What did you do to your MKIV today?

[Nero Morg]

I hadn't, but I will..... Eventually.

 

[Mozambiquer]

Did you do the hatch-does-what-doors-do (lock/unlock) as well? If you can do remote windows, you can do the hatch thing.

I did that on mine. It was my favorite mod!

 

[PakProtector]

Diesel geek viton o-rings for the head, and bosch kits for the qty adjuster and its cap and I am ready. Most curiously I am not feeling up to doing a front crank seal...what silliness is that? Guess I'd like to see one before doing it myself. And it is cold, and now snowing and no solid counterhold tool... LOL
cheers,
Douglas

 

[csstevej]

Then I tried to troubleshoot an injection pump I resealed. I'm pretty sure I royally f**ked it up. I forgot about setting it "on cam", and was sloppy and forgot to make sure the quantity adjuster lobe was on the ring in the pump. Well, I got the car to run (this is on my Ute), but now I see what a runaway diesel (due to fuel) can do. Thankfully, I had it ready in 5th gear, and that got the engine to stop when i needed it to. Hammer modding didn't work, so I'm worried the shim fell out of the pump.

Chances are that the pin on the QA didn’t get put back into the collar….happened to me when I did my daughters car…..scared the crap out of me when the engine took off.
After I cleaned out my pants took it back apart and sure enough I missed the hole with the pin.
After I got it correct engine was fine , just a small amount of hammer mod to put it where I wanted it with room for future adjustments.

 

[pkhoury]

Chances are that the pin on the QA didn’t get put back into the collar….happened to me when I did my daughters car…..scared the crap out of me when the engine took off.
After I cleaned out my pants took it back apart and sure enough I missed the hole with the pin.
After I got it correct engine was fine , just a small amount of hammer mod to put it where I wanted it with room for future adjustments.

I got the pin in the hole. I didn't do it the first time, but I also forgot to set the pump "on cam." So I have no idea if I f**ked something up or not. Lesson learned though for IQ - stick with dieselgeek's idea of using JB Weld on the back (two small spots). Then you can match up the pattern the JB weld leaves, and that worked for me when I had to reseal the pump in my 2002 Golf while out of state. I didn't set that pump "on cam", but did make sure the pin was in the hole on the collar.

Did you do the hatch-does-what-doors-do (lock/unlock) as well? If you can do remote windows, you can do the hatch thing.

I'd love to do this on my 2000 Golf, but I have a feeling it's not support in the CCM.

 

[pkhoury]

And back to the topic of this thread... I didn't do anything to my own mk4, other than drive it to San Antonio, Austin and then the rural route back home, but I pulled some good parts from the junkyard. ALH engine cover (that people seem to like on ebay), 10mm injection pump with kinda stale diesel in it, some tail lights, including some kinda smoked lens German-made tail lights, 1 left Hella mk4 Golf headlight (meant to pull another, so I might make another trip back there), rear leather seats and cushions for a Golf (I stand corrected if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure Golf rear seat back sare different from Jetta or Jetta wagon rear seat backs). They had some broken glass dust, but I'll clean them up later. A 9w7 bluetooth module from a Passat, an RCD-510 from a CC (fringe benefits), and some other random miscellanious stuff. All for about $330-ish. The yard got another ALH golf a few weeks ago - everything in that car is practically picked CLEAN. No seats, nothing in the engine compartment, even the shifter and instrument cluster. Someone wanted that car BAD!

I might need to head back so I can pull some door cards from one of the Golfs, to replace the cigarette-infested door cards already in there. These were black (as opposed to silver or beige), but I've never really cared about matching, as long as all 4 are matched.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Replaced the heater blower motor with a used one that I got almost 3 years ago. When I was at pick-n-pull 3 years ago to get a blower motor, I ended up pulling 3 from the numerous VW's they had. Glad I did. I have 1 more spare left...

 

[benmarks]

Today's acquisition... OEM brake line covers for the undercarriage. I also found the matching fuel line covers too, but they haven't arrived yet.

IMG_1867.jpg

• benmarks
• Feb 18, 2022

 

[Nero Morg]

Drove to Gates, OR to look at a truck. Turns out it was a bust. Scangauge said averaged 42mpg with a trunk load of tools and full tank. Not often I can turn cruise on for 50 miles.

 

[pkhoury]

I thought I wasn't going to do anything, but I did. Took the 2000 Golf for a test drive (first time since I put new vacuum tubing in) and it honestly feels like a tune. If I did a dump of my EDC15, is there any way to tell if it's tuned, other than comparing it to another EDC15?

On the note of EEPROM dumps - I successfully upgraded to a 01M immo3 cluster, so now I have needle sweep, selective illumination, and actual coolant temp, among other things (next will be fine tuning the speedometer).
I detailed what I did here: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...-an-immo2-cluster-to-an-immo3-cluster.520339/

 

[Judson]

So I am running Koni special actives with stock springs. The springs are allowing front end lift on acceleration. What would be a good set of springs to buy that would maintain the stock ride height and also improve control over bumps. Do not want increased harshness over bumps. I think a high quality spring would do the trick. Obviously I want to minimize dip and dive.

TIA! Jud

 

[Rrusse11]

You could try a set of these;

Beef on a Budget Lift Spring Set (A4)

Named after the Beef on a Budget TDIClub thread, this set of MOOG springs imitates the OEM VR6 Front and Jetta Wagon rear springs. This combination works very well for Jetta Sedan and especia...

www.idparts.com

The special actives should smooth out the bumps. Maybe just try the fronts first.

 

[JDSwan87]

Brothers 99.5 (Compu_85's old car)...
He had a dragging rear caliper. I dis-assembled both rear brake assemblies. Both arms move freely, all slide pins are nice and smooth, both cables slide in/out fine, and all 4 pads sit nicely on their stamped slides. I'm at a loss and don't want to start throwing someone else's money away. Also trouble shot his HID retrofits, he has a blown HID bulb. Hoping TheRetrofitSource sends me a coupon since I conveniently left it in my cart.

 

[03TDICommuter]

So I am running Koni special actives with stock springs. The springs are allowing front end lift on acceleration. What would be a good set of springs to buy that would maintain the stock ride height and also improve control over bumps. Do not want increased harshness over bumps. I think a high quality spring would do the trick. Obviously I want to minimize dip and dive.

TIA! Jud

Did it not lift the front end before the Konis were added? FWIW, I don't think you have a spring problem, my 2003 Jetta would do the same thing and I attributed it to engine torque and angle of the halfshafts.

 

[snakeye]

Brothers 99.5 (Compu_85's old car)...
He had a dragging rear caliper. I dis-assembled both rear brake assemblies. Both arms move freely, all slide pins are nice and smooth, both cables slide in/out fine, and all 4 pads sit nicely on their stamped slides. I'm at a loss and don't want to start throwing someone else's money away. Also trouble shot his HID retrofits, he has a blown HID bulb. Hoping TheRetrofitSource sends me a coupon since I conveniently left it in my cart.

Did you remove the pistons to see whether they were rusted?

 

[JDSwan87]

Did you remove the pistons to see whether they were rusted?

I did not. If anything, I would just install new TRW calipers from IDPARTS. Are rusty pistons common in the rust belt Midwest?

 

[snakeye]

I did not. If anything, I would just install new TRW calipers from IDPARTS. Are rusty pistons common in the rust belt Midwest?

Not more than elsewhere. They problem is the handbrake mechanism which tends to seize, but sometimes the seal on the piston boot can break and let in moisture, which can corrode it. It's not hard to remove and clean. You can even buy a replacement piston if it ends up being that.

 

[Nero Morg]

Drove to Oregon City to look at yet another Ford IDI to fix my dad's truck. Got a hard maybe on one truck, beat up, but want to see it run. Needs a starter though. So I'll borrow the one out of his truck and check it out again tomorrow.
Fuel eco on the scangauge II was about 38.6mpg this time. Little bit more stop and go and only top speed of 65 a few times, mostly 55.

 

[GTD170]

Today i removed bird crap only happens when i wash my car......It's like they know or something.....Also

Purchased:
* Oil catch can kit
* Magnetic sump plug, oil and small service kit.
* 2micron fuel filter kit still looking

 

[Judson]

Did it not lift the front end before the Konis were added? FWIW, I don't think you have a spring problem, my 2003 Jetta would do the same thing and I attributed it to engine torque and angle of the halfshafts.

Went from Longbeaches to lightweight 16s and lost 8 lbs a wheel. Now all the torque instead of being used to turn the wheels is lifting the nose. Definitely an unexpected result!

 

[Zak99b5]

Ordered new monster mats, new belly pan hardware (was hanging on by one screw), and a wire repair piece to make my low beams stay on with the highs (I have separate high/low headlights).

Also finished up the wheel bearing r&r with my son on his B5 A4 Quattro. When he pressed in the hub, he used a large plate and wound up pulling the bearing apart a bit (I had already warned him about this). Did it again with the correct size plate, and it seems the bearing is all back together. I won’t be surprised if it doesn’t last that long, and we will keep an eye on it. One of the balls from his old wheel bearing was flat on one side, missing maybe 20% of its metal.

 

[Zak99b5]

Ordered the monster mats from urotuning. Didn't realize they added on some app-based tracking thing for $2.75. Ugh.

 

[GTD170]

Shame i forgot to take before pictures but here is my engine cover all renewed as its pouring it down and boredom kicked in on a sunday.
BTW.......Autoglym products are decent......I recommened

 

[Vwkaferman]

Speaking of wheels, I had to source a new (refurbished) Long Beach wheel. Folks out here in AZ don’t secure their loads. It’s not uncommon for ladders, mattresses, lazy boys and full on dressers to fall off and wreak havoc. So yeah, I think I ran over a 4x4 piece of wood. Destroyed driver front tire, bent rim. It was SO loud, rattled me for sure.

Anyways, weighed the replacement Longbeach on my un-scientific bathroom scale and it came in at ~24lbs. Man I love the way they look but now that little bug is in my head to get lighter wheels. BTW I weighed it because for the life of me I couldn’t find it anywhere online that has breakdowns of what these wheels weigh.

James

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

Filled the Wagon today. Fix_Until_Broke was commenting that he took a fuel economy hit with Michelin Cross Climates, so I was interested to see what I'd get. It's still Winter here, several days started in the single digits during this fill, but I kept my speeds down a little compared to recent tanks, 75-80 on the highway instead of the 85-90 that's tempting these days.

743 miles, 15.85 gallons, 46.9 MPG. Not bad. I think the Cross Climates might show a small hit in FE, but I like them enough that it's OK with me.

I also heard an intermittent wheel bearing noise on my way home from Western MA this morning. I think it's the right front bearing. Jacked up the car and there's no play in the wheel hub, but I'll keep listening for it and probably just have it replaced soon. I think that bearing has been in the car for at least 6 years.

 

[Vwkaferman]

Got off my ace and installed the skid plate from IDparts. Hardest bolt to get in was the one for the bracket nearest the Intercooler. All others were a breeze. Also put in a vented fender liner on the passenger side. Forgot to grab a pic of that. While I was in there, oh yeah, you guys were right, a lot of built up on the rear of BOTH fender liners (did drivers side too since I was wrenching). Good day spent with the ole TDi.

James

 

[PakProtector]

Yeppers...fenders and rockers last a lot longer when that stuff gets cleaned out often. don't forget to pull the foam blocks out of the upper fender...
cheers,
Douglas

 

[csstevej]

I’ve notched about a 1” upside down “ v “ notch at the bottom to let water and debris fall out. Occasionally I’ll run a hose on the windshield cowl to flush out the area.

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I like the Neon in the background.

 

[Vwkaferman]

Why pull the foam blocks (I didn't), is it another catch all for junk building up?

Thanks. neon is a 99' R/T. Bought it 6 years ago, had 74,000 miles on it. Now has I think around 104k miles. Mopar XX rate springs, Koni yellows, neon "trunk kit" wheels, Mopar ECU, Modern Performance UDP, Iceman cold air intake, Madog short throw shifter, and Thermal R&D exhaust. It's a blast to drive. Ain't the fastest out there especially when stock freaking Honda Accords and Hyundai's are easily low 14 second cars (my '94 Camaro Z28 was a low 14 second car LOL) but it's still fun and quick and handles like a go-cart.

James