Phantom's 1997 Jetta GL IDI AAZ Manual

[phantom1260]

Just picked this up last week. Starts, Runs, and Stops surprisingly well. Paint is in good condition given the age. Few rust bubbles here and there.

It has some rodent damage. Speed Sensor wiring is chewed up, as a result the Speedo does not work nor the odometer. Tach, Temp and Fuel gauge work. Although the fuel gauge will move when going through turns etc.

Then there's the larger I believe 28 pin round connecter it's referred to. That has a few wires chewed out as well but I'm not sure what those are for. The temp gauge seems to operating correctly so I guess I can omit that. What else does this connect to? I see some wire going to the pump but I though that was all mechanical so not sure what those are for. I believe it also connects to the oil pressure sensor. I do get the oil pressure light on the dash for 2 seconds after starting but then it goes away.

Don't have timing belt history so will be getting that done next week sometime.

Previous owner said it needed a clutch and battery. For me both the clutch and battery have not caused me any issues over the last week.

List of other issues below.

Airbag light is on.
Radio does not work - lights up green but buttons do not work. Just has a burned in display that does not change.
Cruise does not work - probably related to the speed sensor wiring missing
Front Indicator light stays solid when lights are turned on. Right side bulb is missing - I'm told this is probably a bad ground.
Rear indicators flash fast - Possibly due to the front right bulb missing.
Washer fluid tank has a leak
Bumper needs to be reattached from right side
Rear left door handle and lock assembly is disassembled

 

[Johhny04]

Nice find. With some effort seems to be a decent daily driver.

 

[Vince Waldon]

Wires in and around the IP include:

- a timing advance solenoid (you can see it in one of your pictures)
- the fuel shutoff solenoid, of course
- microswitches on both ends of throttle travel that turn the turbo on/off and disengage the A/C under full throttle

SOP is to delete all that stuff... I believe the timing advance solenoid gets wired in parallel with the fuel shutoff solenoid, but I don't recall how best to delete the throttle microswitchs so that the turbo and A/C are full-time.

If no one here knows someone over at vwdiesel.net will.

 

[phantom1260]

That's helpful info,

Seems I can dig into those later then. I'll probably take a crack at the speed sensor harness first. Would be nice to have the odometer working to track MPG.

I'll also hook up the vagcom and see if the obd port works. That might tell me more.

 

[compu_85]

Or you could... you know... just fix the 5 wires that drive those items.

-J

 

[phantom1260]

Well yes, I was actually just counting up the wires on the connector as well right now from the picture. As you said since the number of wires is so low it should be fairly easy to just pull apart more of the loom/tape and just patch up the wiring.

 

[Steve Addy]

Interesting car....would love to have a photo of the build decal in the trunk (on the fuel sender cover). Also some pics of the interior too.

For 1997 (in Canada) you could get either the IDI or the TDI powered car. At least that's what I've read anyway.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

I was able to get a picture of the build decal earlier. Will get some of the interior as well.

Took off the speed sensor connector today. Will try to de-pin the connector and get some new wires in.

In addition to chewing out the wires there's a whole ton of mouse nest in the air vents system. Definitely do not want to be breathing that stuff in.

 

[Vince Waldon]

You probably know this already, but probably the biggest weakness in the AAZ engine was the design of the crank snout, which in combination with a bolt that was often improperly installed and an alternator without a decoupling clutch caused the keyway to wallow out.

Given enough slippage between the crank and sprocket eventually pistons meet valves.

This can be mitigated somewhat by keeping a careful eye for lateral wobble of the harmonic balancer, as seen from above... but one can consider pulling the crank bolt at some point, carefully inspecting the snout and sprocket, and then reassembling with a new bolt torqued to factory spec, so that you know it's done right. AAZ cranks are getting pretty hard to find.

On my AAZ I also retrofitted a clutched alternator pulley...dunno if it helped but it didn't hurt and the car lived many years until I upgraded to a TDI.

 

[compu_85]

Adding the clutched alt pulley is an excellent idea. I put one on my Mercedes, it makes the belt run much smoother.

-J

 

[Vince Waldon]

I just think about what all that vibration and back-torque does to the poor slot cut in the end of the crank snout.

Particularly given the torque pulses of a diesel engine.

Here's a good thread on vwdiesel.net with the part number for the pulley that fits the AAZ alternator, some before and after video, etc etc.

Clutched alternator pulley upgrade on AAZ - page 1 - FAQ/Tech Tips/Please Read First - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

Clutched alternator pulley upgrade on AAZ - page 1 - FAQ/Tech Tips/Please Read First - VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.

vwdiesel.net

Sorry for the rabbit hole on this one OP....sometimes search brings people back to threads like this.

 

[phantom1260]

Was able to de-pin the speed sensor connector. Ordered some replacement JPT terminals from Digi-Key.





About the Crank Pulley keyway, when I called my mechanic about getting the timing belt done he started recalling this exact issue when these cars were more common in his shop many years ago. He's going to have a look and address accordingly during the timing belt job.

I did some of the other most likely previously neglected services this weekend.

Changed the engine oil. The oil filter I got from the parts store originally was a few sizes too big. It threaded fine but the filter diameter was too wide. Not sure if it was for the TDI maybe..? Luckily the filter I took off had part numbers on it so I was able to quickly grab the right one.

While doing the oil change I noticed the left side outer CV boot is torn. Gonna order a CV shaft and try to get that done next week.

Changed out the Gear oil as well. I was able to use the fill adapter I had for the DSG on my MK5 which was nice.

Put in a new Air Filter, previous one seemed to be a mesh style and was completely black.

I ordered the fuel filter from the dealer, Once it arrives will get that in as well. For these older cars is cycling the key good enough to prime the system or does it require VCDS as well?

Was able to get the 12V socket working just needed a new fuse.

Wipers still don't work I've checked the fuses under the dash. Relay 196 clicks when the wiper stalk is pressed down. I guess I'll check power at the motor and see if the motor is seized or something.

Radio display does not work correctly but I assume it's in Safe Mode. The dealer wanted $140 to pull the code. I'm going to pull the radio and see if the code is maybe written on it somewhere.

I think I need a replacement rear right side door lock. It was removed when I got the car. I had a look at it. Does not click shut when depressed. Just opens right back up. I took it apart but could not figure out how to keep it in a locked position.

Front Passenger door sometimes decided not to open after some banging around it'll open again. I lubed up the locks, hopefully that will help.

 

[Vince Waldon]

I ordered the fuel filter from the dealer, Once it arrives will get that in as well. For these older cars is cycling the key good enough to prime the system or does it require VCDS as well?

Your AAZ is 100% mechanical; there's no ECU for VCDS to talk to (the ODB2 port is there incase there's a gas engine in the car).

Likewise, no in-tank fuel pump run off the key; the injection pump lifts fuel all the way from the fuel tank thru the filter and into the hi-pressure side itself.

So, important to completely pre-fill the new fuel filter with clean diesel fuel before installation, and it may need to crank a bit and run rough as it purges out any air that got in while the filter was being changed.

 

[turbodieseldyke]

the fuel gauge will move when going through turns etc.

I don't know if this is a feature or a bug, but I like this. Not a big fan of "buffered" gauges.

 

[Steve Addy]

The larger (wider) oil filter is actually preferred over the smaller. I'm sure the larger filter was specified on the AAZ over the smaller, if you look at 96 or 95 VW Jetta turbo diesel (Canada only cars) they specify the larger filter.

The larger filter was always specified on the diesel cars until the advent of the TDI. All 1.6D / TD cars used the larger filter.

I hope you did not use a GL5 gear lube in the 5 speed trans.....that would need to be changed out right away.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

I spun on the larger filter first but since the filters mating surface was larger than the car side I wasn't confident in leaving it on. I could see oil still dripping from the top of housing before I even put new oil in. Didn't want to chance it. The surface on the car is square and the round filter was extending past the square. Not sure if that's clear kind of hard to explain.


Originally I bought some Royal Purple 75W-90 which stated GL-4 & GL-5 spec but after reading some more into this I picked up Redline MT-90 which is just GL-4

 

[compu_85]

Your AAZ is 100% mechanical; there's no ECU for VCDS to talk to (the ODB2 port is there incase there's a gas engine in the car).

The idle speed boost / preglow module might be diagnostic capable? I'm not sure. I can't recall if the one on the 1993 car I messed with was.

-J

 

[Steve Addy]

I spun on the larger filter first but since the filters mating surface was larger than the car side I wasn't confident in leaving it on. I could see oil still dripping from the top of housing before I even put new oil in. Didn't want to chance it. The surface on the car is square and the round filter was extending past the square. Not sure if that's clear kind of hard to explain.

Originally I bought some Royal Purple 75W-90 which stated GL-4 & GL-5 spec but after reading some more into this I picked up Redline MT-90 which is just GL-4

While the oil cooler is square, the mating surface is round where the filter gasket seats. I would guess that if you're seeing a drip then it's the oil cooler o-ring that's failing and will need to be addressed.

Ravenol makes a GL4 synthetic gear oil. Not sure how that compares to MT-90, but I've been happy with it.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

Pulled the radio today, there are a few 4 digit codes on there, not sure if any are actually the radio code.

Is there anyplace that can pull the code from the serial? Other than that I can try a few more dealerships I guess.

 

[Steve Addy]

That must be the Premium Audio radio. If you can't find a dealer that'll give you a code then maybe an online service will be able to provide it.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

I was able to get the code through an online service. Even though the display is not working 100% correctly I was able to enter the code and get the radio working.

I was trying to heat up the glue on the FPC connection in order to repair the LCD. It works temporarily but once everything cools down it goes back to the bleeding display.




I'm thinking of trying to solder in a bluetooth module into the radio to keep the stock look but also be able to connect to my phone.

 

[Steve Addy]

I was able to get the code through an online service. Even though the display is not working 100% correctly I was able to enter the code and get the radio working.

I was trying to heat up the glue on the FPC connection in order to repair the LCD. It works temporarily but once everything cools down it goes back to the bleeding display.

I'm thinking of trying to solder in a bluetooth module into the radio to keep the stock look but also be able to connect to my phone.

You can replace the LCD panel in these, it's not really all that hard.

That's a Clarion radio IIRC, it has the bump on the cassette door and I believe the Panasonic version doesn't.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

Yes it is a clarion. Where would I find a replacement LCD? Didn't think I'd be able to get parts for a radio this old

 

[Steve Addy]

Yes it is a clarion. Where would I find a replacement LCD? Didn't think I'd be able to get parts for a radio this old

There's a guy in Toronto (IIRC) who sells a lot of VW stuff, he's all over on FB and sometimes on Vortex too, he would probably have one, or hit the salvage yard and see if you can find one.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

Got the harness put back together. Finally have a working speedometer and odometer.

Had the timing belt changed as well as precaution.

Onto the non functional wipers now.

I tested the connector at wiper motor it is getting voltage at pin 1 when the wiper switch is activated. So most likely need to replace the motor.

I will remove it and see if moves without being connected to the linkage and rule out it being a seized linkage issue.

Wouldn't want to put on a new one only to burn it out again. I guess a fuse should blow before the motor.

 

[Steve Addy]

Fortunately these motors were used in tons of models....even New Beetle IIRC, so there should be a lot of used motors out there, just ask for interchange from parts seller and get one from as new a vehicle as possible.

Steve

 

[phantom1260]

Put in a new wiper motor and wipers are fully operational again. Was also able to repair the washer fluid tank to hold fluid.

Now the car has developed an oil leak. A few spots under where I've been parking. These weren't there in the first few weeks. Not sure if the new oil caused something weird to happen with the seals or if the level was just too low before for it to be leaking.

The whole engine bay was always very dirty and oil grime is everywhere. I will try to take the belly cover off and see if I can find the source.

 

[ToddA1]

I will try to take the belly cover off and see if I can find the source.

That thing is going to be filthy gross. I know they serve a purpose, but I get rid of them. I’m also lazy and don’t like installing or removing them.

-Todd

 

[starrd]

Originally I bought some Royal Purple 75W-90 which stated GL-4 & GL-5 spec but after reading some more into this I picked up Redline MT-90 which is just GL-4

I have some experience with MT-90 in winter (-20 to -40 degC). If you find you are getting a second gear grind and difficult shifting with a cold tranmission, switch to MTL 75W80. It made a big difference with mine. And, my transmission now has 823,000 km's with the only issue being the 5th gear hub/slider which causes the transmission to not want to come out of 5th below 80 km/hr. Not caused by the oil, just too many km's in 5th.

 

[phantom1260]

Looked into the leak situation a bit today. My best guess would be the where the CCV breather hose connects right above the oil cooler. Both the breather hose and oil pan had a excessive amount of black RTV on them. I guess I can start with the breather hose. I don't see any gaskets listed for them, mostly just see listings for the whole breather tube.