Water Wetter, VP Racing Fuels Cool Down additive, Rislone Hy-per Cool etc. etc.

[ApriliaNut]

After reading testimonials for the above, and I'd say 95% were favorable with any where from a 10 to 20 degree reduction in coolant temperature, I was wondering if anybody here had any experience with these kind of products and if it was a good idea to use a cool down additive such as any of these.
I'm in the People's Republik of Kalifornia lower desert and it's not uncommon to see over 110 deg. in the summer here; sometimes even over 120!!
Thanks!

 

[thundershorts]

those claims made by various marketeers rarely if ever is provable in the real world. Mixing anything in the g12-13 is not a good idea, and could void the engine warranty. Stp and slick 50 made claims that not only were bs, but actually destroyed engines.

 

[VernK]

Water Wetter is a proven product and I assume the others are the same formula, as they only appeared after the patents expired on the orginal product. I used it for quite a few years in several cars. That said, its best use in when you run 100% water in the cooling system, where the combination of water wetter & the higher heat capacity of pure water made for very good cooling. And I'm not at all sure that running straight water, even with the anti corrosion parts of the waterwetter product, is a good idea.

Yours
Vern

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Many attempt to fix their hot running vehicle with a drop in promise, not knowing enough to care that it could be a leaking headgasket, plugged radiator causing an issue. Snake oil? More often than not.

As far as Slick50 mentioned I will give this actual testament fact. In another lifetime, years ago, I commuted in 100*+ heat. 200k mile Ford Tempo (remember those?)

blew an oilfilter when leaving work. Several miles later in my oblivious state I noticed it idleing a tad rough at a stop light. New filter add oil...Drove 50k more until a drunk driver decided to head on the car while it was parked.

Slick50 ???

 

[ApriliaNut]

Maybe it's me but your Ford story is confusing....are you saying you ran Slick 50 back then and attribute that fact to the engine not blowing up? Which allowed you to add oil and filter after you discovered said blown oil filter, consequently dodging a bullet and drove it for another 50k???

 

[JELLOWSUBMARINE]

Maybe it's me but your Ford story is confusing....are you saying you ran Slick 50 back then and attribute that fact to the engine not blowing up? Which allowed you to add oil and filter after you discovered said blown oil filter, consequently dodging a bullet and drove it for another 50k???

Yes, I attribute the engine not seizing up due to the slick50. A side of the road oil filter & oil and off we go.

 

[thundershorts]

I personally would,t use anything other than recommended lubricants. Anything claimed by these snake oils has not been supported by widely respected sources. Teflon claims in particular are questionable. Teflon sticks to nothing,

 

[oilhammer]

Solution in search of a problem. And FYI, the engine's cooling system is no more taxed doing its job on a 110F day as it would be on an 80F day. The thermostat regulates the coolant temp. Most pre-CR TDIs struggle to stay hot enough . All the A/C-equipped TDIs (which is all of them sold in the USA) have the super engine cooling capacity afforded by dual multispeed fans and the larger radiator. If your TDI is running "too hot", something is wrong with it.

 

[turbodiesellover]

Many attempt to fix their hot running vehicle with a drop in promise, not knowing enough to care that it could be a leaking headgasket, plugged radiator causing an issue. Snake oil? More often than not.

As far as Slick50 mentioned I will give this actual testament fact. In another lifetime, years ago, I commuted in 100*+ heat. 200k mile Ford Tempo (remember those?)

blew an oilfilter when leaving work. Several miles later in my oblivious state I noticed it idleing a tad rough at a stop light. New filter add oil...Drove 50k more until a drunk driver decided to head on the car while it was parked.

Slick50 ???

I know the true Slick 50 story, and have the original formula that was used, it is the real stuff.
I met the man John Bishop who invented Slick 50 in the 1970’s a few years ago. Long story short, Petrolon, the company that used John Bishop’s patented formula and sold it under Slick 50 name, started screwing John Bishop. John Bishop sued and won. Petrolon (spelling?) could no longer use John Bishops formula in about 1983. Petrolon sold to Quaker State and they kept the Slick 50 name, but the formula was junk and resulted in lawsuits.

If you want the real stuff Xcelplus is the original John Bishop formula.

The Original Slick 50 (pre 1983 or so) had all kinds of tests done on it by different agencies such as the FAA and some universities, and was proven to reduce friction.

I belong to a MLM company Team National and TN used to sell John Bishops products under a different name than Xcelplus, (“Thermo fuse” something). John Bishop used to come to our conventions and I would always go see him. He had rod bearings from a racing engine that was treated with his formula and it clearly had a smooth, slick coating on it. He claimed it was 2 mils thick. Team National stopped selling his products for some reason and had the engine treatment on sale and I bought 3 cases of it, and wish I bought more, although this has and will last me for years.

I treated my Zero Turn Kawasaki engine 10 years ago and noticed it idled higher after the treatment. So I’d say it works.

 

[turbodiesellover]

I have treated my 2014 Passat with 42,000 miles with the Original Slick 50, and haven’t noticed any reductions in operating temperatures or mileage increase yet. I do have real gauges btw... Polar FIS.

 

[Johhny04]

I've used water wetter in motorcycle racing applications and can attest to its job. It does drop the water temperature however it has to be used with water only, no coolant.