water pump timing belt problems

[kb1968]

So saw coolant leaking from the normal spot a water pump would leak (under the front of the vehicle directly inline with where the water pump is) Bought the kit from dieselgeek with the metalnrd tools. Started this morning put the lock carrier in the service position removed the belts and got to removing the 6 mil allens holding the pulley to the crank sprocket. And thats where the problems began only one of the bolts will come out and the other three are so worn the F out from where someone else had removed them and not replaced them before so now i have 3 completely stripped out bolts left and I cannot get them out with everything Ive tried...ez out screw out, taps, damaged bolt removers and they are too close to the center 19 mil stretch bolt to get a good enough grip on with vise grips or anything like that. Ultimately my question would be if i remove that 19 mil bolt what happens? I am a diesel mechanic by trade but this little thing has given my a ton of problems but I love it too much to let it go. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dogdots]

Just pound a 12mm 12 point socket on the ones that are stuck and use an impact gun and they will zap right out. Worst case weld a nut on the end of them and zap them out that way.

No need to waste a crank bolt to get the pulley bolts out.

 

[kb1968]

Epoxy maybe?

Would it be feasible to throw some epoxy on the end of the Allen bit and jam it into the tenants of the hole?

 

[Vince Waldon]

Nope, epoxy won't be strong enough under compression.

"Pounding in a 12mm socket" is actually good advice, or you could invest in a set of sockets designed for exactly this problem... they have reverse grooves that grab the hex-head and bind as you spin it out.



Or is that what you mean by having already tried a "damaged bolt remover"?

Fairly common problem, actually, and one reason many high-quality timing belt kits come with those specific replacement bolts.

And, unfortunately, removing the center bolt is not really a work-around, since in order to do that you need to bolt a 3 or 4 foot crank lock to the sprocket, using those same hex bolts. If you think those hex heads are tight you should see the center bolt. Stepping on the brakes with the car in gear won't do it.

 

[kb1968]

Well dang, I've already tried sockets like those to no avail either can't get a strong enough bite or too thick to fit in the space available

 

[Windex]

Instead of the service position, take the front end off. Doesn't take much more time. Then you will have enough clearance to drill the bolt heads off and get the pulley removed.

 

[Rowingfish87]

Find a torx bit that is a hair bigger than the Allen socket, pound in with hammer and turn it out with a ratchet. Using an impact will just strip it out farther. Also heating the head of the bolt a bit will help loosen its bite on the pulley. Just don't damage the pulley itself with the torch.

If that doesn't work get out the drill bits and tap.

 

[kb1968]

That was actually my next step taking the whole carrier off and hit it with my air drill was trying to avoid having to refill the transmission but oh well gotta do what i gotta do.

 

[vwztips]

Lay the AC condensor to the passenger side, unhook the electrical connections on the driver's side, disconnect turbo hoses to crossover pipe, disconnect radiator hoses and lay the lock carrier down. You do not have to disconnect the tranny lines. I do disconnect them as you only lose 2-3 ounces of fluid IF you lay the lock carrier down before disconnecting.

I have used an air chisel on these bolts before

 

[kb1968]

I think that's I'll do didn't realize I could lay it down without disconnecting the trans lines. Thanks everyone for the ideas got a game plan for after work tomorrow.