Under Hood DPF Regen System Always Running

[JM Popaleetus]

Ok. I’m happy to fight it. Next step is to contact VWoA. Dealer says they can’t do anything. Also, I have a legal plan benefit with my job. Is it worth contacting a lawyer?

I’d just call the VWoA Escalation line first.

Actually, first I’d try talking to the service manager. Everybody here made the points why it should be covered, and @Cuzoe provided a nice script to follow. It’s hopefully pretty cut-and-dry to be honest.

Can’t pass emissions with the broken part that caused a CEL, which is exactly what the dieselgate warranty is for.

This isn’t one of those scenarios where we’re arguing the definition of a long block.

 

[P2B]

Is there an Android version of VCDS?

No, VDCS runs on Windows only.

VCDS-Mobile is platform independent, can be used on any device that has WiFi and a modern browser but is more expensive.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Email’s not too effective. I’ll call and open a case. Do you think another dealer could have a different view?

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Email’s not too effective. I’ll call and open a case. Do you think another dealer could have a different view?

Yes. But your car is already at a dealer who should be taking care of you.

Try the service manager first.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

What is the escalation line number?

Will definitely speak with service manager. Thanks.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. EST Monday - Friday

1 (800) 822-8987

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Ok Thank you. That’s the “customer care” line.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Ok Thank you. That’s the “customer care” line.

Yes, they’ll be who creates your case. Just ask that a regional manager contact you. When I opened a complaint years ago (sunroof) it was “Michael” for New England.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Extremely helpful. Thanks.

 

[740GLE]

"Kelly" was helping me get Phase 2B complete.

They are kinda fishy, soon as you get a regional case manager assigned, they won't give to a direct email or phone number. If you miss a call from them you gotta call back the 800 number and deal with a random person again, keep your case number handy.

Once I was able to speak to her on the phone she stated to me she tried to reach my cell phone and wasn't able to even leave a voice mail . . . She also stated the same when trying to reach the dealer service advisor I was working with.

Then she was able to send direct voicemails to my cell phone without it ringing . . . .

Best of luck.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Well, $960 isn’t the end of the world. I can just see it from there.

 

[pedroYUL]

I was thinking $1k was the most likely number, since I do see the part in IDparts not cheap.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

What a bargain they’re giving me!

 

[ZippyNH]

What a bargain they’re giving me!

Anytime you walk out of a dealer for less than $1200 consider it a win,
With their overhead compared to a local shop, it's almost surprising they didn't find a few other items to get the bill up a bit.... seriously, compare their HOURLY rate to local places, and the shiny floors and big buildings suddenly makes sense

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I suppose so. One little slightly annoying thing when I’m driving. Every window but the driver’s side goes down or up continuously. Does it reset somehow? Or is it a sign of impending regulator failure?

 

[Beewi]

Do you mean that your driver door window doesn't roll all the way up or down when you fully depress the up/down button on the door panel? We're your radio presets messed up too?

If they disconnected the battery and didn't slap a battery saver on your car, that can cause the computer to forget the correct travel distance for one or more window motors. There should be a simple "window relearn" procedure you can do to fix it.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Do you mean that your driver door window doesn't roll all the way up or down when you fully depress the up/down button on the door panel? We're your radio presets messed up too?

Exactly that. But my radio seems ok. I’ve been disconnecting the negative side of the battery when I park it at home or work. Still needs a jump, but I don’t want to damage it further.

 

[Nuje]

Yeah - you have to "re-teach" the window regulator where the end points are. Press and hold until the window is fully open and an extra second or two. Then press and hold until fully closed and hold an extra second or two. Should be good to go.

And if you're disconnecting the battery, yes, you'll probably have to do this every time you use the car to get window to work properly for you.

 

[pedroYUL]

So you didn't get the new battery?

...some people are just gluttons for punishment.

 

[Cuzoe]

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20138-Battery-Disconnect-Terminal/dp/B000CQBND0

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

That wins the totally needless purchase award.

Yes, new battery.

 

[pedroYUL]

And the new battery is still going flat, or are you talking before the dealer fix?

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

I haven’t had any of the work done yet. Scheduled for tomorrow.

 

[Cuzoe]

That wins the totally needless purchase award...

Well now, I'm not the one who said...

... I’ve been disconnecting the negative side of the battery when I park it at home or work...

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Why the heck would you have a new battery installed, but not fix the problem that killed your original battery? And then not at least go to Harbor Freight and buy a dirt cheap battery tender?

@Mass. Wine Guy, we might not always see eye-to-eye or agree. But like, you’re making this so much harder on yourself.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Ok. What do I do, then? I took it to the dealer. Dealer found a bad fan control module that they said makes car think ac is always on; hence the radiator fan always going=drained battery. Said they didn’t find other faults. The battery is five years old; certainly qualifies for a new one.

Does their scenario not sound possible? What are my options? Should I reschedule and take it to a good independent mechanic?

Cuzoe, yes, I said that. And I still don’t need a $22 gizmo. Just a screwdriver.

 

[JM Popaleetus]

Everyone in this thread has already told you what to do. Step-by-step.

Did they fix the issue that’s causing the battery to be drained?

The new battery should go in AFTER the car is repaired. Otherwise you’re just going to kill that one too.

 

[740GLE]

you fixed the bad battery, but haven't fixed the FCM, you kept driving the car while not damaging the new battery (disconnecting it each time you park it) until the FCM is replaced.

If you've already drained the new battery once, it would best to get it on a charger ASAP and leave it charging for a good 12-24hrs.

IMO it might have just been better of leaving the car at the dealer until parts were in hand and they turn it around.

Sounded like you were find leaving the car stranded after your trip for a while.

 

[Mass. Wine Guy]

Everyone take a breath here.

I am sincerely grateful to everyone here. I genuinely am grateful. But there seems to be a misunderstanding. I’m not ignoring anyone’s advice.

My car has not yet received any repair or new battery. Still riding with the existing battery. I’m scheduled to take the car in tomorrow. I agree, let them do it, then correct anything they got wrong.

Step one: New FCM
Step two: Install new battery
Step three: Pray

I apologize for any confusion I may have caused. It’s a talent.

 

[Cuzoe]

Step four: https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20138-Battery-Disconnect-Terminal/dp/B000CQBND0