What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Zak99b5]

From TireRack:

A rear-wheel drive vehicle "pushes" the front axle's tires as they roll along the road. Tire rolling resistance causes a little drag resulting in rearward movement of the suspension arms against their bushings. Because of this, most rear-wheel drive vehicles use some positive toe-in to compensate for the movement, enabling the tires to run parallel to each other at speed.

Conversely, a front-wheel drive vehicle "pulls" the vehicle through the front axle, resulting in forward movement of the suspension arms against their bushings. Therefore most front-wheel drive vehicles use some negative toe-out to compensate for the movement, again enabling the tires to run parallel to each other at speed.

 

[JDSwan87]

Today I drove it... realized I'm just under 1/4 tank and have 620 miles on the trip meter. Glad to be back in a manual mkiv.

 

[J_dude]

Well shucks, I thought since I was swapping doors with my parts car I wouldn’t have to deal with a flaky driver door lock anymore, but the issue is worse now!
Before, with the old door, it would only lock if you pushed the little knob down manually, but would still unlock with the fob.
Now it won’t even unlock with the fob, have to do everything manually!
Also, if I hit lock on the fob, the other three doors lock and the little light on the driver door starts blinking, but I can open it without setting off the alarm.
I assume this is a microswitch issue?

All my other doors lock and unlock as they should though so that’s good lol.

 

[P2B]

I assume this is a microswitch issue?

Likely more than one issue, microswitchs and/or broken wires in the accordion between door and body.

 

[dieseldonato]

Whenever I'm at the junk yard next I plan to grab modules for all the doors and rebuild them in my spare time. I already replaced my drivers side module for the same reasons you did. Every time I opened the door the alarm would go off. Couple that with the range of my key fob being next to non existent made getting the alarm to stop a pain.

 

[J_dude]

Likely more than one issue, microswitchs and/or broken wires in the accordion between door and body.

You may be right about the harness, I had to swap the ones from my old doors over to these new ones because Monsoon stuff. Not sure why it previously would unlock but not lock if it was a broken wire though. Is there separate wires for lock and unlock?

 

[norbert77]

Does the vcds tool have a force regen option I can use on a 2007 Jeep grand Cherokee CRD?

 

[J_dude]

Another well shucks moment today.
Changed the ignition lock cylinder with the one from the parts car since mine was sticky at times, and the new one works smoothly while it’s out of the car but sticky when installed. Turns out the ignition housing/thing is sticky too.
So I went to grab that piece from my parts car as well and.. it’s different.
I guess there’s an extra cable that goes from the ignition housing to the shifter on the auto cars.
Dang.

 

[P2B]

Changed the GP harness on the wagon, old one had literally crumbled. Used solder seal connectors which was a bit fiddly but worked well. They seem to work better if you add a little paste flux. I staggered the joints which allowed the connections to fit inside the original sleeve, result looks OE

No GP codes afterward, but we shall see this winter...

 

[ts888]

When tomorrow is today, I will be going through all the wiring to the IP and all around the engine compartment trying to make the P1354 and P1563 go away, because I would rather not buy an IP. With 287k miles, that might be optimistic, but it's time I'm willing to invest.

 

[PakProtector]

Changed the GP harness on the wagon, old one had literally crumbled. Used solder seal connectors which was a bit fiddly but worked well. They seem to work better if you add a little paste flux. I staggered the joints which allowed the connections to fit inside the original sleeve, result looks OE

No GP codes afterward, but we shall see this winter...

Did that same staggered splice deal, but just used goo-loaded shrink tube... Well-squeezed butt connectors are not much of an issue if you seal them and keep the bending away from them.

Douglas

 

[Zak99b5]

On my daughter's 05 Golf, finally found the power steering fluid leak.

Return hose was rusty and seeping at the bend where it's clamped, but most of the hard line looked pretty janky.

FLAPS actually had it in stock, so no need to wait for delivery, and she needs her car for work (and I wanted it out of my driveway).

No. 1 son and his buddy came over to help, and the job actually wasn't too bad. I thought it would be worse because I had a hell of a time doing the pressure line banjo fitting to the rack on my car, and it he return is harder to access. But the extra hands helped a lot.

Flushed all the old fluid out for new, bled it, and took it on a test drive. Steering worked great, but I heard the groan of what is likely the front right wheel bearing......

 

[ts888]

Does the vcds tool have a force regen option I can use on a 2007 Jeep grand Cherokee CRD?

No, it won't recognize the engine control software.

 

[hey_allen]

I chased down a glow plug fault that had been bugging me, because the plugs all tested in tolerance with a meter.

It turned out that when I replaced my plug harness the latest time, and had retrofitted to the unpluggable connectors, (apparently from the late 90s cars?) I'd not managed to seat one of the wires fully into the connector housing and one of the pins backed out slightly.

Seating the pin in the connector buddy eliminated an annoying GP fault I'd been ignoring for part of the summer...

 

[ts888]

Saturday afternoon I started chasing my recurring IQ limit (P1563) and modulating piston sensor (P1354) faults. I unclipped the electrical connectors on the front of the engine for the IP, 3rd injector and the crank position sensor. I inspected the harnesses in both directions from the plugs, no sign of broken wires, degraded insulation or other badness. I coated the pins and sockets in the connectors with DeoxIT and gave each plug several cycles of connect and release because in my head that equates to scraping off corrosion and improving the connection (there is some validity -- I've brought older Sprinters back to life by pulling and re-inserting fuses.)

Afterward I hooked up the VCDS, cleared the faults and took a look at the data. IQ at cold and warm idle is now comfortably in range, as is the piston position. Could it be that easy? Today I'm going for a longish drive to see how it works. The IQ fault usually happens at idle (IQ goes below the lower limit), but the piston fault hits at higher speeds, and higher temps. It was very bad last week when temps were over 100, today we're shrouded in smoke and the high is forecast at 80, so I may not see comparable conditions for a while.

EDIT: Went for a 15 mile drive. Ran well the whole way. When I got back the IQ was lower at idle, still above the lower limit but just. Mod piston voltage was still well in the safe zone. I wonder if my perished under hood fuel lines which constantly have air in them are causing low fuel level in the IP at idle, leading to a bit of starvation? Replacing them is high on the to-do list either way. I ordered the filter-to-pump section from IDParts today. I'll make up the other side from bulk hose and reuse the qd fittings.

 

[Zak99b5]

Checked daughter's wheel bearings to find the source of the groan. couldnt find play in any of them.

Took it on another test drive, and rechecked if the sound changed with turns. The growl is there in straight ahead driving. Seems basically the same on a left turn, and it lessens when turning to the right (turning steering wheel back and forth driving over 30 on an empty road).

One other thing I did note was that it seemed like her 01M wouldn’t upshift to either 3rd or 4th. Revs seemed too high for what I was driving. But I didn’t have a chance to get it to a higher speed road to check, and the Vag Com computer's battery was dead. I did the fuzzy logic reset (koeo press & hold gas pedal turn key off). She didn’t notice anything unusual driving it home.

Wednesday I’ll be able to look further into it. There’s no MIL, and a drip I saw while doing her power steering line makes me think I should check her differential level.

 

[jmodge]

Checked daughter's wheel bearings to find the source of the groan. couldnt find play in any of them.

If you can get the car securely off the ground where you can get it to run in 5th gear, bearing noise shows up.

Took it on another test drive, and rechecked if the sound changed with turns. The growl is there in straight ahead driving. Seems basically the same on a left turn, and it lessens when turning to the right (turning steering wheel back and forth driving over 30 on an empty road).

One other thing I did note was that it seemed like her 01M wouldn’t upshift to either 3rd or 4th. Revs seemed too high for what I was driving. But I didn’t have a chance to get it to a higher speed road to check, and the Vag Com computer's battery was dead. I did the fuzzy logic reset (koeo press & hold gas pedal turn key off). She didn’t notice anything unusual driving it home.

Wednesday I’ll be able to look further into it. There’s no MIL, and a drip I saw while doing her power steering line makes me think I should check her differential level.

 

[jmodge]

Not sure how my comment ended up in the middle.....more needed

 

[PakProtector]

Not sure how my comment ended up in the middle.....more needed

And it is an O1M, so there are only 4 gears...

Douglas

 

[jmodge]

And it is an O1M, so there are only 4 gears...

Douglas

Oops, can’t I count reverse?

 

[J_dude]

@Zak99b5 did you try this?
Jack up a wheel in such a way that the suspension is still loaded, then grab the coil spring and spin the wheel. Any bearing noise/vibration will be felt in the spring.
I learned that from somebody here (can’t remember who), and figured out which rear bearing was bad by doing that, since there was no play but a bad growl around 70-80 km/h.

 

[PakProtector]

Oops, can’t I count reverse?

BRILLIANT! Cheapest 6sp upgrade EVER!

Douglas

 

[ts888]

I forgot the best thing I did Saturday. I removed the bonked driver side mirror, took it apart, got it all back together properly. Then I sealed the seam along the back with siligoo.

No more headache inducing whistle when the window is down! It's the little things...

 

[Zak99b5]

@Zak99b5 did you try this?
Jack up a wheel in such a way that the suspension is still loaded, then grab the coil spring and spin the wheel. Any bearing noise/vibration will be felt in the spring.
I learned that from somebody here (can’t remember who), and figured out which rear bearing was bad by doing that, since there was no play but a bad growl around 70-80 km/h.

I’ll be checking it further later today. This might get its own thread.

 

[SilverGhost]

Maybe a jack under the ball joint or that round hole about half way up the control arm? I would do both sides, maybe if you have short jack stands, to level it out.

Jason

 

[norbert77]

Checked daughter's wheel bearings to find the source of the groan. couldnt find play in any of them.

Took it on another test drive, and rechecked if the sound changed with turns. The growl is there in straight ahead driving. Seems basically the same on a left turn, and it lessens when turning to the right (turning steering wheel back and forth driving over 30 on an empty road).

One other thing I did note was that it seemed like her 01M wouldn’t upshift to either 3rd or 4th. Revs seemed too high for what I was driving. But I didn’t have a chance to get it to a higher speed road to check, and the Vag Com computer's battery was dead. I did the fuzzy logic reset (koeo press & hold gas pedal turn key off). She didn’t notice anything unusual driving it home.

Wednesday I’ll be able to look further into it. There’s no MIL, and a drip I saw while doing her power steering line makes me think I should check her differential level.

I had a wheel bearing like that. Couldn’t figure which one, so I was gonna replace both. But first I drove with the backseat down, and I realized it was the right rear bearing. The sound deadening made it hard to figure out

 

[J_dude]

Maybe a jack under the ball joint or that round hole about half way up the control arm? I would do both sides, maybe if you have short jack stands, to level it out.

Jason

Not sure if having it level matters, when I checked/diagnosed my rears I did one side at a time.
Honestly, not sure if having weight on it is even necessary, that’s just how I read to check it, and I haven’t tried it any other way yet.

 

[P2B]

A screwdriver stethoscope on the bearing cap while spinning the wheel works well for finding noisy rear bearings.

 

[Zak99b5]

I do have a mechanic's stethoscope.

I have heard of the “spring” method and don’t think it needs loaded to work.

She couldn’t bring it by yesterday, but when she does, I’ll pull the Speedo gear and check the diff level. Then a road test and more spinning & listening.

 

[csstevej]

Lol ….. ahhhh a fathers work is never done…… I have to change youngest daughters LH ABS sensor hopefully today…