

 

[Zak99b5]

Not my car, not a TDI, and not a VW, but a fellow (lady) teacher at work got a quote from the Nissan dealer of $589.68 to change her rear hatch struts. Manual hatch.

Had her order a pair from Amazon for $31 and changed them for her in the parking lot in ten minutes.

 

[hey_allen]

I've done the same for a couple friends over the years, it's just ridiculous what the dealers will try to charge.

 

[PakProtector]

Nah, you don't even need the wheels off to swap strut mounts

You might be correct. I don't think so, but maybe...

The PF mounts for sure need the springs compressed. Axle out, ball joint released from LCA, caliper stuffed somewhere not offending the flexible brake line and this looks easy as I recall.

Douglas

 

[GlowBugTDI]

I've done the same for a couple friends over the years, it's just ridiculous what the dealers will try to charge.

My dad was recently quoted $4k+ in repairs. He told the shop if they passed $3k stop there because it won't be worth it to him. The cars only worth $800 to him as its 16 years old, has 200k+ on it, and is a base model car.
I checked imthe car out myself, and gave him a parts list of $460 ( I even splurged a little). I fixed it all up for him in a day and he's going to put another 100k on it now.

 

[Zak99b5]

You might be correct. I don't think so, but maybe...

The PF mounts for sure need the springs compressed. Axle out, ball joint released from LCA, caliper stuffed somewhere not offending the flexible brake line and this looks easy as I recall.

Douglas

Idea is you keep the car on the ground and remove the upper strut nut to take the cap off. Then you can remove the lower flanged strut nut (what keeps it together) and replace it with a non-shouldered nut. Weight of the car prevents anything else from moving. Jack the car up, and you can finagle the old mount out & new one in. Lower car, swap back to the shouldered nut, and reinstall cap & nut.

 

[SilverGhost]

Not my car, not a TDI, and not a VW, but a fellow (lady) teacher at work got a quote from the Nissan dealer of $589.68 to change her rear hatch struts. Manual hatch.

Had her order a pair from Amazon for $31 and changed them for her in the parking lot in ten minutes.

I agree with you, but I can see the price reasoning. Amazon/Autozone struts are not the same as dealer - I have had a couple teeth chipped by those bastard struts from the parts store. OEM can be >$100 each. Second the stupid amount of regulation has cause dealers to charge over $300/hr shop rates (even thou tech may only make $10-15/hr). And for the greedy part they over inflate the shop charges on average.

All that said I would do it for myself, but not for anyone else. Had people come back a few days later and blame me for scratched paint and something else now doesn't work. Paint repair is $$$ and everyone joins the "ever since" club.

/soapbox

Sorry, I got off track. It's nice you helped her out.

Jason

 

[BobnOH]

The cars only worth $800 to him as its 16 years ol

That's just silly.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

That's just silly.

How so? A car is only worth what the seller thinks it is or the market supports. I bought a running driving 04 jeep grand cherokee last summer for $50. Just yesterday I saw a running driving 01 camry for 350$ had issue's, but still... yes, most car's these day's are worth $1k or more but not to everyone.

 

[hey_allen]

Yep, despite what the dealers want us to accept as normal pricing for a new car, and the inflation that is bringing to the used market in turn, it's up to the buyers to set the price that they'll accept.

I just bought a pickup for $800, because I can't agree with the new pricing insanity.
It's rough, admittedly, but with a little work it will do everything I need of it. I could even replace the engine and still be cheaper than many other used trucks, much less a new one.

 

[BobnOH]

How so? A car is only worth what the seller thinks it is or the market supports. I bought a running driving 04 jeep grand cherokee last summer for $50. Just yesterday I saw a running driving 01 camry for 350$ had issue's, but still... yes, most car's these day's are worth $1k or more but not to everyone.

I agree, but these days salvage yard pay almost that much. Dad just needs to update.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

I agree, but these days salvage yard pay almost that much. Dad just needs to update.

Ok. Not around here. Best around here is 350-400$ they'll pay 550$ if you have really good tires. Thats what I saw a very nice 2005 rav4 with 212k and like new tires sell for at the parts yard last fall. I was so bummed that I missed the guy before he went in and sold it. The car easily had another 100k in it. He had just bought a new truck....some people lol.

My dads been flipping cars and things since the 70's. If he can make 20$ he knows how to do it. Very thrifty guy (which is why he drives cheap reliable cars in the first place) which is how he's built his wealth. My whole family flips stuff. He taught us well.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Yep, despite what the dealers want us to accept as normal pricing for a new car, and the inflation that is bringing to the used market in turn, it's up to the buyers to set the price that they'll accept.

I just bought a pickup for $800, because I can't agree with the new pricing insanity.
It's rough, admittedly, but with a little work it will do everything I need of it. I could even replace the engine and still be cheaper than many other used trucks, much less a new one.

It'll probably outlast newer trucks too.
So many chevy 5.7 and 6.0's with as many miles as our tdi's out there.
Ford and toyota have some good ones too.

 

[hey_allen]

It'll probably outlast newer trucks too.
So many chevy 5.7 and 6.0's with as many miles as our tdi's out there.
Ford and toyota have some good ones too.

Will have to see how it goes, but it's starting with blown head gaskets due to the daughter of the PO letting her boyfriend drive it, who broke a coolant hose tee and then drove it until it overheated.

GM 4.8l so it isn't a rare engine, and easily replaced if the initial evaluation of the engine damage doesn't look reasonable to repair.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Will have to see how it goes, but it's starting with blown head gaskets due to the daughter of the PO letting her boyfriend drive it, who broke a coolant hose tee and then drove it until it overheated.

GM 4.8l so it isn't a rare engine, and easily replaced if the initial evaluation of the engine damage doesn't look reasonable to repair.

Those are reliable engines, cheap, and easily replaceable. No guts, but they run for a long time. My buddy has 250k or so on his, and its not even close to giving up. Lots with high miles out there.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Put new parking break cables. Though it seams like the left spring on the caliper is not working.
Except I don't see the spring on either caliper.

 

[valvecrusher]

^^^^ Did you find a good deal on new cables? That is next on my list.......old cables aint holding tight....



My mk4 got a fresh Delvac 1 change today.....At 9600 miles the 97F temps for next two weeks made me jump gun 400 early.
The stuff that came out was old Rotella T6, and it was black and clumpy......
Delvac 1 is ok, I really liked the old Mobil1 TDT TurboDiesel Truck.


That AND......
this Jetta is black, and I'm in N.C. aka the center of the sun's most intense high energy waves.....

I gambled and procrastinated for almost two years fixing the blend door foam.(when i bought car 2 years)....and Monday it paid off, and i lost the gamble with two years of nearly cold trips, and a near oven from April - October.
but now, the day has come.


My AC fan control switch rotated Monday, and rotated, and then some more. The speed didn't increase and the fan went off, with the knob crumbled into my fingers.
I ordered new 1J0 820 045 F HVAC control unit, and I'm now pulling the dash, the steering underpanel, the center console, etc...

tl'dr
I'm fixing the blend doors, and installing new HVAC controls after oil change.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Got them at idparts.

 

[GlowBugTDI]

Put new parking break cables. Though it seams like the left spring on the caliper is not working.
Except I don't see the spring on either caliper.

Hit it with some PB blaster and penetrating oil. They'll free right up usually. Did that on mine this spring as I hadn't used my parking brake in about 2 yrs. Cables were seized and caliper springs were sticking. 20 min freeing things up and all is working again.

 

[MORTAMIR]

I will give a go

 

[KrashDH]

Put new parking break cables. Though it seams like the left spring on the caliper is not working.
Except I don't see the spring on either caliper.

Some came with helper springs, some didn't. Mine did not (02 Golf). If it's sticking, you may be in for a rear caliper rebuild since they are integrated. I Rebuilt both my OEM calipers then added the helper springs. People usually put them on as a bandaid fix for underlying issues (like needing a rebuild) but with fresh pistons, seals, and a good cleaning, then add them, they will serve you well for a long time into the future

 

[P2B]

Put new parking break cables. Though it seams like the left spring on the caliper is not working.
Except I don't see the spring on either caliper.

No springs on stock calipers.

Caliper Spring for Rear Axle - Left (A4)

This spring attaches on the rear caliper and aids in the retraction of the parking brake. This clip fits the left side....

www.idparts.com

Caliper Spring for Rear Axle - Right (A4)

This spring attaches on the rear caliper and aids in the retraction of the parking brake. This clip fits the right side....

www.idparts.com

I remove the levers and dust shields, scrape out the oxidized aluminum with a dental pick, and grease the shafts. Lasts longer than penetrating oil, might delay a full rebuild for a few years.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Not my car, not a TDI, and not a VW, but a fellow (lady) teacher at work got a quote from the Nissan dealer of $589.68 to change her rear hatch struts. Manual hatch.

Had her order a pair from Amazon for $31 and changed them for her in the parking lot in ten minutes.

Hey, they don't call them stealerships for nothing

 

[KrashDH]

No springs on stock calipers.

Caliper Spring for Rear Axle - Left (A4)

This spring attaches on the rear caliper and aids in the retraction of the parking brake. This clip fits the left side....

www.idparts.com

Caliper Spring for Rear Axle - Right (A4)

This spring attaches on the rear caliper and aids in the retraction of the parking brake. This clip fits the right side....

www.idparts.com

I remove the levers and dust shields, scrape out the oxidized aluminum with a dental pick, and grease the shafts. Lasts longer than penetrating oil, might delay a full rebuild for a few years.

I posted the rebuild vid I followed years ago, was super easy

 

[GlowBugTDI]

No springs on stock calipers.

I remove the levers and dust shields, scrape out the oxidized aluminum with a dental pick, and grease the shafts. Lasts longer than penetrating oil, might delay a full rebuild for a few years.

All of the car's I have had came stock with springs on the stock calipers.

Yes grease will help. For getting them moving though oil is the best way to go. Then you have to clean the oil off with brake clean as if you add grease to the oil it won't stick as well and can come off.

 

[MORTAMIR]

I will put the rebuild on the list. This one?