dieseldonato
Veteran Member
Looks like you zip tie it to the ring around the bottom. Not totally unlike how vw did it, they just used that plastic ring to hold the boot to the bottom of the shifter.
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
STDOUBT
Veteran Member
My OE boot was sunbaked, so I didn't re-use it, but on the installation instructions page it looks like it comes apart pretty easily!
Since my custom leather boot was thicker, I couldn't use the included o-ring thingey nor the zip tie.
I used some 12 ga copper wire like a twist-tie to attach the boot. Worked great!
PakProtector
Top Post Dawg
Should perhaps read something to do with plural Mk.4's. Am currently plotting the fettling of the latest add to the herd. TB kit, e-brake cables. Then on to an exam of 'does it need its blend doors plugged'. Right now the only thing going to happen to it is an in-place clean out of the rot pockets behind the front wheel wells, and removal of the foam should it still be there.
Douglas
Douglas
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
When I did my headlight retrofit, I custom wired the inside headlight harness for the functionality that I wanted it to have with all my extra goodies. I put led bulbs in the projector housings for the fog lights, but it was a very back burner project
Now that I wired the gauges in and ran stuff through the firewall, decided it would be a good time to run the fog light trigger wires and such too.
On the euro switch, fog position 1 will be headlight fogs, and pos 2 will be the in bumper amber/yellow fogs. I could have been done, but I decided I didn't want relays all over the place. Plus I already have some extra wiring from my morimoto harness, the under hood lights, and the addition of a BEW lift pump.
I ordered an auxiliary fuse/relay box and am going to send both sets of fog lights throught relays in there (even thought both draw such little current). Its got spots for non relay fused power as well, so I'll send my under hood lighting to there as well. Headlight ballasts im going to keep directly connected to battery power (and the ground) just for peace of mind. Fuel pump power I'm not sure if I'll keep it directly to battery or go off the new aux box, I'll make a game time decision.
Aux box is supplied by 2x 12ga wires. I'm going to install an inline 40a breaker between batter pos and the aux power since the 2x 12ga wires I'll tie together in parallel can safely handle that. The side going from the battery to the breaker will have 8ga which can also handle 40a.
So for some reason if something goes bad, the individual circuits are all protected by fuses and itlf it goes really bad, the breaker will trip (it's resettable)
I don't plan anything with massive current draw to be on this car, so 40A at the same time is plenty. I think the bumper fog light bulbs I have draw like 3A if that, and the ones in the actual headlight housing are around 1A. The under hood lighting is about 1A, the fuel pump is (?). I'm well within the parameters.
I'll post a couple pics when it's all said and done.
Now that I wired the gauges in and ran stuff through the firewall, decided it would be a good time to run the fog light trigger wires and such too.
On the euro switch, fog position 1 will be headlight fogs, and pos 2 will be the in bumper amber/yellow fogs. I could have been done, but I decided I didn't want relays all over the place. Plus I already have some extra wiring from my morimoto harness, the under hood lights, and the addition of a BEW lift pump.
I ordered an auxiliary fuse/relay box and am going to send both sets of fog lights throught relays in there (even thought both draw such little current). Its got spots for non relay fused power as well, so I'll send my under hood lighting to there as well. Headlight ballasts im going to keep directly connected to battery power (and the ground) just for peace of mind. Fuel pump power I'm not sure if I'll keep it directly to battery or go off the new aux box, I'll make a game time decision.
Aux box is supplied by 2x 12ga wires. I'm going to install an inline 40a breaker between batter pos and the aux power since the 2x 12ga wires I'll tie together in parallel can safely handle that. The side going from the battery to the breaker will have 8ga which can also handle 40a.
So for some reason if something goes bad, the individual circuits are all protected by fuses and itlf it goes really bad, the breaker will trip (it's resettable)
I don't plan anything with massive current draw to be on this car, so 40A at the same time is plenty. I think the bumper fog light bulbs I have draw like 3A if that, and the ones in the actual headlight housing are around 1A. The under hood lighting is about 1A, the fuel pump is (?). I'm well within the parameters.
I'll post a couple pics when it's all said and done.
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You better!!
dieseldonato
Veteran Member
Interested to see finished pictures too.
The Cream Dolphin
Veteran Member
Got code P1563 QA lower limit stop value, with a slight shudder at idle and 170̷0̷RPM. Got it the first time ever after changing my fuel filter, and noticed some air in the clear line, It seems from other reading that may be the cause? Brought the adaptation for qa back to stock at 5mg/st from 3. It stopped it for now
Today I installed some new headlamp bulbs, and discovered the wiring inside the housings is shedding insulation like a 90's Mercedes. I patched it up with electrical tape. I'm eventually going to shell out for some new headlamps, for now disaster is averted.
*EDIT* I should add that this project also revealed why the driver headlamp was dimmer and had a wonky pattern -- the bulb was not locked in, and it had slipped back so only about half the bulb was inside the reflector. In hindsight I should have realized this sooner, but I wasn't motivated to pull the battery for access.
*EDIT* I should add that this project also revealed why the driver headlamp was dimmer and had a wonky pattern -- the bulb was not locked in, and it had slipped back so only about half the bulb was inside the reflector. In hindsight I should have realized this sooner, but I wasn't motivated to pull the battery for access.
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KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
Honestly, most of the aftermarket headlight wiring these days uses the flexible silicone sheath wiring harnesses. Won't crack on you again and much greater flexibility than the PVC coated crap. If your headlights are in good shape, I would just rob a wiring kit from one of those if you end up purchasing aftermarket ones.
I also think AArodriguez sells just the pre made harnesses with the upgraded wiring as well.
Edit: After being shown an "interesting" news article to say the least, maybe just skip him and steal the harnesses out of an aftermarket light setup...
I do have a couple of new headlight harnesses that have the standard PVC coating that were pulled from an aftermarket setup (new)that have the wiring for the projector bulb. If you don't have projector in the housing you could just omit using that wire
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My headlights are junk. The reflectors are flaking, the DS is missing the cover over the turn signal bulb, and of course the insulation is coming off the wires. I would have replaced them all ready, but I keep fishing for a dead Golf close enough to be practical to buy for front end parts. That fixes multiple issues -- denty left fender, beat up bumper cover and junk lights. Plus it makes the car more attractive, at least to my eyes.
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Not specifically only mk4 related, but I signed a lease on a shop close to me where I will be working on these and other tdis. I may be a bit excited lol.
Obviously still doing the starters and alternators, but adding in diagnostics, repairs and all on small diesels.
Obviously still doing the starters and alternators, but adding in diagnostics, repairs and all on small diesels.
csstevej
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2004
- Location
- north nj
- TDI
- 2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,glutton for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB , added an 06 NB DSG
Congratulations ! Good luck with the shop !
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
@Mozambiquer,
You gonna' have enough room for your fleet of TDIs?
You'll be pushing Oilhammer's
collection for number of cars if you keep it up. Good luck with the new venture!
You gonna' have enough room for your fleet of TDIs?
You'll be pushing Oilhammer's collection for number of cars if you keep it up. Good luck with the new venture!
TornadoRed
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 3, 2003
- Location
- West Des Moines (formerly St Paul)
- TDI
- 2003 Golf GLS 5-spd, indigo blue; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, silver; 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, indigo blue; 2003 Golf GL 5-spd, red (retired); 2003 Jetta TDI wagon, Candy White (sold)
I hope there are enough TDIs in the area to keep you busy. Though I suppose you'll branch out to work on other diesels as well, and maybe gas-engine VWs?
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 2004 VW Touareg V10 TDI, 2012 Audi Q7 V6 TDI, 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
There are a lot of them locally, and I also do the starters and alternators as well plus work on other small diesels that some people won't touch, like some of the old mechanical VW, Ford, Mazda, Chevrolet, Mitsubishi and etc.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Temp is around 20F this AM so I put the winter front on IBW before leaving the house. It still works.
JDSwan87
Black Swamp Thing
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2014
- Location
- Michigan near Toledo
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI, 5 speed Lagoon Blue Metallic(sold); 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon auto
Sure wish someone made a re-pop winter front for the MKIV Golf....
And Jetta.
The Cream Dolphin
Veteran Member
Finally got around to rewiring my golf hatch (got it right @Rrusse11 ) properly. I realized it did not work last time because the hatch lock happened to be gumming up as I was testing it, what a waste of an afternoon. But anyway, I fixed the latch, but the wire has been sitting there over a month fed through the door wire feed. pulled the card, spliced the wire, pulled the under steering column panels, spliced that end, and voila! Free entry into the hatch when the driver door is unlocked, locked when the driver door is. What a relief. But then putting the under column panels back on, I realized the wire was fed below the obd port support. There was no way it would live there without me eventually catching a toe on it. Sigh. Pulled the splices off, fed it the right way, spliced it again, put everything together, taped excess line out of the way, done. Success.
Also found a problem with RR caliper where the e brake cable attaches, I will read up on it and probably make another post for it.
Also found a problem with RR caliper where the e brake cable attaches, I will read up on it and probably make another post for it.
Rob Mayercik
Veteran Member
Back on this past Saturday (12/30/23, 491,35x miles):
- diesel purge injector cleaning
- oil and filter change
- new fuel filter
- new air filter (Mann, with foam pre-filter)
- blew out/cleaned snowscreen (yes, I still have it. No, I'm not planning to delete it).
Checked the tire tread a couple days prior, a little shy of 80,000 on them and they still measure 4/32". Probably going to squeeze a bit more out of them before replacing, so long as things don't get too snowy in the next couple months...
- diesel purge injector cleaning
- oil and filter change
- new fuel filter
- new air filter (Mann, with foam pre-filter)
- blew out/cleaned snowscreen (yes, I still have it. No, I'm not planning to delete it).
Checked the tire tread a couple days prior, a little shy of 80,000 on them and they still measure 4/32". Probably going to squeeze a bit more out of them before replacing, so long as things don't get too snowy in the next couple months...
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
My Golf horn has sounded like a whiny 10 year old for the last few years because one of the trumpets failed. Finally pulled the trigger on some "OEM" Hella replacements. Only thing OEM about them was the connector. The studs and nuts were not the same size. Had to use a fender washer (that was almost too thick) on each of the OEM brackets so the Hella nut had something to put pressure on. The OD of the nut faces were only a tad larger than the holes in the brackets on the car.
Figured while I was doing my fog light upgrade I'd swap them. They sound great, but advertised as an "OEM" replacement is kind of misleading. Really wish some of these companies could sort this stuff out so we don't have to go through the pain of trying to jerry-rig something to make them work.
Car might actually get noticed now if I need to be from all the people pay attention to their phones instead of driving.
Figured while I was doing my fog light upgrade I'd swap them. They sound great, but advertised as an "OEM" replacement is kind of misleading. Really wish some of these companies could sort this stuff out so we don't have to go through the pain of trying to jerry-rig something to make them work.
Car might actually get noticed now if I need to be from all the people pay attention to their phones instead of driving.
PakProtector
Top Post Dawg
Made a slow start on a timing belt replacement for the newest herd member( an '05 Golf ). Its age was giving me the shivers every time I had it running( it was original to the car ). Kit from IDP should arrive today. Conti upgrade was made. Next to track down some high-bolster seats, and maybe a Mk5 GTI steering wheel( no multi-function to worry about losing ).
Douglas
Douglas
wonneber
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2011
- Location
- Monroe, NY, USA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
If you want to get attention jury rig an old 6 volt Beatle horn with a relay and horn button to the dash.
I did it years ago. EAR PIERCING
It did last for years of low usage.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I've got a legit set of Kenworth air horns on my truck, if I really wanted to get attention I'd throw another big rig set on the car...If you want to get attention jury rig an old 6 volt Beatle horn with a relay and horn button to the dash.
I did it years ago. EAR PIERCING
It did last for years of low usage.
What are you running for a compressor?
Realized how bad the valve cover was leaking when I did the clutch, so today I swapped in a new one. Aftermarket with replaceable gasket.
I put a little dab of black silicone on the head where the cam caps rise up.
Had to make a tool for the bolt under the egr valve. Took a short 5mm 1/4” drive socket, and cut a small piece off a 5mm Allen key. Wrapped a little electrical tape to the bit so it stayed in the socket. Worked like a charm with a universal joint.
Torqued it to 7 ft lbs. seems way too light a spec, but it is correct. I’ll be checking to make sure it’s sealing properly.
Snapped a few pics of the cam while I had the cover off. Looks really good in there.
I put a little dab of black silicone on the head where the cam caps rise up.
Had to make a tool for the bolt under the egr valve. Took a short 5mm 1/4” drive socket, and cut a small piece off a 5mm Allen key. Wrapped a little electrical tape to the bit so it stayed in the socket. Worked like a charm with a universal joint.
Torqued it to 7 ft lbs. seems way too light a spec, but it is correct. I’ll be checking to make sure it’s sealing properly.
Snapped a few pics of the cam while I had the cover off. Looks really good in there.
Nice!!