What did you do to your MKIV today?

[KrashDH]

" The MAF is upstream of the CCV "

Oops, right you are. I did thank of that after posting, lol, shoulda' edited that bit out. Still, that engine block
vapor is going somewhere, or not. I'm catching something I don't want from, at the very least, the inside of
the pipes.

Krash,
And I take your point about IC oil coming from the turbo, nevertheless, less oil, vapor or otherwise, is better.
Mebbe a can on the turbo outlet to the SMIC is called for. I'll have to check my IC to see if there's anything
in there. Lol, I figgered I might be poking the hornets nest of peoples opines on the subject,,,,,,,,

Having ran both, with data (oil qty) from both setups, I made my decision based on the fact it really wasn't doing anything except taking up space.

Didn't hurt my feelings one way or the other. I advocated for it when I put it in, for the theoretical benefits, but find that in my case, theory wasn't reality

 

[burpod]

Having ran both, with data (oil qty) from both setups, I made my decision based on the fact it really wasn't doing anything except taking up space.

Didn't hurt my feelings one way or the other. I advocated for it when I put it in, for the theoretical benefits, but find that in my case, theory wasn't reality

this was also what i found got rid of it a long time ago. what i do now to take up space is run a switched ccv vent using adjustable boost pressure switch + egr solenoid (mounted inside the dash) + 3way cheap "heater bypass valve" so if boost is say <8psi ccv goes to intake, else it goes to a dump. reduces stink at idle and parking lots and i don't worry about having it hooked to intake if i'm doing 30psi *shrug* zero scientific data on this, of course, but one can smell it if it's dumping

 

[J_dude]

this was also what i found got rid of it a long time ago. what i do now to take up space is run a switched ccv vent using adjustable boost pressure switch + egr solenoid (mounted inside the dash) + 3way cheap "heater bypass valve" so if boost is say <8psi ccv goes to intake, else it goes to a dump. reduces stink at idle and parking lots and i don't worry about having it hooked to intake if i'm doing 30psi *shrug* zero scientific data on this, of course, but one can smell it if it's dumping

That is a really neat idea but maybe too complicated for me

 

[braddies]

Always thought that the additional oil from the CCV would add a little lubrication for the intake valves..

 

[PakProtector]

Always thought that the additional oil from the CCV would add a little lubrication for the intake valves..

Examine its path...

Down the TIP to the compressor inlet, downhill further to the intercooler. Then the path is mostly uphill until it gets to the intake manifold. *ANY liquid getting to the compressor wheel is to be avoided; the wheel itself is moving so fast erosion slowly happens. Under sub freezing temperature, any moisture( combustion gas forced past the rings) will condense and freeze in the IC.

Douglas

 

[dieseldonato]

And just think, "catch can, and crank case emissions" wasn't even a thing with diesels till emission laws mandated it.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

And just think, "catch can, and crank case emissions" wasn't even a thing with diesels till emission laws mandated it.

Which was a very, very long time ago. Diesels that didn't have this were far more primitive than what we had even in the early 2000s.

 

[PakProtector]

Aaaaaannnnnnd...the very fortuitous situation we have in the longevity of these beautiful beasts was completely ignored by its creators. 10 years and 150,000 miles...and then buy another. By now we contemplate an ALH car with that mileage as 'young'; so to say, with a Looooong future ahead of it. Things like adding more gear box lubricant( over fill of the O2J ) is just the tip of the iceberg...heh-heh-heh. Not saying that it is an absolute BAD to avoid a catch can, but it for sure will help a bit...

Douglas

 

[Judson]

One question: i’ve never read on these forums that one needs to idle for a minute after driving to let the turbo spin down in order to avoid cooking the oil that’s in the turbo. In other words, if you shut the car down right away the oil stops circulating and the remaining oil in the turbo would get cooked silly, leading to premature failure of the turbo.
But I’ve never done that with my car and I’ve never read about anybody else doing this on these forums, so the question is: did turbo tech change? Is this a gas versus diesel issue?
I don’t think any of the modern gas turbocharged engines require a spool down period so I’m thinking turbo/engine design got better.
????
Jud

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Judson - If you were pulling a trailer or road racing and the EGT's were 1500F+ and you immediately shut the engine off from high load, then there may be some concern about cooking the oil in the turbo.

If you coast/drive easy to the pits or an exit ramp, the EGT's have dropped within seconds and the oil and now much cooler exhaust gasses have been cooling the turbo so with modern (last 20+ years) synthetic oils, there's nothing to be concerned about.

Turbo/engine design is actually running at hotter temperatures - particularly in gasoline engines. It's the oil technology that has advanced.

 

[Andyinchville1]

One question: i’ve never read on these forums that one needs to idle for a minute after driving to let the turbo spin down in order to avoid cooking the oil that’s in the turbo. In other words, if you shut the car down right away the oil stops circulating and the remaining oil in the turbo would get cooked silly, leading to premature failure of the turbo.
But I’ve never done that with my car and I’ve never read about anybody else doing this on these forums, so the question is: did turbo tech change? Is this a gas versus diesel issue?
I don’t think any of the modern gas turbocharged engines require a spool down period so I’m thinking turbo/engine design got better.
????
Jud

HI,

I think the turbo cool off time mainly has to do with towing heavy and then letting the engine run a few minutes until the turbo temps go down .

For hot shot trucks and others who tow heavy (typically pick up trucks or bigger trucks) there is a Turbo Timer that one can buy where you can turn your truck off as normal and walk away from the vehicle and the timer keeps the engine running for a user selectable amount of time to allow the turbo to cool down before the turbo timer shuts things off .... spares the driver from having to sit in the truck for the extra time while the turbo cools off ....

Theoretically we should do the same if really working the engine but we probably don't work our engines hard enough for the most part to warrant it....

Andrew

 

[PakProtector]

SAAB once did some serious digging into turbo failures in the 99/900 era. The folk who lived at the top of a hill had a higher rate v those at the bottom. Cooling things off before shutdown is still a good idea...

Douglas

 

[hey_allen]

I started my car without glow plugs in single digit temperatures...

It wasn't intentional!

It turns out the connector that the earlier cars (AHU?) used, and that I used when replacing my glow plug harness had issues with positive retention of the male terminals and the first truly cold start of the year melted the connector and let the wires back completely apart.
Once I removed the pins from the crispy remains of the make half of the connector and plugged them into the sockets, it started with barely a turn of the key.

Time to rewire the glow plug harness again, without the VW two pin connectors...

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Had mine towed down to the mechanic yesterday - cranked over once and then not even a click. Turns out the ground braid rusted off, as they occasionally do.

Seeing as it's original, I'm just having a whole new one put in - I think after 492K miles the car's earned a fresh starter (and I imagine the dead one's still good enough to be a rebuildable core).

 

[J_dude]

Had mine towed down to the mechanic yesterday - cranked over once and then not even a click. Turns out the ground braid rusted off, as they occasionally do.

Seeing as it's original, I'm just having a whole new one put in - I think after 492K miles the car's earned a fresh starter (and I imagine the dead one's still good enough to be a rebuildable core).

Do it right the first time and get a good one from Mozambiquer, I got a reman Bosch from elsewhere and it was no better than the old one I took out.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Do it right the first time and get a good one from Mozambiquer, I got a reman Bosch from elsewhere and it was no better than the old one I took out.

Seconded, my car is a champ now. Much cheaper than a reman too.

 

[hey_allen]

I fixed the glow plug harness on mine, and it apparently decided that I needed to pay it more attention...

I came out to drive to when today and found a lie coolant wasn't, and a leak from the front of the engine bay. It appears to be the pipe from the thermostat housing, so possibly the o-ring finally decided it was done. Such fun to work on in the middle of winter!

 

[Mozambiquer]

Had mine towed down to the mechanic yesterday - cranked over once and then not even a click. Turns out the ground braid rusted off, as they occasionally do.

Seeing as it's original, I'm just having a whole new one put in - I think after 492K miles the car's earned a fresh starter (and I imagine the dead one's still good enough to be a rebuildable core).

That's the motor lead, it is attached to the brush holder inside.
Not hard to rebuild if you look at the link in my signature.

 

[P2B]

Had mine towed down to the mechanic yesterday - cranked over once and then not even a click. Turns out the ground braid rusted off, as they occasionally do.

Piece of copper cut from a 1/2" pipe soldered on with a plumber's torch. Still going strong years later

 

[Rob Mayercik]

I realize all that, but it wasn't in the cards to do it myself - I couldn't get it into the garage (in wrong position, and no space), it was starting to snow, and it was 3pm (so only about an hour and half of daylight left). Also, I was concerned about the hardware not coming apart without a fight/breaking things. While I would have liked to tackle this on my own, it just wasn't in the cards this time.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Here's one I just did today for a customer.
Like new!

 

[J_dude]

View attachment 135464
Here's one I just did today for a customer.
Like new!

Beauty!

 

[P2B]

View attachment 135464
Here's one I just did today for a customer.
Like new!

Wouldn't solid copper be a better choice than braid? Here in the salt belt it's always the first thing to fail

 

[Mozambiquer]

Wouldn't solid copper be a better choice than braid? Here in the salt belt it's always the first thing to fail

The braid flows electricity better, which is why we use stranded wire in vehicles.
Its part of the brush holder assembly as well, so its not a part that gets replaced by itself.

 

[P2B]

The braid flows electricity better, which is why we use stranded wire in vehicles

Actually solid wire has greater current carrying capacity at a given diameter, which is why it's preferred in residential wiring. Stranded wire is used in vehicles because it's greater flexibility makes it more reliable.

 

[csstevej]

It’s so shiny !!!!
Nice work.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Last night I pulled my downpipe with a friend to replace the old flexpipe. The nut on the furst stud came loose, then as I was threading it out, the stud snapped. I dilly dallied a while trying to decide whether to proceed or not, but the other two came of rather easily... So we got the pipe finished, then tried tackling the stud to no avail. I was running out of time in the shop at my work, so for now I bolted it back on with two nuts, and there is no more cabin fumigation on start up, and it is quieter, including lost turbo sound :/ So it appears to not be leaking with the two nuts. I want to fix it properly though. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, I started a thread here.

IMG_9213.jpeg

• The Cream Dolphin
• Jan 18, 2024

Tired 20̷ year old flex pipe.

IMG_9215.jpeg

• The Cream Dolphin
• Jan 18, 2024

Shiny middle bit!

 

[Rrusse11]

Get some penetrating oil on the broken stud. Drive it, warm it up, and get some more on it.
Hot and cold cycling will help work the lubricant in. After a day or two, give it a good smack,
then try tightening it, yes, tighten. Then try loosening.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Get some penetrating oil on the broken stud. Drive it, warm it up, and get some more on it.
Hot and cold cycling will help work the lubricant in. After a day or two, give it a good smack,
then try tightening it, yes, tighten. Then try loosening.

Thanks! I put loads on it, and drove it home. On my next days off I will give it another try.

 

[P2B]

Bought another one

2003, 361km, a few rust bubbles starting in the usual spots but overall in great shape. I have done some of the maintenance over the past few years so know it's history. Purchased from a veteran member who wasn't using it much and decided to move on.

Needs the high pressure PS hose replaced so we decided to rent a dolly rather than work outside in the snow and cold.