vw diesel into a mazda rx7

12MPGHWY

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I don't know why I didn't mention this before, but there are 2 solutions to sway bar clearance issue's:

There is an aftermarket swaybar that has a dip in it intended for installing a 20B. I think its about 500 dollars.

You can also saftley space the sway bar down a LONG way,
probably an inch or more. There might even be a "kit" for this.

Search the 20B forum of Rx7 club for pictures and more info
 

jimfoo

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Dec 6, 2007
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Evergreen, CO
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1966 Land Rover IDI being converted to TDI
My AAZ had an intergal windage tray/gasket. Nice as it's reuseable. If you tilt the engine, you will need to index the turbo so it's drain is as verticle as possible. This may mean a new drain line although that isn't a big problem. For my water pump, I used an idler pulley off a Range Rover, although I don't know if it would help with the clearance problems. I cut a 1" bolt to clamp it to, and welded it to my motor mount I had to make. Yeah, I know, ugly welds:p.

Also for future refrence, you can put a TDI head(1Z/AHU) and TDI pistons on an AAZ block, and with a pump mod, turn it into a TDI.
 
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lews930

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Thanks guys. 12mpg, I think that if I can tilt the motor over to 50* I will be able to clear the sway bar. Hope fully no need to move it.

Jimfoo yes, I checked the 80-90 club and found numerous articles on the turbo oil line return. I will have to add a return line to the oil pan I'm getting. They also tell me to index the turbo so that the oil lines are at 12 o clock and 6 o clock. I also saw several AAZ motors with a small belt betwen the crank pulley and the water pump so it is possible

Got my new hoist and made a bracket to lift and rotate the motor from the intake manifold. Maybe get to mess with it tomorrow
 

jgshriver

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Lewis... I've actually have the same idea in mind to help deal with the cost of my 110 mile daily commute. My idea is to build a TDI powered RX7 that runs on veggie oil!

http://www.greasecar.com/

Good luck,
Greg
2000 Passat 1.8T commuter
1974 Porsche 911 track car
1990 RX7 awaiting TDI Veggie transplant
 

lews930

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See guys I knew I wasnt the only crazy person in the world:) I plan to rotate the motor over to 50* or so tomorrow to see if it will clear the hood and steering rack. If it goes like I think iit will I will give the machinist the go ahead to build the adapter plate. I have a 50* oil pan on hold but I want to make sure the motor is going to fit before commiting to the purchase. more later

lewis
 

lews930

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I tilted the motor today. It wont fit at 50*. the turbo will hit the passenger side strut tower if I tilt it that far. It looked good at about 65* plenty of clearance between the shock tower and the hood. I currently have it in the donor car with the hood closed:) I am going to have to notch the center support to drop the oil pan into as the pan is sitting on the support right now. At least the a/c compressor can stay in place. If I get lucky the p/s pump may stay as well. Tilting it will make the fab of the motor mounts so much easier as I can actually see under the oil filter. Do these motors torque to the rear or front when in the jettas and golfs?

I have some pics but cant upload to this site. If you guys know of a way to share them please let me know. I'm not real computer savvy just emails and such.

I have a 50* oil pan from a vanagon lined up. If I only tilt the motor to 65* do you think the pan will still be ok to useor should I cut it and get the exact angle needed?

The machinist tells me he can index the adapter plate to any angle I choose but at $350 per I want to get it right the first time.
 

12MPGHWY

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The issues with tilting a motor are oil pickup and oil drain.

When tilted to 65 deg will the pickup tube still be allways in the oil?

Will oil be able to drain out of the head?

Keep cornering forces in mind



lews930 said:
I tilted the motor today. It wont fit at 50*. the turbo will hit the passenger side strut tower if I tilt it that far. It looked good at about 65* plenty of clearance between the shock tower and the hood. I currently have it in the donor car with the hood closed:) I am going to have to notch the center support to drop the oil pan into as the pan is sitting on the support right now. At least the a/c compressor can stay in place. If I get lucky the p/s pump may stay as well. Tilting it will make the fab of the motor mounts so much easier as I can actually see under the oil filter. Do these motors torque to the rear or front when in the jettas and golfs?

I have some pics but cant upload to this site. If you guys know of a way to share them please let me know. I'm not real computer savvy just emails and such.

I have a 50* oil pan from a vanagon lined up. If I only tilt the motor to 65* do you think the pan will still be ok to useor should I cut it and get the exact angle needed?

The machinist tells me he can index the adapter plate to any angle I choose but at $350 per I want to get it right the first time.
 
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Rub87

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Belgium
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Ibiza '99 90HP
Drop the top mount turbo idea an there will be space enough imo..

Use AHU manifold, or vnt turbo off alh..
 

lews930

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Rub87, any idea of what I should expect to pay for the parts you are recommending?

12mpg, the vanagons had the motor at 50* so I'm guessing the oil will drain. 65* should make the oil drain easier. I will have to make a return line into the oil pan for the turbo feed.
 

lews930

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Please name the parts specifically. also is the turbo variable pitch or fixed? I want to stay simple until I learn more about the VW motors.

thanks

lewis
 

Rub87

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Ibiza '99 90HP
I think in the us the parts are relatively cheap as everybody is putting bigger turbo's on their cars the oem units are gathering dust..

You have the kkk k03, of a 90hp AHU or 1Z engine, wastegate trubo, good for 120-125bhp, then you have the vnt15, variable geometry turbo, good for 140-145 hp..

you can put a plate on top of the aaz intake manifold where normally the inlet is, and then make the inlat at the fore or aft side, then you maybe gain some room at the strut tower..
 

lews930

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How are these variable turbos actuated, vacuum or computer? even with the extra h.p. (which eats diesel as well) I think the simpler the bettter

lewis
 

Rub87

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Ibiza '99 90HP
vacuum actuuated computer controlled, but you can make it mechanical, look on vw gtd forum, if use wastegate unit you only need a boost control device to regulate the boost..
 

lews930

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Another request for info. Which way do these motors torque? If in a Jetta for example, does it torque backwards or forwards? the answer to this will help with my plan.

My oil pan should be here tomorrow and I hope to check my clearances then.

thanks

lewis
 

lews930

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Rub, can I use my AAz turbo on the AHU exhaust manifold?

I'm having a time trying to find a AHU turbo setup. Ive checked thissite and ebay. any other ideas?

lewis
 

Rub87

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Ibiza '99 90HP
No, flange is different..

Should be turbos enough.. it are K03 units, good for 120-130bhp..
 

lews930

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diesel yes, but it's a chevette diesel. I'd be surprised if it could actually move the car. SO I'll have the first VW powered RX7.
 

bigblue

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He can probably still claim the title of the first turbo diesel FC
 

lews930

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Here's the latest. I dropped off the engine and Mazda tranny Monday at the machine shop. we did some measurements for the clutch/flywheel offset and decided on machinig and drilling the mazda flywheel to fit the VW crank. I gave all the dimensional drwaings to the machinist(thanks to all that sent them to me). I gave him a deposit to start and he said he should have something within 2 weeks. He's a production shop so he has to fit it in.

I will update when I have the adapter

lewis
 

12MPGHWY

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Your using a stock mazda flywheel, or an aftermarket one?

lews930 said:
Here's the latest. I dropped off the engine and Mazda tranny Monday at the machine shop. we did some measurements for the clutch/flywheel offset and decided on machinig and drilling the mazda flywheel to fit the VW crank. I gave all the dimensional drwaings to the machinist(thanks to all that sent them to me). I gave him a deposit to start and he said he should have something within 2 weeks. He's a production shop so he has to fit it in.

I will update when I have the adapter

lewis
 

Rub87

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Don't forget to put TDC marking on the new flywheel.. always handy when doing timing belt or seeting pump timing..

And Btw, I woulnd't use the mazda flywheel as it has a counterwieght built in.. maybe the counterweight can be milled of..

Or use an aftermarket on that is supposed to go on the counterweight wich normally is only used for automatic gearbox equiped engines..

I think those aftermarket flywheels's bolt pattern ins't so far of TDI, but problem is the mazda bolts are evenly distributed while the vw ones aren't..
 

12MPGHWY

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Thats what I was thinking, that would be a hell of a lot of milling, the counterweights is about 10 pounds, and the flyweel is cast iron.

Rub87 said:
Don't forget to put TDC marking on the new flywheel.. always handy when doing timing belt or seeting pump timing..

And Btw, I woulnd't use the mazda flywheel as it has a counterwieght built in.. maybe the counterweight can be milled of..

Or use an aftermarket on that is supposed to go on the counterweight wich normally is only used for automatic gearbox equiped engines..

I think those aftermarket flywheels's bolt pattern ins't so far of TDI, but problem is the mazda bolts are evenly distributed while the vw ones aren't..
 

lews930

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The stock mazda fly wheel weighs 24lbs. I believe I read on this site that the VW fly wheel weighs 20lbs. I think I can shave 4lbs off without problem. A portion of the weight will come from the cone in the center. Remember, this is all a work in progress. I dont want to buy a bunch of stuff that doesnt work. Anyway, I hope to have something to show soon.

lewis

Anyone know why I cant post pictures on this thread? I would love to show the progress
 

TDIsyncro

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lews930 said:
The stock mazda fly wheel weighs 24lbs. I believe I read on this site that the VW fly wheel weighs 20lbs. I think I can shave 4lbs off without problem. A portion of the weight will come from the cone in the center. Remember, this is all a work in progress. I dont want to buy a bunch of stuff that doesnt work. Anyway, I hope to have something to show soon.

lewis

Anyone know why I cant post pictures on this thread? I would love to show the progress
I could be wrong, but I think the point is that you need to remove all the counterweight from the flywheel, ie - 10lbs. That will leave you with 14lbs, a nice performance spec flywheel :0). An external counterweight would put your engine out of balance since it is internally balanced. Please correct me if I am wrong in my understanding of whats being said.
 

Rub87

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Ibiza '99 90HP
Yes, the wankel engine uses a of center weight in the flywheel and at the front of the engine to work again the of center rotating mass of the rotors, otherwise the engine would go left and right all the time..

You need to mill so much off the flywheel until it's fully in balance..

Here you can see pic of aftermarket flywheel that doesn't have the balance weigt in it..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACT-XACT-PROLITE-FLYWHEEL-RX7-RX8-FC3S-FD3S_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a552Q7c39Q3a1Q7c65Q3a12QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem190227246329QQitemZ190227246329
 

lews930

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The stock fly wheel does have a counter weight. It only needs to be balanced regardless of how much weight is taken off. A lighter fly wheel would be nice but I'm in the "get it running and driving stage". I will address lighter fly wheels and bigger turbos in the future. Remember, my goal was to have a 40 mpg commuter car not a diesel rocket. see my sig for the rocket:)
 
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