Unknown issues with my 2010 Jetta CJAA, not diagnosed yet.

Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Last week I had car trouble on the way home from work. I was going to wait until I had a diagnosis before I come here and post to ask for advice/opinions but at this point enough has happened that I wanted to write it all down before I forget any of it. No diagnosis has been found yet, this is just what's happened so far.

9/24/14 WED - I work at night. I believe it rained over night. Driving home in the morning, I came off the highway at a major intersection, merged and started slowing for a red light ahead. As I approached, within the last 10-15 feet I noticed the engine was revving higher than it ought to, like it wasn't coming out of gear. As I came to a stop I felt a bit of a "thunk" as the transmission came out of gear. It wasn't so bad that I was really freaked out, but enough for me to think, "That's not right, I'll have to talk to my mechanic about that."

I was supposed to be getting with him this weekend or next so I wasn't too concerned at that moment. Sitting at the red light I happened to notice that my tach was at 0. I turned off my radio, turned off the key, and tried to start the car. It would crank but not turn over. Sometimes when I cranked it was displaying "ESP Error". I called AAA and my mechanic.

My mechanic's a good friend but not certified on diesels. He couldn't find a TSB relating to that error and Google results weren't conclusive so he suggested I take it to the mom & pop VW place near my house (D&A Auto). I wasn't thrilled about this, as neither D&A nor the two dealerships in my area are on the preferred mechanics list this website's put together, but I knew there was a chance something was going to happen with this car and have decided to hold onto it and see what happens, so here I am. Towed it to D&A.

9/25/14 THURS - D&A calls me, he thinks it might be the HPFP and suggests I tow it to a dealer. He says if it is that, it's a recall item and VW will pay for it, he doesn't charge me for the diagnostic he's done.

In talking with him he says he charged the battery and though it cranked he couldn't get it to turn over. He pulled codes for the glow plug (which I already knew about) and for the first O2 sensor (which was new). Said he knows someone at Kuhn VW in Tampa, that person walked him through a few things, including looking at the top of the fuel filter. When I asked about metal flakes he said there were none on the top. When I suggested it might not be the HPFP his response was, "Well, the flakes can settle to the bottom" (of the fuel filter).

He said the mechanic at Kuhn had handled about 15 of the HPFP replacements and was familiar with the work, but Kuhn is 16 miles across the bay in Tampa (much harder to get to in traffic) and I wasn't sure about the HPFP at this point so I had AAA tow it to Bert Smith, which is 3 miles away.

9/26/14 FRI - Haven't heard from Bert Smith all day, call them at 3:30. They return my call, haven't gotten to it, will look at it Monday.

9/29/14 MON - Worked at night, came home and slept until 3:30. Had 11 missed calls, no messages. Left voice mail for Bert smith, got dressed and headed over there. Got there before they called me back. Service person goes to get the mechanic that looked at my car, says he has some questions for me. Mechanic wants to know the story, I tell him the same thing I told the service guy.

They haven't diagnosed anything yet, but he doesn't think it's the HPFP, pressure is good and no flakes. He says the serpentine belt is off and all chewed up. I didn't notice that when I popped the hood at the scene and D&A didn't mention anything about it. When I mention D&A the mechanic frowned and said, "Yeah, we know the guy." When I mentioned that he knew someone at Kuhn and suggested I could take it there they were clearly not happy with that either.

I asked about the ECM wiring under the windshield wiper cowl, which I'd read as possibly related to the ESP error, he said the ESP error is commonly displayed when starting the car (I had never noticed it before), and that if that wiring was damaged the ECM wouldn't communicate and the car would not be responding at all. I asked if the serpentine belt could be wrapped around anything that needed to turn to keep it from turning over, they didn't think that would be a problem. At this point they still don't know what it is, said they would keep digging.

On the way home I call D&A and ask about the serpentine belt to see if that would jog any memories, he says he didn't see notice wrong with it, but that he'd not dug any deeper into it after his friend at Kuhn suggested the HPFP. Can't say I'm thrilled that he didn't notice it, but I didn't either so I'm hesitant to make any judgement calls. Still, can't help but wonder if he and I both missed it or if something odd is going on there.
 
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South Coast Guy

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2010
Location
Mattapoisett, MA
TDI
2009 Jetta TDI wagon
Yes, someting odd is going on - with your car. First thing the dealer or independent mechanic should pull codes that will lead to a possible diagnosis. Cars are complex, give them the time to make a diagnosis. If the cost to repair is big ( >$1.000), have it towed to another shop for a diagnosis and estimate.
 

Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Oh, it's big alright: $5,100. Just got off the phone with the service guy. He says the serpentine got wound up around something, the tension caused it to jump out of timing. They put it back into timing but it still won't start and they think there's a bent valve. They want to replace the whole head.

I asked, "You want to replace the whole head for a bent valve?" and he replied, "Yes, that's what's recommended." I'm about to go down there and have a look. I'm willing to bet they haven't taken the head off to confirm the issue is a bent valve.

I'm thinking I should ask them to take the head off and confirm that's the issue, and then my question is - should that necessitate replacing the entire head?
 

gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
Oh, it's big alright: $5,100. Just got off the phone with the service guy. He says the serpentine got wound up around something, the tension caused it to jump out of timing. They put it back into timing but it still won't start and they think there's a bent valve. They want to replace the whole head.
I asked, "You want to replace the whole head for a bent valve?" and he replied, "Yes, that's what's recommended." I'm about to go down there and have a look. I'm willing to bet they haven't taken the head off to confirm the issue is a bent valve.

I'm thinking I should ask them to take the head off and confirm that's the issue, and then my question is - should that necessitate replacing the entire head?
Definitely ask for proof the timing belt was "put back" on correctly and do a compression check (before removing head).... Dealers will assume things or not really do what they say. YOU ARE RIGHT don't assume anything or that they timing was ever off. However if they really did reinstall a new belt correctly, tried to start it with no success, ask them for a compression test. I have seen dealers put timing belts on wrong. I have seen dealers say we tried to do XYZ and never did what they said. Trust but verify.

One type of compression test is spinning engine with all glow plugs out (and fuel disconnected), with a compression gauge on one of the cylinders. You repeat for all four jugs... The manual says 470PSI is max. Keep in mind you need a diesel tester and special adapter that goes into the glow plug hole. The min is about 290-300 PSI with a Max allowable differential between cylinders. The other compression test method is a leak down test. You put 100 PSI of compressed air into the cylinder (through glow plug port) and move the engine to TDC for that cylinder. If it is sealed (no bent valves) it reads the differential from pressure in and the cylinder, or leak-down. It should read fairly high, almost 100PSI... some leakage is OK. This is a good way to test, because you can hear the air leaking out the exhaust or intake port... if the rings are bad it goes into crankcase. I would not be surprised if they had not compression gauge available.

The Timing Belt Cover over the cogged timing belt, one that drives the cam, HPFP, water pump, is a piece of idiotic design the defies explanation. I know why they did it, but it is still bad.

The cover has ZERO protection to the lower timing belt crankshaft pulley. The pulley is very small, only about 2.5" in diameter. The outer pulley for the serpentine belt, about 5" Dia., bolts directly to the timing belt pulley. The cover basically is wide open because the pulleys are bolted onto each other. Anything that gets between the outer serpentine pulley and the cover, gets fed right into the timing belt pulley......

Ever take a fork and stick it in spaghetti and spin it, wrap it up the spaghetti. The serpentine belt does not break it splits long ways in strips, think spaghetti. Then it gets between serpentine belt pulley and timing belt cover. It goes right into the cogged timing belt pulley (think fork) and wraps up between the pulley and the timing belt.
How many miles on car? Warranty? You may consider going to VW out of warranty and raising a fit.


The cost of $5000 for a head removal/fix/replace is not too bad. Consider a used engine.... The TDI engines are not too much money on used market, and a swap may be cheaper. You might find one with low miles...
 
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Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Sorry, been extremely busy the last two weeks. When it rains it pours. Within a week of the engine problems I also had a hard drive on my NAS crash that may also be a sign of the NAS dying, and I had a toilet leak to fix.

The dealership gave me three options:

$1320 labor + $4,000 OEM head with 12/12 parts and labor warranty
$1320 labor + $3,500 aftermarket head with 12/12 parts only warranty
$1320 labor + $1,700 rebuilt head with no warranty whatsoever other than if the head doesn't work the place that rebuilds them will redo the work.

I called my mechanic friend and he told me to give a call over to Wayne Purdy European Motors in Clearwater, said his wife grew up with some of their family. I called them up and told them the situation, they said they charge the same labor rates but offer a 12/12 warranty on their rebuilt heads so I had it towed over there.

The took the head off and sent it out to be rebuilt. They told me when they took it apart it had 8 broken rockers and 8 broken lifters. It laid flat on the table but they said there might still be tiny damage to the valves. I just got a call from them this morning and the place that does the rebuilding said all 16 valves had hit the cylinders. Not sure if it happened at the moment the serpentine belt broke or in the process of trying to turn the engine over (either me, the first shop, or the dealership).

Because of all the extra parts that will need to be replaced he said I might as well buy a remanufactured head. The estimate is $4,750 + tax. With the $300 I paid for the tow and dealer diagnostic I'm basically back at what the dealership was quoting but I'll be getting a rebuilt one instead of OEM. Joy of joys. Every penny I've saved all year ... gone.
 
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gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
The dealership gave me three options:

$1320 labor + $4,000 OEM head with 12/12 parts and labor warranty
$1320 labor + $3,500 aftermarket head with 12/12 parts only warranty
$1320 labor + $1,700 rebuilt head with no warranty whatsoever other than if the head doesn't work the place that rebuilds them will redo the work.

I called my mechanic friend and he told me to give a call over to Wayne Purdy European Motors in Clearwater, said his wife grew up with some of their family. I called them up and told them the situation, they said they charge the same labor rates but offer a 12/12 warranty on their rebuilt heads so I had it towed over there.

The took the head off and sent it out to be rebuilt. They told me when they took it apart it had 8 broken rockers and 8 broken lifters. It laid flat on the table but they said there might still be tiny damage to the valves. I just got a call from them this morning and the place that does the rebuilding said all 16 valves had hit the cylinders. Not sure if it happened at the moment the serpentine belt broke or in the process of trying to turn the engine over (either me, the first shop, or the dealership).

Because of all the extra parts that will need to be replaced he said I might as well buy a remanufactured head. The estimate is $4,750 + tax. With the $300 I paid for the tow and dealer diagnostic I'm basically back at what the dealership was quoting but I'll be getting a rebuilt one instead of OEM. Joy of joys. Every penny I've saved all year ... gone.
I can not discuss my scenario in detail for legal reasons. However I can tell you cars TDI's are wrecked all the time and the engines are sold off, some with very low miles. The cost from $2000 to $4500 and can truck freight shipped on a pallet fairly inexpensively. Check into it. If you get an engine with all the stuff... you can sell that stuff off the old engine, injectors, HPFP, turbo, throttle control valve, sensors, wiring harness, recover some cost.... If your bottom end is good, it might be worth something.... hard to sell just a bottom end I guess. Some engine shop will buy it.

I bought an 2013 TDI (corrected) engine with 1000 miles off eBay for $4000, about $4200 to the door and come with everything but the flywheel, starter, alternator and exhaust... DPF.... (I asked for and almost got the DPF, but they said it was pollution control and can not sell it by federal law.) The donor car was only a few months old when it had a passenger compartment fire. (Knuckle head wiring a big hot wire with no fuse to stereo amp in trunk maybe.)

The place I bought it from was amazing, you could eat off the floor of their sales and warehouse areas. They plugged all the hoses with caps and did not HACK off anything.... The cost to swap was about $2200.... That included oil/filter change.... So it cost me about $6400 but I got a low mile engine and have or will recover some of the cost.

The only issue is I have a SportWagen, JSW.... which is based on the Golf... The engine came out of a Jetta 2013 Sedan which is now a different body. The wiring harness was a different length. They just used my old wiring harness and put it on the new(er) engine. No big deal.

Don't pay full price for the engine, offer something less, free shipping....

This way you get a low mileage engine that was factory built, does not have used, damaged, rebuild, field rebuild..... it is something to think about. I have about 6K on the new engine, over 8 months... love it. The new engine had more power.... my old engine has 64,000....

Send me a private message, I might be able to help you with a good head or engine...
 
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nord

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Mar 5, 2010
Location
Southern Tier NY
TDI
All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
Ummm... Unless I missed something your engine had four cylinders, each with two valves. Even using new math the total comes out to exactly eight valves.

Rebuilding the engine? While I believe it may well be possible, I wonder if economical for you as you have to farm out the work. Perhaps better to consider an engine that hasn't suffered major trauma.
 

thecause17

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May 5, 2014
Location
Dover, DE
TDI
2010 Salsa Red TDi DSG
Ummm... Unless I missed something your engine had four cylinders, each with two valves. Even using new math the total comes out to exactly eight valves.

Rebuilding the engine? While I believe it may well be possible, I wonder if economical for you as you have to farm out the work. Perhaps better to consider an engine that hasn't suffered major trauma.
I'm pretty sure a CJAA is a 16V engine.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Volkswagen_Group_diesel_engines
 

Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Shop rates are $110/hr at this place, and with the extra labor of replacing the engine it probably would've run $6k to $7k, which I cannot afford right now.

My friend's shop rates are $50/hr or $60/hr but he doesn't want to touch a diesel. The vehicle I had before this was a truck and I replaced the engine once myself but I had access to the tools and space to do it in, neither of which I have now. Also I lived within walking distance to work at that time, and I don't now. It took me a month to do in my free time but I didn't need a rental so I didn't care. I should've bought a house with a garage but decided to buy the house I grew up in from my family. I intend to put a garage on it but that's still 3-5 years away.

I knew shop rates on foreign cars would be higher but didn't think they'd be literally double. I may just have to sell this car after it's fixed. As others have pointed out, any savings from it being a diesel are negated by other costs, and then some. I was planning on getting the next level certification in my career so I could get a raise but I wanted to put that money into retirement savings, not need it just to maintain my car.
 

williamgd2

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Sep 5, 2011
Location
West Hartford Ct
TDI
2010 Jetta
For a trained mechanic a engine swap is pretty quick. In my younger years I did about 6. If it was my car I would do it myself but now for me it would take a lot longer. My point is labor wise it is probably cheaper to do the engine swap.
 

gmcjetpilot

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Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
For a trained mechanic a engine swap is pretty quick. In my younger years I did about 6. If it was my car I would do it myself but now for me it would take a lot longer. My point is labor wise it is probably cheaper to do the engine swap.
I fixed my post, I put down 2003 engine and meant 2013.... I am very happy with my engine swap... You do want a shop that knows VW... My independant VW shop knew what to do...... with that said, I think it is so very sad a serpentine belt failure can foul the timing belt, due to the piss poor design of the timing belt cover....
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Some Fords, Volvos, GMs, and presumably others can have this issue, too. I've seen it. That's why you have to be sure to address anything in the accessory belt system that could cause a problem.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
So as a lesson learned, and follow-up,

what preventative maintenance would you recommend related to the accessory drive?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Well, a simple check of the condition of the belt as well as a quick functional check of the alternator clutch pulley and tensioner (all while engine is off), then a start up and check for any strange noises or movements. And, as always, making sure all the belt covers, splash shields, liners, etc. are intact and tight. If you do these at every service, the chances of sudden accessory belt failure is very rare. I also like to check the nut on the compressor clutch (where applicable) and the sheer pins on the clutchless type compressors for any looseness. Look for rusty dust around them, as a sign something isn't tight.

Really just boils down to common sense. Neglect causes a lot more damage (and a LOT more money lost) than just taking care of things in the first place does.

And if you are unsure about how to keep your car checked over, then take it to someone that is and pay them for their knowledge instead.
 

gmcjetpilot

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Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
So as a lesson learned, and follow-up,
what preventative maintenance would you recommend related to the accessory drive?
Considering how CRAP the timing belt cover is, that allows (actually guides and feeds) the serpentine belt (a belt that is known to shred) into timing belt crank pulley, to foul it badly, I'd say every oil change give it a very good detailed visual. Replace it every 4th oil change 40K... If you spill oil or fuel on it, replace it..... TO EACH HIS OWN....
 
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tdiatlast

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Jan 21, 2009
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
2009 Sportwagen (boughtback); 2014 Passat TDI SEL (boughtback)
Considering how CRAP the timing belt cover is, that allows (actually guides and feeds) the serpentine belt (a belt that is known to shred) into timing belt crank pulley, to foul it badly, I'd say every oil change give it a very good detailed visual. Replace it every 4th oil change 40K... If you spill oil or fuel on it, replace it..... TO EACH HIS OWN....
I'd like to read some stats on this. Is this an accurate assessment?

What say thee, oh gurus????
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
I'd be more worried about Texas being taken back by Mexico than I would my TDIs' (or any of my VAG gassers') accessory belt drives being compromised.
 

Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
More fun. Last week the head came in and they put it together. When they started it up they were getting error codes (Turbo boost control pressure position sensor and Intake manifold flap sensor). They checked the Intake manifold flap and at the moment I can't remember whether they found it to be working or not but on their own they picked up an intake manifold, sat it on the car, hooked it up, and they said the codes went away. $692. I'm now at $5,633 and at the range I would've opted for swapping the engine.

Two days later (Friday) they said my car is ready. They said they'd taken it on a number of test drives and the Turbo boost control pressure position sensor reading hasn't returned. I pay what I owe and head home. I get a few blocks away from home, the check engine light comes on and the turbo stops working. I limp it home and call the shop, they have me bring it back.

When I get out to the car and turn it over the check engine light has gone away and the turbo is working again. I get about 10 blocks away and realize I left something at home, so I circle back. Again a few blocks from home the same thing happens. Again when I go inside I turn it off, and when I turn it back on it's fine. This time it makes it all the way to the shop without a problem. I wait in the shop while they look it over. They tell me the sensor is reading correctly, the turbo seems to need adjustment but that it shouldn't - normally you set it and that's that. He said it's hard to get to so they'll give me their shop truck as a loaner and work on it Monday.

I called them Tuesday morning and they said they didn't have time to get to it but would call me. I'm really praying they don't try to tell me it's the turbo because I've heard it's at the back of the engine and expensive to replace. I swear, if they try to suggest that I might just tow it to a friend's house, part the damn thing out, and buy something else.
 
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gmcjetpilot

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Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
I'd like to read some stats on this. Is this an accurate assessment? What say thee, oh gurus????
I'd be more worried about Texas being taken back by Mexico than I would my TDIs' (or any of my VAG gassers') accessory belt drives being compromised.
Your contrarian attitudes does not make you smart, just contrarian. If you want to get into some "Oh show me the data ..." No, you show me your proof. I have PERSONAL knowledge and there are four other cases, I know of....

I can tell you the failure mode of this belt with longitudinal reinforcement fibers is to shred... It is a FLAT belt with groves running in line with the belt rotation. When it peals it "shreds", does not break.... it tends to go between pulley and cover, down and wrap-up around the crank pulley. The open "cover" is a joke, does NOTHING to protect the timing belt pulley... NOTHING!!! In fact it is wide open and anything that gets between the serpentine belt pulley and the cover gets fed into the crank pulley... I have pictures and **** to prove it. Common? No, but is the HPFP common? It is an issue and poor design just the same which has the potential to ruin your engine. A wise person would pay some attention to the serpentine belt.

There are three others on this forum, besides me, this OP and another one. On the web if you google serpentine belt and VW you will see... It is like the HP pump.... yes statistically it is not common, but IT CAN HAPPEN and then it is a BIG DOT deal... ALSO the VW TDI fuel system has NHTSA reports for fuel leaks… The serpentine belt tends to be damaged and fail with diesel fuel contamination… So if you spill any fuel or oil on the belt... replace it...

Google: "serpentine belt vw failure" here is an article..
http://humblemechanic.com/2012/12/03/does-my-car-really-need-this-service-serpentine-belt/




I don't care if you belive or are convinced this is a potential issue... so no need to argue... Every one else if the serpentine belt fails it is bad news, so recommend you watch it..
 
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oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Your contrarian attitudes does not make you smart, just contrarian. If you want to get into some "Oh show me the data ..." No, you show me your proof. I have PERSONAL knowledge and there are four other cases, I know of....

]..


OK, I can give you PERSONAL knowledge of seven more.... I still don't consider this a problem, since they ALL had some issue that caused it. Missing guards, bad idler pulley, seized alternator clutch pulley, etc.

I am not being contrarian, I am being REALISTIC.

I could overwhelm you with data of things that break and things that don't. :rolleyes: Poly belts DO NOT just suddenly, all on their own, fail. They just don't. Period. I've probably taken more off that look like they should have been replaced tens of thousands of miles ago than most people see in a lifetime.
 

meerschm

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 18, 2009
Location
Fairfax county VA
TDI
2009 Jetta wagon DSG 08/08 205k buyback 1/8/18; replaced with 2017 Golf Wagon 4mo 1.8l CXBB
Perhaps it would be a good idea to lift the hood and take a look and listen once in a while. (being careful, of course)
 

tdiatlast

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Jan 21, 2009
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
2009 Sportwagen (boughtback); 2014 Passat TDI SEL (boughtback)
Your post is the first one I've read that makes a claim that this is a problem worthy of major concern. My asking for additional evidence and/or clarification to support YOUR perspective is NOT being contrarian.

Challenging me, or anyone else, because of their request for same, IS being contrarian.

Sorry for your troubles, but I choose to believe those that are in the business of repairing these cars. That, for me, is reality.
 
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Fla_Panther

Active member
Joined
Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
So ... it hopefully comes to an end here. Just spoke to the shop. After troubleshooting all the work they did on the head to make sure that was done correctly they started on the turbo. They did take it off, and found that a threaded stop screw that acts as a limiter for the vanes (that's not visible when the turbo is on the car) had fallen out. They couldn't say when or where that happened, it may have been out when they got the car.

Apparently VW recommends replacing the entire turbo if this happens but they fabricated a screw and it appears to be working. The turbo actuator was also replaced as well as some sort of exhaust canister that was cracked. The mechanic wasn't positive that was related but said there was a chance it was affecting the pressure the sensors were reading.

They didn't charge me for the ~10 hours of labor, parts came to $661.65. Being that they did lend me the shop truck for a week as a loaner that saved me about $125 worth of car rental fees.

Grand Total comes to $7,085.59. With the related intake and turbo troubles I really should have just put in a newer engine.
 

tdiatlast

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Joined
Jan 21, 2009
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
TDI
2009 Sportwagen (boughtback); 2014 Passat TDI SEL (boughtback)
Ouch. Hopefully your immediate troubles are over, but that's a helluva bill for a 2010. I must have missed this, but how many miles on the car?

Good luck!
 
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Fla_Panther

Active member
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Dec 22, 2013
Location
Tampa
TDI
2010 Jetta TDI
Clarification ... included in that number is the $200 I paid to the dealership for their diagnostic, $140 for the tow from the the dealership to the 3rd shop (I used my last AAA tow getting from the 1st shop to the dealership), and $750 in auto rental fees I paid (5 weeks). That's not part of the auto repair fees but that's why I called it the Grand Total cost.
 

gmcjetpilot

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Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
OK, I can give you PERSONAL knowledge of seven more.... I still don't consider this a problem, since they ALL had some issue that caused it. Missing guards, bad idler pulley, seized alternator clutch pulley, etc. I am not being contrarian, I am being REALISTIC.
You have no point except to argue... It is a BIG deal to the owner, if a serpentine belt fails without warning, regardless of the reason, destroying your engine... IT IS A PROBLEM if it happens to you, and it is not super rare... I think we will see more as the fleet ages. I think you mean it is not a wide spread problem...
You are making a STRAWMAN ARGUMENT... No one is arguing it is wide spread problem...
Your red herring and non sequitur aside, it is a BAD design, the timing belt is not protected... A FACT.
Serpentine belts do fail (regardless of why) in a way it can (and does) foul the timing belt... ALSO A FACT.
It is a risk...and the consequence is severe internal engine damage, AGAIN A FACT.

I could overwhelm you with data of things that break and things that don't.
Ha ha that is a lame appeal to authority and I doubt you could overwhelmed me... I deal with Airplanes, BIG ones far more complext than a VW, and I know all kinds a "stuff", with a wall full of degrees and experience to prove it. I match your appeal to authority and raise you....


Poly belts DO NOT just suddenly, all on their own, fail. They just don't. Period. I've probably taken more off that look like they should have been replaced tens of thousands of miles ago than most people see in a lifetime.
That is brilliant, but they do fail WELL below the recommend service interval, and things do fail for a variety of reasons. It is called failure analysis... and sometimes belts fail without external reason (like the HPFP do) ... e.g., belt manufacture defect or belt undersized and not up to the task it is asked to perform, by (poor) design.... That one not so robust belt is doing AC and Alternator, gets very hot...
 
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