What did you do to your MKIV today?

[benIV]

Won’t let me view pics.

sorry, fixed.

 

[Nuje]

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• benIV
• Today at 5:18 PM

Adapter for #3 injector wire....rectangular to D-shaped (?).

 

[hey_allen]

Adapter for #3 injector wire....rectangular to D-shaped (?).

I think it might work for that, but I received one with my ac compressor as well.

 

[P2B]

Also ABS sensors, pretty much all 2-wire connectors on the car.

 

[gmenounos]

Removed the Westfalia euro hitch from the wagon (which I'm getting rid of) so that I can install it in the Golf. While I had the tail lights off, I replaced them with some euro ocean lights that I had bought a while back but never installed.

 

[SilverGhost]

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I also found this other part and I don't know if this came with the compressor as some sort of adapter or what, but I have no idea if this even goes to the Jettas. Anyone have an idea what this is? Tried to read and search the number on the molding but got nothing.

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VW changed the connector from early designs with the metal clip to later version all plastic, but the compressor is basically the same. So some after market places sell one version with an adaptor to fit older cars.

Jason

 

[Zak99b5]

Not mine and not a diesel, but r&r’d the crank position sensor on his 03 2.0 Golf.

His engine just died while driving a couple days ago. He was able to restart it and get home. Yesterday same thing happened, and he came over with it to scan with VCDS. I was thinking ignition switch, but he had two codes for G28.

It was a grimy mess to pull the sensor out, but finally removed it and installed the new one I picked up at NAPA on my way home from work. Car started right up. All the wiring leading to the plug looked a-ok.

For shots & goggles i ohmed out the old sensor, which of course tested fine. But I expected that as the sensor hadn’t yet failed completely.

 

[Powder Hound]

Refreshed all the front end bushings on the Y2K Golf. Struts are Koni and doing fine. In trying to refurbish the roll bar link bushings, one broke (the link broke) so all is finished except installing the new links that are yet to come.

Tomorrow I get to start on the air conditioning. I will be replacing the compressor, condenser, receiver/dryer, and the valve. I won't replace the evaporator; I will just flush it and all the lines. The evaporator is much too big a PIA so I'll take my chances with a thorough flush. Wish me luck!

Cheers,

PH

 

[dieseldonato]

While back I did the diesel geek short throw shift kit, and ordered all the shifter bushings with it. Finally got sick of all the slop in the shifter so I tackled that. Only one I didn't replace was the front to back. I forgot the previous owner said there was a shift cable that went bad when his son was in school. His kid did the logical thing for an 18yo... Google vw dealers in Pittsburgh and had them come get it. I remembered Peter's was furious about it, but kinda had his hands tied. Wasn't a cheap bill. Lol. Anyway that bushing was nice and tight so I didn't bother messing with it. Loaded a new tune from burpod and went for a drive. We're getting closer to perfection I can feel it. Or we'll as perfect as it's gonna get with my combination of parts.

 

[Diesel Fumes]

I tried recharging the air conditioning today. I had assumed the whole system was buggered now for like 3 years. Charged it and now it blows ice cold

 

[SilverGhost]

Not mine and not a diesel, but r&r’d the crank position sensor on his 03 2.0 Golf.

His engine just died while driving a couple days ago. He was able to restart it and get home. Yesterday same thing happened, and he came over with it to scan with VCDS. I was thinking ignition switch, but he had two codes for G28.

It was a grimy mess to pull the sensor out, but finally removed it and installed the new one I picked up at NAPA on my way home from work. Car started right up. All the wiring leading to the plug looked a-ok.

For shots & goggles i ohmed out the old sensor, which of course tested fine. But I expected that as the sensor hadn’t yet failed completely.

G28 usually fails hot - get it nice and toasty, then ohm it out.

jason

 

[Nuje]

I tried recharging the air conditioning today. I had assumed the whole system was buggered now for like 3 years. Charged it and now it blows ice cold

I'm facing a car with no A/C either (low/no pressure in the lines), so just curious how you did that? Did you do the whole vacuum of the system for an hour or whatever and then put in the refrigerant? Or just plugged in a can of R134a (or R12?) and dumped the contents?

 

[csstevej]

E-brake wasn’t holding , took a look and found rh lever wouldn’t move.
Tapped with hammer but barely moved. Got the cable off and still wouldn’t move.
Removed lever and destroyed the shaft seal trying to get it out , rubber came out but the steel in the rubber remained in the housing. Used a small flathead screwdriver and tapped side in till broke loose. It was filled with corrosion.
Used a pick to clean out corrosion and silicone spray and worked shaft back and forth to loosen it up.
I had a seized caliper that I pulled the seal out intact , greased up the inside along with the shaft , reinstalled seal , lever and spring and works beautifully….30 minutes of my time and not a dime spent…..priceless…..

 

[benIV]

Replaced Wilbur's left knuckle and some other parts. put the pics in the pic thread in sig.

 

[Zak99b5]

E-brake wasn’t holding , took a look and found rh lever wouldn’t move.
Tapped with hammer but barely moved. Got the cable off and still wouldn’t move.
Removed lever and destroyed the shaft seal trying to get it out , rubber came out but the steel in the rubber remained in the housing. Used a small flathead screwdriver and tapped side in till broke loose. It was filled with corrosion.
Used a pick to clean out corrosion and silicone spray and worked shaft back and forth to loosen it up.
I had a seized caliper that I pulled the seal out intact , greased up the inside along with the shaft , reinstalled seal , lever and spring and works beautifully….30 minutes of my time and not a dime spent…..priceless…..

When I cleaned up my parking brake to free it up, I couldn't see how to get the rubber boot off the shaft. So I just stuck a pick down between the boot and the shaft and scraped around a bit and sprayed Kroil in there to free it up.

I did order new calipers to swap in, but I'm planning on rebuilding the ones I take off so I have spares. Any tips on how to remove that rubber piece?

 

[csstevej]

When I cleaned up my parking brake to free it up, I couldn't see how to get the rubber boot off the shaft. So I just stuck a pick down between the boot and the shaft and scraped around a bit and sprayed Kroil in there to free it up.

I did order new calipers to swap in, but I'm planning on rebuilding the ones I take off so I have spares. Any tips on how to remove that rubber piece?

I had a spare caliper that was seized . I had shredded the one on the car.
I used needle nose pliers and grabbed as much of the seal as possible and kind of rolled it towards the shaft. I worked it around and it popped off…that was on the spare one I had…easier to look at. I thought it was all rubber but when I got it out I realized that it was a metal cup encased in rubber.
Once I got most of the rubber out with a pick and needle nose pliers, I scraped around the edge and found the metal cup .
I then used a small common screw driver and tapped the edge toward the shaft in two places next to each other and the seal popped out.
Cleaned the rest of the corrosion up and freed shaft up and used some wheel bearing grease.
The seal was packed with more grease and pushed in with a screw driver.
I believe that seal comes in a rebuilding kit.
I did one years ago .

 

[Zak99b5]

I had a spare caliper that was seized . I had shredded the one on the car.
I used needle nose pliers and grabbed as much of the seal as possible and kind of rolled it towards the shaft. I worked it around and it popped off…that was on the spare one I had…easier to look at. I thought it was all rubber but when I got it out I realized that it was a metal cup encased in rubber.
Once I got most of the rubber out with a pick and needle nose pliers, I scraped around the edge and found the metal cup .
I then used a small common screw driver and tapped the edge toward the shaft in two places next to each other and the seal popped out.
Cleaned the rest of the corrosion up and freed shaft up and used some wheel bearing grease.
The seal was packed with more grease and pushed in with a screw driver.
I believe that seal comes in a rebuilding kit.
I did one years ago .

Great--thanks. I actually found a good video of how to rebuild the rear calipers on youtube.

Now if only I could find a rebuild kit. Only thing i've found so far is the seal & boot for the piston. I did see a kit on ebay from Great Britain, but my car wasn't listed in the compatibility list. Messaged the seller to see.

 

[Diesel Fumes]

I'm facing a car with no A/C either (low/no pressure in the lines), so just curious how you did that? Did you do the whole vacuum of the system for an hour or whatever and then put in the refrigerant? Or just plugged in a can of R134a (or R12?) and dumped the contents?

Just dumped in a can. No idea how long it will last but for now it does.

 

[csstevej]

Zak check the number on the caliper…. There are 2 different size pistons……it’s on the round part of the casting where the piston is housed . I know one is 38…. Can’t remember if other is higher or lower.
They make two different kits.

 

[benIV]

Just dumped in a can. No idea how long it will last but for now it does.

do you check pressures before and after? curious not critical.

 

[Fix_Until_Broke]

do you check pressures before and after? curious not critical.

It's an expansion valve system - the low side pressure is always the same and the high side pressure is outside temperature dependent (assuming nothing is broken).
Best way to fill these is with a scale by mass.

 

[Diesel Fumes]

do you check pressures before and after? curious not critical.

10 psi before, 80 after. Turns out I filled it a bit much I think

 

[Diesel Fumes]

10 psi before, 80 after. Turns out I filled it a bit much I think

Admittedly I didn't know what I was doing. Hooked a can up and it went to like 50psi. Took can off. Started car for 5 mins blowing full ac. Then shut down and check and it read 80. First time I ever recharged an ac system

 

[dieseldonato]

What pressure are you looking at? High side should be higher then that, and low side should be lower then 80. More like 35-45 ish. Really can't tell anything with out a manifold gauge set.
A rough idea of full charge will be sytem pressure after its been off for a while. It should be close to ambient temp. So 70psi if its around 70* out. The system needs to equalize first though, and it's just a general rule of thumb.

 

[Zak99b5]

And the correct pressure only tells you there is SOME (and not way too much) in the system, so it should turn on.

I've heard it explained like this: think of a bottle filled a bit with liquid, under pressure. There's liquid at the bottom because of the pressure above it. That pressure doesn't tell you how much liquid there is, only that there's enough liquid for some of it to turn into a gas and keep the pressure (which keeps the bottom liquid).

Not sure if I'm explaining that very well, but that's why you need to know the mass of the R134.

 

[Zak99b5]

Zak check the number on the caliper…. There are 2 different size pistons……it’s on the round part of the casting where the piston is housed . I know one is 38…. Can’t remember if other is higher or lower.
They make two different kits.

Cool I will check out the calipers for that after I remove them. New calipers should come today, so I'll do that tomorrow.

Shipping on the ebay rebuild kit from the UK doubles the price. Thinking maybe a group buy might be in order??

 

[SilverGhost]

Ideal is around 30 PSI low side and depending on car and how hot it is outside between 150 and 250 high side (though 180 is a good number in 80*F weather out of direct sunlight).

Standing pressure (car/AC not running, will be close to ambient temperature. BUUUUUUUT, soon as you start the car to run the AC you add heat to system and the pressure will be higher. It will take hours to settle back to ambient temperature and pressure match again.

@Zak99b5 - good description on pressure vs total system charge volume. That's why I always recover system then charge with set amount. No way to tell how much is actually in the system until to take it out an weight it. And I have seen overcharged systems fail dramatically - fluid does not compress.

Jason

 

[ClimbRunOm]

forgot to post this last week, but finally upgraded the headlights, and installed a NOCO plug housing for my FrostHeater!

PXL_20221229_213556363.MP.jpg

• ClimbRunOm
• May 19, 2023

New Headlights and NOCO plug housing install

PXL_20221230_174010456.MP.jpg

• ClimbRunOm
• May 19, 2023

New Headlights and NOCO plug housing

 

[dieseldonato]

Got my e brakes cables on. Found the left rear caliper pins were seized up. Got them out and cleaned up. Working well again. Also had to work to get the e brake lever freed up. Got rotors and pads ordered for it. On the bright side the brake pedel doesnt totally suck anymore.

 

[romad]

Squeezed in a wash job between yesterday's & today's thundershowers. Next week I have to do the Miata.