What did you do to your MKIV today?

[burpod]

What hardware are you running? I have been wanting to do the same. Just really didn't want to mess with the clutch. Mileage is similar.

it's trivial to limit fuel in the tune to preserve clutch until you are ready to upgrade can't make guarantees of course, one would just have to use their judgement as to the power it's making and condition of current clutch then fiddle with a couple numbers to keep it at a level you think is safe.

 

[Zak99b5]

What hardware are you running? I have been wanting to do the same. Just really didn't want to mess with the clutch. Mileage is similar.

Only upgrade is .205 nozzles.

 

[Zak99b5]

Had a couple instances of smoke, so I had to check the intake for clogging to see if that might be the cause. PO had the egr cleaned at some point in her ownership, but it looked a bit dirty:

IMG_0645.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

Dirty egr

IMG_0649.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

More dirty egr

pulled it off (that front bolt on the underside for the exhaust flex pipe is a PIA) and looked at the intake:

IMG_0650.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

Intake

IMG_0651.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

Mani again

Really not too bad. I could easily see to the turn in the neck as it goes down toward the head. The carbon is pretty soft and crumbly, so I got the shop vac on it and knocked off the loose stuff right at the entry. Didn't want that falling off and going in the motor after reinstalling the egr.

Cleaned the EGR pretty well--it's tuned out now, so I didn't feel it needed to be 100%, plus I had way less brake clean than I thought it did.

IMG_0652.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

Cleaned egr

IMG_0653.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

More clean egr

Buttoned it all back together, and it started right up.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Today I traded my parts car mk4 for a Milwaukee 12v torque wrench. I didn't know they made those until I got that as an offer.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

pulled it off (that front bolt on the underside for the exhaust flex pipe is a PIA) and looked at the intake:

IMG_0650.jpeg

• Zak99b5
• Nov 25, 2023

Intake

Mine looked somewhat similar, but I just cleaned it all for the hell of it, and I had a manifold gasket I would not otherwise use, so why not? Also since I pulled the manifold, I disconnected the cooler only, then the manifold and it all pulled out connected still easily. Then separate the bits on the bench in the open.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Cleaned the inside of my windows. Fixed the hood latch. Fixed the ground battery terminal connection. Replaced the cover for the driver side door window/lock control. Looks better. Airbag light is on. Waiting for the parts.

 

[Nuje]

Today I traded my parts car mk4 for a Milwaukee 12v torque wrench. I didn't know they made those until I got that as an offer.

I had forgotten about those (model number 2466-20). I remember looking at it and considering putting it on the Xmas wish list a year or two ago and ultimately decided against it because I knew I'd really miss the 15° pivot that I have on my current Snap-on digital torque wrench. And it's a lot more compact than the powered head on that Milwaukee (looks like it shares the head of the ⅜" drive M12 - already in my arsenal, which I frequently can't use because of the size of the head). Being able to drive a fastener to the proper torque in one action, though, instead of "snug it up with power tool, then pull out torque wrench, swap the socket over, set the torque, and then tighten....I can definitely see the appeal there.

I hope you report back on your experiences with it because I will always need more M12/M18 products in my life.

 

[Rrusse11]

I've got the 18v Bauer (Harbor Freight) 3/8" drive impact. Maybe not the "everyday" pro reputation of the
Milwaukee brand, but it works for me. My guru laughed when I showed up with it, but ended up buying one
himself, lol.

 

[lost1wing]

Resealed the valve cover and changed the oil today. Found the driveshaft heat shield missing. Installed another one from the spare pile. Filled the EGR vent holes with rtv. At 395k, the cam looked perfect.

 

[Mozambiquer]

I had forgotten about those (model number 2466-20). I remember looking at it and considering putting it on the Xmas wish list a year or two ago and ultimately decided against it because I knew I'd really miss the 15° pivot that I have on my current Snap-on digital torque wrench. And it's a lot more compact than the powered head on that Milwaukee (looks like it shares the head of the ⅜" drive M12 - already in my arsenal, which I frequently can't use because of the size of the head). Being able to drive a fastener to the proper torque in one action, though, instead of "snug it up with power tool, then pull out torque wrench, swap the socket over, set the torque, and then tighten....I can definitely see the appeal there.

I hope you report back on your experiences with it because I will always need more M12/M18 products in my life.

Yeah, I will.
I just got a snap-on beam type 1/2" and a Matco 3/8" one recently. I'm quite curious how this one will work. I feel itll be useful for some of my line of work on semi trucks. Its pretty big and a bit bulky, but looks cool.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Tried again to check timing, but am at a loss on how it works with obdeleven. I followed a thread with instructions exactly but my car is not reading the same as the one mentioned. Any one else have obdeleven experience? I will not clog up this thread with details, but I will link one I made for it. https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/obdeleven-timing-help.531128/ I know VCDS is better, but I do not have a computer, or the knowledge to use one.

I also filled up and tossed some winter additive/cetane boost to hopefully help out.

 

[PakProtector]

I know VCDS is better, but I do not have a computer, or the knowledge to use one.

Hoping to see VCDS for use wid a phone. Is not like there is not computing power and storage available. However, you found the forum, and can post, do don't sell yourself short on VCDS...LOL

I have to look up the timing graph every time I want to see it. Beyond that, log delivered timing and specified timing( it changes all over the place for more than one reason ). If specified deviates from delivered, then you might want to examine things further.

Douglas

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

Hoping to see VCDS for use wid a phone. Is not like there is not computing power and storage available. However, you found the forum, and can post, do don't sell yourself short on VCDS...LOL

I have to look up the timing graph every time I want to see it. Beyond that, log delivered timing and specified timing( it changes all over the place for more than one reason ). If specified deviates from delivered, then you might want to examine things further.

Douglas

Would that have to be in basic settings though? From what I understand if you are not in basic settings, the ECU will be making adjustments, so it is not a true reading of timing.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Installed an after market steering wheel. Feels really nice. Put some liquid electric tape on a wire i patched.

 

[CanadianALH]

Installed an after market steering wheel. Feels really nice. Put some liquid electric tape on a wire i patched.

Please tell me it has an air bag lol.

 

[MORTAMIR]

Please tell me it has an air bag lol.

I mean. If thats what you want to hear. It has an airbag.

 

[CanadianALH]

I mean. If thats what you want to hear. It has an airbag.

Does it go *ding*

 

[burpod]

Would that have to be in basic settings though? From what I understand if you are not in basic settings, the ECU will be making adjustments, so it is not a true reading of timing.

you really need to be in basic settings seeing the pump graph to properly set timing. the ecu goes into a special program for that, obd11 i'm quite sure does not have that capability, only reading data from the ecu. if you can read spec/actual timing however, with a tune that doesn' thave too much advance at idle you can take an educated guess where it is

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

you really need to be in basic settings seeing the pump graph to properly set timing. the ecu goes into a special program for that, obd11 i'm quite sure does not have that capability, only reading data from the ecu. if you can read spec/actual timing however, with a tune that doesn' thave too much advance at idle you can take an educated guess where it is

OBDeleven does have a basic settings button, I cannot figure it out though. Dunno if other people have got it to work. Burpod that was my plan, if you do not mind helping me feel more confident with my logic. I am running stock, no tune. So I was going to look at measuring block 0̷0̷4, and see if specified meets actual, and what % N10̷8 is at. Because my understanding is - if it did match, but N10̷8 is at say, %60̷, it is advancing halfway up its capability, indicating it is retarded at basic settings. So without having basic settings, is it within reason to work towards having actual meet specified, with N10̷8 at its ~%2 base line? That is what I think makes sense in my head, but I am hoping you can weigh in. I have not looked at it yet on the scanner, I will wait for a day off to rip around and get her warmed up to look at that. But this is what I have scabbed together from many hours of reading many threads, and I am now convinced this is what is causing my long crank.

 

[burpod]

if car is warm and the intake are tmps are >20C, your spec idle timing should be .5BTDC. i can't remember the exact numbers but if you're above the blue line, you'll probalby see a numbers >.5BTDC, if you were at the green line in basic settings, i want to say you'd be seeing a "minimum" timing of more like 3.0BTDC atual timing at 900rpm. if you're halfway from blue to green, i think you'd be at something lke 2.0BTDC for idle for actual timing. if you're very close to the blue (a good place to be for stock), you will see actual timing be .5BTDC. not 100% on the exactness of those numbers, but should be relatively close

so what you coudl do is retard pump timing and slowly advance it until you start seeing actual timing numbers >.5. then back it out a tiny hair. but with spec timing being at .5BTDC, you won't know for sure if you went "too far". but unless you're going WOT to redline it's not really going to hurt anything, as it's just shifting the available window of timing and on a stock tune, it really won't matter if you're a little bit "retarded"

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

if car is warm and the intake are tmps are >20C, your spec idle timing should be .5BTDC. i can't remember the exact numbers but if you're above the blue line, you'll probalby see a numbers >.5BTDC, if you were at the green line in basic settings, i want to say you'd be seeing a "minimum" timing of more like 3.0BTDC atual timing at 900rpm. if you're halfway from blue to green, i think you'd be at something lke 2.0BTDC for idle for actual timing. if you're very close to the blue (a good place to be for stock), you will see actual timing be .5BTDC. not 100% on the exactness of those numbers, but should be relatively close

Awesome, that is very helpful. And is my logic on the N10̷8 right? Because if it is more than its base %2, it is advancing it, adjusting for retarded static timing as I understand. Because the whole idea of basic settings is to disable the N10̷8, getting true static timing. So if it is activated but correct .5BTDC I would advance it slightly because I would know it has to advance it to make it the right spec. so the timing would work when the car is running, ie ECU has power, but when starting unadjusted it will be retarded. Is this right?

 

[burpod]

Awesome, that is very helpful. And is my logic on the N10̷8 right? Because if it is more than its base %2, it is advancing it, adjusting for retarded static timing as I understand. Because the whole idea of basic settings is to disable the N10̷8, getting true static timing. So if it is activated but correct .5BTDC I would advance it slightly. Is this right?

you could also log IQ, rpm, spec timing, actual timing and do some low fuel, very low rpm driving and get an idea if pump timing is advanced or not by looking at those values.

you're missing the point a little bit about even messing with the pump timing - you want the pump timing to be set such that the tune can meet spec whenever it asks for it. so you take a log of the above values and see if that is true. if tune is requesting 1.0ATDC and it's not getting it, but rather getting 0.0 then the pump timing is too advanced for the tune - it's essentially overriding what the tune is requesting.. likewise you would want to check the upper rpm/WOT range to see if you're making the amount of advance it's asking for. if not, pump might need advancing. a good tune will have a timing map such that it can always be met given the right physical pump timing.

now on a stock tune, it might be beneficial (and depending on if egr has been deleted or not) to have the pump timing a little on the advanced side to "override" the very retarded timing for low IQ/lower rpm areas. you'd just have to test to see how the performance is one way or another, as well as mpgs.

as for setting pump timing on other tunes, it would really be under the direction of the tuner to specify the correct pump timing for their tune + fueling combo.... i could go on about that subject tho.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

you could also log IQ, rpm, spec timing, actual timing and do some low fuel, very low rpm driving and get an idea if pump timing is advanced or not by looking at those values.

you're missing the point a little bit about even messing with the pump timing - you want the pump timing to be set such that the tune can meet spec whenever it asks for it. so you take a log of the above values and see if that is true. if tune is requesting 1.0ATDC and it's not getting it, but rather getting 0.0 then the pump timing is too advanced for the tune - it's essentially overriding what the tune is requesting.. likewise you would want to check the upper rpm/WOT range to see if you're making the amount of advance it's asking for. if not, pump might need advancing. a good tune will have a timing map such that it can always be met given the right physical pump timing.

now on a stock tune, it might be beneficial (and depending on if egr has been deleted or not) to have the pump timing a little on the advanced side to "override" the very retarded timing for low IQ/lower rpm areas. you'd just have to test to see how the performance is one way or another, as well as mpgs.

as for setting pump timing on other tunes, it would really be under the direction of the tuner to specify the correct pump timing for their tune + fueling combo.... i could go on about that subject tho.

Thanks a lot for all this.

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

you could also log IQ, rpm, spec timing, actual timing and do some low fuel, very low rpm driving and get an idea if pump timing is advanced or not by looking at those values.

you're missing the point a little bit about even messing with the pump timing - you want the pump timing to be set such that the tune can meet spec whenever it asks for it. so you take a log of the above values and see if that is true. if tune is requesting 1.0ATDC and it's not getting it, but rather getting 0.0 then the pump timing is too advanced for the tune - it's essentially overriding what the tune is requesting.. likewise you would want to check the upper rpm/WOT range to see if you're making the amount of advance it's asking for. if not, pump might need advancing. a good tune will have a timing map such that it can always be met given the right physical pump timing.

now on a stock tune, it might be beneficial (and depending on if egr has been deleted or not) to have the pump timing a little on the advanced side to "override" the very retarded timing for low IQ/lower rpm areas. you'd just have to test to see how the performance is one way or another, as well as mpgs.

as for setting pump timing on other tunes, it would really be under the direction of the tuner to specify the correct pump timing for their tune + fueling combo.... i could go on about that subject tho.

If you do not mind one more question, what would I be looking for in those above fields that would indicate advanced, retarded, or on the green line?

Also, anuts first post here is where I got my idea of doing it without basic timing.

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/tdi-timing-revisited.240450/

 

[PakProtector]

Those three lines are just to show that the internal adjustment can meet the specified advance settings delivered in the OE calibration.

Douglas

 

[burpod]

If you do not mind one more question, what would I be looking for in those above fields that would indicate advanced, retarded, or on the green line?

Also, anuts first post here is where I got my idea of doing it without basic timing.

https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.php?threads/tdi-timing-revisited.240450/

if you see actual timing values that are more advanced than spec (this would be happening at lower rpms) on a consistent basis, then your pump is too advanced for the tune. you'd want to pay attention to low-mid IQ areas 1000-2000rpm. you'd then retard it a bit and then re-log. the pump timing mechanism isn't always perfect (and could be sticky too) so you need to look at enough of the numbers to see a consistent pattern. if you're more concerned about reaching full advance requested at high rpm/heavy fuel, you'd look to log those areas and see if pump isn't advanced enough to meet the spec.

but it's a difficult question to answer what is best, because it assumes the tune you're running is perfect, and optimized for your setup. for a stock tune, if you have egr deleted, that can change things. even if egr is present and working, the stock tune isn't necessarily optimal either. so a little extra advance down low rpm very likely a good thing. basically, if the tune is perfect, you want to see spec/actual timing values always match up both on the low rpm and high rpm ends

 

[The Cream Dolphin]

if you see actual timing values that are more advanced than spec (this would be happening at lower rpms) on a consistent basis, then your pump is too advanced for the tune. you'd want to pay attention to low-mid IQ areas 1000-2000rpm. you'd then retard it a bit and then re-log. the pump timing mechanism isn't always perfect (and could be sticky too) so you need to look at enough of the numbers to see a consistent pattern. if you're more concerned about reaching full advance requested at high rpm/heavy fuel, you'd look to log those areas and see if pump isn't advanced enough to meet the spec.

but it's a difficult question to answer what is best, because it assumes the tune you're running is perfect, and optimized for your setup. for a stock tune, if you have egr deleted, that can change things. even if egr is present and working, the stock tune isn't necessarily optimal either. so a little extra advance down low rpm very likely a good thing. basically, if the tune is perfect, you want to see spec/actual timing values always match up both on the low rpm and high rpm ends

This sounds great, thanks for all the time, I really appreciate it. This all makes sense, I think I am following along. If I were to try adjusting it my way, do you have any idea if that would be close to the green line, and/or do you think it would be somewhat safe? Understanding I am not trying to adjust for max power, FE, etc. just trying to work with the tools I have, and I AM NOT trying to put the blame of anything I do on you, just hoping for a bit of knowledge from someone who knows more. Regardless of tune, purely aiming for timing degrees, it seems anut using that method got close to the green, and that is all I am hoping to get. If I am totally off and misunderstanding/hoping for too much, just say so. I know I do not have the right tools, and would not have to ask any of this if I just had vcds, so I will not be upset if you just say it is a lot more than I think, and anuts car is not the same as mine. Thanks again, I do love this community, and everything it has to offer

 

[burpod]

This sounds great, thanks for all the time, I really appreciate it. This all makes sense, I think I am following along. If I were to try adjusting it my way, do you have any idea if that would be close to the green line, and/or do you think it would be somewhat safe? Understanding I am not trying to adjust for max power, FE, etc. just trying to work with the tools I have, and I AM NOT trying to put the blame of anything I do on you, just hoping for a bit of knowledge from someone who knows more. Regardless of tune, purely aiming for timing degrees, it seems anut using that method got close to the green, and that is all I am hoping to get. If I am totally off and misunderstanding/hoping for too much, just say so. I know I do not have the right tools, and would not have to ask any of this if I just had vcds, so I will not be upset if you just say it is a lot more than I think, and anuts car is not the same as mine. Thanks again, I do love this community, and everything it has to offer

responding to timing discussion in your obd11 thread

 

[BobnOH]

burpod knows way more than I about all this.
I've always used
Group 000 measuring blocks
From left to right
Engine idle speed: range 42 - 45 = 870-950
Start of injection: range 12 - 75 = 2 degrees ATDC - 3 degress BTDC
Unless your timing has been adapted, works just fine.

 

[JDSwan87]

Ordered new flywheel from IDP
Ordered clutch and pressure plate from ACT
Ordered new head unit and door speakers too