Votblindub
Veteran Member
How do you do that? 0.o
What did you do to your car today?
- Thread starter 97B4TDi
- Start date
Cha2ga
Veteran Member
Changed out my large radiator fan on my 00 NewBeetle. That was easy. Pull it out from bottom. 30 minutes from the time I put in on the ramps.
Drove it yesterday! Recently had the front end taken care of...I had a 2003 Jetta wagon that was totaled, and I picked up a 2002 Jetta to "replace it"...with parts I had for the wagon. New A-arms, Koni FSD front struts, tie rod ends, ball joints...an alignment, and new Bridgestone Ecopia tires.
I got the FSD kit from IDParts.
But the rear shocks were on the wagon when it got totaled. So, I need to get some shocks. Front end was really loose, and the tires were...tired. Pretty nice right now!
I got the FSD kit from IDParts.
But the rear shocks were on the wagon when it got totaled. So, I need to get some shocks. Front end was really loose, and the tires were...tired. Pretty nice right now!Bought a 'new' 2002 Passat with 220.000 kms a few weeks ago to replace the 2000 one. The old one had a little over 1.000.000 kms on it (+- 630.000 miles). The clutch was going out and there was an awful noise starting to come from the engine, it was losing a lot of oil, but hey, after such mileage, it's no shame. It always served me well but was really starting to fall apart lately.
So I found a really nice b5 sport, 130 AVF 1.9 tdi, fresco green, all tinted windows, a few bumps and scratches here and there but nothing really bad, all in all a great looking car, and mechanically in very good condition. Not perfect, but no bad vibrations at idle of the interior, gear lever or engine, great power, great tyres, new front disks and pads, new shocks, no problems in the drive train, no significant faults reported.
After working on a 1.000.000 km car I know about a lot of quirks and things that can go wrong with these cars so I decided to do the following in the past week:
- Engine + gear oil change + all filters changed.
-Installation of dimple magnetic plug (I found a lot of metal flakes in the oil that was weeping out the intake hoses, looks like a turbo has failed at some point, also because the intercooler seems rather new, or the engine has been blowing metal from the slightly worn camshaft).
-Coolant flush (it was yellow, not sure if it was G12 or compatible)
-Power steering fluid flush (was brownish)
-Thermostat replaced (was defective, temperature too low)
-Installation of a no-return check valve in the fuel line
-Installation of hose clamps to secure boost hoses
-Replacement of joints in boost hoses (with thermostat rings as they seal much better)
-Insulation tape on boost hose going down from turbo to protect against heat
-Interior lights replaced with LED lights, waking lights replaced with LEDs and all others with white halogen
-Cruise control retrofit
-Blacksmoke remap installed (165 BHP), includes EGR delete
-Intake has been totally cleaned out (Removed gunk from EGR and Manifold, took out coked oil and dirt from hose coming from air intake going to turbo).
-EGR block-off plate installed to prevent exhaust gasses pushing out through the EGR pipe causing pressure loss
-EGR weeping holes filled with silicone because they were leaking oil
-Removed the fan clutch: this gives more and smoother power, but especally dramatically decreases warm up time without causing overheating
-Replaced most of the vacuum hoses with silicone hoses
-Replaced some of the fuel hoses with braided hoses
-Replaced the front motor mount
There is one thing left to do and that's to clean the driver's door switch, since it doesn't give a signal that it's open or closed, making the doors close automatically when they're not supposed to.
Next I will do the timing belt kit + pulleys etc.
The camshaft is somewhat worn on 2 lobes in particular, but nothing that seems to affect performance. I may change it a little later.
The car was already a pleasure to drive when I bought it, now it feels very clean, very smooth, very fast, and is very economical (If I pulse and glide I can get lower than 4.3 l/100 km = 66 UK MPG, when driving normally about 53 UK MPG = 5.3L/100 KM).
I was a little worried about injector seals being worn due to a laggy cold start, needing a few turnovers to get going, but this seems to have been solved after doing all the maintenance work. Would do this when replacing the camshaft.
Working on these cars can be very stressful I think, when you're in tight positions with risk of breaking stuff in case you forget something.
The cruise control was a bit of a pain as well, but the only reason was that I had made a mistake with 1 wire.
Now some may ask how it's possible to go up to 1.000.000 KM with these cars: just drive on highways and change the oil. That's basically all that the previous owner did (I bought it at 833.000 KM).
The engine was original, never rebuilt, other than injector seals which I had changed since they were so far gone that even when the car was parked nose down, it had difficulties starting and blew lots of white smoke.
I wrote to VW France saying I had a 1.000.000 car and if they couldn't give me a new one, but instead they gave me 200 euros to spend on a repair in a garage, so I used it for the injector seals (no money to get a new car).
Since I have 800.000 more KMs to do with my new car, I think this will be the last passat for a long time
Hope this is helpful for people buying a used Passat and wanting to restore it.
So I found a really nice b5 sport, 130 AVF 1.9 tdi, fresco green, all tinted windows, a few bumps and scratches here and there but nothing really bad, all in all a great looking car, and mechanically in very good condition. Not perfect, but no bad vibrations at idle of the interior, gear lever or engine, great power, great tyres, new front disks and pads, new shocks, no problems in the drive train, no significant faults reported.
After working on a 1.000.000 km car I know about a lot of quirks and things that can go wrong with these cars so I decided to do the following in the past week:
- Engine + gear oil change + all filters changed.
-Installation of dimple magnetic plug (I found a lot of metal flakes in the oil that was weeping out the intake hoses, looks like a turbo has failed at some point, also because the intercooler seems rather new, or the engine has been blowing metal from the slightly worn camshaft).
-Coolant flush (it was yellow, not sure if it was G12 or compatible)
-Power steering fluid flush (was brownish)
-Thermostat replaced (was defective, temperature too low)
-Installation of a no-return check valve in the fuel line
-Installation of hose clamps to secure boost hoses
-Replacement of joints in boost hoses (with thermostat rings as they seal much better)
-Insulation tape on boost hose going down from turbo to protect against heat
-Interior lights replaced with LED lights, waking lights replaced with LEDs and all others with white halogen
-Cruise control retrofit
-Blacksmoke remap installed (165 BHP), includes EGR delete
-Intake has been totally cleaned out (Removed gunk from EGR and Manifold, took out coked oil and dirt from hose coming from air intake going to turbo).
-EGR block-off plate installed to prevent exhaust gasses pushing out through the EGR pipe causing pressure loss
-EGR weeping holes filled with silicone because they were leaking oil
-Removed the fan clutch: this gives more and smoother power, but especally dramatically decreases warm up time without causing overheating
-Replaced most of the vacuum hoses with silicone hoses
-Replaced some of the fuel hoses with braided hoses
-Replaced the front motor mount
There is one thing left to do and that's to clean the driver's door switch, since it doesn't give a signal that it's open or closed, making the doors close automatically when they're not supposed to.
Next I will do the timing belt kit + pulleys etc.
The camshaft is somewhat worn on 2 lobes in particular, but nothing that seems to affect performance. I may change it a little later.
The car was already a pleasure to drive when I bought it, now it feels very clean, very smooth, very fast, and is very economical (If I pulse and glide I can get lower than 4.3 l/100 km = 66 UK MPG, when driving normally about 53 UK MPG = 5.3L/100 KM).
I was a little worried about injector seals being worn due to a laggy cold start, needing a few turnovers to get going, but this seems to have been solved after doing all the maintenance work. Would do this when replacing the camshaft.
Working on these cars can be very stressful I think, when you're in tight positions with risk of breaking stuff in case you forget something.
The cruise control was a bit of a pain as well, but the only reason was that I had made a mistake with 1 wire.
Now some may ask how it's possible to go up to 1.000.000 KM with these cars: just drive on highways and change the oil. That's basically all that the previous owner did (I bought it at 833.000 KM).
The engine was original, never rebuilt, other than injector seals which I had changed since they were so far gone that even when the car was parked nose down, it had difficulties starting and blew lots of white smoke.
I wrote to VW France saying I had a 1.000.000 car and if they couldn't give me a new one, but instead they gave me 200 euros to spend on a repair in a garage, so I used it for the injector seals (no money to get a new car).
Since I have 800.000 more KMs to do with my new car, I think this will be the last passat for a long time
Hope this is helpful for people buying a used Passat and wanting to restore it.
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That Guy
Veteran Member
Wholly crap ApacheNL! That's a lot of work done.
All I did with mine today was to drive it to work. And my KMs are low...about 170,000Km I think. Probably gonna have this car for a very long time.
All I did with mine today was to drive it to work. And my KMs are low...about 170,000Km I think. Probably gonna have this car for a very long time.
Just got done installing pre loaded control arms from Bora Parts, L/R new knuckles pre loaded from ECS, ball joints, tie rod ends, and new pads/rotors in the 03 Jetta Wagon.
I had to cut off the old outer tie rods, cut out the metal around the stuck abs sensors, and had to cut the brake dust shield out since the rotor was fused to the hub. Overall it was pretty darn easy work.
The lack of worn out bearing noise in the cabin is....nice
I had to cut off the old outer tie rods, cut out the metal around the stuck abs sensors, and had to cut the brake dust shield out since the rotor was fused to the hub. Overall it was pretty darn easy work.
The lack of worn out bearing noise in the cabin is....nice
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smopoim86
Veteran Member
I replaced an injector seal in the wagon. I'm a little puzzled as to what caused it to start leaking. There wasn't an obvious failure point on the washer I removed.
GreenLantern_TDI
Veteran Member
Finally installed the insulation and such to the front doors of my MKV Jetta to stop the bass rattles. Took 2 hours and worked out great. No more rattles.
SoKYTDi
Veteran Member
it's been a while since I've posted...
But, I replaced my water pump, timing belt and associated hardware, serpentine belt and tried to figure out why I'm not boosting. It acts like limp mode, only I build boost as I build rpms.
But, I replaced my water pump, timing belt and associated hardware, serpentine belt and tried to figure out why I'm not boosting. It acts like limp mode, only I build boost as I build rpms.
Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
Replaced the Treo (local tolling) decal on the Jetta....but of course, it couldn't go smoothly.
Went to peel off the old one (that was registered to previous owner), but of course, that turned into a mess, so in trying to work around the mirror to get all of the glue residue off the windshield, I inadvertently yank off the mirror.
So, fine - now I have more room to maneuver to get all of that gunk off. Which I do - nice and clean. Put the new sticker on. Go to pop the rear view mirror back on...not so easy. Doesn't want to go. Push a little harder....nope. Change position to get a little more force behind it (raise your hand if you know how this ends...). Nope.
Lean back against the armrest to apply a bit more force....CRACK! goes the windshield.
Yay me.
(And THEN, I come into the house and search "replace rear view mirror tdiclub.com" and find out that it TWISTS on/off, not "pop-straight" on/off...).
F-iretr-uck.
Went to peel off the old one (that was registered to previous owner), but of course, that turned into a mess, so in trying to work around the mirror to get all of the glue residue off the windshield, I inadvertently yank off the mirror.
So, fine - now I have more room to maneuver to get all of that gunk off. Which I do - nice and clean. Put the new sticker on. Go to pop the rear view mirror back on...not so easy. Doesn't want to go. Push a little harder....nope. Change position to get a little more force behind it (raise your hand if you know how this ends...). Nope.
Lean back against the armrest to apply a bit more force....CRACK! goes the windshield.
Yay me.
(And THEN, I come into the house and search "replace rear view mirror tdiclub.com" and find out that it TWISTS on/off, not "pop-straight" on/off...).
F-iretr-uck.
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Votblindub
Veteran Member
I may have rounded out one of the bolts on the intake manifold. Those are so frustrating!
That Guy
Veteran Member
I hear ya. Did two on mine...the hard ones near the back. It's like they are made out of butter. I even had the correct bit and tools. I hope I never have to take that off again.
Changed my tires, finally, this weekend.
Scrubbed off any rust where I could find it under the car and on the hitch, and painted with some heavy duty rocker panel paint.
Also touched up the paint on my brake calipers.
And I discovered that an electrical issue that I thought I had fixed, is back.
I narrowed it down to either the drivers side door lock module, or the Comfort control module. After replacing the door lock module (which had never before been serviced or replaced) the problem went away....for months. Now in the last 3 weeks I've had 2 or 3 issues with the front doors and the alarm, and now all the lights are dimming again when turning on anything else electrical....which was the original issue I've been trying to track down for 2 years. The problem is that it was intermittent. Sometimes it would go away for days.
I had a relay in the CCM fixed maybe 8 years ago. It would stick and cause the signal lights on one side of the car to stay on (no blinking, just on), even when the car was turned off. Had to disconnect the battery to turn them off.
Anyway, discovered the issue. Took the relay off the board, opened and cleaned it up, put it all back together, and it worked perfectly. A friend who works on robots and electronics for the police did it for me, so it was done really well.
Now I strongly suspect that the CCM has some other intermittent issue. It's about the only thing left to try. And it's related to all the systems that have been having issues these last 2 years.
Intermittent electrical issues are such a PITA to figure out.
And ya, I've checked and cleaned the grounds, fuses, wires, switches, etc. etc more than once. And replaced some parts.
Votblindub
Veteran Member
My sedan was tough to break loose, but once it was loose, it came out just fine. Everything around the EGR on the wagon is fighting me. I have 4 different 6mm tools I can use to get the bolts out, they just don't go. I stopped working on that. I need to wait for my manifold to come in anyway. I will get to work on test fitting other charge pipes, getting silicone couplers and a couple more runs of pipe.I hear ya. Did two on mine...the hard ones near the back. It's like they are made out of butter. I even had the correct bit and tools. I hope I never have to take that off again.
Caddy 16v
Veteran Member
Busy weekend with the Golf, fixed the damage the previous owner left us. I have to say it is not pretty but waaaay better looking than before. I'm not a body shop professional, this was my first try on an actual vehicle and the damage was rather substantial.
Started out with this, the dealer was quoted $4000 to fix it!
I pulled most of the dents a couple months ago with the help of a friend.
Then Saturday went to work:
Bondo, sand, bondo, sand, so annoying
Finally after a full day of puttying was able to paint:
And all done, could use a bit more buffing out the overspray...
[/IMG]
Started out with this, the dealer was quoted $4000 to fix it!
I pulled most of the dents a couple months ago with the help of a friend.
Then Saturday went to work:
Bondo, sand, bondo, sand, so annoying
Finally after a full day of puttying was able to paint:
And all done, could use a bit more buffing out the overspray...
FJ40Jim
Veteran Member
Swapped out the dead alternator, which fixed the dead battery problem.
Swapped out the T-stat, which fixed the low gage reading and weak heater problem.
2 wins in 1 day of wrenching, Huzzah!
Swapped out the T-stat, which fixed the low gage reading and weak heater problem.
2 wins in 1 day of wrenching, Huzzah!
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Passed inspection. Now I can put the "fun" ECU back in.
Nope... my windows work like normal since doing the same mod.
dgar
Active member
Last week was Crank Position Sensor and Coolant Temperature Sensor. This morning I replaced the driver's side tie rod and ball joint. First time. Hard to screw it up with such ridiculously helpful walkthroughs like this one: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=812195
Of course, I did end up with an extra nut.... I think idparts shipped me two tie rod nuts and I used one on the ball joint. Any opinions on leaving it? Unlike the flanged OE nut it had nylon lock threads on it.
Of course, I did end up with an extra nut.... I think idparts shipped me two tie rod nuts and I used one on the ball joint. Any opinions on leaving it? Unlike the flanged OE nut it had nylon lock threads on it.
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Nuje
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2005
- Location
- Island near Vancouver
- TDI
- 2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
The only thing I've noticed (both the 2003 Jetta and 2002 Golf) is that I have to be quite close to the car for it to work. Like, I can lock/unlock the car from maybe 20m away, but to do something with the windows, I have to be within probably 5-7m.
speed185187
Veteran Member
Last thursday was rear rotors, calipers, and pads.
Over the weekend was full TB change and a Colt stg3 cam, and new e-brake cables.
Today I installed new PP502 nozzles. OEM nozzles had 331,250 on them. Huge difference.
Over the weekend was full TB change and a Colt stg3 cam, and new e-brake cables.
Today I installed new PP502 nozzles. OEM nozzles had 331,250 on them. Huge difference.
Unless the side you replaced was in an accident and banged up it is a really really good idea to replace ball joints and tie rods in pairs.
When I did ball joints they came with to nuts. One was a nylon lock nut and the other was an oem style nut with a large flange and no nylon. The no nylon nut was the one to use.
Sootman
Veteran Member
Put on a new set of Nokian eNTYRE 2.0 for the summer. It'll be interesting to see how they ride, handle and wear. All wheel drive mean 5000 mile rotations.
SCM.com
Veteran Member
Finally installed my Ion-Yellow bulbs for the 9006 HB4 fog lights. Bring on the crappy weather!
-M.
-M.
dremd
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Location
- South Louisiana
- TDI
- 06 sprinter. 03 jetta wagon premium with 6 speed ALH swap, 14 JSW
Loaded Malone stage 4 tune and installed 3Bar MAP sensor.
Wow, this is every bit as big of a change as going from stock to PP520 nozzles. My car is now comfortably faster than the 1.8 T form. Passing power is probably the best I have ever experianced in a 4 cylinder, 0-60 distance (not time though)is shorter than my BPU Supra, and drive ability/ power delivery is better than the 2014 CR.
I'm very impressed.
Wow, this is every bit as big of a change as going from stock to PP520 nozzles. My car is now comfortably faster than the 1.8 T form. Passing power is probably the best I have ever experianced in a 4 cylinder, 0-60 distance (not time though)is shorter than my BPU Supra, and drive ability/ power delivery is better than the 2014 CR.
I'm very impressed.
SCM.com
Veteran Member
Not dissing Malone tunes at all,
I would have kept the BPU Supra!!
Jus' me 2 cents....
-M.
dremd
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Location
- South Louisiana
- TDI
- 06 sprinter. 03 jetta wagon premium with 6 speed ALH swap, 14 JSW
I've still have a supra, it needs to be re-asymbled. For whatever reason I've got no interest, but I don't want to sell it.
TDIFan1989
Veteran Member
LED Upgrade for Passenger Area
I decided to upgrade my passenger area lighting with some Philips LED bulbs
Previous filament bulb install had this appearance
A simple tug and lift seems to allow these units to slip out of their holster in the frame. Make sure the paneling on the back of the unit is snug or you will have to readjust the metal piece inside.
There is a wire going into the toggle with a one way connector that will need to be disconnected. Simply pinch the tabs and pull it out. As you can see, the housing has become loose there and you should squeeze it back into place.
This is how the bulb should be installed. Due to this being an LED bulb, you need to turn the bulb to the proper position for maximum light output.
A grainy after photo reveals the results of my hard work. As you can see, it is quite a bit brighter back in the passenger section now.
I decided to upgrade my passenger area lighting with some Philips LED bulbs
Previous filament bulb install had this appearance
A simple tug and lift seems to allow these units to slip out of their holster in the frame. Make sure the paneling on the back of the unit is snug or you will have to readjust the metal piece inside.
There is a wire going into the toggle with a one way connector that will need to be disconnected. Simply pinch the tabs and pull it out. As you can see, the housing has become loose there and you should squeeze it back into place.
This is how the bulb should be installed. Due to this being an LED bulb, you need to turn the bulb to the proper position for maximum light output.
A grainy after photo reveals the results of my hard work. As you can see, it is quite a bit brighter back in the passenger section now.