#1 sensitivity of Turbo (how big and how easy are the boost spikes)
#2 IQ settings
#3 fuel type
#4 driving styles
For #1 you need a boost gauge - and this would be considered a "performance" mod and shouldn't be done without a boost gauge. If the turbo is extremely sensitive you could be at greater risk.
For #2, the IQ settings, this is read in the adaptation area, lower numbers = more fuel and the position of this could be very important in determining if you want to move the adaptations. Rule of thumb: the more fuel you add the more power you make and the more dangerous advancing with adaptations becomes. IE injectors = more fuel, Chip = more fuel, Tuning Box = more fuel - add in combination and you can have problems. Some of these fuel additions can be augmented or dimished by adjusting the IQ, but changing the IQ can require the special 3 sided socket the metalnerd had for sale.
Now on #3 (fuel type) ignition delay is what is important. Those New Englanders with their low Cetane fuel need more advance relative to the Californians and their High Cetane ULSD stuff they can get. BioDiesel also affects this. BioD effectively retards the ignition delay from my experience (YMMV). So if you set it up for low cetane fuel and suddenly give it some powerful stuff like that 50 cetane Getty in Tyson's Corner Virginia . . . WATCHOUT. This isn't something you want to be fiddling with after you fuel the car
And last #4. Driving styles. How you drive the car and the type of commute you do will impact the engine's longevity with the mod. You could be at the limit or in the danger zone but spend 99% of the driving time at steady state cruise control and as long as you always monitored the throttle and the boost and kept the peak power down (and fueling down) you won't be in any danger.
As GoFaster has said many a times - all the cars have a nice convienient power regulator: your right foot - if you don't use the power you are fine. WOT at all times isn't great but it is worse around 2,000 for the engine.
Yeah this all should be said in the previous many threads on timing adaptation, but this isn't a bad place to put it. So if you can determine what the Upsolute advance then that would help you decide what to do. You can always try it, but if you blow, you fix
Thanks for the reply. I live at 8600 feet altitude and commute to 6000 ft. From what I recall from gassers, 1 degree advance for every 1000 ft elevation from sea level. I will play it safe, until I hear from Valois or Gerrett and only up the adaptation 300 pooints or about 3 degrees and not the 5 obtained from the +500 increase in adaptation number. If boundless and jsrmonster are correct there isn't any added advance with the Upsolute chip, but I'll be conservative at first.
Having not heard a word for the Upsolute guys about it I decided to advance my timing and be the first to try it with an Upsolute chip. I upped that adaptation number the whole 500. It shows my timing at 7.2, it started at 2.5 when the 32768 number was in there, because I am doing this at 8600 ft and I guess the ECU adjusts based on elevation.
Yes, I had just driven 26 miles from work at 6000 ft to home at 8600 ft. The main thing I have noticed is that the black smoke puff is gone, that has been there ever since chipping. Also at 2200 to 3000 rpm's it accelleates quicker and smoother. The higher base advance I believe is due to the altitude, that the ECU attempts to compensate for. The day before I upped it by 300 (3 degrees) and the advance was showing 5.5, the smoke was gone then so I decided to go the whole 9 yards so to speak.
yes that sounds about right Kent (altitude compensated timing).
What is your IQ set at? It might be safer (although slightly slower) to set that number at 5.0 or so, ESP if you are sitting at 2-4 right now. Its adaptations block 01. Setting it at 5.0 will slow the car down but it might make the turbo last at altitude a bit better.