What am i getting myself into.

[Howard2005]

How do you guys feel about oil filters? Is there a big benefit in using a premium filter vs a standard one.
I usually opt up just to be safe but today Autozone only had the $5 STP. Walmart has a Kand N for around $7 and $14.
Im doing 10k OCI on my 2014 CPO.

 

[hskrdu]

I use only OEM brands sold by vendors that support TDIClub. There was a thread years ago comparing an OEM filter (can't remember which filter) to a "premium" filter, and the German filter had far more filtering material.

 

[Mongler98]

It dropped. If "brand new high-viscosity oil" was supposed to be the baseline standard for operating the car, the OCI would have been 1000mi instead of 7500.

Well. I've driven a lot and logged every mile. I never had that issue and I have an excell sheet that covers oil changes and service against milage. Just looked. Km not saying your wrong but there is something not right with what your dealing with.

 

[90_zeros]

How do you guys feel about oil filters? Is there a big benefit in using a premium filter vs a standard one.
I usually opt up just to be safe but today Autozone only had the $5 STP. Walmart has a Kand N for around $7 and $14.
Im doing 10k OCI on my 2014 CPO.

I have used AutoZone filters in a pinch, but when you see the VW and "OE replacement" filters side by side, there is no comparison. I have a Mann filter in currently because I was in a rush

 

[MukGyver]

I have used AutoZone filters in a pinch, but when you see the VW and "OE replacement" filters side by side, there is no comparison. I have a Mann filter in currently because I was in a rush

I believe Mann it's a German OE replacement. I can't see much of any difference. What is the side by side "no comparison" features of the VW filter?

 

[CleverUserName]

The “best” VW filters are the Bosch premium line as the have the highest efficiency of any cellulose filter available, however they are made in China which may trigger some VW enthusiasts. I prefer Bosch premium or Mahle for all my filters.

In my experience, some VW 507 oils are not suitable for 10k miles, namely Liqui Moly TT 4200. Mobil 1 ESP 5w30 has always been a solid performer and does hold up for 10k or 1 year.

Dont listen to anybody telling you to exceed 10k miles or anything ridiculous like 30k miles based on dubious comments from blackstone labs. It is likely they don’t fully understand the methodology or philosophy of extended oil change intervals. There are a number of constituents that should be monitored as you exceed 15k miles, generally it becomes more cost effective to just change the oil on a small sump like a TDI than to pay for additional testing on used oil samples.

No oil additives. ULSD fuel can benefit from additives by increasing combustion efficiency and reducing soot generation. Redline diesel fuel catalyst and amalgamated TDR/WDA work the best in my expierence.

 

[90_zeros]

I believe Mann it's a German OE replacement. I can't see much of any difference. What is the side by side "no comparison" features of the VW filter?

The VW filter has a zigzag pattern to the media, whereas the OE replacements are typically straight lines, or creases, in the media. I'm not sure that there is a functional difference at 10k intervals or anything like that, just that the VW branded part is heavy and has the zigzag pattern which allows more surface area of filter within the same physical dimensions. I'm not saying it's a better filter, just that there is definitely MORE filter.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

No oil additives. ULSD fuel can benefit from additives by increasing combustion efficiency and reducing soot generation.

Interesting. Maybe the oil is getting saturated with soot, and has no more capacity to store Fe particles.

 

[CleverUserName]

Interesting. Maybe the oil is getting saturated with soot, and has no more capacity to store Fe particles.

Not in my experience. Soot generally decreases in an oil sample as combustion efficiency increases. Soot generally makes it into the oil by the effect of blow-by and EGR.

Using a fuel additive with combustion catalysts and high quality diesel #2 oil soot % is essentially nonexistent at normal oil change interval for a stock or lightly tuned engine. Nonexistent is anywhere from < 0.1% to 0.2% in my testing. Iron or the oils ability to keep iron in suspension isn’t effected by low levels of soot and generally larger iron particles would be captured in the filter, magnetic drain plug (if equipped) or just sink to the bottom anyway.

 

[turbobrick240]

How do you guys feel about oil filters? Is there a big benefit in using a premium filter vs a standard one.
I usually opt up just to be safe but today Autozone only had the $5 STP. Walmart has a Kand N for around $7 and $14.
Im doing 10k OCI on my 2014 CPO.

I always use them. Sure, you can save a few bucks by stuffing the canister with old rags, but it's a false economy. Seriously though, some people worry WAY too much about oil brands, filter brands, additive brands etc. Just do the prescribed oil and filter changes and leave the minutiae to the worrywarts.

 

[oilhammer]

It is funny how the people who didn't know any better, or the quickie lube industry that seemed to come on strong back in the '80s, seems to have made myth into legend. If anyone bothered to read the owner's manuals, on any car made in the last 50 years, they'd find this "3k mile oil change interval" simply didn't exist, or not in the way we have been led to think.

I am one of those nerds that reads owner's manuals, in all kinds of cars... used cars that I bought for resale, new cars that I bought, etc. In addition to a myriad of VAG products I have owned over the years, covering pretty much everything you can think of from air cooled boxers on up, I have also owned many other cars. I also have worked on many other cars. And I've read a LOT of manuals, in particular the PM sections.

I'd really like to know where the 3k nonsense originated.

In 1984, when things were good in this country once again after the awful '70s, and Reaganomics was kicking in strong, a bunch of my extended family bought new cars. My dad bought a Ford Ranger, my grandfather bought a Dodge Omni, and aunts/uncles bought a Pontiac Sunbird, Chevrolet Chevette, Jeep Cherokee, Nissan Stanza, and a Subaru GL wagon (which started rusting away later that month). I probably read ALL of those cars' manuals at some point and time (I said I was...am? ... a car nerd). None of those cars I can recall having a service interval that short. They were mostly 5k or 7500 miles. My '89 Toyota pickup even had 10k miles "under normal conditions" and 7500 "under extreme conditions" on a sticker on the airbox of its 22RE engine. My '87 Mazda B2000 was 7500 miles "or 7.5 months, whichever came first". The 1966 Ford Mustang I had for a short time had 6000 miles printed on its oil cap.

The most common interval now is 10k miles (Toyota, most Hondas, most Fords) but a few may still have 7500. Some are technically flexible (GM) and can go as high as 20k miles. Most BMW/Mini is 15k. Most MB stuff if fixed is 20k, or flexible (which can go as high as 25k). We have many fleet Fords we service here (F150s, Focuses, Transits, Transit Connects) that are going strong at 300k+ miles with 10k service intervals, and these vehicles are just getting the cheap bulk no-name 5w20 motor oil, and they NEVER get their oil checked by the operators unless a warning light comes on... and even then, they are more likely to keep driving them until they bring it in here, LOL.

The only cars that really suffer motor oil related problems are ones that consume oil AND get run a long(ish) time AND never get topped up. The bad oil burners are well known, there are really no surprises. Many Toyotas, some older Hondas, ANYTHING Subaru, and a few select GM and ChryCo products. BMWs have a hard time just keeping the oil in the engine due to leaks.

But seriously, if you just don't run the darn thing out of oil, it isn't going to suffer and going the full manufacturer specified interval is always going to be the least costly and makes the most sense. And if you DO have an oil burner, you most certainly would want to go as long as possible, wouldn't you? I live in a universe where it is FAR easier and cheaper to open the hood and top off the oil periodically than it is to DRAIN it all out repeatedly.

 

[turbobrick240]

7.5 months is an odd interval for sure. I wonder how many calendars got marked for that, lol. One of my good buddies had a mid 80's B2000 in high school. He abused the heck out of that truck and it just kept going. I remember when he traded it for a 2.9l V6 Ranger- he was convinced that Ranger was an absolute powerhouse.

 

[90_zeros]

It is funny how the people who didn't know any better, or the quickie lube industry that seemed to come on strong back in the '80s, seems to have made myth into legend. If anyone bothered to read the owner's manuals, on any car made in the last 50 years, they'd find this "3k mile oil change interval" simply didn't exist, or not in the way we have been led to think.

I am one of those nerds that reads owner's manuals, in all kinds of cars... used cars that I bought for resale, new cars that I bought, etc. In addition to a myriad of VAG products I have owned over the years, covering pretty much everything you can think of from air cooled boxers on up, I have also owned many other cars. I also have worked on many other cars. And I've read a LOT of manuals, in particular the PM sections.

I'd really like to know where the 3k nonsense originated.

In 1984, when things were good in this country once again after the awful '70s, and Reaganomics was kicking in strong, a bunch of my extended family bought new cars. My dad bought a Ford Ranger, my grandfather bought a Dodge Omni, and aunts/uncles bought a Pontiac Sunbird, Chevrolet Chevette, Jeep Cherokee, Nissan Stanza, and a Subaru GL wagon (which started rusting away later that month). I probably read ALL of those cars' manuals at some point and time (I said I was...am? ... a car nerd). None of those cars I can recall having a service interval that short. They were mostly 5k or 7500 miles. My '89 Toyota pickup even had 10k miles "under normal conditions" and 7500 "under extreme conditions" on a sticker on the airbox of its 22RE engine. My '87 Mazda B2000 was 7500 miles "or 7.5 months, whichever came first". The 1966 Ford Mustang I had for a short time had 6000 miles printed on its oil cap.

The most common interval now is 10k miles (Toyota, most Hondas, most Fords) but a few may still have 7500. Some are technically flexible (GM) and can go as high as 20k miles. Most BMW/Mini is 15k. Most MB stuff if fixed is 20k, or flexible (which can go as high as 25k). We have many fleet Fords we service here (F150s, Focuses, Transits, Transit Connects) that are going strong at 300k+ miles with 10k service intervals, and these vehicles are just getting the cheap bulk no-name 5w20 motor oil, and they NEVER get their oil checked by the operators unless a warning light comes on... and even then, they are more likely to keep driving them until they bring it in here, LOL.

The only cars that really suffer motor oil related problems are ones that consume oil AND get run a long(ish) time AND never get topped up. The bad oil burners are well known, there are really no surprises. Many Toyotas, some older Hondas, ANYTHING Subaru, and a few select GM and ChryCo products. BMWs have a hard time just keeping the oil in the engine due to leaks.

But seriously, if you just don't run the darn thing out of oil, it isn't going to suffer and going the full manufacturer specified interval is always going to be the least costly and makes the most sense. And if you DO have an oil burner, you most certainly would want to go as long as possible, wouldn't you? I live in a universe where it is FAR easier and cheaper to open the hood and top off the oil periodically than it is to DRAIN it all out repeatedly.

My '98 Civic, '92 240sx, 2016 STI, and '99 TA all had 3k OCI for in-town driving.

 

[nicklockard]

My $0.02 on oil and engine longevity: if it really concerns you, I'd recommend just getting a bypass oil filter setup. This has the benefit of increasing oil capacity and cooling too, in addition to the obvious improvement in oil filtration. That's what I did on my 99.5 Jetta Tdi, and I'm sticking to my theory because it makes me feel good

On the Touareg Tdi I currently run, other than periodically topping off, I just ignore the crap out of the oil until the dash light bugs me to change it, which happens every 52 towing weekends or 17,000 miles, whichever comes first. I don't know. I don't care. I just drive it. It's a stupid SUV and I just expect the damn thing to go.

 

[oilhammer]

1998 Civic, normal service, 7500 miles

1992 240SX, normal service, 7500 miles (the old KA truck engine is pretty tough... you could probably double that and it would still outlive the chintzy Nissan body anywhere that rain or snow happens)

2016 WRX STI, normal service, 6000 miles

1999* "TA" (I am pulling my inner hoosier to assume you mean Pontiac Trans Am), normal service, 10k miles, although most end up camped out in a trailer park somewhere anyway...

Looked this all up right in front of me on Alldata. No idea what "in town" driving specifically defines as, but I very much doubt any of these cars are or were used as a taxi cab or similar, but oddly enough even if they were general cab use actually has LONGER intervals (because they don't go through heat cycles) not shorter. I maintain the areas only TDI cab, it is doing just fine on 10k mile intervals and is currently at about 470k miles and ten years old.

I stand by my previous statement: many people have been brainwashed into changing oil FAR too often than necessary.

*GM started a "smart" interval around that time and the F body if I recall was included in that. There was actually a magazine article that used the port injected 5.7L engine F-body as its test subject, and they found out the GM system was actually very good at dictating oil quality, and their test car was able to go as long as 22k miles on its oil until it said to change it, and the UOA confirmed it was about time. This car was driven a variety of ways, but never on a race track or anything extreme like that. And of course the big lump was pretty unstressed loafing along moving the car around. I think that system worked well at the time on some of those cars/engines. It isn't so great now. Not because the system can't, it is because the engines can't. The 0w20 oil and the variable lifter nonsense the new V6/V8s use (I am primarily talking about the trucks) really trashes the engines in short order. Although I feel much of it is due to chronic running low on oil, despite the 8qt (V8) capacity.

 

[90_zeros]

1998 Civic, normal service, 7500 miles

1992 240SX, normal service, 7500 miles (the old KA truck engine is pretty tough... you could probably double that and it would still outlive the chintzy Nissan body anywhere that rain or snow happens)

2016 WRX STI, normal service, 6000 miles

1999* "TA" (I am pulling my inner hoosier to assume you mean Pontiac Trans Am), normal service, 10k miles, although most end up camped out in a trailer park somewhere anyway...

Looked this all up right in front of me on Alldata. No idea what "in town" driving specifically defines as, but I very much doubt any of these cars are or were used as a taxi cab or similar, but oddly enough even if they were general cab use actually has LONGER intervals (because they don't go through heat cycles) not shorter. I maintain the areas only TDI cab, it is doing just fine on 10k mile intervals and is currently at about 470k miles and ten years old.

I stand by my previous statement: many people have been brainwashed into changing oil FAR too often than necessary.

*GM started a "smart" interval around that time and the F body if I recall was included in that. There was actually a magazine article that used the port injected 5.7L engine F-body as its test subject, and they found out the GM system was actually very good at dictating oil quality, and their test car was able to go as long as 22k miles on its oil until it said to change it, and the UOA confirmed it was about time. This car was driven a variety of ways, but never on a race track or anything extreme like that. And of course the big lump was pretty unstressed loafing along moving the car around. I think that system worked well at the time on some of those cars/engines. It isn't so great now. Not because the system can't, it is because the engines can't. The 0w20 oil and the variable lifter nonsense the new V6/V8s use (I am primarily talking about the trucks) really trashes the engines in short order. Although I feel much of it is due to chronic running low on oil, despite the 8qt (V8) capacity.

That's just simply not the case, friend. These cars came with manuals specifying dino oil with the exception of the STI, and they define "harsh conditions" as the majority of your driving being in the city and not on highways. I know you have your biases being a mechanic, but I too was a mechanic for 5 years, and am an Engineer now. Not everyone you're talking to is "brainwashed"

Edit: btw, "the old KA truck engine" is not the same engine in the 240sx...

 

[oilhammer]

I guess all the info I have on hand is in error then. 5 years? That's cute.

The 240SX in 1992 uses the Nissan KA24DE. A 2002 Frontier uses... a KA24DE. I've worked on a million of 'em. For FAR longer than five years.

But hey, I guess that is wrong info, too. Nissan put the wrong engines in their vehicles I suppose. The stickers under the hood are wrong too! Maybe I mistakenly thought a sport coupe and a pickup truck were the same thing? All the KA24DEs I've worked on in Altimas... were those something else, too?

I've probably wiped more Nissan engine information off my ass this morning than most people would ever care to know.

EVERYONE will occasionally drive in something falling under "harsh conditions". But science will prove the actuality of it is not at all what they think. UOA don't lie.

BTW, I worked at a Nissan dealer. Back when they were doing the Hitachi fuel injector recalls and the whole shop perpetually smelled like gasoline. Back when the cabover vans spontaneously caught fire so they were all bought back and crushed unless someone HAD to keep it, then there was a 30+hour recall to "fix" them. Back when the D21s were everywhere. Back when there were still Sentras running around with this silly driveability problem laded device called a "carburetor" under the hood.... and a [very] few surviving Sentra (and Maxima!) diesels still pudging around. Oh, and that '92 240SX was brand spanking new.

Nissans were great cars back then. Equal to Toyota I'd say. Now they are all just ugly French-contrived styling and one dead CVT after another.

 

[MukGyver]

There could be a storm going on in any engine with parts even while been driven on straight, flat, deserted highways in 65 degree temps their entire life, or the opposite can be true. All the engine knows is damn "conditions" suck in here. Engines die more from actions or inactions of humans - whether that be engineers, mechanics or owners - than they do from other causes...my 2cents on harsh conditions.

 

[MukGyver]

Petfect example, engine designed with cam wear tendency requires specific oil bandaid to compensate, while half of owners lucky to ever pull a dipstick.

 

[oilhammer]

The old domestic (and German) flat tappet engines have been suffering similar issues with many modern oils... and it seems the same PD friendly stuff helps those, too! I suspect a lot of the new GM pushrod V6 and V8 camshaft issues could be at least partially lessened with a good 5w40 oil instead of 0w20. Fiat figured this out (on an engine that wasn't even theirs to begin with, no less) with the Hemi V8. Except the CAFE regs are so tight they cannot specify it for trucks and cars under 8500 GVWR. But all the HD Rams with the 5.7L or 6.4L spec a 40. The 1500 Rams just get trashed camshafts, LOL.

 

[nicklockard]

Funny you say that about good 5W-40 oils, Brian. I know I'll get excorciated for this, but I just generally put Shell Rotella T6 in my motorcycles and gasser cars.

 

[MukGyver]

The problem with going thicker viscosity on a engine that calls for 20w I believe is engine wear. I found that out the hard way on my 2000 Mits Eclipse which called for 20w. When the miles got higher I thought it might be good to go thicker and stay thicker. Within a year or so I started burning through oil at a rate of about 1qt every couple tankfills. I'm not sure but I'm assuming the thinner oils are dictated by tighter clearances. So if the thick stuff takes longer to get in there on starts to create the protection I'm assuming wear is the result. Now I always stay with whatever is recommended.

 

[oilhammer]

We use that in all our equipment on the farm now, save for my Honda Recon, due to it having a wet clutch.

All of the John Deere stuff (JD turbodiesel I4, Yanmar diesel I3, three Kawasaki V-twins, one air, two water cooled).

All the Kubota stuff (Kub diesel I4, Kub diesel I3)

Plus several air cooled Honda, B&S, and Tecumseh singles running various pieces of equipment (tiller, log splitter, etc.).

 

[90_zeros]

The 240SX in 1992 uses the Nissan KA24DE. A 2002 Frontier uses... a KA24DE. I've worked on a million of 'em. For FAR longer than five years.

Cool, I like the part where you compare year models 10 years apart. You're making a fool of yourself to anyone who knows anything about Nissans, just sayin...

Not gonna derail this thread any further, my apologies to OP. Oilhammer, you and I will never agree on anything, I think. That's ok with me

 

[CleverUserName]

Cool, I like the part where you compare year models 10 years apart. You're making a fool of yourself to anyone who knows anything about Nissans, just sayin...

Not gonna derail this thread any further, my apologies to OP. Oilhammer, you and I will never agree on anything, I think. That's ok with me

He compared two different Nissan models which share the same engine code.

This is coming from the “expert” who adamantly insists that an SMF can be safely installed on a CR 2.0 TDI equipped with an 02Q w/steel synchros and ignores the dozens of members’ anecdotes of damaged transmissions. You have no credibility.

 

[90_zeros]

He compared two different Nissan models which share the same engine code.

This is coming from the “expert” who adamantly insists that an SMF can be safely installed on a CR 2.0 TDI equipped with an 02Q w/steel synchros and ignores the dozens of members’ anecdotes of damaged transmissions. You have no credibility.

Wow. You're still butthurt about that? Why didn't you prove me wrong in the other thread instead of derailing this one? You two are always there to be the "ACTUALLLYYYY" guys but your "facts" are based on Haynes manuals and not experience. He was clearly not arguing from a genuine place. Suddenly that "old KA truck engine" came from a car 10 years it's senior? lol. GTFO here

 

[CleverUserName]

Wow. You're still butthurt about that? Why didn't you prove me wrong in the other thread instead of derailing this one? You two are always there to be the "ACTUALLLYYYY" guys but your "facts" are based on Haynes manuals and not experience. He was clearly not arguing from a genuine place. Suddenly that "old KA truck engine" came from a car 10 years it's senior? lol. GTFO here

No I don’t get butthurt from clowns who post nonsense on Internet forums. I do feel bad however when people do searches and find information that’s inaccurate.

I do know manufactures use the same engine for multiple platforms with minor revisions. The GM 5.0, 5.7 or Toyota 2.7 and 4.0 come to mind, both in service for 10 years or more. I’m not an expert on Nissan powertrains, never owned a Datsun or Nissan.

I proved you wrong multiple times. You’re just too arrogant and dense to admit it and keep grasping at straws. Trying to find a shred of something in a lame attempt to discredit multiple members posts on here which prove your assumptions are not based on any facts.

 

[90_zeros]

No I don’t get butthurt from clowns who post nonsense on Internet forums. I do feel bad however when people do searches and find information that’s inaccurate.

I do know manufactures use the same engine for multiple platforms with minor revisions. The GM 5.0, 5.7 or Toyota 2.7 and 4.0 come to mind, both in service for 10 years or more. I’m not an expert on Nissan powertrains, never owned a Datsun or Nissan.

I proved you wrong multiple times. You’re just too arrogant and dense to admit it and keep grasping at straws. Trying to find a shred of something in a lame attempt to discredit multiple members posts on here which prove your assumptions are not based on any facts.

This is peak intelligence, right here.

If you "proved me wrong", then you should ask why TDIclub is supporting vendors that are knowingly damaging their cars...
PROTIP: they aren't.

I'm going to need a minute to break down the massive wall of bs you just spewed all over my screen. Mr. Expert
Edit:
1. You're following me around spewing ad homs based on your feelings that this is a comfy infallable place.

2. "I do know manufactures use the same engine for multiple platforms with minor revisions. The GM 5.0, 5.7 or Toyota 2.7 and 4.0 come to mind, both in service for 10 years or more. I’m not an expert on Nissan powertrains, never owned a Datsun or Nissan."
You not being an expert on Nissan was evident the moment you defended his ridiculous comparison. The KA24DE, for you noobs, is a 240sx powerplant. It's not "a truck motor". The KA24e truck motor, which oilhammer was obviously alluding to, is an entirely different engine, unless you count completely different blocks, heads, compression ratios, and an extra camshaft as a "minor revision".

Here's another lesson for you, all of those 5.0s, 5.7s, 2.7s, and 4.0s had NAMES you biggot, or do they all look the same to you?...

3."I proved you wrong multiple times."
You posted 1 outdated thread, as I said you would. 5+ years old. Pre buyback. I told you new advancements had been made, and gave you a link, but you can't accept that so you bailed on that thread... which brings me back to

4."I do feel bad however when people do searches and find information that’s inaccurate."
So why did you leave my "inaccurate info" from a forum vendor up for all the world to see in the other thread?

This brings us to your final lesson for the day

5. PROJECTION
"You’re just too arrogant and dense to admit it and keep grasping at straws. Trying to find a shred of something in a lame attempt to discredit multiple members posts on here which prove your assumptions are not based on any facts."

 

[CleverUserName]

This is peak intelligence, right here.

If you "proved me wrong", then you should ask why TDIclub is supporting vendors that are knowingly damaging their cars...

PROTIP: they aren't.

I'm going to need a minute to break down the massive wall of bs you just spewed all over my screen. Mr. Expert
Edit:
1. You're following me around spewing ad homs based on your feelings that this is a comfy infallable place.

It’s ad hominem. I’m not following you, LOL. I scroll this forum too, just saw another antagonistic post and recognized the username. Just bieng a troll

2. "I do know manufactures use the same engine for multiple platforms with minor revisions. The GM 5.0, 5.7 or Toyota 2.7 and 4.0 come to mind, both in service for 10 years or more. I’m not an expert on Nissan powertrains, never owned a Datsun or Nissan."


You not being an expert on Nissan was evident the moment you defended his ridiculous comparison. The KA24DE, for you noobs, is a 240sx powerplant. It's not "a truck motor". The KA24e truck motor, which oilhammer was obviously alluding to, is an entirely different engine, unless you count completely different blocks, heads, compression ratios, and an extra camshaft as a "minor revision".

never owned a Nissan or Datsun. Don’t care how Nissan identified their engines or which cars they came in. I though I made that clear.

Here's another lesson for you, all of those 5.0s, 5.7s, 2.7s, and 4.0s had NAMES you biggot, or do they all look the same to you?...

It’s bigot and I don’t think that’s the correct insult to use in this situation. Who cares about about their names? You do apparently.

3."I proved you wrong multiple times."
You posted 1 outdated thread, as I said you would. 5+ years old. Pre buyback. I told you new advancements had been made, and gave you a link, but you can't accept that so you bailed on that thread... which brings me back to

there are many threads, a search travels them. Most recent is a thread posted in early April of a 2011 Golf which got a SMF kit from ECS which killed the transmission. Is that recent enough? I suppose this is more “fake news”?https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...ros-new-trans-new-clutch.514433/#post-5656319

4."I do feel bad however when people do searches and find information that’s inaccurate."

So why did you leave my "inaccurate info" from a forum vendor up for all the world to see in the other thread?

What this?

"PLEASE NOTE - As with most of the Single Mass Flywheel Kits, there will be some noise at low RPMs and at idle. This is completely normal and will not damage your gearbox or engine"

“This is” is referencing noise or chatter. Not vibration. Noise or chatter does not shatter carbon steel synchros. It’s actually accurate, but You’re completely blind to the ambiguity of the disclaimer.

Nobody on here has successfully ran an SMF on an 02Q with steel synchros. “Successful” means without eventual damage.

I encourage any vendor (and there are multiple) who is selling SMF kits for a NA equipped 02Q with steel synchros to guarantee that this kit and its additional harmonic vibrations from a TDI will not damage or shorten the life of their transmission. I have never seen anything that says otherwise.

This brings us to your final lesson for the day

5. PROJECTION
"You’re just too arrogant and dense to admit it and keep grasping at straws. Trying to find a shred of something in a lame attempt to discredit multiple members posts on here which prove your assumptions are not based on any facts."

Already answered. See posts above.

 

[90_zeros]

It’s ad hominem. I’m not following you, LOL. I scroll this forum too, just saw another antagonistic post and recognized the username. Just bieng a troll




never owned a Nissan or Datsun. Don’t care how Nissan identified their engines or which cars they came in. I though I made that clear.



It’s bigot and I don’t think that’s the correct insult to use in this situation. Who cares about about their names? You do apparently.



there are many threads, a search travels them. Most recent is a thread posted in early April of a 2011 Golf which got a SMF kit from ECS which killed the transmission. Is that recent enough? I suppose this is more “fake news”?https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...ros-new-trans-new-clutch.514433/#post-5656319

4."I do feel bad however when people do searches and find information that’s inaccurate."



What this?



“This is” is referencing noise or chatter. Not vibration. Noise or chatter does not shatter carbon steel synchros. It’s actually accurate, but You’re completely blind to the ambiguity of the disclaimer.

Nobody on here has successfully ran an SMF on an 02Q with steel synchros. “Successful” means without eventual damage.

I encourage any vendor (and there are multiple) who is selling SMF kits for a NA equipped 02Q with steel synchros to guarantee that this kit and its additional harmonic vibrations from a TDI will not damage or shorten the life of their transmission. I have never seen anything that says otherwise.




Already answered. See posts above.

You're not a troll, you're a butthurt forum junkie that got his feelings hurt when proven wrong by a vendor that knows what they're doing. You are seriously "grasping at straws" if you're going to twists Darkside's comment like that. In all this time, you're the only one who has ever claimed that I call myself an expert. I only continue to engage you to show others how deranged you are.