Hydraulic clutch - master/slave configuration. Pretty standard. You should be able to adapt it to your car (if it has a hydraulic clutch master) by simply hooking them together with the right line. If you have a hydraulic/hose shop in town, they should be able to build you a line with the right connections on either end.lews930 said:BTW, how does the clutch get actuated on these VW motors?
I just found it on a website a while back where somebody swapped a TDi engine into a vanogan so I saved it. I remember somebody else mentioning that website on this forum so I'm surprised nobody else chimed in before me. For a limited time I'll host it.Pat Dolan said:Lewis:
BTW: Could you ask BIGBLUE to share the CAD drawing? It may be the most valuable bit of VW tech stuff in the world of swapping (engine, not wife).
Could you mean the mazda's bearing sits in the end of a concentric shaft? That's generally how they go together but I suppose a wankle shaft may have been machined with an eccentric bearing blind hole in the end. Either way if you bring your machinist the enigine and transmission he should be able to figure out what to do. 12mpghwy probably knows them much better than I do.lews930 said:I'm not sure what to do about the pilot bearing that will be missing. The Mazda's bearing sits in the end of the eccntric shaft. Soother than a really thick spacer between the crank and fly wheel I dont know what to do.
je said:I drove mine for a while with the PS fuse pulled. Steering was hard at low speeds, but it was a lot more fun. It should be easier to do with the PS fluid ports at the rack bridged, not pushing against that pump.
Like above there's a manual rack available if you look around. Not sure how easy it is to find any more.