Westfalia Hitch

[Chris&Yana]

Hello. Im new to the forum. My wife and I have a 2014 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI and are purchasing the Westfalia hitch w/ electrics from PFJones. Is there any one in the Jacksonville Fl. area (or within 50 miles) that could help us install the hitch? Its mainly the electrics that Im thinking I will need most help with. Im willing to pay for assistance. Thanks in advance

 

[redbarron55]

The mechanical is not that hard and you need the vcds to program for the trailer module. There are many threads here that cover this

 

[Chris&Yana]

I have looked at the threads and may attempt it myself. Im assuming the vcds i would buy through pfjones correct? I went from maintaining a 1984 mercedes w123 wagon to this totally different animal so i have a lot to learn here

 

[Rrusse11]

the vcds i would buy through pfjones correct?

No, you get that here; ross-tech.com. Couple it with a laptop and you have a powerful tool for analysis of how your
car is running, basic programming of a huge variety of functions, etc etc. Commonly accepted here the best tool you can get for maintaining and understanding your VW.

 

[Chris&Yana]

Ok thanks Rrusse11. It looks like its around $200 for this. Is this a necessity for the electric to work properly? PfJones says i can use a universal electric kit or dedicated. I don't know the differences between the 2. I'm just wanting the least expensive but safe and functional route due to the hitch and shipping prices. Appreciate any advice.

 

[GolNat]

Which kit did you go with? I am staring to look into hitches and a 2" receiver Curt type hitch is like $300 but I like the idea of having the OEM wire integration. I don't see Sportwagen on the site. I'm guessing it's a Golf Estate that I need?

 

[Chris&Yana]

I appreciate that Dannyboy. I will be pulling an enclosed cargo trailer under 3k lbs. But I may install brakes later and i may want to charge a bettery on the trailer. Will that Tekonsha kit plug into the Westfalia electrics? I apologize if its a dumb quiestion. It wouldnt be so bad if i already had the hitch and electrics in front of me you know?

 

[Chris&Yana]

GolNat,
I didnt purchase it yet. Im still discussing it with Mike at PfJones. This is what he said after i sent him a pic of our car (2014 Jetta Sport Wagon)

The towbar I would recommend is the Westfalia detachable swan neck: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/volkswagen-golf-vi-estate-2009-onwards-westfalia-detachable-towbar.html Westfalia are the original equipment manufacturers for Volkswagen towbars and are pretty much the best towbars on the market.

 

[Chris&Yana]

I appreciate that Dannyboy. I know I'm a bit nervous about this transaction. Was it damaged into disfunction or just cosmetic? Also, what is generally involved to get the T-ESP functions? I'm assuming our car had to come equipped with certain towing options but I have no idea. If T-ESP is generally considered unnecessary I would probably opt for the easier route but, as you plan, I will likely be getting the brakes.

 

[Chris&Yana]

Man, that is so reckless on their part and frustrating on ours. I got time to think about this transaction cause i dont have the funds just yet anyway, but i will likely take the risk cause i really need the extra towing capacity. If there were other us hitch/bar options with the same extra weght limits i would consider that instead. SO, if anyone on here knows other hitches that would match the capacity of westfalia, i would greatly appreciate it.
And I really appreciate your clarification on T- ESP/ESC it makes sense now.

 

[300D]

Frans at Dutch Auto Parts also sells these. Just quoted me $475 brand new and shipped for my MKIV. Price is up from shipping costs being more expensive in the time of COVID. Also, just to throw out there that the Westfalia is rated much higher in terms of load rating vs. the Curt.

 

[kcunniff]

To the OP's original question, whatever hitch rig you buy, I'd recommend Scott Krout at Tint Specialists West would be one to call for installation.

8061 103rd St, Jacksonville, FL 32210
Phone: (904) 772-6700

 

[Chris&Yana]

300D, thank you, i did not know of this US option.
kcunnif, thank you also. My original installer option did not return our call so if i dont install it myself, i may give them a try.

 

[austinroepke]

Frans at Dutch Auto Parts also sells these. Just quoted me $475 brand new and shipped for my MKIV. Price is up from shipping costs being more expensive in the time of COVID. Also, just to throw out there that the Westfalia is rated much higher in terms of load rating vs. the Curt.

To add to this, the towing rating of 2000 lbs vs 3000 lbs in Europe is not due to physical differences in the hitches, but in the road laws for USA vs Europe.

The stability/control (particularly during braking) of a trailer at 70 MPH has the tow rating at 2000 lbs for the United States. Europe is at 3000 lbs and closer to 50 or 55 MPH.

If you have a Westfalia hitch in the United States, you should keep your tow weight at 2000 lbs. If you go to 3000 lbs, you should probably keep your speed at or below 55 MPH, but you will be out of the tow specifications of the United States at any speed.

 

[300D]

300D, thank you, i did not know of this US option.
kcunnif, thank you also. My original installer option did not return our call so if i dont install it myself, i may give them a try.

Not a US option. Frans is in Europe and shipping will be from there...

 

[300D]

To add to this, the towing rating of 2000 lbs vs 3000 lbs in Europe is not due to physical differences in the hitches, but in the road laws for USA vs Europe.

The stability/control (particularly during braking) of a trailer at 70 MPH has the tow rating at 2000 lbs for the United States. Europe is at 3000 lbs and closer to 50 or 55 MPH.

If you have a Westfalia hitch in the United States, you should keep your tow weight at 2000 lbs. If you go to 3000 lbs, you should probably keep your speed at or below 55 MPH, but you will be out of the tow specifications of the United States at any speed.

This is interesting, but aren’t the hitches themselves quite different in how they attach to the body? Which would result in different ratings as well? The Westfalia style hitch replaces the rear sub bumper, while the Curt just bolts in externally?

 

[austinroepke]

This is interesting, but aren’t the hitches themselves quite different in how they attach to the body? Which would result in different ratings as well? The Westfalia style hitch replaces the rear sub bumper, while the Curt just bolts in externally?

I apologize for not having citations. I was looking at Westfalia vs EcoHitch for my JSW in North America a few months ago. When I realized most of the hitches in Europe and North America had the same ratings, I figured the reason the difference between European and US options was due to standards.

I will see if I can find the standards back. They might be listed on the hitch supplier websites.

Physically, they are way different. The benefit of the Westphalia probably isn’t increased tow capacity, but in convenience. I went with an ecohitch due to cost and because 2” receiver parts are somewhat standardized/accessible in North America. My initial consideration for the Westphalia was increased tow capacity.

I believe the load required to fail the hitch mount itself is going to be a function of the cross-sectional area and grade of the bolts that are normal to the direction of travel. The bolts I have are grade 8 and around 5/8” in diameter, so my mental math has the shear at greater than 75,000 lbs since grade 8 is 150,000 lbs/in2. with that load, I’m not sure what the fuse is for failing a hitch.

When just driving down the road, there really isn’t that much of a load on the hitch. At least, not anything I think would make a difference between 2000 and 3000 lbs towed at a constant speed. The difference is how the unbraced trailer reacts to braking at 55 mph vs 70 mph, or at least that’s what the automotive standards believe.

for 2000/200 tow rating, I’m guessing most trailers are single axle. To pull 3000 lbs at 70 mph and have similar braking characteristics that the standards are trying to create, the tongue weight would probably need to be increased to at least 300-400 lbs. in that case, the overloading would cause the car to pitch upwards. To offset that, replacing the rear springs with something that can carry the additional load may be enough.

this is all way out of my area of expertise. I recommend following whatever load ratings are given by manufacturers.

 

[300D]

I apologize for not having citations. I was looking at Westfalia vs EcoHitch for my JSW in North America a few months ago. When I realized most of the hitches in Europe and North America had the same ratings, I figured the reason the difference between European and US options was due to standards.

I will see if I can find the standards back. They might be listed on the hitch supplier websites.

Physically, they are way different. The benefit of the Westphalia probably isn’t increased tow capacity, but in convenience. I went with an ecohitch due to cost and because 2” receiver parts are somewhat standardized/accessible in North America. My initial consideration for the Westphalia was increased tow capacity.

I believe the load required to fail the hitch mount itself is going to be a function of the cross-sectional area and grade of the bolts that are normal to the direction of travel. The bolts I have are grade 8 and around 5/8” in diameter, so my mental math has the shear at greater than 75,000 lbs since grade 8 is 150,000 lbs/in2. with that load, I’m not sure what the fuse is for failing a hitch.

When just driving down the road, there really isn’t that much of a load on the hitch. At least, not anything I think would make a difference between 2000 and 3000 lbs towed at a constant speed. The difference is how the unbraced trailer reacts to braking at 55 mph vs 70 mph, or at least that’s what the automotive standards believe.

for 2000/200 tow rating, I’m guessing most trailers are single axle. To pull 3000 lbs at 70 mph and have similar braking characteristics that the standards are trying to create, the tongue weight would probably need to be increased to at least 300-400 lbs. in that case, the overloading would cause the car to pitch upwards. To offset that, replacing the rear springs with something that can carry the additional load may be enough.

this is all way out of my area of expertise. I recommend following whatever load ratings are given by manufacturers.

Thanks for bringing this up. In looking in to it, it really is not as simple as one has a higher load than the other. It also led me to a fantastic little video about loading your trailer... Super clear demonstration of trailer load distribution:

 

[nicklockard]

Chris I have the westfalia hitch with detachable swan neck I bought for my 2014 Jetta, westfalia is one of the best no question there. I haven't installed mine yet. Mine came damaged among other things and the way it was handled was like speaking to a 2 year old.Hence why I'll never buy from them again.and again your experience may differ.

I love to have the euro T-ESP functions but from what I've seen involved it's not worth it.
Depending on what happens next year I'll be grabbing a tekonsha brake controller and installing this. I hate trailer sway..

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution-Hitch/Tuson-RV-Brakes/335TSC-1000.html

T-ESP is kind of oversold. I use a Tuson DirecLink brake controller and a Hayes Swaymaster as additional protection for sway control. I used to also run a Hensley hitch (sway eliminating, 4-bar linkage), but my driveway is too steep and it was a b***h to connect/disconnect, so I'm selling it.

The Tuson DirecLink brake controller plugs into your OBD and follows your braking perfectly--I rarely have to use manual thumb application except for downhill, off-camber, turning corner at a stoplight near my house. A good brake controller, proper loading, and mainly: SLOWING DOWN will nearly eliminate sway possibility.

Also, commenting on austinroepke's analysis of hitch failures: you're right, it's rarely going to be static forces that cause hitches to fail, but rather bending & twisting moments during extreme braking maneuvers or events--it's the vehicle's unibody-to-hitch interfacial area that become key. From my perspective, some designs clearly show that Finite Elemental Analysis as a completed assembly was done, whereas most American hitch designs are really crude guesswork. You're basically gambling with lives if you're running most 'U-haul' style hitches. (Aside though: Uhaul's trailers are very well designed and clearly have tons of testing and FEA).

Lastly, I also got a rude response from a pfjones customer service rep, but I chalked it up to just not having a vehicle VIN in their native markets.

 

[nicklockard]

100% agree with you. There is alternatives out there and I used many. I do like the idea of T-ESP but never used it. I always towed with surge brakes back when I lived in Europe. Never really had a problem with them, pretty much unlock and drive. Only caused issues when you want to reverse and had to lock it which involves getting out of the vehicle.

Funny enough you mention the Tuson unit, because I'm looking at getting that unit but funds are tight this month. How much was that unit outright if you dont mind me asking?

I think I got it on sale or when the price was cheaper. I recall paying $195. It's $245 on their website now.