The short cable between the module and outer handle needs adjusting - sounds like it needs to be one or two notches tighter.I replaced driver door lock module with a new vw one. It works as expected…Except when I pull outer handle it doesn’t open fully, the door must be pulled, pushed in and pulled again before it’ll open. It only does this on first unlock, after that it works normally.
with The old module I had to punch the door handle before pulling
I don't think it matters very much.See if this video will helpI replaced driver door lock module with a new vw one. It works as expected…Except when I pull outer handle it doesn’t open fully, the door must be pulled, pushed in and pulled again before it’ll open. It only does this on first unlock, after that it works normally.
with The old module I had to punch the door handle before pulling
You're doing it the hard wayYesterday on #2 son's 01 Tdi we replaced his front struts. His car was sitting very low, and he had big gaps at the strut towers.
Since he doesn’t have a lot of money and I still had the Moog quick struts in the shed i took off my car after about a year, we decided to use those.
Drivers side went fine. Of course it did. Passenger side had same fun in store for us.
When I had changed the suspension twice years ago on my GTi, I used a spring Compressor with the strut still on the car to get them in and out. When I installed the Moogs on my car and when I replaced those with the Konis and SofSports, both times on the passenger side I just disco'd the TRE, which allowed me to rotate the knuckle forward enough to r&r the struts. No messing with the ball joint or half shaft, no spring compressor.
Well, this car was having none of that. Just could not get the knuckle to rotate forward to slip the strut out. Tried compressing the spring some to see if that would give us clearance, but no dice. Removed the three ball joint bolts, but that didn’t help. Tried loosening the outer drive axle nut to pull the knuckle out and away, but could not break it loose in the air. Tried to put the tire on to drop it, but now the spring compressor screws were in the friggin' way. Finally, I just tightened down the compressors all they way, removed the shouldered strut nut, popped off the mount, and finally got the damned thing out.
The struts were original to the car, put on in 03/01. Rusty as all get out, and both springs were broken.
[GALLE RY=media, 154436][/GALLERY]
HA! Did that in front of a customer one Friday evening. SAAB 900 Turbo, all 4 quarts wound up on the floor( it is a substantial puddle ). 'Just a quick oil change before we close'...LOL It took longer to clean up properly than the whole job should have taken if I had not missed the drain plug.
I remember doing an oil change on a family members 88 Ranger and while the oil change went well, the hood closing did not. Apparently the hood needed to be SLAMMED in order to latch. I closed it firmly (not enough) and it flew up after hitting a bump at 45mph. That was fun...
Don't feel badly about that. I almost started filling my son's MKIV with oil last Saturday and just in time rememberd I hadn't put the drain plug back. And that has to be at least the 100th oil change I've done on a MKIV.
I have also had a tire do that once, I think it was fairly old. Was a light truck tire in use on a stock trailer. Definitely unusual though.
Nothing duct tape and fix-a-flat couldn't handle, but I didn't have either.Ahhh ….just patch it and keep trucking…….
JK…… wow !
Hmm, that makes sense. I was on the return leg of a trip from Prescott to Staten Island when this happened. It might have developed a slow leak I didn't catch.
You mean, something like this?
