Cross post from the other forum... if I can get this thread to open in Tapatalk I'll add pictures, sometimes it opens, others times it doesn't...
Replaced engine and transmission mounts with 034 mounts, all new hardware. Got the wife to tighten bolts while I kept the engine/transmission in place. Found that out of the factory my transmission mount was slightly misaligned. That might explain why a dogbone insert gave me unbearable vibration... who knows? Anyway, engine mount is a little more annoying on a diesel, extra stuff in the way.
I also see why no one shows the TDI in their fitment guides. New engine mount is missing a mounting point for an existing bracket, but the bracket has 2 other mount points so is in no danger of moving around. The Superpro engine mount (which is no longer available) does show that mounting point but I don't think the TDI was on their fitment list either.
Blah blah blah... my stock mounts, once removed, could be flexed by hand which I assume isn't good. Went for a drive and it feels better going through the gears. I don't launch the car but getting a smooth start with low-medium throttle was easier.
MOST importantly to me, no noticeable difference in noise or vibration, even with the A/C on. Very happy that 034's claims held up in that regard. Their dogbone inserts will get installed in conjunction with the aluminum subframe, hopefully 2 weekends from now.
Did you install the Street density dogbone inserts or the billet aluminum? I’m doing the 034 street density engine and trans mounts, I’m just unsure on which dogbone insert to try next. I’m probably going to install both upper and lower 034 aluminum inserts to reduce wheel hop/engine mount damage. I can’t relive my last NVH experience, it was rattling my fillings out.My current setup is 034 engine and transmission mount and 034 upper and lower dog bone inserts. It's perfect to me. No added vibrations even with A/C on. Shifting feels great. There's a little more transmission noise but in a good way. And it's not being converted to vibrations.
I had the correct power flex insert, diesel specific... It was unbearable.
Installed these engine/transmission mounts...
034Motorsport is proud to introduce Density Line Performance Engine/Transmission Mounts for 8V/8S Audi A3/S3/TT/TTS & MkVII Volkswagen Golf/GTI/R! 034Motorsport's Street Density Mounts for MQB platform vehicles deliver unmatched levels of comfort and performance. Density Line Drivetrain Mounts...store.034motorsport.com
Billet Aluminum MQB Upper Dogbone Mount Insert, MkVII VW Golf/GTI/R, MkVII VW GLI, 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & MkIII Audi TT/TTS/TTRSUnited States Design Patent D886,689 S The 034Motorsport MQB Upper Dogbone Mount Insert (patent pending) is required for any MQB platform MkVII VW Golf/GTI/R, MkVII VW GLI, 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & MkIII Audi TT/TTS/TTRS using an aftermarket dogbone mount and lower dogbone mount insert...store.034motorsport.com(Version 1, for early Mk7s)
Billet Aluminum MQB Lower Dogbone Mount Insert, MkVII VW Golf/GTI/R, MkVII VW GLI, 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & MkIII Audi TT/TTS/TTRSThe 034Motorsport Billet Aluminum MQB Lower Dogbone Mount Insert for MkVII Volkswagen Golf/GTI/R, 8V/8V.5 Audi A3/S3/RS3 & MkIII Audi TT/TTS/TTRS is designed to fill the large void in the factory dogbone mount, and limit drivetrain movement without sacrificing ride quality or introducing...store.034motorsport.com
I picked up touch-up paint from my local dealer. It matched perfectly but it was a paint pen. Didn’t even know spray paint was an option.Put the first coat of VW OEM touch-up (spray) paint on my (to be retrofitted) parking sensors....and I'm not liking the look of the paint. It seems WAY too dark - closer to "charcoal" metallic than "platinum grey" metallic. Might have to go back to VW to see if they ordered the wrong paint code.
The spec sheet lists the paint code as "2R2R", but everywhere I look online has 2R2R being the same product as LD7X. Not sure how that LLSD7X from my spray can plays into the equation.
dwu.048 installed a set of those a while ago (earlier in this thread, I think).
Don’t have a build thread but I can take pics when I install it. Going to be a while tho, I’ve been waiting on a back ordered part from darkside. Once received i will still have to weld a bung into their aluminum charge pipe for the nozzle.Details on the meth kit... not for me, for a friend. Do you have a build thread somewhere?
Don’t have a build thread but I can take pics when I install it. Going to be a while tho, I’ve been waiting on a back ordered part from darkside. Once received i will still have to weld a bung into their aluminum charge pipe for the nozzle.
I’m going with a basic Snow performance stage 1. That’s Darksides preferred kit. The boost switch is very basic and never fails. I only want max spray the last 10% boost to keep things cool and safe (#3 nozzle). I will be wiring in an on/off toggle so I can disable the system (I thought about using an unused button near the ESC area buttons but it seems a bit complicated).
Im going to mount a small tank on the back of the rear seat (driver side). The pump will go in the spare tire well. Electrical and meth lines will follow along the footwell trim inside the vehicle and exit out the grommet behind the battery. The boost switch and relay will be right near the battery. The meth lines will enter a bracket mounted solenoid off the battery tray. From there it’s only another 12” -4AN jumper into the bung on the charge pipe just before the 90* at the charge air cooler. I’ll be using all stainless lines with -4AN fittings. When using stainless it seems the solenoid has to go after the pump. When using rubber lines most people go before the pump vacuum side and place a check valve down near the nozzle. I’m not comfortable putting everything in the engine bay. I feel it’s safer having the meth in the trunk and I pretty much never have my rear seat down so I’m not too concerned about the rear seat mounted tank. I will still be able to lower the rear seats with the AN line length I’m using.
Not too much out there is going to get you 15 whp and torque for 400 bucks, all while keeping your engine clean and EGTs down.
The install below is a very similar route. I believe his solenoid is off his headlight bracket and his pump is in the location I would use if I ran a spare tire (which I dont) but it’s very similar to my routing.
16 Golf R DSG -Injen EVO Intake -CTS throttle elbow -Spulen throttle pipe -RS7 plugs -BMS JB4 *****This is a work in progress and will be updated as I go along***** https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5551/31676380262_de23ef9485_b.jpgforums.vwvortex.com
Rear B4 Damptronic dampers, rear GTI springs, and rear height/level sensor (already there if your car has LP). the DCC retrofit continues.
Found that IRS rear damper lower bushing is 60mm wide while ours is only 45mm. This means the DCC damper bushing won't fit into the opening of the torsion beam. Switched the inner bushing from my original rear dampers. This requires some heat and a press/vice/makeshift whatever you want to use. Quite a pain and not recommended but it can be done.
Also had a scary moment when I realized the offshoot for the DCC damper connector would not clear the DEF tank on the passenger side (if installed facing in-board, like the driver side. Thankfully, it clears the hub if with the offshoot facing outboard. Very tight clearance when the suspension is unloaded but as the suspension gets loaded the arc of the torsion beam moves it further away creating more clearance... dodged a bullet there, which I had not considered, at all.
Also installed proper rear ABS sensors for ACC and rear cross traffic something or the other.
Thats funny, my other vehicle is a Jeep too (non diesel). I put a twin screw supercharger on that and thought about adding meth but it’s not something I want to deal with while Offroad.I ran Water Meth on my Jeep (see my sig for Jeep details). Its fun but the Meth will raise your EGT's at first before they drop. After a while the meth was getting expensive so I have not used it for while. I like your build looks great
Not sure it would work, reference thr last post in this thread. It would also require removal of the DEF tank and I'm in California so that's a non-starter for me. As it stands, there aren't any clearance issues once you switch the lower damper bushing to the one that will fit into the torsion beam.How much work involved to switch to a MK7 GTD IRS rear setup? That should resolve any clearance issues, no?
I have found the RT43s pretty good in the snow. And I noticed recently the ones on my MKIV are a little over half worn after 55K miles. Not bad.2 weeks ago on the 2nd, I had some General Altimax RT43's installed on the GSW. Figured I'd see how well new all seasons handle the winter, if I don't like them in snow, I'll put the Arctics on. Ended up being $480 total out the door. All the Ecopias that were on car had less than 1/2 tread, 2 only about 4/32.