What bloody oil can I use? Please just tell me!

[Cailean]

I promise I've searched & read & searched & read the FAQ & searched again, and am more confused than ever.

So, just tell me, straight up. Can I use the oil I'm using or not? If not, what can I use? (btw, you can spare me the VW elitist 'only the best will do' rhetoric)

Here's what I just put in my 97 Jetta TDI the other day...
Castrol GTX Diesel SAE 15w40

It says API Service CH-I, which according to the TDIFAQ, is fine. My engine cover clearly says VW 505, though, which is not included in the list of manufacturer specs on the bottle.

So, does my engine blow up if I don't change the oil tomorrow?

 

[dieseldorf]

you haven't done adquate reading. You need to get a synthetic diesel rated oil for your car. .. preferably a 5W40.

 

[TurboBenz]

I use Castrol Syntec 5W40 (you can get it from Canadian Tire)

Just use any 5w40 Diesel Rated Synthetic oil.

Your engine is fine for now, just change the oil earlier and use a synthetic next time (and go the full Oil Change Interval).

 

[weedeater]

PetroCanada Duron.

 

[TornadoRed]

PetroCanada Duron.

I've read excellent reviews of the PC Duron 5w40. And apparently it's a fairly economical choice for our Canadian friends.

All TDI engines should use synthetic oil. Not conventional, not synthetic blends.

 

[TDIfor]

Cailean;

I share your pain... Ive plunged into the whole oil issue with some enthusiasm and come back with more questions than answers...

.. aside from being thankful I have a nice, simple, low-tech VE TDI.

PDs are striking me (based on NO firsthand knowledge, experience or technical understanding) as just too high-strung and finicky.

Next, VW will be requiring certifed air to keep the warranty in effect.

(which.. may not be a bad idea.. Im sorry now I mentioned it....)

Don

 

[OkiTdi]

Use the specified oil!

Do yourself a favor and use a VW certified and specified oil. I've worked for 30 years in R&D for a major oil company, and believe me, all oils are not created equal. A good oil for Vehicle A may be a terrible oil for Vehicle B. A certified oil has passed a large number of tests, and the producer has probably spent over $100K just to get the tests run--not to mention the cost in developing the oil. Volkswagen specifies the oil because it will save them money in warranty repairs. It'll save you money, and headaches as well.

OkiTDI

 

[wny_pat]

Next, VW will be requiring certifed air to keep the warranty in effect.

(which.. may not be a bad idea.. Im sorry now I mentioned it....)

Don

And now some "newbie" is going to be posting about this "certified air" thing, wondering if the air where they live is okay for their new VW TDI, or if it will void their warranty!

 

[Frank M]

. Volkswagen specifies the oil because it will save them money in warranty repairs. It'll save you money, and headaches as well.
OkiTDI

I have read on this forum that VW does not care how long your engine lasts. Just so long that it passes to the end of warranty..

 

[tditom]

...So, just tell me, straight up. Can I use the oil I'm using or not? If not, what can I use? ...

You can get away with using any oil listed in your owner's manual. Does it list 15W40 as an acceptable viscosity?

The VW505.00 label on your engine cover is there because that was the existing standard that VW built the injection pump tdi engine to work with.

Your engine will not blow up (tomorrow, anyways )

 

[GoFaster]

I promise I've searched & read & searched & read the FAQ & searched again, and am more confused than ever.

So, just tell me, straight up. Can I use the oil I'm using or not? If not, what can I use? (btw, you can spare me the VW elitist 'only the best will do' rhetoric)

Here's what I just put in my 97 Jetta TDI the other day...
Castrol GTX Diesel SAE 15w40

It says API Service CH-I, which according to the TDIFAQ, is fine. My engine cover clearly says VW 505, though, which is not included in the list of manufacturer specs on the bottle.

So, does my engine blow up if I don't change the oil tomorrow?

READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL.

There is a chart in there indicating what viscosities are suitable for whatever current climate conditions are.

15w40 is okay for a more limited temperature range. If you want one single oil that can be used regardless of temperature range, you need 5w40 (and, in practice, 0w40 is also OK although not listed in the manual - most 0w40 oils have come on the marketplace since the time your vehicle was built).

The other problem with the oil you have now is that it is not synthetic. This is not something that's in the owner's manual, it's a TSB (technical service bulletin) issued by VW at a later date.

NOW, to answer your question in very simple terms.

I see that you live in Ontario. Go to your friendly local Canadian Tire store. Find Shell Rotella Synthetic 0w40 (or maybe 5w40). That oil is suitable for your non-PD engine.

PetroCanada "OilChangers" locations can get PetroCanada Duron Synthetic 5w40. It's less expensive than Rotella Synthetic, but it may be a special-order item.

 

[tverhoeven]

I see this oil issue is a sensitive topic for sure.

I can tell you that I purchase Duron 5W40 and it is wonderful. I pay 23 CDN for a 4L bottle. When I would bring it to the stealership they would tell me that I did not require synth due to the age of my car and number of KM, 300000.

I mentioned that to my personal TDI saviour, YOu know who you are HERM, and he about reached thru the phone and strangled me. "5W40 Synthetic is all that poor car needs...NOTHING ELSE!" Words to live by. Since I started using it, my baby runs quieter and smoother.

I searched high and low for PETROCAN Duron 5W40 and finally found it about 2 blocks from my house. SAve yourself some time and just call PetroCAn. They will tell you where you can get the stuff in your area. if you can't find it, message me and I will ship some to you.

 

[MrErlo]

since the oil is actually responsible for protecting the most important, and expensive, parts of your car buy the best stuff you can get your hands on. i'm putting Elf 506.01 into my car this weekend even though it's a 2002 NON-PD Jetta. it will give the highest level of protection, might help increase MPG and at $80/10,000miles is well worth it. you could put in something cheap, but $60/yr savings... is it really worth it knowing your putting in an inferior product?

 

[Frank M]

505.00 is inferior for a pre-PD engine

since the oil is actually responsible for protecting the most important, and expensive, parts of your car buy the best stuff you can get your hands on. i'm putting Elf 506.01 into my car this weekend even though it's a 2002 NON-PD Jetta. it will give the highest level of protection, might help increase MPG and at $80/10,000miles is well worth it. you could put in something cheap, but $60/yr savings... is it really worth it knowing your putting in an inferior product?

505.00 is inferior for a pre-PD engine
Where can I read that information

 

[MrErlo]

you're right, i dont mean to say 505.00 is unacceptable. but there is no doubt that 506.01 is better, and provides MPG benefits as well. honestly, i have been recommended to put in 505.00, but i feel that since oil is so critical i might as well go with the best of what's around.

 

[Matt-98AHU]

My '98 ran with 15w40 Delvac 1300 Super for years under my dad's ownership (and the first oil change under my ownership). 226,000 miles on it and it still runs fine. I don't use that oil anymore, though. And I will say that the 15w40 is terrible for winter cold starts. The oil light would blink for seconds before turning off, whereas with a good 5w40 synthetic, it's off almost instantly. 15w40 is way way too thick for winter cold starts. But it won't immediately kill the engine... prime example being my '98.

 

[dieseldorf]

Matt98, do you have any idea why a synthetic oil has been recommended by the engine mfr, anecdotal evidence aside?

 

[Matt-98AHU]

Matt98, do you have any idea why a synthetic oil has been recommended by the engine mfr, anecdotal evidence aside?

Aside from far superior protection, extended drain intervals, less friction and the like... no, I suppose I don't know the real specifics. I just know that I need to put in the correct oil that conforms to VW 505.00 standard (that's what my AHU requires) or else damage may (and likely will) occur.

Feel free to enlighten me with any specifics. Always willing to learn from those more experienced and knowledgeable than myself.

I've seen the threads pertaining to PD engines where 505.01 standard oil was not used and the cam lobes wore off... definitely strong evidence to stick to what the mfr. requires/recommends.

 

[TornadoRed]

I can tell you that I purchase Duron 5W40 and it is wonderful. I pay 23 CDN for a 4L bottle.... I searched high and low for PETROCAN Duron 5W40 and finally found it about 2 blocks from my house. SAve yourself some time and just call PetroCAn. They will tell you where you can get the stuff in your area.

If PetroCanada ever decides to sell Duron 5w40 in the United States, they will take a big share of the market away from Shell Rotella T 5w40. It sure seems to be pretty good stuff, and not very expensive.

 

[Cailean]

Thanks!

READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL.

I would if I could, but alas, the glovebox was bare when I purchased the car.

Thanks, most of you, for giving me straight answers. Much appreciated. My next change will be with 5w40 synth, the Duron if I can find it.

Now if I could just figure out where to get the VW-certified air, guess I'll just call the local dealership and ask them...

 

[tverhoeven]

Cailean; if you can't find the stuff in your area give me a shout and I will see if Waddick Fuels here will ship some up to you.

 

[dieseldorf]

Aside from far superior protection, extended drain intervals, less friction and the like... no, I suppose I don't know the real specifics. I just know that I need to put in the correct oil that conforms to VW 505.00 standard (that's what my AHU requires) or else damage may (and likely will) occur.

Feel free to enlighten me with any specifics. Always willing to learn from those more experienced and knowledgeable than myself.

The most important issue is oxidation and how cleanly a product burns off when exposed to the intense heat of diesel combustion at the uppermost piston ring. This is the most significant concern. Synthetic oils, whether Group III or Group IV/V blends, offer superior resistance to oxidation compared to mineral-based oils, and when they do oxidize (burn), they do so very cleanly and leave little or no residue.

When you have severe fouling of the ring land area, the ring loses its ability to float or move and it all goes downhill from there. Compression is lost, oil consumption can go thru the roof, power is lost, fuel consumption goes up, etc. It's not an enviable position to be in.

The top piston ring has been moved further up (better emissions control) in the newer cars making this issue more critical and the potential for stuck rings that much more of a liability. Selection of a high quality lubricant, meeting approriate specs, will help keep these issues at bay. The engine mfr has set a quality standard to help protect you against such issues.

 

[tditom]

Well put, dd. Also note that synthetic can withstand higher temperatures and this is a very important factor in protecting the turbo.

 

[eli]

rtfm. love tfm. live tfm.

 

[MrErlo]

guess I'll just call the local dealership and ask them...

don't forget to have them fill you up on turn signal fluid

 

[dieseldorf]

Thanks, most of you, for giving me straight answers. Much appreciated. My next change will be with 5w40 synth, the Duron if I can find it.

'Tis a fine decision on your part and a fine lube! Ask somebody local to YOU where to buy it

Enjoy the ride.

 

[weedeater]

don't forget to have them fill you up on turn signal fluid

Just be aware that the part numbers are different between the left and right side fluids. Be sure you get the correct item. Costs the same, but you have to be careful.

 

[Matt-98AHU]

The most important issue is oxidation and how cleanly a product burns off when exposed to the intense heat of diesel combustion at the uppermost piston ring. This is the most significant concern. Synthetic oils, whether Group III or Group IV/V blends, offer superior resistance to oxidation compared to mineral-based oils, and when they do oxidize (burn), they do so very cleanly and leave little or no residue.

When you have severe fouling of the ring land area, the ring loses its ability to float or move and it all goes downhill from there. Compression is lost, oil consumption can go thru the roof, power is lost, fuel consumption goes up, etc. It's not an enviable position to be in.

The top piston ring has been moved further up (better emissions control) in the newer cars making this issue more critical and the potential for stuck rings that much more of a liability. Selection of a high quality lubricant, meeting approriate specs, will help keep these issues at bay. The engine mfr has set a quality standard to help protect you against such issues.

Good to know! My fuel economy isn't what it should be, but then again I don't typically drive with fuel economy in mind Some day I should do a compression test on it and see what I come up with. Oil consumption isn't bad. It leaks oil from the pan gasket, which I will be fixing soon enough (my next oil change). What the car leaves on the ground looks a lot worse than it actually is. I don't have to add oil for at least 2000 miles. And even then we're talking maybe half a quart.

I once frequented the Bobistheoilguy forums (that's where I ended up changing the kind of oil I use in the car...) and have been wanting to try AutoRX. One of the claims is to free up piston rings, restore seals and also improve compression. VERY good at removing sludge. When I asked about switching from the 15w40 Delvac to M1 T&SUV 5w40 syn. most told me to do an AutoRX treatment first and then use the M1 5w40. I simply switched oils and never got around to ordering AutoRX.

When I got the car, the performance certainly didn't seem as it should. But after running for a year and a half on the full synthetic 5w40 as well as switching to B20 for fuel, I have noticed some increase in power in the upper rev ranges (above 3000 RPM). Hopefully if there was an issue with the piston rings, it's slowly being restored. Your comments about the piston rings has me once again thinking about doing an AutoRX treatment.

 

[burpod]

cailean, if you just changed your oil the other day and have been a member since last year, why did you ask this question *just* after putting in the wrong oil? why not a week before your anticipated oil change? ugh another stupid oil thread that pollutes the forums... and yet again causes more confusion, for the most part. i started out my VW experience with a PD engine in dec 2004 (first diesel car i've owned), and it didn't take very long to figure out what kinda of super special oil i needed. with an older VE engine, your task should be even simpler.

 

[dieseldorf]

Your comments about the piston rings has me once again thinking about doing an AutoRX treatment.

AutoRX most certainly could be a solution, Matt. Running a very strong detergent oil can give good results, over time, too !

Good luck.