Updated Oil Change Intervals

BleachedBora

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Updated Oil Change Intervals

Welcome to stirring a hornets nest....
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For years we have recommended a 10,000 mile oil change interval. Almost 20 years ago I had multiple conversations with engineers at Fuchs, Rowe and Liquimoly. I even had access to internal training programs at Liquimoly, and everything pointed to the same conclusion: Stick to a 10,000 mile change interval.
BACKGROUND: We like things to make sense and not just take someone’s word for it. So why was the 10,000 mile interval given? And why is it in your owners manual? The historical reason why was because oils have detergents and dispersants to clean your engine, as well as additives to prevent wear. Detergent additives keep metal components clean and free of any deposits. They also help to neutralize any acids that might form in the oil. Dispersants are particularly important in diesel oils as they are used to keep engine soot particles suspended and prevent the formation of larger soot deposits, known as agglomeration. Together they suspend contaminants and neutralize acids.
Generally the detergents work the first 1000 miles or so of an oil change, over which time you are having increased wear. Then the additives take over and they were supposed to last to 10,000+ miles. Eventually, the additives exceed their limit of functionality which requires users to change the oil.
Fast forward 20 years. We have seen shops report back that they are seeing increased oil sludge and engine failures from high oil change (10,000) intervals. The author of this piece had his Mercedes Bluetec engine seize due to oil sludge (it was running Mobil 1 at the time and had a 10,000 change interval, exactly as the manual specifies). Special thanks to Chris Sunday who has been reporting issues for years – so we delved deeper into the problem. We didn’t want to report “change this often now” without it making sense.
In 2024 I attended a training where I was able to speak with representatives from Liquimoly and Pentosin. I explained the problem, the history, as well as the fact that I realize they are in the business to sell oil, but I am in the business to do what is best for my customers. They both reported the same thing: thanks to EPA standards, zinc levels being reduced or removed from oils, and the like has resulted in over 3 times the additives being added to oils now compared to in the past in order to achieve the best protection possible. Internal testing has shown that the additive package begins to break down at 5,000 miles and is seriously compromised the longer you go. This is even more pronounced with thinner oils (VW 508 spec 0W20 for example) and oils that are subject to higher temperatures (e.g. DPF’s).
So why does your manual say 10,000 mile changes? According to sources we have within the industry, OEM’s are being pressured by the EPA to reduce environmental footprints by extending the change interval longer and longer. OEM’s are also internally being pressured by corporate bean counters to show a lower cost of ownership to consumers. By extending oil change intervals they show, on paper, that the cost of maintenance is lower.
Consequently, based on experience and science, we are now recommending a 5,000 mile oil change interval, especially on all 2007+ vehicles. Older vehicles driven with mostly highway miles may be able to go further, but remember that the additives found in the oil of 2004 is not necessarily the same as 2024.
Also remember – just because your truck has a capacity of 13 quarts or 13 gallons and thus can go further before the additive package breaks down doesn’t mean your VW with a 4.5 liter capacity can go that far. These recommendations are for Euro passenger vehicles, VW/Audi, BMW and Mercedes.
 

x1800MODMY360x

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I just did a Oil Analysis and they claim at only 8,100 miles on the oil that I could of gone longer like another 2-4k miles.

I went with a 7.5k miles on mine for future OCI as opposed to 10k is what I'm comfortable of doing myself and try to have the best longevity as possible.
 

BleachedBora

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7500 is certainly within the realm of acceptability, especially with oil analysis to back it up. Also if you're doing more highway miles than most that plays a factor as well. However, your DPF will always hurt that interval, unless of course you've done something about that as well.
-BB
 

calimustang

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What about the deleted cars? (common rails of course)
 

BleachedBora

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What about the deleted cars? (common rails of course)
Again depends on habits. 5k is a good one size fits most. If deleted I wouldn’t be running 507, I’d use something such as Pentosin HP2 5w40. Thicker oils last longer as they have a more robust additive package.
My inbox has been exploding, but note that the average speed driven in the US in 2023 was about 25 MPH (18.6 MPH globally). Take what we say and adapt to your needs. 10k is too much for just about everyone.
If you’re running a thicker oil, don’t have a dpf and are doing longer trips at higher speeds then 7500 is probably ok.

I thought I was fine at 10k. Sludge took out my engine. I’m not alone - what’s your engine worth to you?
-BB
 

CanadianALH

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Again depends on habits. 5k is a good one size fits most. If deleted I wouldn’t be running 507, I’d use something such as Pentosin HP2 5w40. Thicker oils last longer as they have a more robust additive package.
My inbox has been exploding, but note that the average speed driven in the US in 2023 was about 25 MPH (18.6 MPH globally). Take what we say and adapt to your needs. 10k is too much for just about everyone.
If you’re running a thicker oil, don’t have a dpf and are doing longer trips at higher speeds then 7500 is probably ok.

I thought I was fine at 10k. Sludge took out my engine. I’m not alone - what’s your engine worth to you?
-BB
What would you recommend for an older high mileage ALH (like most are now). I was running 5k mile changes but I was encouraged to move it up to 10. I was going to do my next one at 10k Km. This is an interesting read for sure. I run liquimoly just for reference.
 

BleachedBora

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10k km /6,000 miles is a good number. Oils don’t have as good of an additive package as they used to. As mentioned earlier depending on driving habits you could do 10k miles in an ALH.

My commute is 1.9 miles. 5k is about it. If you’re a fleet guy on the highway all the time then extend. If you have oil analysis backing things up extend. But for a vast majority 5k is a good safe number to run.
 

CanadianALH

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10k km /6,000 miles is a good number. Oils don’t have as good of an additive package as they used to. As mentioned earlier depending on driving habits you could do 10k miles in an ALH.

My commute is 1.9 miles. 5k is about it. If you’re a fleet guy on the highway all the time then extend. If you have oil analysis backing things up extend. But for a vast majority 5k is a good safe number to run.
Thank you for the info! I’m like 70/30 highway.
 

turbobrick240

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I did 17 10k mile oil changes (a few even higher mileage) on my CJAA Golf and there was zero sludging or varnishing inside the engine at 180k miles. 2/3 with mobil 1 esp and 1/3 with Rotella and Delo 5w40. And one quart of Amsoil top up oil for good measure. If you do a lot of short trips in cold weather maybe a 5k mile interval is a good idea.
 

BamaB4S

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Over 250,000 miles with 10k mile Pentosin HP II 5W40 oil change intervals. I'm a simple man with no reason to change.
 

CanadianALH

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We've got over 2m km on our ALH fleet at 16k OCIs, haven't had any issues. This thread has me thinking about a UOA or two next time they are due.
Definitely also considering one. Just for interest sake.
 

xcmer

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Always done 10k on my ALH since I got it, great timing finding this thread as I've gotten a new job just about a mile drive from home. Thanks for doing the legwork!
 

Rob Mayercik

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I'm about a week and a half from hitting 500K miles on my 02, always stuck to the 10K intervals and it's still running beautifully. Of course, my daily commute is 52 miles one way and is about 90% highway cruising, so they're "fairly easy" miles (my father used to say a lot of highway miles are "easier" on the engine as it's getting the oil hot enough to cook off a lot of the contaminants it picks up).

That said, Aaron's article is interesting reading. Maybe I'll look into having a UOA done, just for fun, sometime soon.
 

kjclow

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Since we have both retired, we're only putting about 4000 miles on the JSW a year. Any idea if the additive package will also break down from age or is it strictly mileage?
 

Nuje

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Note that @BleachedBora is not saying anything about the older VE and PD engines OCI; their recommendation is to go to the lower 5K miles on the the newer CR engines.

Given that my CRUA is strictly a highway mobile (easily 95% highway/freeway driving), I'm not sure I'll go all the way down to 5K miles. I'll probably split the difference somewhere around 10-12K km (6-7.5K miles).
 

Jr mason

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Note that @BleachedBora is not saying anything about the older VE and PD engines OCI; their recommendation is to go to the lower 5K miles on the the newer CR engines.

Post #7 says 6k to 10k miles. The ALH engines are easy on oil. There are countless high mileage examples that have lived quite well off of 10k mile intervals. 6k seems a bit conservative unless they are running short or extreme duty cycles, but that's just one country bumpkins opinion.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
While I would tend to agree that anything with a DPF is going to be harder on motor oil, I see far too many [stock] DPF-equipped TDIs in and out of my shop every day that do just fine with 10k mile intervals. I wouldn't worry about it.

My 2010 has nearly 320k miles, and its engine sounds and runs like new. I can parade 20+ more customers' cars through with similar, one has over 500k miles. I feel the engines themselves, the actual engine proper, is pretty good. Just everything around them that can become an issue.

I'm also a strong advocate of CHECKING and if necessary ADDING oil to the engine between service intervals if necessary, something that the general public seems to struggle with. I check the oil of every car that I pull in here, regardless of why it is here, and the amount of dry dipsticks I come across is surprising....not limited to, and not usually, Volkswagen products.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
This is a 270k mile CJAA I am doing the thermostat/coolant pipe on, the back side of the oil filter housing looks like this engine left the factory last week, it's so clean inside:

1715607219612.jpeg

That's right as it was removed from the engine. You'd think if 10k mile service intervals were "sludging" something it'd show here, wouldn't it? Inside of block also is spotless clean, just the normal film of the normal jet-black oil.

I've yet to ever see ANY Volkswagen diesel, of any generation, sludge up inside except for those running some sort of alternative "fuel". They're always spotless clean, you can wipe away the oil with a rag and the inner surfaces (both aluminum or cast iron/steel) look like new. Not at all like a lot of the gassers I've seen.
 

MrCypherr

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Is this a stock CJAA? I'm curious to see what mine would look like if I ever had to pull it off. Only got 228k miles on it but oil change every 6200miles (10,000km). Mostly because the oil/filter is cheap enough for me to do it. Same with the fuel filter. Oil filter seems clean as heck everytime I replace it.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Stock, yes... early CJAA (still has the Purflux filter housing like the 2009 CBEAs did, before they switched to the Mann+Hummel supplied one).

If these are deleted, you can easily double the 10k interval, as I've made mention of before:



Same car, same driver, same route, same oil (Pentosin SP3), same filter (Mann HU719/7x)... left is after 10k miles on the stock setup, right is 10k miles post-delete. These engines are much easier on the oil when there is no EGR and no DPF. Maybe even more so than the older ones. My EGR-less ALH keeps its oil fairly clean, and I go 20k miles between services.... but its Mann filter doesn't look that clean.
 
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adjat84th

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For me, it's a "let the data do the decision making" when it comes to oil change intervals. If the UOAs come back bad, I'll shorten them up. If they're good, I'll stick to 10k.

I have a UOA from my deleted CRUA running 95% highway with Mobil1 TDT that was the lowest wear metal test that Blackstone had seen for the EA288 at the time. I could easily have done 20k mile intervals, but work changed and the Mk7 became my fun car. The CUAA is much more harsh on the oil with the power output, smoke, lower compression ratio, big injectors etc etc etc...so it is likely to be in the 3-5k mile range.
 

Rob Mayercik

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Note that @BleachedBora is not saying anything about the older VE and PD engines OCI; their recommendation is to go to the lower 5K miles on the the newer CR engines.
I agree that he's mainly emphasized this for the newer stuff, but the way he worded his conclusion to me indicated that he would still recommend the shorter interval even for the older stuff, because his research suggests the additives today just aren't as good as back then.

Consequently, based on experience and science, we are now recommending a 5,000 mile oil change interval, especially on all 2007+ vehicles. Older vehicles driven with mostly highway miles may be able to go further, but remember that the additives found in the oil of 2004 is not necessarily the same as 2024.
That said, 10K intervals have gotten my ALH to 500K...
 

P2B

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I agree that he's mainly emphasized this for the newer stuff, but the way he worded his conclusion to me indicated that he would still recommend the shorter interval even for the older stuff, because his research suggests the additives today just aren't as good as back then.



That said, 10K intervals have gotten my ALH to 500K...
Not seeing a whole lot of experience or science to suggest 505.00 oils are not what they used to be.
 

turbobrick240

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Generally speaking, today's motor oils are better than those from 20 years ago, which in turn were better than those from 20 years prior. It's also better to leave the additive pack blending to the oil blenders. They know what they're doing. Dosing up your oil with some ZDDP additive is almost always going to do more harm than good.

 

dieseldonato

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Generally speaking, today's motor oils are better than those from 20 years ago, which in turn were better than those from 20 years prior. It's also better to leave the additive pack blending to the oil blenders. They know what they're doing. Dosing up your oil with some ZDDP additive is almost always going to do more harm than good.

Good video, he's absolutely right.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Not Volkswagen (or diesel, for that matter), related, but regarding newer engines and newer engine oils... we see FAR more problems with premature engine wear today than we did 25+ years ago. I'm speaking to the Honda and Toyotas with their rattling and sometimes exploding variable camshaft sprockets, the ChryCo Hemi V8s with wiped out cam/lifters, the ChryCo Pentastar V6s with [insert anything you can thing of breaking here, they break it], the GM V6s with their own set of collapsed lifter problems, etc. Pretty much all of these engines' predecessors did not have these problems.
 

Nuje

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So, would you attribute that to the engine oil? Or more to the sub-standard, cheapening out on the metals used in the engine? Or something else....?
 

oilhammer

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outside St Louis, MO
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There are just too many to list....
Ever-thinning oil specs (Toyota is down to a 0w8 on some models, 0w16 on many others), and lots of tiny little metal bits in the engines, high operating temps, this stupid start-stop nonsense jack-hammering the timing chain tensioners 20+ times a day instead of twice, and just generally a bunch of "stuff" that we didn't have years ago.

The base engine in a Silverado for a long time was the 4.3L V6, which was itself a 5.7L V8 with two cylinders missing.... the old "SBC" dating back to 1955. They had plenty of time to make them reasonably reliable, and they stayed pretty simple. Those things could take a beating. Just like the big 4.9L I6 in Fords. Simple, old, sturdy, low tech, cheap. You could put anything that called itself oil in the crankcase, run them two or even three quarts low, and they'd still show up for work the next day. We had fleets that had trucks that were treated like the drunk girl on prom night. Run hard, put away wet, every possible level of mistreatment you could think of.

Now, GM's base engine is a turbocharged multivalve twin cam 2.7L 4 cylinder. Direct injected, cylinder deactivation (yes, on a 4 cylinder!), dual variable cams, all kinds of fancy stuff. And they run good... GOBS of power, reasonably good fuel economy, some of which of course comes courtesy of an 11ty speed automatic transmission, which is itself a rolling liability but that's a story for another day. But the sheer number of pieces in these engines is staggering.

Ford's base engine is not much different in terms of complexity... they're using a twin cam direct injected 3.3L V6. No turbo, but twice the cylinder banks. Again, they run great, but that itty bitty chain simply cannot hold up if they're run low on oil... and they too have a 10k mile service interval.
 
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