Under Hood Relay Cover, 3D Printed

KrashDH

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2002 Golf
So, I'm embarking on some upgrade mods for the car. One of them involved a BEW lift pump that I worked on over the last weekend. The instructions that are out there for it have you placing the relay in the open slot in the relay holder, as there is one blank spot shown below (ignore the green arrows):




Well, as you can see, if you fill that spot with a relay, the cover won't fit anymore, so most will cut out that spot for the relay and let it fly. I was uncomfortable leaving that relay exposed even though I know it's under the hood. There is the ever elusive cover (Debated if it's one or 2 models, but all seem to be from 1999 Jetta's) that is a full cover for all 3 relays and the fuses, but unfortunately that's pretty rare to find. Also, for some reason, it's REALLY tall and can interfere with removing the MAF or other components in the engine compartment (strut brace). Time to put my 3D printer to use.

I basically just reverse engineered the cover, made it shorter, and made it printable. I know it's not glorious, but this is what I came up with (the first round):



Here was the first version printed out:



Now, I was messing around installing it and of course, one of the legs snapped off the first time I tried to remove it. So back to the drawing board. I beefed up the legs a little bit while still let them remain flexible, as well, as altered a couple of printer settings to allow better layer adhesion. The final product seems to be working much better. I've taking it on and off, the legs haven't broken (yet).

There's plenty of room to remove the MAF, as well as install with other components around.

It's not a glorious, "wow" design at all, but it's functional, and cost me maybe $3 in material. As well as 9 hours of printing while I slept :)









 

TurboABA

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Cool, but if you went through all that effort, you could've at least embossed a logo or something onto it to make it fancier.... just sayin.....
What printer are you using and what kind of working envelope do you have?
 

KrashDH

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Cool, but if you went through all that effort, you could've at least embossed a logo or something onto it to make it fancier.... just sayin.....
What printer are you using and what kind of working envelope do you have?
Nah, no logo. The way this thing has to print to avoid supports all over the place, would not have been conducive to adding a logo. Plus, heck, I hardly even noticed I had this relay box for years.

Printer is a QIDI X-Max, has an envelope of 300 x 250 x 300 mm
 

TurboABA

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Nice unit and capabilities. I'll keep an eye out for your next print.
 

KrashDH

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2002 Golf
Nice unit and capabilities. I'll keep an eye out for your next print.
This link should take you to one of my other prints for a projector retrofit setup. Except I don't think it will be able to handle the heat unfortunately which is why I haven't moved forward with the build yet:

 

TurboABA

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Start looking into using Carbon fiber-reinforced filaments
 

KrashDH

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Start looking into using Carbon fiber-reinforced filaments
Yup I've been researching filaments, the problem is the heat deformation temp is still too low in the un-annealed filaments.
I've got some Polymaker PA6-GF Nylon Filament coming with a claimed heat deflection temp of 157*C, but it's unclear whether that's in the annealed state or not. Seeing that the components need to hold fairly tight tolerances, I'm worried about annealing and losing my dimensional accuracy. If that's the unannealed state (157) then I should be ok, as long as the projector bowls stay below that temperature. It seems from my research that they generally are around 80-100*C so that would be ok. But I've been looking for more information about the higher temp filaments.
 

KrashDH

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Here's a suggestion
Looks like some good stuff for general parts for sure. Lower head deflection temp than the GF nylon I have coming. Pretty cool to see all the types of material options though, would love to give this a go for general parts
 

csstevej

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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,glutton for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB , added an 06 NB DSG
That’s cool....... wish I understood that $hit.👍
 

TurboABA

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I've been dreaming about getting into SLS.... but I'm 99.9% sure my lady would murder me if I went into that kind of a "toy"......
This self-preservation BS is kinda holding me back....
 

KrashDH

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I've been dreaming about getting into SLS.... but I'm 99.9% sure my lady would murder me if I went into that kind of a "toy"......
This self-preservation BS is kinda holding me back....
Ha, yeah, I don't have anyone to tell me no, so it's green-lighted for me if I want it. Well, even if she did say no, I'd still get it. She's cool with it though.
 

BobnOH

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Very impressed with your use of modern technology. The broken plastic is simply a materials issue, bet it's common. As more of this gets done, materials should become better, more versatile.
 

KrashDH

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Very impressed with your use of modern technology. The broken plastic is simply a materials issue, bet it's common. As more of this gets done, materials should become better, more versatile.
Thanks!

For my particular application where I broke the leg off, it was simply a poor layer adhesion at that point in the print. Which was odd because it didn't seem to do it on the other side. So maybe it cooled too much before the next layer was laid down on it, which would be kind of the same thing as a cold weld. Not strong. But yeah after the decrease in the fan speed setting, it allowed the material not to harden as fast and I got better layer adhesion.
 

Rrusse11

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Very cool! Ageing bits of plastic in our cars are getting fragile, and/or unobtanium. I must confess I'm surprised how slow the
process/machine is, but I'm sure the technology will get a LOT quicker and cheaper in the future. Please, keep up the
innovative application and work.
 

KrashDH

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Very cool! Ageing bits of plastic in our cars are getting fragile, and/or unobtanium. I must confess I'm surprised how slow the
process/machine is, but I'm sure the technology will get a LOT quicker and cheaper in the future. Please, keep up the
innovative application and work.
It's not that the machine is slow per-say, it's really the material that you are using. I can print wicked fast with PLA, probably get the same print done in a matter of hours, but the characteristics of the materials determine really the print speed. There are a LOT of adjustments and tweaks that have to be made in order to get a good print. Unfortunately, the stronger materials need to be printed slow and steady to get good adhesion and a quality finish. It's worth it for the parts that come out. I'm going to look into some of the stronger materials as mentioned above since I have a hot-end that can handle high temp materials as well as hardened nozzles.
 

TurboABA

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Ha, yeah, I don't have anyone to tell me no, so it's green-lighted for me if I want it. Well, even if she did say no, I'd still get it. She's cool with it though.
That's great... but the system I'm dreaming about is a metal printer @ about 200k so probably slightly higher cost ;)
 

KrashDH

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That's great... but the system I'm dreaming about is a metal printer @ about 200k so probably slightly higher cost ;)
Yeah if I could have it my way I'd have an entire machine shop.

At work we have 3D printers for all the metals. We're also printing copper, which on paper, is impossible
 

TurboABA

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@KrashDH ..... perfect! I'll be sending you my .STL files... no need for copper prints..... SS & Inconel will suit my immediate needs. :ROFLMAO:
 

TurboABA

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Easy now... at this rate, we are going to need a metallurgy section... let's get back to our oil burners!
 

KrashDH

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Washington
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BTW @TurboABA , I purchased a roll of the Polymide PA6-CF material and returned the GF style. After looking at the data sheets I thin I was missing something. The CF looks like it has a higher deformation temp after annealing. I will try and print my buckets for my projector retrofit with this material.
 

TurboABA

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Nice... you should be ok to just over 200deg C with that ... hopefully you can get your nozzle up to 280-290c
 

KrashDH

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Nice... you should be ok to just over 200deg C with that ... hopefully you can get your nozzle up to 280-290c
Yeah the X-max bed can get to 100*C and nozzle temp can do 300*C (claimed) in the all metal hot end which comes with the printer.

I reached out to Polymaker about their material, I know they claim head deformation around 200*C, but I'd like to know if that's off the printer, or in the annealed state (think it's the latter)
 

Rrusse11

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Obviously printing metal requires a whole 'nother level of machine. But I gotta' confess I hate all those old aging plastic bits
that are increasingly fragile. Is it possible to print in some kind of aluminum? Yeah yeah, overkill I know but it sure would
be nice to replace some of this stuff with some kind of metal.

"we are going to need a metallurgy section" TurboABA

Lol, sign me up!
 

KrashDH

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Obviously printing metal requires a whole 'nother level of machine. But I gotta' confess I hate all those old aging plastic bits
that are increasingly fragile. Is it possible to print in some kind of aluminum? Yeah yeah, overkill I know but it sure would
be nice to replace some of this stuff with some kind of metal.

"we are going to need a metallurgy section" TurboABA

Lol, sign me up!
Home metal printing solutions are coming. They have some already but they are pricey. At work, we can print any metal you can image.
 

Nevada_TDI

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Reno, sort of...
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Because I don't know any better, could you 3D turbo compressor wheels?
I will guess a 5 axis CNC would be faster and less expensive per part.
The VNT-17 to VNT-15 adapters, I have always wondered if they could be 3D printed somehow for less cost per unit?
 
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