What did you do to your MKIV today?

[P2B]

Why pull the foam blocks (I didn't), is it another catch all for junk building up?

They retain moisture which leads to rust at the top of the fender arches.

The VW TSB says to cut 10mm off the end of the blocks, but most remove them entirely. They are intended to reduce NVH.

 

[csstevej]

Why pull the foam blocks (I didn't), is it another catch all for junk building up?

James

It rubs through the inside of the fenders paint and holds moister against it causing rust from the inside out on the fender arches.

 

[Zak99b5]

It rubs through the inside of the fenders paint and holds moister against it causing rust from the inside out on the fender arches.

They are not on the gassers, and therefore not really needed. Definitely remove them.

 

[Nuje]

While I was in there, oh yeah, you guys were right, a lot of built up on the rear of BOTH fender liners (did drivers side too since I was wrenching).

That wheel debris is shockingly "light". When I pull the liners on cars I'm working on, they're at least double that height, and so densely packed with crud that it's pretty much like clay - have to use a screwdriver to clean it out.

 

[csstevej]

Weather was warm here so decided to change all the shocks and struts in daughter s 03 NB before she starts her new job.
Replaced the backs with sachs from IDPARTS and installed new mounts…..old ones were definitely tired.
When to do front ones , also sachs struts and found both coil springs broken……back to IDPARTS and are overnighting the “ the beef on a budget “ springs….. new rh rear caliper and disk…..didn’t like the way the disk looks…..and I suspect the caliper is hanging up….don’t want the headache….just put new on.
So when they show up tomorrow……I get to reassemble the front end…..in the rain.
I love my kids…….I love my kids……I love my kids…….I love my kids…..the things I do for them……

 

[benmarks]

After a few years of searching, I finally found a convex driver's side auto-dimming mirror on eBay. I'd been stuck using a flat one which wasn't awesome. Ideally, I'd still like to find an aspherical auto-dimming mirror, but I've never seen one for sale new or used on any eBay or parts reseller even though I have the part number and I know they existed... at some point.

audi_convex_mirror.jpg

• benmarks
• Feb 22, 2022

 

[KrashDH]

After a few years of searching, I finally found a convex driver's side auto-dimming mirror on eBay. I'd been stuck using a flat one which wasn't awesome. Ideally, I'd still like to find an aspherical auto-dimming mirror, but I've never seen one for sale new or used on any eBay or parts reseller even though I have the part number and I know they existed... at some point.

audi_convex_mirror.jpg

• benmarks
• Feb 22, 2022

Nice find. I'd just like to get a set of the split convex mirrors at some point. The visibility is so poor out of the factory ones in my Golf since they are flat. Can't even see your wheel when you're trying to back into a space.

 

[kirktdi]

Same here. Looking for convex glass for drivers side (left side) Mk 4 Jetta

 

[Mozambiquer]

Same here. Looking for convex glass for drivers side (left side) Mk 4 Jetta

I lucked out and got a set for $30 from someone who had gotten a set but didn't like it.

 

[Elvez]

Removed my headliner and pillar covers:

Snagged some side skirts from the Pull and Save:

And installed a skid plate:

 

[benmarks]

Same here. Looking for convex glass for drivers side (left side) Mk 4 Jetta

If you're just looking for regular glass, I'd recommend the aspherical glass. It has more of a curve and shows more of what's behind you. It looks like Cascade German has a driver's side mirror: https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/1j1857521c/

The one I've never been able to find is the auto-dimming Audi aspherical mirror. They aren't plug & play though, you have to run wires for them.

 

[Nero Morg]

I purchased both my left and right blue aspherical mirrors from Cascade German a few years ago. Best oem upgrade I ever did. I'd call, they don't always have everything they actually have listed online. Also bonus of switching mirrors was now my mirror heat works again.

 

[benmarks]

I agree that it's a great upgrade. It was something I didn't plan on losing when I decided to wire mine for auto-dimming, and it wasn't until later that I realized how impossible it was to find the auto-dimming variant of the aspherical glass.

 

[pkhoury]

What did I do today... per @Whitbread 's suggestion, dumped the water-intruded GL4 from my transmission, put in the cheapest ATF at Carquest and ran it on jacks for 10 minutes around 40-45mph-ish, drained, and now refilled it with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. This is ahead of getting my modded fluidampr from him. Not only am I eager to see if it helps on the clutch chatter, but if I can avoid the grinding I get from first, and occasionallly 4th.

And I have yet another person coming to see a 2003 Beetle TDI I have for sale. Sadly, I'm afraid it's another tire kicker who knows nothing about TDIs...

 

[pkhoury]

Removed my headliner and pillar covers:


And installed a skid plate:

Who makes the skidplate? Dieselgeek doesn't think they'll resume production unless materials costs go down, which probably won't happen, so I'm on the lookout for a new source for mk4 skidplates.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

I just pulled the trigger on a full exhaust system from ID last Friday (with cat; also got a set of mounts just in case) - my repaired (read: with new flex joint welded in) original downpipe is apparently failing again. I figure that after 446K miles it's time to retire the OEM exhaust system.

I get an all-new exhaust at a good price, you make money off the sale, and we all keep the MKIV parts market going - everybody wins!

Had the exhaust and mounts installed a week and a half ago, got to watch the install. Went pretty smooth, considering most of it was original - every bolt and nut came off, to my astonishment - the underside seems to be rust-free, despite the age/mileage (and I just turned 448K miles yesterday.

Only odd thing was that neither I nor the mechanic that installed it could figure out how to open up that "band" style clamp that came with the kit (and which ID said goes between the cat and the intermediate pipe) so it would fit over the expanded-pipe joint. He ended up using a second U-bolt type (the u-bolt one that came in the kit went between intermediate pipe and muffler as directed by ID - I called and asked), and I brought the band clamp home in case I find a use for it some day. He also trimmed down the excess threads on both clamps to avoid snags/cranial gouges...

Oh, and from putting the parts into the car/taking back out/moving the old stuff out of his way, I noticed that this muffler seems to actually weigh noticeably MORE than the VW-original one - maybe by a couple pounds. Found that interesting and unexpected.

The original stuff was in better shape than we thought, but that L-pipe between cat and muffler looked like it wasn't too long from failing - all rust, no clean metal on it.

 

[Rob Mayercik]

Who makes the skidplate? Dieselgeek doesn't think they'll resume production unless materials costs go down, which probably won't happen, so I'm on the lookout for a new source for mk4 skidplates.

Looks like a newer version of my Evolution Atlas, with a few extra holes and a cover for the oil drain "port" to me, with a coat of black paint...

 

[benmarks]

It's obviously not as light as an aluminum one, but I think you can still get the steel 1.35mm OEM skid plate: 1J0698930

ECS says they still have it, but it also says "by March 1st" which, being a date in the future, is code for "we might have it but don't be surprised if your order is canceled.

The heavy duty 2.8mm steel one is NLA, however:1J0698931

 

[Rrusse11]

Heavy Duty Aluminum Skid Plate Kit w/ Oil Drain Port & Cover (A4)

DISCONTINUED Volkswagen's oil pans are made of a paper-thin cast aluminum that is easily cracked by many objects such as road debris, manhole covers and speed bumps. While your car may be at stock ...

www.idparts.com

This is the one I've got on my Golf, currently available.

 

[Zak99b5]

Drove it to Massachusetts to pick up som, erm, supplies.

Helped #2 son change his oil and spark plugs in his 03 Golf.

Received shipment from ID Parts to change out the tranny fluid in her 05 Golf.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Spark plugs?

 

[Zak99b5]

Spark plugs?

Yes, both kids’ Golfs are gassers. And autos. Looked for a TDI when my daughter bought her car, but the only one we found was an 05 that had boost issues (and it was an auto as well). My other two driving kids (there’s two more too young, 6 total) at least drive manual trannies.

 

[Zak99b5]

The “her” above is daughter #1. Forgot to type that.

 

[csstevej]

Well finally got the front struts and bigger springs installed on my youngest daughters car, also replaced the rh rear caliper and disc along with the pads on that side. Caliper was definitely toast as was the disc…..
Car drives really nice now , plus I had installed a 2” lift kit almost 8 years ago, with that beef on a budget spring set I got from idparts, the front of her bugs wheel arch to ground is 29”…..mine same setup minus the beefier springs sit at 27 1/2”.
Gonna see if they settle a little…….may have to cut the customs spacers in half …..time will tell.

Funny most of my issues on all my cars vw ,Toyota, Chevy , all are double the amount of issues on the right side..

 

[PakProtector]

Right side ov the road is rougher. And my first counter to that is what I am taking as a clunking strut mount on the left side of my '02. I have the 034 track density on my white Jetta, and am contemplating black PowerFlex for the black one wid the clunk. It is disgraceful; new struts and likely re-used the bearings and mounts...either way it is going to come apart again soon.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[Rrusse11]

Got my set of glow plugs installed with a new wiring loom. Trimmed the wires on the harness and crimped with shrink butt
connectors to the existing wires rather than try and track down where the clip is. This at the recommendation of my guru.
Needs to be taped up after a successful test run home.

Started yesterday by squirting the base of the glow plugs with Marvel Mystery Oil as a penetrating oil. First when cold and
then when I got back from errands, block warm. Same routine this morning. I bought the latest Harbor Freight 20v brushless
1/4" impact driver, 3 speed settings, variable. With an 8inch long 1/4" wobble extension I was able to access each plug
without having to remove any fuel lines. They all came out pretty easily on the lowest speed with the new driver rattling
them gently. Whew! Reading the horror stories I did NOT want to break one. I'm sure the repeated hot/cold application
of oil helped. Overkill doing all four, only one was bad, but I doubt I'll be doing them again for a loooong time. Lots of
the high price high temp nickel based never seize on the threads.

Lo and behold my guru had the valve cover CCV rubber grommet on his shelves! A shot of silicone and it sealed up the
breather for my catchcan elbow. My $9 LED headlamp proved its worth, made seeing what I was doing with my hands
free much easier. My only regret was that I shoulda' bought the whole package deal of harness & glowplugs from the
outset, ah well, c'est la vie. No more CEL on the 20 minute ride home. Now to reset the locknut on the turbo actuator.
If I punch it I'll spike to 30psi of boost. Lol, impressive! but it's pushing the turbo beyond sustainable limits.

 

[MukGyver]

I finally pulled the trigger and ordered an Evolution Atlas belly pan and ramps so I could actually have room to install it. All the narrow winding roads around here have drop offs at the edge of the roadway and it would just take once running off of it.

Speaking of glow plugs my indicator light hasn't been coming on for months and I never did notice when it quit coming on. There has been no cel or issues starting up and the vcds shows nothing for glow plugs. Are there a small number of culprits for this?

 

[Rrusse11]

Mukgyver,
I don't know this, but my understanding is that if the temps are high enough, there's no need for the GPs
to kick in. Certainly when engine is warm, no sign of the pigtail when restarting.






















PS

 

[MukGyver]

Mukgyver,
I don't know this, but my understanding is that if the temps are high enough, there's no need for the GPs
to kick in. Certainly when engine is warm, no sign of the pigtail when restarting.

Thanks that was my thought too. It did get down to 30 and sat overnight still no GP light. It may not be getting cold enough still. I'm guessing there is a temperature signal the ecu sees when the key comes on? Not that I would mess with it but I wonder if the response to it is adjustable in vcsd.

 

[PakProtector]

Got some entertaining applications for anti-seize, and concluded that moly di-sulphide is going to cause me the least issues. It is slippery; and the nut factor is about 2/3 what dry is steel on steel. Most certainly not going to screw 'em in very tightly. The Henkel 8012 is 65% moly by weight...and I have a 4-oz sample that is 72%... I do not want the anti-stick compound to make the dissimilar metals bit a risk.
cheers,
Douglas