VW TDI 2.0L CJAA Engine Head Removal

[gmcjetpilot]

I have engine stripped. Injectors & cam cover tray off and
saw head bolts (triple square which I have). The cams are
in the way of head bolts. Is that correct you have to
remove the cam galley girdle and cams?

EDIT: You do NOT have to remove cams. The Cam shaft
has divots in the shaft to access the bolt heads.

My shop Manual.... Bentley Publishers is not detailed...
Eyeballing it, it looks like removal of camshafts are required
to remove head from bottom end...
ANY TIPS AND TRICKS?
Anyone? Buller? Buller? Buller? Ferris Buller?

 

[gmcjetpilot]

From the pictures you can see I got head off. It was not too bad. You do
have to remove the cams to get at the head bolts (needing a tripple
square socket). EDIT: CAMS CAN STAY IN. SEE POST ABOVE. You may be
able to remove head with turbo manifold and turbo installed, but I would
remove it. You do NOT have to take the intake manifold/flap valve drive or
engine host bracket.

You DO need to remove:
Timing belt, idler pulley, injectors and lines, vacuum pump, coolant
housing, position indicator, valve/cam cover, cam caps (one peice frame),
cams lift out and then the head bolts. After that the head just lifts off
very easily. Once you take head off, all rockers are in position. If you remove
them (they just lift out) make sure you put them in marked trays or bags,
so they go back in same place. I did this with engine out of car, which no
doubt makes it easier. However this can be done in the car easy. The head
weighs about 35-40 lbs.

Spring loaded split spur gear to control backlash, may make getting cams back in tricky with out tool or removing the split gear and sping?

 

[scdevon]

What are you doing with this engine? Is it a rebuild or performance work?

One of my peeves with newer engines in general is that you can't "coffee can" all of the bolts and reuse everything like years ago. Loosen a bolt? Get ready for a trip to the dealer to buy all of their insanely overpriced, magical "torque to yield" fasteners and bolts. Yes, I understand the science behind it. More consistent clamping force. Heat cycling, blah, blah, blah, but it adds a lot of cost to engine work. It makes me want to upgrade to reusable ARP studs and fasteners just to fight the system and these ridiculous "one time use" fasteners.

 

[gmcjetpilot]

What are you doing with this engine? Is it a rebuild or performance work?

One of my peeves with newer engines in general is that you can't "coffee can" all of the bolts and reuse everything like years ago. Loosen a bolt? Get ready for a trip to the dealer to buy all of their insanely overpriced, magical "torque to yield" fasteners and bolts. Yes, I understand the science behind it. More consistent clamping force. Heat cycling, blah, blah, blah, but it adds a lot of cost to engine work. It makes me want to upgrade to reusable ARP studs and fasteners just to fight the system and these ridiculous "one time use" fasteners.

A little late replying. I sold the engine and have been enjoying my new engine now for almost 3 years. I am trying to help another member who is replacing his head.

The bolts are not that much online.

http://www.idparts.com/head-bolt-set-cbeacjaackra-p-4573.html

Need new washers as well, need 10 or about $30.00.