What did you do to your MKIV today?

[P2B]

personally, ive never "seated" an injector and never had one leak...

I do it because they are crush washers and I always get at least another 3/4 turn of the bolt when I re-torque after seating.
@Franko6 and DBW had a heated disagreement about it years ago, I'm in Frank's camp

injector washer not sealing.

anyone had this problem before? been working at it for 3 hours, using new oem washers, newly cut sealing surfaces in the head and on injector, and it is only cyl. 3, engine is ahu with pp764. thanks:)

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[J_dude]

Okay so no slidehammer but I can take an injector to the hardware store and see what size nut fits unless someone knows it off the top of their head.

Just put the lines back on and then tap on the line nuts with a punch.

 

[CanadianALH]

I do it because they are crush washers and I always get at least another 3/4 turn of the bolt when I re-torque after seating.
@Franko6 and DBW had a heated disagreement about it years ago, I'm in Frank's camp

injector washer not sealing.

anyone had this problem before? been working at it for 3 hours, using new oem washers, newly cut sealing surfaces in the head and on injector, and it is only cyl. 3, engine is ahu with pp764. thanks:)

forums.tdiclub.com

I can’t see tapping on them wrecking anything or being a fireable offence and it helped in my case but maybe mine weren’t 110% cleaned up either. My cylinder head has also done 456k Km before the new injectors so maybe they just don’t seat as well. And frank0 has a good point about not tightening the crap out of the hold down bolts which this helps with. I think tap or no tap is ok. First time I pulled one out to check if it has stock nozzles I just tossed it back in with a clean and no tap and it didn’t leak. When I did the .260’s I tapped and the one still leaked a bit, one more little tap and it was fixed. Jude’s method also will work if you are gentle and careful.

 

[P2B]

Okay so no slidehammer but I can take an injector to the hardware store and see what size nut fits unless someone knows it off the top of their head.

m14x1.5

Any nut in the suspension that takes a 17mm wrench works.

 

[P2B]

.And frank0 has a good point about not tightening the crap out of the hold down bolts which this helps with

I have seen more than one broken hold down clamp from people trying a stop a leak by tightening the bolt beyond 20nm. They are quite brittle.

 

[burpod]

Okay so no slidehammer but I can take an injector to the hardware store and see what size nut fits unless someone knows it off the top of their head.

Just worried about any potential engine damage the injector imbalance can have/has had over the past 25k+ miles
Already have what looks like soot in the coolant ball :/

Usually there's a leak either at the fitting or from the bore after changing injectors in my experience but not this time for once

i think only damage will occur if injector has a very poor spray pattern/streaming which you'd need a pop tester to check for. the deviation numbers you see aren't horrible, but they would give pause for concern. i also don't really put a huge amount of stock in those numbers unless they are very far off. i do recall seeing one person who had numbers that weren't all that bad (Similar to yours iirc) but when he took the injectors out, there was one injector hole that was clearly globbed up like it wasn't spraying right at all - which is definitely not good at all. does it idle smoothly?

soot in the coolant ball would most certainly be from something else - leaking HG of course which most surely be from other factors like too much boost/advance combined with too much fuel/high PCPs...

 

[hans_gruber0]

i think only damage will occur if injector has a very poor spray pattern/streaming which you'd need a pop tester to check for. the deviation numbers you see aren't horrible, but they would give pause for concern. i also don't really put a huge amount of stock in those numbers unless they are very far off. i do recall seeing one person who had numbers that weren't all that bad (Similar to yours iirc) but when he took the injectors out, there was one injector hole that was clearly globbed up like it wasn't spraying right at all - which is definitely not good at all. does it idle smoothly?

soot in the coolant ball would most certainly be from something else - leaking HG of course which most surely be from other factors like too much boost/advance combined with too much fuel/high PCPs...

I'd have to take a video to really say. Not sure what is normal to hear or not.

I've got about ~50k mi on the last timing belt job and not very comfortable pulling the head and reassembling/redoing timing. Wish I had another mk4 to practice on or could find an ALH under $1500

EDIT: a quick video hopefully captures accurately how the car sounds https://streamable.com/rnnjtw

 

[wonneber]

Well, it's a good idea to print off the pages you need before starting a job anyway, and that still applies to the paper manuals too. I'd say scan the ones you need and print em because you don't want to get grease on those books.

Having the on line manual is easier to print only the pages you need.
If the printer can print both sides (duplex) you can save the pages, hole punch them and put them in a binder.
Also my Windows 11 PC's have a print to PDF if I need to save just a section to disk.

 

[P2B]

EDIT: a quick video hopefully captures accurately how the car sounds https://streamable.com/rnnjtw

I'm probably wrong but I think I'm hearing a compression leak on one cylinder. Have you squirted a little soapy water onto the injector bases and checked for bubbling ?

 

[hans_gruber0]

I'm probably wrong but I think I'm hearing a compression leak on one cylinder. Have you squirted a little soapy water onto the injector bases and checked for bubbling ?

Thought there was something slightly tapping/knocking that wasn't supposed to be there :/

I sprayed simple green throughout the engine bay to try and clean up the fuel and didn't notice any but I can do it again.
Best done when the engine is still cool?

I also threaded a nut on and lightly tapped with a 3lb hammer to seat the injectors. No change in injector balance

 

[JDSwan87]

Over the last few weeks...
NewSouth boost gauge
NewSouth EGT gauge (just wired up, no probe til bigger turbo)
Oil change
Gearbox oil change
.260 injectors (swapped to D plug)
.681 5th gear swap

 

[ekincaid]

I have been replacing the serpentine belt and some hoses while looking for boost leaks. Noticed the tensioner needed replaced. The last guy who did this left the longer of the 3 13mm bolts out. Anyone know how long it is? I need to find/get a replacement.

 

[J_dude]

I have been replacing the serpentine belt and some hoses while looking for boost leaks. Noticed the tensioner needed replaced. The last guy who did this left the longer of the 3 13mm bolts out. Anyone know how long it is? I need to find/get a replacement.

@CanadianALH

 

[P2B]

I have been replacing the serpentine belt and some hoses while looking for boost leaks. Noticed the tensioner needed replaced. The last guy who did this left the longer of the 3 13mm bolts out. Anyone know how long it is? I need to find/get a replacement.

I think that's the right bolt. Based on measuring the tensioner it should be 20mm longer than the other two.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I believe it's an M8x70

 

[CanadianALH]

@CanadianALH

Well I don’t remember the length. I know the bolt was stripped and I retapped it to a standard size 3/8’s rings a bell. Not sure why people like to put these together with two bolts

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

I believe it's M14x1.5 and you can use a lugnut to screw on the end of the injector. Be sure to keep it clean!!!

Another way is to use a punch between the hold down bolt and the injector and give it a good whack with a hammer
Another way is to use a hex key and an extension on the hold down bolt itself and give it a firm hit with a hammer, then re-torque

A spray bottle with soapy water is helpful to find the leaks.

 

[P2B]

Not sure why people like to put these together with two bolts

People tend to strip the threads the third bolt goes into, so they leave it out or it falls out later

 

[P2B]

Another way is to use a hex key and an extension on the hold down bolt itself and give it a firm hit with a hammer, then re-torque

The bolt is threaded into the head, so hitting it can only damage the threads.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

The bolt is threaded into the head, so hitting it can only damage the threads.

Yes, it is threaded into the cylinder head. Putting a force on the bolt opposite of the preload will move it to the other side of the thread clearance thereby pushing on the fork which pushes on the injector and the copper washer and seating it.

If someone goes all silly on it with a huge hammer, then yes, threads will be damaged. Like any tool or technique - it needs to be done properly.

 

[J_dude]

If someone goes all silly on it with a huge hammer, then yes, threads will be damaged.

Or the fork will break...

 

[northern diesel]

Did my first brake swap with the brakes from the parts car.. they are in much better shape! Now i dont makes the res dogs all bark with each twp of the brakes

 

[Boosty]

Finally had time to work on youngest daughters 03 NB’s A/C system.
Pressures were even on both suction and pressure so I ordered a RCV from polar bear along with seal kit.
It was pretty straight forward to do , but was unhappy as the oil wasn’t clear but had an grey tint and I didn’t have time to replace it nor the oil .
So I trudged ahead and replaced the RCV installed new gaskets , vacuumed system for 30 minutes and checked for leaks , which were none .
I serviced the Freon to the correct amount and pressure and suction was good , I got 36 degrees out the vent .
I know in the future I’m gonna be replacing parts , but this gets her on the road for now.

My question for you guys is …… is there a good write up on what needs to be change and how to flush out the system.
I know I’m looking at a compressor , condenser , receiver dryer , expansion valve.
Also what good compressors are there to be had , I know they’re nissen , Valero , Bosch and sanden plus after market ones .
Thanks In advance.

My 04 Jetta gasser ac clutch went so replaced the whole thing with one from rock auto. All we did was compressor, orifice valve, and drier, 30 mins of pull and 30 pounds of pressure and the ac will drive you out of the car once it gets to full boogie.

 

[SilverGhost]

There was a good bit of deviation of IQ between injectors on my set of injectors with dlc1019 nozzles I'd reused crush washers on a year or two ago.

So today pulled the injectors, old washers, and cleaned the injectors bores/seats and put in a set of used pp764 nozzles/injectors I'd bought from a guru several years ago and installed them.

Pulled the injector return line fitting completely off and sucked alot of fuel with Capri tool brake bleeder and still could not get a spray or stream of fuel when cracking the injector nuts loose 4 at a time or two at a time (#1 and #3 ->> #2 and #4)

Now left scratching my head of how I got past this issue last time. Might have been a bottle of diesel purge held high above the pump feeding directly into the line that feeds the pump bypassing the fuel filter and fuel filter T all together but alas the store is closed and nobody to hold the bottle for now

Only one thought to add - I have had a few injection pumps crap them selves when I tried to prime them after a fuel filter change. Mostly it was the internal transfer pump (that sucks fuel from the tank for the injection pump) that failed. We could get the car to run after suppling fuel with pressure, but it would not pull it's own fuel.

Jason

 

[Zak99b5]

Noticed a new rattle sound going on with the engine this morning. I heard it briefly a couple other times the past few days, but it was so fleeting (as the car was shut off or downshifting for a turn onto a side street, for example) I was totally clueless.

This morning as I was coasting to a stoplight I heard it again, but this time it persisted. Pressed the clutch in when I stopped to see if it was just chatter from the SMFW, but that didn't stop it. A blip of the throttle got it to go away, but it returned as the engine went back to idle.

It does sound kind of like a heat shield rattle, but I am half suspecting it's the alternator pulley. As far as I know, it's original to the car (240K). I pre-emptively tried to change it a year or so ago without removing the alt, but no joy, even with the special short removal tools. But the pulley was working as intended at that time, so I didn't feel bad about just leaving it be. Tensioner and idler pulley were replaced.

I'll have to dig into this further over the weekend.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Noticed a new rattle sound going on with the engine this morning. I heard it briefly a couple other times the past few days, but it was so fleeting (as the car was shut off or downshifting for a turn onto a side street, for example) I was totally clueless.

This morning as I was coasting to a stoplight I heard it again, but this time it persisted. Pressed the clutch in when I stopped to see if it was just chatter from the SMFW, but that didn't stop it. A blip of the throttle got it to go away, but it returned as the engine went back to idle.

It does sound kind of like a heat shield rattle, but I am half suspecting it's the alternator pulley. As far as I know, it's original to the car (240K). I pre-emptively tried to change it a year or so ago without removing the alt, but no joy, even with the special short removal tools. But the pulley was working as intended at that time, so I didn't feel bad about just leaving it be. Tensioner and idler pulley were replaced.

I'll have to dig into this further over the weekend.

If you look at the tensioner and its wiggling back and forth, thats probably what it is.

 

[Nuje]

This morning as I was coasting to a stoplight I heard it again, but this time it persisted. Pressed the clutch in when I stopped to see if it was just chatter from the SMFW, but that didn't stop it. A blip of the throttle got it to go away, but it returned as the engine went back to idle.

It does sound kind of like a heat shield rattle, but I am half suspecting it's the alternator pulley. As far as I know, it's original to the car (240K). I pre-emptively tried to change it a year or so ago without removing the alt, but no joy, even with the special short removal tools. But the pulley was working as intended at that time, so I didn't feel bad about just leaving it be. Tensioner and idler pulley were replaced.

I'll have to dig into this further over the weekend.

Yeah - I'd get to that alternator however you can. I had something similar...would come and go....and got progressively worse on drive to Portland (500km drive).
Got to the hotel and then car wouldn't start....wouldn't even turn over. Push-start - nothing. Cut the serpentine belt and it started no problem. But turns out the pulley wasn't too bad, but the bearings on the alternator had seized up.
So, check everything in the serpentine belt path, is what I'm saying.

 

[Zak99b5]

Yeah - I'd get to that alternator however you can. I had something similar...would come and go....and got progressively worse on drive to Portland (500km drive).
Got to the hotel and then car wouldn't start....wouldn't even turn over. Push-start - nothing. Cut the serpentine belt and it started no problem. But turns out the pulley wasn't too bad, but the bearings on the alternator had seized up.
So, check everything in the serpentine belt path, is what I'm saying.

I took a peek at the serp belt after I got home yesterday. The noise was active, but not as loud as it can get. The tensioner was not bouncing; in fact, it was almost stationary. So I don't think it's the alternator pulley.

However, the whole motor was vibrating back & forth pretty good. It was easiest to see by looking at the loop for the oil dipstick handle, fuel lines, and the emblem on the cover. Like, the dipstick handle looked like a blur, if that makes sense. Moving back & forth about 3/8". You'd never be able to see if there were any bubbles in the fuel supply line with it shaking like it was. But I didn't feel this in the car. Broke out the stethescope, and the PS pump and the tensioner were quiet but I didn't have time to go any deeper.

I popped the hood when I started it this morning, and the motor was running normally, with no noise and no vibration like above. But as I was idling at a stoplight after driving a mile or so, the noise was present.

So I have noticed that the rattle seems worst at idle when the engine is warming up. I may have to start a thread on this, but I want to do a little more diagnosing tomorrow beforehand.

 

[CanadianALH]

I took a peek at the serp belt after I got home yesterday. The noise was active, but not as loud as it can get. The tensioner was not bouncing; in fact, it was almost stationary. So I don't think it's the alternator pulley.

However, the whole motor was vibrating back & forth pretty good. It was easiest to see by looking at the loop for the oil dipstick handle, fuel lines, and the emblem on the cover. Like, the dipstick handle looked like a blur, if that makes sense. Moving back & forth about 3/8". You'd never be able to see if there were any bubbles in the fuel supply line with it shaking like it was. But I didn't feel this in the car. Broke out the stethescope, and the PS pump and the tensioner were quiet but I didn't have time to go any deeper.

I popped the hood when I started it this morning, and the motor was running normally, with no noise and no vibration like above. But as I was idling at a stoplight after driving a mile or so, the noise was present.

So I have noticed that the rattle seems worst at idle when the engine is warming up. I may have to start a thread on this, but I want to do a little more diagnosing tomorrow beforehand.

When my alternator pulley went sometimes it couldn’t be heard from time to time so I thought nothing of it. When I got into the power the car would kinda stumble and the battery light would come on that was the sure sign it was done. Maybe your DMF in starting to go. Those also go on the manuals and can rattle

 

[Zak99b5]

When my alternator pulley went sometimes it couldn’t be heard from time to time so I thought nothing of it. When I got into the power the car would kinda stumble and the battery light would come on that was the sure sign it was done. Maybe your DMF in starting to go. Those also go on the manuals and can rattle

I installed a SMFW this past December. And the sound does seem to come from the right side of the car. I'm going to remove the serp belt and see if that changes the sound and also recheck the alt pulley.