P2B
Top Post Dawg
Cluster power is switched by the ignition, so no lights on the cluster (except the backlight, if headlight switch is on) unless ignition is on.
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
SilverGhost
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2005
- Location
- Back in So Flo - St Lucie
- TDI
- '05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Not to complicate the alarm honk any more, but mine was the radio - it shares the hood latch circuit to the CCM so reads as hood latch trigger. Had to remember to smack the radio every couple months.
Jason
Jason
Vwkaferman
Veteran Member
Well shucks. Alarm went off last night after dinner. Popped the hood so it wouldn't go off all hours of the night. Reckon I'm digging back into it. One of these days. Busy!
James
James
Well, not exactly mine (was mine, now my son's), not exactly a diesel (AEB 1.8T), and not exactly an A4 (it’s an Audi B5 A4), and technically yesterday, but we replaced his rear left wheel bearing. A year ago we did the right side, so this one should go quickly, correct?
When it was time to remove the sway bar link, up top there’s a bolt and nut. Nut was just spinning on the bolt, but not backing off. That's fine, we can just disco it at the bottom. Allen key in the ball joint stud, got it about 1/3 of the way off, and the Allen key hole strips out. Would up having to sawzall the link in half and both connections to get the little effer out.
We couldn’t pull the spindle out far enough to get the cv axle out of the bearing (we had already removed the hub). So we thought we'd loosen the LCA eccentric alignment bolt. Damn that thing was tight. Got a long breaker bar out and put a 40” long cheater over it. Pop goes the weasel. Snapped it. Oh well, he needed to order a new link for the sway bar anyway.
Finish up the r&ring the bearing, and my son called the audi dealer for the bolt. All they could offer was the part number. NLA. Checked all the usual VAG parts web sites, and it’s NLA everywhere. Under the normal hex head is a smaller hex head that keys into the eccentric washer, and at the other end is a groove for a tooth in the opposite side eccentric washer.
I found an old subframe bolt that we could use to reassemble the car so he could drive it back to his house, no sway bar link. I shot an old buddy of mine (Josh who works for ID Parts) with a question about a bolt that looked basically the same that was in stock but had a D at the end of the part number, not the C we got from Audi. To see if it was just a supersession/revision.
Bad news, the D part is a different part, for the alignment at the track rod to the subframe. Good news, I found the actual part on eBay, $11 bolt with $17 shipping, here in 4-6 weeks though.
Even better news, Josh texts back that he had bought some rear end hardware for his car years ago, and he found the bolt and washers we need In his stash. Going to drive up to get it later today and give him the one we ordered when it comes in.
When it was time to remove the sway bar link, up top there’s a bolt and nut. Nut was just spinning on the bolt, but not backing off. That's fine, we can just disco it at the bottom. Allen key in the ball joint stud, got it about 1/3 of the way off, and the Allen key hole strips out. Would up having to sawzall the link in half and both connections to get the little effer out.
We couldn’t pull the spindle out far enough to get the cv axle out of the bearing (we had already removed the hub). So we thought we'd loosen the LCA eccentric alignment bolt. Damn that thing was tight. Got a long breaker bar out and put a 40” long cheater over it. Pop goes the weasel. Snapped it. Oh well, he needed to order a new link for the sway bar anyway.
Finish up the r&ring the bearing, and my son called the audi dealer for the bolt. All they could offer was the part number. NLA. Checked all the usual VAG parts web sites, and it’s NLA everywhere. Under the normal hex head is a smaller hex head that keys into the eccentric washer, and at the other end is a groove for a tooth in the opposite side eccentric washer.
I found an old subframe bolt that we could use to reassemble the car so he could drive it back to his house, no sway bar link. I shot an old buddy of mine (Josh who works for ID Parts) with a question about a bolt that looked basically the same that was in stock but had a D at the end of the part number, not the C we got from Audi. To see if it was just a supersession/revision.
Bad news, the D part is a different part, for the alignment at the track rod to the subframe. Good news, I found the actual part on eBay, $11 bolt with $17 shipping, here in 4-6 weeks though.
Even better news, Josh texts back that he had bought some rear end hardware for his car years ago, and he found the bolt and washers we need In his stash. Going to drive up to get it later today and give him the one we ordered when it comes in.
Oh and when I locked the Jetta yesterday, the alarm horn honked. Was about to hook up VCDS, but I’m guessing it will show all switches working. Maybe one going bad? I’ll deal with that when it’s back to misbehaving.
Discovered the issue with the alarm no honk. The driver's door button actuator has gotten lazy, so it only works for the warmer 5-6 months of the year when I press the button on the fob or when I hit 6 mph or whatever for automatic locking. It's been like this for over a year, and I just use the key in the cylinder to lock the car, the button moves down, and all is good.
Now it appears that the front passenger door actuator is also lazy. When it stays up after turn the key in the drivers door to lock the car, the passenger door isn't really locked, so no confirmation honk.
Maybe this summer I'll just replace both door latch assemblies. Or see if a lube job will make them work reliably in the warm and cold weather.
Now it appears that the front passenger door actuator is also lazy. When it stays up after turn the key in the drivers door to lock the car, the passenger door isn't really locked, so no confirmation honk.
Maybe this summer I'll just replace both door latch assemblies. Or see if a lube job will make them work reliably in the warm and cold weather.
gmenounos
Vendor
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2003
- Location
- Watertown, MA, USA
- TDI
- '99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
Replaced the battery in the Golf with an Interstate H7 non-AGM from Costco (Currently $150 with a 3-year warranty).
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GP_RZ
Well-known member
Did a Ventectomy on my 03 wagon, now it fills right up to the cap. Took all of 5 minutes.
tdidieselbobny
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2005
- Location
- Stafford,NY (WNY)
- TDI
- '03 Galactic Blue Jetta TDI, '15 Silk Blue Golf Sportwagen TDI
Put it up on stands couple days ago. Fixed that loose front tin shield-center part around stud kinda corroded out on both sides on the front studs. Got a 3/16" x 1-1/4' fender washer and a speed screw clip for both sides. All tight now. Sprayed some Fluid Film on the ps rack lines and bolt heads holding lines into rack. Looked to see if I could see anymore coolant leaks. I left cap a little loose, and didn't see anymore leaking from left side of radiator. Wiggled the brake and reverse bulb in holder to get working again. This was a new holder awhile back, don't know why they keep needing to be wiggled every now and then to get working again. Took it for it's inspection today, good for another year( was actually due in March, thought it was February when I made appt. 
).... I also put the H6 battery that was in wagon into the Jetta. When I was starting with the older H7 battery that was in it, the voltage on scangauge was in the mid-10 volt range, and when cranking went down in the low 9 volt range. I think the date code on the H7 was 7/17, so probably near it's end....
).... I also put the H6 battery that was in wagon into the Jetta. When I was starting with the older H7 battery that was in it, the voltage on scangauge was in the mid-10 volt range, and when cranking went down in the low 9 volt range. I think the date code on the H7 was 7/17, so probably near it's end....still want to clear the rear sunroof drain lines but the string trimmer line jams up on something when going from the sunroof
GlowBugTDI
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2018
- Location
- Cambridge, MN
- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Check your door jams for a thin broken wire (can't remember the color scheme rn. green/red maybe). Also If your drivers side lights never come on when opening the door it is unlikely your problem. You can cut the microswitch wire and rule that out of the equation for certain.
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Pulled the rubber grommets for the rear sunroof drains from below the taillights without dropping the rear bumper, hopefully cleaning these out will take care of the water that was showing up on the backseat.
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Just figured out why I could never get the 6 disk CD changer to mount to the bracket in the trunk, the bracket is 1/4 inch too narrow to fit the Alpine CD changer... Previous owner had it velcroed to the felt, now deleted, didn't know that there were different sized mounting brackets
Vwkaferman
Veteran Member
Sitting outside enjoying Friday evening and alarm went off. It didn’t beep earlier when I locked it. Lifted hood, disconnected hood switch, closed hood and car armed with beep. So I take it the switch when closed is N/O (normally open)?
I’ve got a 50/50 shot of being right lol but hoping this helps diagnose. I do have a 3 day weekend so I’m hoping to hook up the ole laptop and look at some readings and also get some logs to send out to look at the tune.
James
GlowBugTDI
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2018
- Location
- Cambridge, MN
- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
Yes when the hood/doors are closed the circuit is open. Opening the latch closes the circuit.
Sounds like your hood may be the culprit. Unless you want the hood to arm I would just take it out of the circuit so the car thinks the hood is always closed. I don't know where you live, but where I am i don't think anyone would try to open the hood without opening the door first in a robbery.
Vwkaferman
Veteran Member
Appreciate the feedback for sure. Since posting (disconnecting hood switch) alarm went off again. Sigh, hooked switch back up and left hood popped. Was wondering if the hood and or latch might be making intermittent pressure/contact on the switch.
James
GlowBugTDI
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2018
- Location
- Cambridge, MN
- TDI
- 2001 Beetle GLS TDI (BIODSL). 01 original Glow Bug TDI (sold)
I'd check door jams next. Then drivers door lock module
Found more water under the the tail-lights in the corners under the hatch of the golf and water was dripping in from the pressure vents .
Took the bumper off and found the old gasket ripped up and saturated with water, like some sort of open celled foam, silicone caulking hopefully good for another 20 years.
Also found that the right side sunroof drain was rattling around so wrapped it with a couple pieces of velcro, happy to find the source of another rattley bit
Took the bumper off and found the old gasket ripped up and saturated with water, like some sort of open celled foam, silicone caulking hopefully good for another 20 years.
Also found that the right side sunroof drain was rattling around so wrapped it with a couple pieces of velcro, happy to find the source of another rattley bit
It rained enough to find a fresh puddle in the corner again. There were a couple puddles on some of the horizontal sections of the taillight housing but at least the vent looked dry 
The tail light was missing the oem gasket so now we have a little weather stripping with a strip cut down the center and a bit of super glue holding the 1/2 inch round foam to the housing.
After this pic I added a constant tension clamp to the lower part of the sunroof drain gromet
The tail light was missing the oem gasket so now we have a little weather stripping with a strip cut down the center and a bit of super glue holding the 1/2 inch round foam to the housing.
After this pic I added a constant tension clamp to the lower part of the sunroof drain gromet
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Over the past week I've had all 4 wheel bearings replaced on IBW. First the right front, then both rears on Monday, and the left front on yesterdays. Nice and quiet now. I can't recall how long the current ones have been in there, but no doubt it's been hundreds of thousands of miles.
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Before and after.
And this dynamic duo is heading to Alberta. 220 amp alternator and remanufactured starter for an alh.
KrashDH
Veteran Member
Where do you get your reman kits for starter re-builds?
Before and after.
And this dynamic duo is heading to Alberta. 220 amp alternator and remanufactured starter for an alh.
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
I get the individual pieces in bulk and do the rebuilds and also assemble the rebuild kits myself as well.
KrashDH
Veteran Member
Cool. I'll be in contact when I need to rebuild for a kit!
Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
Is the one starter longer than the other?
Details on the 220A alternator?
Details on the 220A alternator?
csstevej
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2004
- Location
- north nj
- TDI
- 2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I can say with confidence , I bought one of Moz’s rebuilt alternators for my daughters 2003 NB and it looked brand new and worked perfectly.
I have a second one I gotta order from him as soon as I get some money stashed aside with a core return…. Need to keep one on the shelf…..they always seem to fail at the least opportune time….
I have a second one I gotta order from him as soon as I get some money stashed aside with a core return…. Need to keep one on the shelf…..they always seem to fail at the least opportune time….
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
Yeah, one is an ALH auto starter, the other one is for a manual.
The alternators I build from 220 amp Audi v6 alternators which stock are LIN controlled, I rebuild them and convert them to ignition controlled for the MK4/B5
03TDICommuter
Veteran Member
Nice work! I just splurged and bought a Valeo starter for my 01' beetle. It's been cranking slow in these low-mid 40 temps here. Could use a new battery too I'm sure, but I figure I'd help it out a little.
Mozambiquer
Vendor , w/Business number
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2015
- Location
- Versailles Missouri
- TDI
- 1998 VW Jetta TDI. 1982 VW Rabbit pickup, 2001 VW Jetta TDI, 2005 VW Passat wagon TDI X3, 2001 VW golf TDI, 1980 VW rabbit pickup,
The Valeo ones are great starters! I'm waiting on my next shipment of them. Been waiting a while now...