Verdict on 0W30 oils?

Victor Huge

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Hi friends,
Been doing a lot of searching on here and all over the web regarding the new 0W30 oils, and i heard good things about the pennzoil platinum gas to liquid stuff that’s on sale at Canadian Tire until tomorrow, picked up four jugs on sale for $39.99 CAD each.

I drive a fairly short distance from home to work (8min/6.5km) that without the coolant heater, I’d probably never fully warm up during the winter. As such i feel this thinner oil would be a better choice during the cold in Alberta but can’t find much in regards to extended use.

Can anyone speak to any oil consumption or lack thereof? Perhaps a used oil analysis?

Thanks!
 

Vince Waldon

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Not an oil guy but I do know it needs to at least have a diesel rating (CF) somewhere in the alphabet soup of designations, which the generic Pennzoil Platinum does not appear to have according to their website (I say "appear" in case I missed it!)

The Pennzoil Euro version does list a CF designation, dunno if that was what you picked up?
 

Victor Huge

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Sorry, i forgot to mention it’s the euro that’s 507 rated. Should be good for our little diesels but i worry about longevity i guess.
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

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Legit question. Hopefully the usual oil backlash crew wont tear into this thread, there are a few pissy pants this seems to irritate. As with other oil sample guys here, I personally find this subject interesting. Theres a reason so many cars are 100k mile throw aways, burning a qt. every 500 miles. Yeah I get modern engines have tighter clearances, extreme emphasis on mpg & emmisions numbers... yada yada. But what about real world engine life? Toyota has found their oil burning engines have stuck/coked oil rings due to extended oil use (thier spec.'s). So much so thousands where recalled for new pistons & ring replacements.

I sampled my wifes Subaru (new until when sold @ 30k). It called for 0w20. That weight just seemed alittle extreme to me. I experimented with running 5w30. It didnt seem to effect wear numbers much. But I'm personally in the increased frequency oil change camp, especially with high regeneration temperatures
 

740GLE

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In my mind, if its 507, what more to worry about?

its not like these are PD dependant on specific oil.
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

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In my mind, if its 507, what more to worry about?

its not like these are PD dependant on specific oil.
They kind of are, unfortunately the low ash content for the DPF is why, what i believe, is why iron and chrome wear numbers are on average, MUCH higher than non DPF 507
 

pedroYUL

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Unlike PD engines, these have roller followers which takes a lot of friction out of the equation. I am currently running the 0w30 the dealer had for a good price until recently, but I also have used Pento SP3 5w30.

My PD only drinks Pento HP2 and it's quite happy with it.
 

turbobrick240

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The Pennzoil and Mobil1 0w30 507 oils are of very high quality. No downside whatsoever vs. a 5w30 507 oil.
 

Victor Huge

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I've definitely seen comments on how the lower viscosity oil is bad for the engine, I've also seen others saying how fuel economy went up with it. Nothing really suggesting wear is higher (with any proof really). The neat part is that this engine has a switchable oil pump and if you want, can run it at higher pressure.

At the end of the day and after much thought, I think that I'll benefit in terms of wear due to the short trips in winter. I'll report back (due for oil change in June) if there's any increase in oil consumption as right now it's zero.

Our 2016 TSI SportWagen on the other hand that we've had since new is starting to consume a fair amount on 5w40...

Thanks!
 

Nuje

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Isn't the oil spec on those small gas turbos the same 504.00/507.00 as our TDIs?

I know the 1.4 on our 2016 A3 e-tron has the 504.00 spec; makes oil purchasing a little easier with only that one oil needed for our two cars (2015 TDI and the e-tron).
 

turbobrick240

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It's the same viscosity at operating temp. as the 5w30 507. It just flows better in extreme cold. Ages ago people worried that oils with greater viscosity index (ie 0w30, 5w40, 0w40) were more susceptible to shear forces and viscosity breakdown over long intervals. That really isn't an issue with the high quality synthetic oils of today. But you'll find people still hanging on to the ancient beliefs that 3k mile intervals are best, or Pennzoil will sludge your motor, or only monograde oils are suitable etc. Cause that's what ol' pappy told them.
 

JM Popaleetus

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I use VW's 0W-30 or Mobile 1 FS (Euro) 0W-40 in literally everything...my car, my parent's, my brother's. Depends if newer with DI/DPF/warranty or older.

Though I did take advantage of Advance Auto's promo this weekend of 5qt Pennzoil Ultra Platinum + "Synthetic" Filter for $43. In other words any big name synthetic oil with the appropriate certification will work.
 
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x1800MODMY360x

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The dealer after they replaced my turbo used 0w30, I live in a hot climate and had 5w30 still left over from a buying spree. So I switch back.

0w30 isn't bad if you live in a colder climate.
 

turbobrick240

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It isn't bad in a hot climate either. It's a 30 weight oil, just like 5w30, 10w30, or straight 30 weight. These cars aren't pro mod dragsters making 3000 HP- they don't need a monograde 60 weight :). You're not going to shear it down over 10k intervals.
 

740GLE

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They kind of are, unfortunately the low ash content for the DPF is why, what i believe, is why iron and chrome wear numbers are on average, MUCH higher than non DPF 507
Right but I thought the concerns were a 0W30 vs 5W30 of the original 507 spec, not using a low ash vs high ash oil.

There were issues with those PD and changing weights causing cam issues.
 

JELLOWSUBMARINE

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Right but I thought the concerns were a 0W30 vs 5W30 of the original 507 spec, not using a low ash vs high ash oil.
Yes gotcha, but along with O.P.'s looking for possible warm up characteristics gains from a lighter weight oil, extended use was a concern.
My input (post #4 & 6) was probably more to the - extended oil question and what I saw in my oil analysis between 0w20 & 5w40.
Hi friends,
Been doing a lot of searching on here and all over the web regarding the new 0W30 oils,
short distance from home to work (8min/6.5km) that without the coolant heater, I’d probably never fully warm up during the winter.
As such i feel this thinner oil would be a better choice during the cold in Alberta
but can’t find much in regards to extended use.

Can anyone speak to any oil consumption or lack thereof? Perhaps a used oil analysis?
 

Victor Huge

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Alberta
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Mk7 Golf TDI
Extended use is a concern for sure, I wonder what effect would running the switchable oil pump in the high pressure mode have on things?

In any case, if I recall correctly, the ALH started life on 15w40 and was switched to 5w40 only due to turbocharger oil feed plugging issues: quite a big drop in viscosity. I think the smaller drop from 5w to 0w should be fine, although I admit some confirmation bias seeing as I have four jugs of the 0w stuff...
 

turbobrick240

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There is no drop in viscosity at operating temps. Both are 30 weight oils. The "w" in 0w30 is for "winter" not "weight". If you get your oil changed at a dealership in Florida, or Texas, or Arizona, you are going to get 0w30. It's not a problem. 0w16 would be a problem- because a 16 weight oil is not sufficient. All you need to worry about is the 507 spec. If it meets that, you're fine anywhere in the world. I also wouldn't worry about the oil pump. Let it operate the way it was designed. There's no need for 60 psi of oil pressure below 3000 rpm. 30 psi is fine.
 

Victor Huge

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Just want to update that I finally did an oil change and no issues. I swear it feels like the engine revs easier though, takes a touch longer for rpm to come down during shifts which is off benefit to me as I'm not exactly slamming those gears.

I have no data to support this, but I expected zero difference and noted the easier revs... Interesting to say the least.

Also the Pennzoil gas to liquid oil has a very different smell
 

Martin Winterkorn

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I've been running Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 for the last 50k miles with no issues. I believe it to provide the best all around performance, particularly in the summers here when in consistently 105*-110* daily.
 

Victor Huge

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Fair enough, but you will receive no warranty if you ever need it using the wrong oil. I'm not modified so I'll stick to approved oils, but we all know Rotella is good stuff 😉

For cold Alberta and shorter trips, I'm happy with the 0w30, will see how it helps in the winter.
 
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Victor Huge

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I'm curious, i've been trying to figure this out but can't seem to hit the search jackpot:

Is it a 30 weight oil with friction modifiers to make it thinner when cold or is it the other way around, a 5 weight oil with modifiers to thicken it when hot? Can't find much other than "it's multigrade"...
 

JM Popaleetus

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Multigrade oils are made by taking a base stock (i.e., the W weight*) and adding viscosity modifiers to change how it performs when heated.

*Asterisked for a lack of better words. The actual W weight is also achieved by adding modifiers to a base stock to both change its cold behavior and increase protection. But for the purposes of your question, you can think of the W weight (or a SAE straight-weight) as the base stock.
 

Victor Huge

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One more update, I'm hearing what I've always attributed to the lifters ticking at startup more often. I would often get that noise if I've been running the coolant heater in winter and the engine got nice and toasty, almost like the hydraulic lifters drained of oil?

I'm not really concerned, but it's proof the oil is a tad thinner I guess...
 

740GLE

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could also be the injectors just dumping fuel in to warm up emissions quicker.
 
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