What did you do to your MKIV today?

[KrashDH]

I found another wagon specific sunglasses holder, that replaces the grab handle above the door. Installing it on the passenger side. I also found a GLI parking brake cover.

I didn't even think to look for this when I was at the pick n pull. I really want one but not sure it would fit my glasses

 

[romad]

I didn't even think to look for this when I was at the pick n pull. I really want one but not sure it would fit my glasses

Well, I can tell you they just barely fit my regular glasses and if I had prescription sunglasses they would be the same size. My glasses dimensions: bow to bow is just under 14.5cm; top of frame to lowest part of the bows when folded is about 7cm, and thickness with bows folded is 2cm.

 

[sriracha]

I didn't even think to look for this when I was at the pick n pull. I really want one but not sure it would fit my glasses

My sunglasses barely fit and it doesn't quite close all the way with sunglasses inside, but technically it does hold the sunglasses in a safe scratch-free zone.

My wagon already has the sunglasses holder on the driver side and I wanted to add a sunglasses holder to the passenger side.

 

[Powder Hound]

The hard pipe was perfect. Other than some oil accumulation, which would be weird, frankly, if there wasn't any there.

This is a Y2k model year, and that hard pipe of which I speak, the one going between the turbocharger impeller outlet and the intercooler, is a funny looking thing that is 2 halves that are held together with yes, count 'em, 18 torx screws. Yikes! Anyway, at one time in the distant past I pulled it apart and found it half full of very fine oil soaked sand. That was at a time when some members were selling foam air cleaners, claiming they would last forever since you could wash them. What they didn't say was that they passed too much dirt, and so I threw mine out.

Anyway, the regular air cleaners are doing their usual great job and there is no accumulation of any dirt or anything else that would block air flow, and the oil was a reasonably small amount.

So, on to checking for other leaks. I'll do a quick check of the brake booster hose as well. That hose is getting long in tooth anyway, so while it doesn't seem like a place to check, I'll do it on advice of the good people offering their help. Seriously, thanks guys!

I have to point out though, that since my problem is underboost, a vacuum loss is counter-indicated. That is, no vacuum is what opens the turbocharger vanes fully for maximum boost.

Cheers,

PH

 

[STDOUBT]

^Related maybe,
Recently I went through _all_ the tubing on both the '01 and '03. Found some loosey goose stuff like dying screw clamps (put there by PO or some mechanic), very oily connections etc.
Actually removed & cleaned each pipe really well, popped in a new intercooler (each car), new spring clamps (TY Idparts) and generally made sure the intake tubes and charge air tract -all of it- was right, and tight.
'03 is still up on stands ...........tomorrow is IP seals day!
Forgot to say I found a hole in my IC - > EGR elbow pipe from when it popped off and leaned into a pulley, got a nice gash.
Didn't notice the hole maybe 1x1 cm, but wasn't having boost issues. Hoping JBweld can patch it.

 

[Rrusse11]

Powder Hound,
If all else fails, I can highly recommend one of the upgraded SMICs.
I suspect my old original IC was well coated internally. I should have
pulled it apart to have a look inside. Woke the car up no end, airflow was
remarkably improved. The ones listed on Ebay for the MkIV 1.8t will fit
with a little juggling, ~ $100.

 

[Nero Morg]

I didn't even think to look for this when I was at the pick n pull. I really want one but not sure it would fit my glasses

Huh. Didn't ever think about it that it was a wagon only option. I've never used mine lol

 

[tdidieselbobny]

So, on to checking for other leaks. I'll do a quick check of the brake booster hose as well. That hose is getting long in tooth anyway, so while it doesn't seem like a place to check, I'll do it on advice of the good people offering their help. Seriously, thanks guys!

I have to point out though, that since my problem is underboost, a vacuum loss is counter-indicated. That is, no vacuum is what opens the turbocharger vanes fully for maximum boost.

Cheers,

PH

Not sure if you've checked, but check the nipple on vacuum pump-tends to get loose. I fixed mine by taking pump off and JBWeld around base of it.Probably get a new seal for it also before taking apart-also recommend replacing the boost hose from pump to booster, especially if it's the original, about $40 from IDParts. Mine had a crack on backside I didn't see until taking it off....

 

[tdidieselbobny]

I replaced the rear shocks yesterday with orange Koni's, along with the Moog wagon springs from IDParts. I'm happy with the lift so far. Today I'll turn car around and work on the front-struts,springs,brakes,inner tie rods. I will wait till later in week to try my 5th gear fix(drilling,roll pins and red loctite)....also still debating on whether to run the 5x100 to 5x112 adapters to use some VW Lyon wheels that have very good tires,compared to the mostly worn tires on Ronals I'm putting on to get alignment after front end work....not concerned about the rear,just the fronts and if that little extra width on hub will kill the bearings or cv joints....

 

[sriracha]

Huh. Didn't ever think about it that it was a wagon only option. I've never used mine lol

I use mine all the time. It’s the safest spot for my shades and it’s easy to access.

 

[Rrusse11]

I use mine all the time. It’s the safest spot for my shades and it’s easy to access.

I stich loops of 3/4" elastic tape to wrap around the vizor. Available in a
variety of colors, widths, etc at JoAnns or similar. A flat rubber band.

 

[Powder Hound]

No leaks in intake tract, except around the EGR vacuum pot. Replaced that with a "race pipe" I had conveniently laying around, and voila!

No change.

So that wasn't it.

Time to look at the injection pump itself.

Back in November I had to do a reseal as the pump head seal was leaking. But I tooefed the pump putting it back together. I ordered a replacement from Frans, but I'm thinking at this point that it may not have been as checked out as it could have been. I'll take the cover off the QA and see if there's anything there to give it away. Probably not, but you never know. That'll be on Monday; time to take the rest of the weekend off.

Oh, one other thing: my best testing is done with 2nd gear floored go-pedal. Acceleration picks up noticeably on hitting 2800-3000 rpms. To me, that reinforces the notion of the QA on the injection pump having difficulties.

Cheers,

PH

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Well, started off on driver side front.Decided to just do the outer tie rod end, but the Reins complete tie rod I got had ends that were slightly longer than ones on car. So off to Autozone I go, got the Duralast ends that were TRW, which is what came off my car. Strut replaced no problem, on to the brakes. Well, the caliper pretty much told me eff you when I tried to compress it back in...so I checked Advance, the one a little farther away had both of them, so I'll be getting them in morning. $56.99 +$50 core each. Ended up being just under $197 total with core charge after the 25% discount and $5 speed perks I had, so just under $97 after I return cores... I have alignment check set up for Tuesday morning....

 

[gmenounos]

Replaced the driver's seat in the Golf as the seat heater has been broken the past couple of winters. The airbag and seatbelt sensor connectors were different, which made it a bigger job than I was expecting, but luckily I happened to have the appropriate pigtails in my spare parts pile.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Got the new calipers on. Went to passenger side to start work. Dropped the tie rod out, when I was pushing up on control arm noticed the ball joint had slop, but I already had them from when my son had his Jetta, but that means I should go back to drivers side and replace that one also...anyhow, the strut was a moth*****ker to get out.The control arm wouldn't swing down as far as the drivers side,the axle was hitting the front part of control arm. Got the ball joint out and that gave me just enough room to finally get strut out. Before I started the work , I noticed the outer cv boot was torn right next to the small metal clamp on the inside. I took that pinch clamp off,think I might try that Loctite self-fusing wrap seal around it, I don't recall hearing any noises from cv when driving, and there really wasn't much grease spun out, just a little on top of control arm.Don't really want to put another axle in, as it will be one from the local parts store for now if I do.We'll see what fun tomorrow shall bring

 

[csstevej]

Finally got my LH rear door lock changed on my golf.....it was intermittent to unlock....sometimes would stay locked for weeks and would open, when it did I had to disconnect the connector at the door hinge till new lock came in.
Now to try and figure out the Rh rear door......that one hasn’t been opened in 6 months....

 

[red16vdub]

Picked up IBW at the body shop. New fenders and rockers repaired

Ready to continue to 500K miles!

I drop my wagon off a week ago for rocker panel repair, and a complete body and paint overhaul.
I was told about a month before I get it back, So you might just eek out 500k just ahead of me. Lol


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[P2B]

Got the new calipers on. Went to passenger side to start work. Dropped the tie rod out, when I was pushing up on control arm noticed the ball joint had slop, but I already had them from when my son had his Jetta, but that means I should go back to drivers side and replace that one also...anyhow, the strut was a moth*****ker to get out.The control arm wouldn't swing down as far as the drivers side,the axle was hitting the front part of control arm. Got the ball joint out and that gave me just enough room to finally get strut out. Before I started the work , I noticed the outer cv boot was torn right next to the small metal clamp on the inside. I took that pinch clamp off,think I might try that Loctite self-fusing wrap seal around it, I don't recall hearing any noises from cv when driving, and there really wasn't much grease spun out, just a little on top of control arm.Don't really want to put another axle in, as it will be one from the local parts store for now if I do.We'll see what fun tomorrow shall bring

Goop works well for repairing torn CV boots. Clean the area with rubbing alcohol first to ensure a good bond.

Simon

 

[IndigoBlueWagon]

I drop my wagon off a week ago for rocker panel repair, and a complete body and paint overhaul.
I was told about a month before I get it back, So you might just eek out 500k just ahead of me. Lol

I don't know, I'm enjoying driving the '99.5 Golf. I feel like two MKIVs in good shape is an embarrassment of riches.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Finished suspension part of Jetta work, getting alignment done first thing in morning-steering wheel cocked a little bit and does pull right a little. Drivers side strut wasn't fully seated in knuckle, so I loosened pinch bolt up and took it for short ride up road. Strut settled on drive, so tightened pinch bolt back up. Noticed the caliper was weeping out from the line bolt, tightened a smidge to see if that helps. Didn't replace drivers ball joint, I checked it again to make sure no slop in it. Got some rubber plugs for undercar body at pick-n-pull last week. Put all but one in, still lacking 7 or 8. Want to replace them and spray some undercoating or flex seal on them. After alignment in morning, going back up on stands so I can try my fix for the stripped output shaft/5th gear splines....

 

[Nero Morg]

Ran over a screw, thanks to road hazard got a free replacement front right tire.

 

[tdidieselbobny]

Well,took it for alignment- got it ok,but wheel is off center to left now. They recommended I change the left inner tie rod, as threads were all rusted up, possibly damaged threads. So I brought it home, changed it out. Took for another drive, drives ok, steering wheel still off, but now I hear a clunk every once in awhile from passenger side when turning right.I ordered some control arms with bushings, I'll change out the other inner tie rod, do the drivers ball joint with control arm when it comes in, work on exhaust, as the pipe is cracked on bottom in front of the cat. I got some underbody plugs at pick-n-pull today, now to put them in...good thing I'm on vacation this week...

 

[gmenounos]

Replaced the passenger side airbag in the Golf as it's been logging an "Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N131): Resistance too High" code for many months. (Yes I tried unplugging/plugging both the airbag controller connector and the connector at the airbag and it didn't fix it).

Any idea where to dispose of a used airbag?

 

[JDSwan87]

Replaced the passenger side airbag in the Golf as it's been logging an "Airbag Igniter; Passenger Side (N131): Resistance too High" code for many months. (Yes I tried unplugging/plugging both the airbag controller connector and the connector at the airbag and it didn't fix it).

Any idea where to dispose of a used airbag?

It only takes a 9v battery to discharge it. Once it's discharged, I believe it can just go in the trash.

 

[Nero Morg]

Got stuck helping a friend change a timing belt on his Subaru... As in I watched mostly because quad cams aren't fun. While watching spent some time doing some much needed cleaning on my car. Windshields are always annoying to get every little smudge out.
Also installed my sway bar bushings finally, and fixed my brake pad wear wire. No more thinking or beeps.

 

[PakProtector]

It only takes a 9v battery to discharge it. Once it's discharged, I believe it can just go in the trash.

It is slightly lower than that; even the 4-ish volts of a hand held DMM Ohms resistance check will set one off. The resistance checking is done at very low voltage( from dealers, a special, low voltage resistance checker made for that purpose ). It is a rather spectacular thing to be near an air bag that is set off thusly... But as JD said, a 9V is *MORE* than adequate to set one off; just don't be too near it when that happens, and recall Newton, every action has an equal and opposite reaction. When the bag gets blasted in one direction, the rest of it goes in the other.

The propellant should be considered a low grade explosive.
cheers,
Douglas

 

[hey_allen]

A long wire extension is not a bad thing, if you're going to trigger the airbag.
Putting the metal side down on pavement isn't a bad idea, just to keep it from being launched and then landing on something at random.

 

[romad]

A long wire extension is not a bad thing, if you're going to trigger the airbag.
Putting the metal side down on pavement isn't a bad idea, just to keep it from being launched and then landing on something at random.

Actually that is the exact procedure in my Miata shop manual for preparing to dispose of an airbag. I don't have the manual available right now or I could see what length of wire they say to use. BTW, if you have access to a tire inflation cage, it might be good to put the airbag in it (face up, of course).

 

[Dh4276]

Changed the turbo end of the charge hose with a Kerma adapter today, much tighter fit and no wiggle now. Hopefully this will finally stop my boost leak there. This make the third or fourth attempt and it keeps coming back. As tight as this adapter is though I think this will do it.

Now to find my fuel leak around the back of the engine. Noticed I had some fuel on the back of the motor(transmission end) while I was under the car. Hoping it’s not the tandem pump!

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[eddieleephd]

Haven't checked that yet. Not specifically. I did, however, check the N75 directly to see how much vacuum it was producing for the actuator, and whether the vacuum was slow in coming or going. It was fine.



My problem is when you graph the boost, it is slowly ramping up to the requested level. I was wondering if the N75 was slow in releasing the vacuum, and it is not. My vacuum gauge shows the vacuum disappears immediately (well, very quickly), and since that is the action that causes the vanes to open up for full boost, then that part of the equation is OK. Similarly, the actuator lever on the turbocharger is moving easily and rapidly when the actuator moves.





Visual inspection seems OK, but I need to find a way to check the integrity of these. If there's a leak, it isn't enough to make a loud enough sound to think it is there. But my ears might not be catching the right frequencies due to my tinitis. I think a pressure test where I put compressed air into the hose at the turbocharger discharge from the impeller is needed. I'll have to figure out how to do this.



Nope. N75 output shows this is not the problem. It's acting like a boost leak.

I've not seen evidence of this. A new replacement acts the same, and unplugging makes it even worse.

No longer part of the equation. One thing I did a few days ago was to replace the intake manifold since mine was a little occluded. Most of the blockage was in the EGR valve assembly itself, but I did both of them anyway. Somehow the pesky EGR cooler didn't make it back into the car, so there's temporary block off plates installed until I get this checked out. I also installed a test device of my own design that prevents the EGR codes from being set.

As above, not part of the equation at this time.

As previously stated, I tested this directly. I put my mighty vac on the N75 output directly and it was perfect while testing with engine running and VCDS was running the N75 output test. The actuator also holds vacuum and exercises its motion correctly. That it does it while attached to the turbocharger lever shows that the turbocharger vanes are also operating.

N18. Not part of the equation at this time. For testing, my device bypasses it.

I don't think so, you've done a comprehensive listing of all the components. I think the next step is to figure out where the boost leak is. That is the way it seems to be operating to me - a leak not quite large enough to drain all the boost, but enough to greatly slow the buildup of manifold pressure.



There could be a junction that I'm not seeing, or the new-to-me seemingly good replacement intercooler isn't as good as it seems. It is hard to tell. Another possibility is that the turbocharger's turbine section is horribly occluded by soot buildup, but my thinking right now is that if so, it isn't affecting the vane motion, but yet is so hard as to completely resist the multiple application of oven cleaner chemical cleaning operations. There's no hint of soot discharge after.



I think some soapy water on the outside, and compressed air on the inside of the post turbocharger air intake tract may be my best bet.



One last place to look that I didn't do and should have is the hard pipe between the turbocharger and intercooler. That thing might be where the clog is. Hmmm, should have tried that sooner. Maybe I just need a new hard pipe.



Cheers,



PH

The thing I haven't seen you say you tried are pulling the turbo, or simply trying to torque the turbo down, and adjusting the actuator.
I had my turbo loosen up and didn't realize it until my engine was sitting on the ground.
If the actuator isn't properly adjusted it will under boost or over boost....
Those are what you need to check now In that order also.

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