What did you do to your MKIV today?

[JDSwan87]

VW part numbers for..... the vented right one?

https://www.idparts.com/vented-fender-liner-oem-a4-p-1063.html

 

[romad]

https://www.idparts.com/vented-fender-liner-oem-a4-p-1063.html

Thanks, I've put them on a wishlist.

 

[Caddy 16v]

Finished my exhaust project, sounds so sweet now, like a mini Duramax, definitely not for everyone. [emoji16]

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[sriracha]

Thanks, I've put them on a wishlist.

I was able to get the fender liners direct from the VW Dealership parts department. Guy at the parts counter gave me a price I couldn't resist.

According to my local guru, the vented right fender liner is great for eliminating heat soak from the SMIC and that it makes a difference.

Thanks for supplying the links, above.

 

[sriracha]

Got more OEM. Parts in. Now to find the time to install them..

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I also have the 4-motion vent connection tubes for the back of the motor and transmission, but I don't recognize the one on the right. What is that for?

 

[sriracha]

Classed it up a bit with some VW OEM wood trim:

 

[Nuje]

While doing a timing belt job, figured we might as well replace the thermostat given that the factory one was 15yrs. and 260K km old and that mileage is roughly where I've failures or leaks on three other vehicles; and it'd be so easy because the coolant is already totally drained out.

Imagine my dismay when taking it for a drive and on a cool evening (18C), watching the temp climb to 98C and hover at 94-95C as I cruised on the freeway at 110km/h.

So, drained all the coolant and got a(nother) new one.

Here's the problem child (on the left) compared to the old one, at around 95C on the cooktop.

 

[jmodge]

That is a touch over 200f, just about right. Seems like it should have opened in your test though.

 

[Blacktree]

Today, I started the "let's stop this annoying limp mode BS" project. Lately, the car has been experiencing lack of turbo boost, sluggish engine performance, and what seems to be limp mode. But it never sets a trouble code, and no codes are stored. That's kind of annoying.

Since the MAF and EGR valve are both good (recently replaced), I focused on the turbo itself. I noticed the VNT actuator was getting crusty, and replaced it. While I was replacing the actuator, I noticed the VNT vanes were sticking. So I worked the lever back and forth manually, until it moved freely.

That made no change. The engine still was sluggish, still didn't make much boost. So then I tried the "oven cleaner down the EGR port" trick. That worked great... for about a week. Then it went back to the low boost / low power stuff again. And the VNT lever started sticking again.

So I decided to remove the turbo and give it a good cleaning. I also noticed the EGR valve and intake manifold were getting gunked up again (I cleaned them about 25k miles ago, replaced the EGR valve about 20k miles ago). I'm starting to understand why people tweak the EGR adaptation with VCDS. Below is a shot of the gunked-up EGR valve.

And a shot of the manifolds, removed from the car.

This time around, I used the blow-torch method to clean out the intake manifold. That was kinda fun.

But disassembling the turbo is NOT fun. The exhaust housing bolts really did not want to come out. It took some persuading. Now the exhaust housing doesn't want to separate from the center section. I doused it in PB Blaster, and called it a night.

Hopefully things go better tomorrow.

 

[Nero Morg]

Helped my friend upgrade his stock manual injectors to .205's. They didn't want to cooperate.

 

[KrashDH]

^^^now that's some redneck engineering!!

 

[mr.loops]

Classed it up a bit with some VW OEM wood trim:

Looks good[emoji106]


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[BakoTDI]

That made no change. The engine still was sluggish, still didn't make much boost. So then I tried the "oven cleaner down the EGR port" trick. That worked great... for about a week. Then it went back to the low boost / low power stuff again. And the VNT lever started sticking again.

Have you considered a new N75 valve?

 

[BakoTDI]

Helped my friend upgrade his stock manual injectors to .205's. They didn't want to cooperate.

I bought the tool from metalnerd and it worked great (slowly collecting tools)

 

[Nero Morg]

I bought the tool from metalnerd and it worked great (slowly collecting tools)

The tool attached to the injector is actually a slide hammer for these VP injectors. They were just that stuck. So put a little tension on it with the cherry picker, then used a crows foot to rotate them back and forth until they popped out.

 

[mr.loops]

Breaking in my rebuilt engine for 20 mins @ 2500 rpm when this goddamn thing decides to blow up half way in. My fault for using an old part- lesson learned

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[BobnOH]

Thing looks like it was hit will a hammer.
That photo is 6 times too big. Make it like 400x600

 

[PakProtector]

If you silicone-ed an o-ring, you'll learn another lesson soon...
cheers,
Douglas

 

[Blacktree]

Have you considered a new N75 valve?

I forgot to mention, I replaced that previously. I also checked the N75, EGR valve, and VNT actuator (multiple times) with a MityVac.

Anyway, on with the project. Today, I disassembled the turbo and cleaned it out. There was A LOT of gunk in there! So I really went after it, with oven cleaner. Here's the result:

The turbo has just a little radial end-play (maybe 0.5mm?), and almost no axial play. It also consumes very little engine oil (1/2 quart between oil changes, 10k mile service interval). And there's no damage to the impellers or housings. So I think it's safe to say the turbo is still good. It was just dirty... really dirty.

After re-assembling everything, I went for a test drive and was pleasantly surprised. The car has plenty of get-up-and-go. And the turbo makes boost!

This makes me very happy.

 

[03TDICommuter]

Today, I disassembled the turbo and cleaned it out. There was A LOT of gunk in there! But I Hosed it down with oven cleaner, multiple times. Here's the result:

Looks great! Congrats!

I'm about to open mine up again to figure out a low boost problem. Doesn't boost until about 2500 RPM and overall is sluggish. Actuator moves smoothly, no leaks from the turbo vnt actuator. Already replaced N75 and N18 valve, all vacuum lines and MAF twice.

 

[Blacktree]

Cleaning out the turbo made a HUGE difference!

I can watch the boost pressure on my ScanGauge. Back when the car was running normally, the turbo would make maybe 8-9 psi in spirited driving. When it started acting sluggish, the boost dropped to 3-4 psi. And of course, limp mode dropped it to almost nothing. Earlier this evening, going up a hill I saw the boost pressure hit 16 psi. That's more than this car has ever produced, since I've owned it. It's like a completely different car now.

 

[Blacktree]

Looks great! Congrats!

I'm about to open mine up again to figure out a low boost problem. Doesn't boost until about 2500 RPM and overall is sluggish. Actuator moves smoothly, no leaks from the turbo vnt actuator. Already replaced N75 and N18 valve, all vacuum lines and MAF twice.

I've seen VNT turbos act like that if the vanes and the turbine wheel interfere with each other. The wheel and the vanes grind each other down, until the interference goes away. And it makes for a really laggy turbo. Hopefully, your issue is something less catastrophic.

 

[sriracha]

I installed replacement lower dash panels under the steering wheel. Removed the soft-touch from the lower panels, fuse panel and steering column plastics. Also, before installation, I reinforced the cracked screw-attachment locations with JB Weld and metal washers. Everything looks Piano-Black-new and is completely rattle free after being snugged down.

 

[TDIGAZ]

Replaced my manual transmission fluid. It was probably the original oil that was in there, so at 458,320 km I'd say it was (over)due.
Drained the old oil out and added new Pennzoil Synchromesh, which many people on here have good results with.
My shifting was a bit "notchy" before, so I'll see if there's any difference with the Synchromesh.

 

[csstevej]

My daughters car replaced a failed RH ABS sensor and swapped out both her LCA’s with the spare rebuilt I have.

On my car I changed out the thermostat and housing due to car running about 10-14 degrees hotter than usually, it’s good now.

 

[BakoTDI]

My daughters car replaced a failed RH ABS sensor

What kind of issues did you see with the bad ABS sensor? I have both giving me issues. I get the ABS light on ALL THE TIME and the Brake light blinks just as soon as the wheels move as well as 3 beeps as soon as that light starts blinking. So annoying.


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[romad]

On the successful side, installed new E-codes with GLASS lenses:

On the UN-successful side, tried to install the ES-416 front fog wiring kit from ECS Tuning but the longer yellow wire for the pax headlight connector is too short by several inches/centimeters. I have to call their parts guy on Tuesday to find out why. I'll probably have splice in a section of wire in the middle as on end is in the relay connector and the other end has the pin that goes into headlight connector.

 

[Cleenlivin]

While I was changing the oil, I noticed the drivers side area near the inner CV joint was a trail of grease. The joint boot was split. I had another complete axle available, replaced the bad one and will fix it later.

 

[csstevej]

What kind of issues did you see with the bad ABS sensor? I have both giving me issues. I get the ABS light on ALL THE TIME and the Brake light blinks just as soon as the wheels move as well as 3 beeps as soon as that light starts blinking. So annoying.


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Mainly I saw the abs light was on.
I scanned it with VCDS and gave me an error in circuit or wiring rh wheel.
Swapped in a new sensor and was able to reset the light.
With the old sensor the light would not reset.

 

[KrashDH]

Got my Sigma 5 short shifter kit installed and dialed. Love it so far