What did you do to your MKIV today?

[mjydrafter]

I felt like it was time to do a timing belt. Not close on mileage, but getting up there year wise.

Feeling kind of like I dodged a bullet.

Did a full service on it, cabin, engine air, oil filters, and oil. And all that goes with the TB. Checked the Torsion value before I started this morning, it was +.5. Checked it when I finished and it was -.5. Not bad and I may let it ride and see how it runs for a while at that.

Long day though. Had to help my son fix his ALHs rear brake, he had a bad caliper pin, right in the middle of my fun. Did the rear brakes on my wife's Passat (gas) boo last night. I have a timing belt for it as well for sometime in the next little while.

 

[PakProtector]

Exact nature of this bullet you dodged?

Douglas

 

[JDSwan87]

Exact nature of this bullet you dodged?

Douglas

Looks like a leaky water pump maybe? Crud below the crank sprocket had a pink tint to it...

 

[PakProtector]

Looks like a leaky water pump maybe? Crud below the crank sprocket had a pink tint to it...

OK, that could be...

In the 'what did I do', I replaced the rock-holed condenser on the '00 Jetta and put some R134 back in. The donor car had a plastic guard in the area that got damaged on the original. Well, previous, 'cause the original got seriously wrecked in an impact.

Douglas

 

[454k30]

Today I installed an eBay SMIC. Went in pretty easily as the bracket placement and alignment to the stock boost pipes was close enough. Had to do some trimming on the air duct and interior bumper plastic. Not perfect but this car is no show car.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

Referring to the head bolt/stud/gasket discussion a few posts back...

I highly recommend having the block and head machined when replacing the gasket. The original gasket leaves impressions in the respective surfaces which will lower the crush/squeeze on the new gasket, regardless of studs or bolts.

Swapping them one at a time doesn't scare me at all as long as there are no signs of head gasket leakage at that time. Easy to do and nothing to loose in my opinion.

Below picture is the block after cleaning (and before machining) showing the groove left by the head gasket.

Below picture is the cylinder head, before cleaning, with a similar groove

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

As to what I did to my MkIV today - Drove it again for the first time since ~April. Had to charge the battery, but fired right up and drove it 250 miles.

 

[dieseldonato]

Referring to the head bolt/stud/gasket discussion a few posts back...

I highly recommend having the block and head machined when replacing the gasket. The original gasket leaves impressions in the respective surfaces which will lower the crush/squeeze on the new gasket, regardless of studs or bolts.

Swapping them one at a time doesn't scare me at all as long as there are no signs of head gasket leakage at that time. Easy to do and nothing to loose in my opinion.

Below picture is the block after cleaning (and before machining) showing the groove left by the head gasket.

Below picture is the cylinder head, before cleaning, with a similar groove

We called that fretting at the machine shop, basically from the head, gasket and block moving. (quivering may be a better term) I would call it normal from what I've seen on high hour/ millage engines.

 

[dieseldonato]

Fitted a stage one bfi center engine mount to the tdi this morning. the oe rubber mount was degraded badly when I pulled it out. Innitial running it doesn't seem to transmit too much more vibration into the cabin area. I'll know better when I leave for work here shortly.

 

[pkhoury]

While trying to chase down an alignment issue, I bit the bullet and bought an OEM subframe, OEM left front wheel knuckle, new bearing and new hub. Started just before 1am and finished my test drive around 5:45am. No way in hell would I work during the day when it's been 104-109 outside. I think it was 91 degrees when I started working at 1am!

Anyways, I found the left front ball joint had a pretty badly torn boot. The right front was loose. Not sure how the hell it was loose, but it had A LOT of play. I had some spares, so I just replaced both (rather than tightening the right). Only torqued the subframe to 74 ft lbs, since I know when I get it aligned, they're going to fiddle with it like always, and then I'll do the TTY quarter turn (possibly there, since they've let me go underneath the car there before). Brakes pads are also looking fantastic after about 60K-ish miles.

So in turn - no more clunking noises when turning, backing up, etc. Hopefully my alignment numbers look a lot better as a result.

 

[Zak99b5]

It’s a rare alignment job where they are willing to shift a subframe. Firestone charges for a 4 wheel alignment but will only touch the tie rod ends for toe.

Luckily, there is a shop in town here that would actually do it correctly. And, they charge per axle.

 

[BobnOH]

When I get aligned, I'm expecting all the components to be checked. There is very limited actual adjustments.

 

[pkhoury]

It’s a rare alignment job where they are willing to shift a subframe. Firestone charges for a 4 wheel alignment but will only touch the tie rod ends for toe.

Luckily, there is a shop in town here that would actually do it correctly. And, they charge per axle.

This shop damn near always seems to move the subframe a few hairs to get things right.

The test drive did feel a lot better, so I'm curious to see what the alignment numbers turn up.

 

[dieseldonato]

Bit of feedback on the bfi stage 1 dog bone. Minimal extra vibration noticed in the cabin, although it does seem I have a bit of an exhaust rattle, which I'll look into later. My mirror is pretty loose and has always shaken around a bit, that seems just a tad worse. Ill be replacing it the next time i get to a junk yard. The biggest thing I've noticed is it shifts better and doesn't jump with high rpm/fast shifts between gears. I can't discern if this is from my stock dog bone being shot and letting the engine and trans rotate too much or just an overall improvement. At any rate it seems better. Pulling out seems smoother as well. I'm a bit hesitant to spend the money for the other mounts, but I may get the stage 1 engine and trans mounts eventually.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

I've all of them from BFI and echo your experience...

 

[hey_allen]

My mirror is pretty loose and has always shaken around a bit, that seems just a tad worse. Ill be replacing it the next time i get to a junk yard.

For whatever it's worth, you might try hooking something over the edge of the mirror glass and lightly tug around it's edges.

Mine was only held in by a tiny remaining strip of adhesive on the top edge, which gave up as soon as I lightly tugged at the glass.

I ended up reattaching it with some Gorilla picture hangers tape. (The stuff the Chinese vendors are marketing as alien tape.)

Is been a couple of years and a few thousand miles since that repair, with no issues.

 

[dieseldonato]

For whatever it's worth, you might try hooking something over the edge of the mirror glass and lightly tug around it's edges.

Mine was only held in by a tiny remaining strip of adhesive on the top edge, which gave up as soon as I lightly tugged at the glass.

I ended up reattaching it with some Gorilla picture hangers tape. (The stuff the Chinese vendors are marketing as alien tape.)

Is been a couple of years and a few thousand miles since that repair, with no issues.

Mine is loose on the ball socket, not the glass in the mirror. Sorry should have been more clear.

 

[pkhoury]

What did I do to my mk4? Got an alignment, and on the way way there, my first ever speeding citation in Texas. Not bad for not having got an actual citation in 13 years. Thankfully, I learned that it's fairly easy to get dismissed with a defensive driving course online. Best part? He pulled not just me over, but the guy next to me (doing 65 in a 55). Note to self - take the interstate next time. Several sheriff's deputies and DPS told me, off the record, that 85mph gets a warning and 90 gets a ticket (speed limit is mostly 75).


I'm thinking of adding custom shims to the rear to get the rear fixed. A friend suggested that. Also suggested moving the subframe towards the passenger side, but I'm not easily able to jack the car just with the pinchwelds (unless I get another hydraulic jack). That said - could replacing the right side knuckle help? I noticed a BIG improvement with the new subframe and left knuckle before even doing the alignment. Both knuckles came from the junkyard, so I question whether any of it is bent somehow. Also noticed while driving home, the car wants to steer slightly to the right now, if I loosen my grip on the wheel (when it's safe). Before the alignment, it was mostly aiming straight after changing components.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Ticketed for 10 over? That sounds like someone needing revenue to me. I was recently pulled over on the state highway I commute on (I was late for an appt., isn't that always the way?), doing 77 in a 60 in the breakdown lane, which is legal at peak traffic times. Got a warning from a very polite state trooper. Sometimes I appreciate being old.

That alignment looks fine. I'm surprised the car pulls, it shouldn't if those measurements are accurate. I think I've had maybe 1 or 2 TDIs where the rear axle was in spec. If it's reasonably close (which yours is) I don't worry about it. I'd suggest driving it a bit and then have the measurements checked again. Maybe the toe moved a bit after the alignment.

 

[pkhoury]

Ticketed for 10 over? That sounds like someone needing revenue to me. I was recently pulled over on the state highway I commute on (I was late for an appt., isn't that always the way?), doing 77 in a 60 in the breakdown lane, which is legal at peak traffic times. Got a warning from a very polite state trooper. Sometimes I appreciate being old.

That alignment looks fine. I'm surprised the car pulls, it shouldn't if those measurements are accurate. I think I've had maybe 1 or 2 TDIs where the rear axle was in spec. If it's reasonably close (which yours is) I don't worry about it. I'd suggest driving it a bit and then have the measurements checked again. Maybe the toe moved a bit after the alignment.

I actually asked this prick for a warning, and he seemed surprised. I've had warnings before from other agencies, but this one is known for speed traps. I actually avoid the state highway that runs through this town for this very reason.

Good to know my alignment isn't that bad otherwise. It wasn't good before I replaced things; my left front wheel has been wearing a lot more than the other three.

 

[dieseldonato]

The saying around here goes "9 you're fine 10 you're mine. " the cops pretty much live by it. Depending on where you're driving it can be quite different. Been on 65mph roads and 80mph was just barely keeping up with the slow traffic and the cops wouldn't pull out.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Moved my son's MKIV Golf, which has been sitting at my house, and the low coolant light came on. Found a steady drip from the radiator. Removed the belly pan and grille, and dosed the bolts that hold the bumper with PB Blaster. That bumper has been on there for a long time.

 

[SilverGhost]

What did I do to my mk4? Got an alignment, and on the way way there, my first ever speeding citation in Texas. Not bad for not having got an actual citation in 13 years. Thankfully, I learned that it's fairly easy to get dismissed with a defensive driving course online. Best part? He pulled not just me over, but the guy next to me (doing 65 in a 55). Note to self - take the interstate next time. Several sheriff's deputies and DPS told me, off the record, that 85mph gets a warning and 90 gets a ticket (speed limit is mostly 75).


I'm thinking of adding custom shims to the rear to get the rear fixed. A friend suggested that. Also suggested moving the subframe towards the passenger side, but I'm not easily able to jack the car just with the pinchwelds (unless I get another hydraulic jack). That said - could replacing the right side knuckle help? I noticed a BIG improvement with the new subframe and left knuckle before even doing the alignment. Both knuckles came from the junkyard, so I question whether any of it is bent somehow. Also noticed while driving home, the car wants to steer slightly to the right now, if I loosen my grip on the wheel (when it's safe). Before the alignment, it was mostly aiming straight after changing components.

What the heck kind of alignment was that??? Over a degree of cross camber - we have less cross camber cause substantial pull. And why did you go from massive toe in to slight toe out?

Toe out makes for sharper turn in (term?) for auto cross while being "squirrelly" normal driving on the highway. Toe in tends to be more neutral and self centering but takes more effort to turn in during spirited driving.

I always use the Styrofoam coffee cup example for camber. Negative camber is like bottom of cup towards middle, positive is like bottom of cup to outside of car. Roll the cup and see which way it curves - that's generally which way car will pull/drift. Bigger number generally wins.

Caster is easy - think of a chopper Harley as positive caster and front wheels of shopping buggy as negative caster. The self centering of positive caster will not "pull" but will lead other wise neutral alignment to center and slightly to the more positive caster.

For this I have to ask what is FUBAR that you have positive camber. I would check to see if the strut has a bow in it. That common around here when people hit curb or center median. Knuckle is a lot stronger so strut usually bends first. Toe is pretty close, but my preference would be +0.2 instead of -0.2. That will make it tend to track straight and require less constant attention and steering correction.

Looks like rear beam got a smack and bent slightly. Probably a couple of shims for bearing hub to correct that. And you can fix the thrust angle at the same time if the mounts won't shift enough to straighten the rear toe up.

It's been a few years since my MkIV left us, but I would not settle with those alignment numbers.

Jason

 

[noob_tl]

Just pointing out that his toe is -0.02 not -0.2

 

[Zak99b5]

What the heck kind of alignment was that??? Over a degree of cross camber - we have less cross camber cause substantial pull. And why did you go from massive toe in to slight toe out?

Toe out makes for sharper turn in (term?) for auto cross while being "squirrelly" normal driving on the highway. Toe in tends to be more neutral and self centering but takes more effort to turn in during spirited driving.

I always use the Styrofoam coffee cup example for camber. Negative camber is like bottom of cup towards middle, positive is like bottom of cup to outside of car. Roll the cup and see which way it curves - that's generally which way car will pull/drift. Bigger number generally wins.

Caster is easy - think of a chopper Harley as positive caster and front wheels of shopping buggy as negative caster. The self centering of positive caster will not "pull" but will lead other wise neutral alignment to center and slightly to the more positive caster.

For this I have to ask what is FUBAR that you have positive camber. I would check to see if the strut has a bow in it. That common around here when people hit curb or center median. Knuckle is a lot stronger so strut usually bends first. Toe is pretty close, but my preference would be +0.2 instead of -0.2. That will make it tend to track straight and require less constant attention and steering correction.

Looks like rear beam got a smack and bent slightly. Probably a couple of shims for bearing hub to correct that. And you can fix the thrust angle at the same time if the mounts won't shift enough to straighten the rear toe up.

It's been a few years since my MkIV left us, but I would not settle with those alignment numbers.

Jason

Install of the new subframe probably something to do with the cross camber. Needs shifted to the left to equalize it between the front wheels.

 

[J_dude]

Well things are coming along nicely, suspension is all done, just need to do the final “loaded” torque on ramps, but I will have to borrow my buddy’s fancy torque wrench, as mine doesn’t go low enough.
Finished swapping doors and leather seats from my parts car, will fine-tune the door adjustments when I get the car out of the shop, and then I can put the “new” fenders and bumper from the parts car on.
Also started it today, for the first time since last fall I think, and did the break-in on the Colt cam and lifters. It’s running good and I didn’t even need to tweak the injection timing!
I think it’s starting better too since I cleaned the grounds under the battery.
Sure will be nice to have a car again!

 

[SilverGhost]

Just pointing out that his toe is -0.02 not -0.2

True, but FWD toes out when power is applied, more so when car is accelerating, but even when hold a constant speed. So that becomes -.04 or even -.1. That's why spec is slightly toed in, to counter act normal toe out during load and acceleration. The end goal is neutral toe at operation condition.

Jason

 

[SilverGhost]

Install of the new subframe probably something to do with the cross camber. Needs shifted to the left to equalize it between the front wheels.

If this was a MkV or VI I would agree some of that, but my experience with MkIV is there is not much wiggle room shifting sub-frame to balance that amount of cross camber. I would obviously try first, but I still think there is more tweaked suspension parts in there causing that camber.

Jason

 

[Zak99b5]

True, but FWD toes out when power is applied, more so when car is accelerating, but even when hold a constant speed. So that becomes -.04 or even -.1. That's why spec is slightly toed in, to counter act normal toe out during load and acceleration. The end goal is neutral toe at operation condition.

Jason

I thought RWD toes out up front under acceleration while FWD toes in.

 

[03TDICommuter]

I thought RWD toes out up front under acceleration while FWD toes in.

Someone correct me if I have this wrong. Mentally I picture the tires pulling the lower control arms forward. Since the tie rod ends are behind the tire, if the knuckle moves forward, the tie rods will rotate the knuckles outward at the front, so toe out under acceleration.

Other than control arm movement from bushing deflection, is there another reason why toe would change? (asking the group out loud)