I always wondered if idling would cancel the regen too and I got a chance to find out a few weeks ago. I was on my way to an appointment at a client's house and the regen started just as I pulled onto his street so I parked in his drive way, put the steering wheel club on and locked the doors while running (OBDeleven mod). It completed the regen and it did not seem to take any longer than a "in city" driving regen. I left the AC and headlights on as the extra loading and heat seems to speed up my regens.
I do find it hard to believe your regens only take 1-2 minutes though, how can that be? How are you figuring? Mine are always 13 to 20 min depending on conditions, freeway driving 13 min, city driving can take anywhere from 14-20 min depending on speed, traffic lights and heat.
That's why I guess my idle canceled the regen. It needed a load trigger. Living in Ca. Id have second thoughts leaving a running car, locked or not! I do have a turbo timer I've never installed. You can leave the car running with out the key. The e-brake must be engaged or it will shut off. If there was a way to have coolant temp trigger Rather than a timer Id use it.
Ill watch more closely the time each regen takes. I've got probably 10 or 12 actives since watching the polar. The noted regen time of one minute + - was doing 60 - 65 mph for apx. 1 minute or about 3 off ramps (60mph + - ÷ 1min. = 1 mile + -). I know thats not very scientific. Ill watch little closer next time.
"How can that be"? Im guessing that, like the parameters that activate a regen. the actual given soot load possibly regulates off timing? That's why your range of 13 to 20 minutes? Do you have a way to read soot load?
Regens can be adjusted?
During a regen, with the engine just turned off, I hear the fan blowing. There is a water pump that supposedly keeps the water circulating, and it cools off the heat from the recently turned off regen. Is this not good enough to keep the exhaust components from getting cooked?
It seems my regens and a few others have confirmed that the trigger point is a calculated soot point of "24 m/grs". That's why I love the polar fis readout.
They say shutting off mid regen won't hurt anything. But bad/cracked DPFs, causing soot in the tail pipe (DBS/dirty butt syndrome) is a common failure. The dieselgate fix is even worse, loading gobs more soot. To me 1200* heat + quick cooling = cracking. The extreme heat is enough to justify NOT shutting down mid regen IMO.
Time for a tune! ;-)
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