VW changed the connector from early designs with the metal clip to later version all plastic, but the compressor is basically the same. So some after market places sell one version with an adaptor to fit older cars.<clipped>
I also found this other part and I don't know if this came with the compressor as some sort of adapter or what, but I have no idea if this even goes to the Jettas. Anyone have an idea what this is? Tried to read and search the number on the molding but got nothing.
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G28 usually fails hot - get it nice and toasty, then ohm it out.Not mine and not a diesel, but r&r’d the crank position sensor on his 03 2.0 Golf.
His engine just died while driving a couple days ago. He was able to restart it and get home. Yesterday same thing happened, and he came over with it to scan with VCDS. I was thinking ignition switch, but he had two codes for G28.
It was a grimy mess to pull the sensor out, but finally removed it and installed the new one I picked up at NAPA on my way home from work. Car started right up. All the wiring leading to the plug looked a-ok.
For shots & goggles i ohmed out the old sensor, which of course tested fine. But I expected that as the sensor hadn’t yet failed completely.
I'm facing a car with no A/C either (low/no pressure in the lines), so just curious how you did that? Did you do the whole vacuum of the system for an hour or whatever and then put in the refrigerant? Or just plugged in a can of R134a (or R12?) and dumped the contents?I tried recharging the air conditioning today. I had assumed the whole system was buggered now for like 3 years. Charged it and now it blows ice cold
When I cleaned up my parking brake to free it up, I couldn't see how to get the rubber boot off the shaft. So I just stuck a pick down between the boot and the shaft and scraped around a bit and sprayed Kroil in there to free it up.E-brake wasn’t holding , took a look and found rh lever wouldn’t move.
Tapped with hammer but barely moved. Got the cable off and still wouldn’t move.
Removed lever and destroyed the shaft seal trying to get it out , rubber came out but the steel in the rubber remained in the housing. Used a small flathead screwdriver and tapped side in till broke loose. It was filled with corrosion.
Used a pick to clean out corrosion and silicone spray and worked shaft back and forth to loosen it up.
I had a seized caliper that I pulled the seal out intact , greased up the inside along with the shaft , reinstalled seal , lever and spring and works beautifully….30 minutes of my time and not a dime spent…..priceless…..
I had a spare caliper that was seized . I had shredded the one on the car.When I cleaned up my parking brake to free it up, I couldn't see how to get the rubber boot off the shaft. So I just stuck a pick down between the boot and the shaft and scraped around a bit and sprayed Kroil in there to free it up.
I did order new calipers to swap in, but I'm planning on rebuilding the ones I take off so I have spares. Any tips on how to remove that rubber piece?
Great--thanks. I actually found a good video of how to rebuild the rear calipers on youtube.I had a spare caliper that was seized . I had shredded the one on the car.
I used needle nose pliers and grabbed as much of the seal as possible and kind of rolled it towards the shaft. I worked it around and it popped off…that was on the spare one I had…easier to look at. I thought it was all rubber but when I got it out I realized that it was a metal cup encased in rubber.
Once I got most of the rubber out with a pick and needle nose pliers, I scraped around the edge and found the metal cup .
I then used a small common screw driver and tapped the edge toward the shaft in two places next to each other and the seal popped out.
Cleaned the rest of the corrosion up and freed shaft up and used some wheel bearing grease.
The seal was packed with more grease and pushed in with a screw driver.
I believe that seal comes in a rebuilding kit.
I did one years ago .
Just dumped in a can. No idea how long it will last but for now it does.I'm facing a car with no A/C either (low/no pressure in the lines), so just curious how you did that? Did you do the whole vacuum of the system for an hour or whatever and then put in the refrigerant? Or just plugged in a can of R134a (or R12?) and dumped the contents?
It's an expansion valve system - the low side pressure is always the same and the high side pressure is outside temperature dependent (assuming nothing is broken).do you check pressures before and after? curious not critical.
Admittedly I didn't know what I was doing. Hooked a can up and it went to like 50psi. Took can off. Started car for 5 mins blowing full ac. Then shut down and check and it read 80. First time I ever recharged an ac system10 psi before, 80 after. Turns out I filled it a bit much I think
Cool I will check out the calipers for that after I remove them. New calipers should come today, so I'll do that tomorrow.Zak check the number on the caliper…. There are 2 different size pistons……it’s on the round part of the casting where the piston is housed . I know one is 38…. Can’t remember if other is higher or lower.
They make two different kits.