Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Clearly understood, thanks Jon.
The set up sucks.
I intend to do a under chassis mount, big intercooler as Jimbote suggests. That'll happen when i get the BRM turbo. Money. Will take time!
Turbo blew in Texas....stuck need help!
- Thread starter Beaulanier
- Start date
Clearly understood, thanks Jon.
The set up sucks.
I intend to do a under chassis mount, big intercooler as Jimbote suggests. That'll happen when i get the BRM turbo. Money. Will take time!
JFettig
Vendor
Please use a BRM compatible turbo, not a BV-39 from a BRM 
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Was thinking this one from RyanP at Darkside:Please use a BRM compatible turbo, not a BV-39 from a BRM
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co....-pd140-bmm-gtb1749v-200bhp-turbo-upgrade.html
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
For comparison:
The pic below of the Scan Gauge was taken about 1 mile after getting back on the Yellowhead Highway east of Edmonton, Alberta, July 2014 pulling the camper. Ambient temp was near 80f. We had been stopped for about 45 minutes. (Note: I have seen the IAT above 170f a few times.)
The pic below is about another five miles on down the highway. Notice the temp had dropped as the IC had begin to bring it down after going thru the gears. Also, you can see that the MPGs had begin to inch up.
Below, you can see my IC is isolated from the engine compartment (Plexiglas). The majority of the cooling air comes down the vented pillow and out the bottom, either by ram or the sensor operated puller fan.
Below, you can see the Temp Sensor on the left. It comes on at about 120f and kicks off at about 95f. The MAP sensor is there on the right.
As Jon stated, pulling in hot engine bay air will affect the IC's ability to handle the temps coming out of the Turbo. Also, the IC needs to be isolated in some manner to keep engine bay heat away from it. Lastly, size of the IC is definitely important. Mine is comparable to the OE Jetta/Golf IC. However, as Jimbote said, pushing a Vanagon down the road will result in a lot of Turbo heat being generated. It is my intent to add another IC upstream of the pillow located IC.......parts are ordered..
The pic below of the Scan Gauge was taken about 1 mile after getting back on the Yellowhead Highway east of Edmonton, Alberta, July 2014 pulling the camper. Ambient temp was near 80f. We had been stopped for about 45 minutes. (Note: I have seen the IAT above 170f a few times.)
The pic below is about another five miles on down the highway. Notice the temp had dropped as the IC had begin to bring it down after going thru the gears. Also, you can see that the MPGs had begin to inch up.
Below, you can see my IC is isolated from the engine compartment (Plexiglas). The majority of the cooling air comes down the vented pillow and out the bottom, either by ram or the sensor operated puller fan.
Below, you can see the Temp Sensor on the left. It comes on at about 120f and kicks off at about 95f. The MAP sensor is there on the right.
As Jon stated, pulling in hot engine bay air will affect the IC's ability to handle the temps coming out of the Turbo. Also, the IC needs to be isolated in some manner to keep engine bay heat away from it. Lastly, size of the IC is definitely important. Mine is comparable to the OE Jetta/Golf IC. However, as Jimbote said, pushing a Vanagon down the road will result in a lot of Turbo heat being generated. It is my intent to add another IC upstream of the pillow located IC.......parts are ordered..
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Andy, thanks again for sharing.
Your setup is indeed superior to mine. I don't have a hole cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the IC to vent down, and no barrier to engine air. It's stagnant in there.
That was not my part of the conversion. It's not right.
Instead of modifying that set up, I'll go to a big IC under chassis per Jimbote and Amosdoodle.
Man 170F is where im CRUSING!
Crap.
Your setup is indeed superior to mine. I don't have a hole cut out the bottom of the sheet metal to allow the IC to vent down, and no barrier to engine air. It's stagnant in there.
That was not my part of the conversion. It's not right.
Instead of modifying that set up, I'll go to a big IC under chassis per Jimbote and Amosdoodle.
Man 170F is where im CRUSING!
Crap.
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Yeah, today I was out on a 250 mile road trip in about 70f ambient temp here. My highest IAT was about 130f at 70 MPH on a long expressway hill (not pulling anything).
Well, I think you are on the right track now!
Well, I think you are on the right track now!
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
I still can't believe that on a flat road at 20c ambient at 65mph at 2700rpm at 1400mbar at 80c coolant, cruising, im running 70-80c IAT. Besides the poor IC set up, is something WRONG?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
probably not .... my buddy was experiencing super high iat's before he came up with the underbelly intercooler
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Jim, your doing the same underbody kit as Amosdoodle? Can you get me the shroud/mounting hardware as you both are using? Or, is it a custom fab on the van each time?
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
custom fab sheetmetal brackets and shroud
AndyBees
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- May 27, 2003
- Location
- Southeast Kentucky
- TDI
- Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Any Heating and Cooling business with a Tin Shop can fab about anything you want.
As I stated above, this week I ordered an IC that I plan to pipe into my existing system. I plan to do a set-up like Jimbote's friend did in his Vanagon. However, the return air will be going into the existing IC. ..... two ICs !
As I stated above, this week I ordered an IC that I plan to pipe into my existing system. I plan to do a set-up like Jimbote's friend did in his Vanagon. However, the return air will be going into the existing IC. ..... two ICs !
Last edited:
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Dual IC's! Aren't we cool
I was thinking about it all, and I can easily plumb in the "Amosdoodle" setup to my existing turbo, and don't have to wait and do it all at one time with a bigger turbo and BRM manifold. Can do in steps. I think ill do that asap. Im still gonna be on the road a while so not sure when. I'll scrap my IC setup for sure tho.
Clarkrep
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Location
- Ellensburg, Washington
- TDI
- '82 Vanagon Westy CJAA 2.0 TDI, '14 Jetta Wagon TDI
Any updates on this? I am working on a VNT17 1Z at 50 degrees right now and I'm having some oil drain back issues.
I was going to pick up a scavenge pump and in the process of seeing which one you went with I stumbled on to this thread which leaves me unsure of whether you had an actual turbo problem that caused the failure or the scavenge pump was the culprit.
Any feedback you have would be welcome!
I was going to pick up a scavenge pump and in the process of seeing which one you went with I stumbled on to this thread which leaves me unsure of whether you had an actual turbo problem that caused the failure or the scavenge pump was the culprit.
Any feedback you have would be welcome!
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Clark,
By all means, do not install a scavenger pump! I'm quite sure that is what actually killed my turbo. I won't go into all the details, but to get one set up properly is a nightmare, and they are an Un reliable electric item that can fail at any time, and when they do, so does your turbo. My pump actually ran fine and did not fail. What happened was, my turbo from the initial engine build was a remanufactured item. It leaked oil past the seals from day one. It was a bum turbo. On the long drive from North Carolina to Texas on the highway, the scavenger pump simply took too much oil away from the seals as many forums warn. This condition caused the shaft of the already crappy turbo to heat up and snap. So my turbo was crap anyway, and the scavenger killed it. A scavenger isn't the solution. I had my buddy pull another vnt15 from a Vw Sharan in the UK, a stock VW unit, the same as before but not a rebuilt one, and it's been singing wonderfully with zero oil leakage ever since, all over the west. Some guys with our installs have drain issues, some don't. The real solution, and what I'll do when I have the money, is use a BRM manifold that sits the turbo flipped upside.
By all means, do not install a scavenger pump! I'm quite sure that is what actually killed my turbo. I won't go into all the details, but to get one set up properly is a nightmare, and they are an Un reliable electric item that can fail at any time, and when they do, so does your turbo. My pump actually ran fine and did not fail. What happened was, my turbo from the initial engine build was a remanufactured item. It leaked oil past the seals from day one. It was a bum turbo. On the long drive from North Carolina to Texas on the highway, the scavenger pump simply took too much oil away from the seals as many forums warn. This condition caused the shaft of the already crappy turbo to heat up and snap. So my turbo was crap anyway, and the scavenger killed it. A scavenger isn't the solution. I had my buddy pull another vnt15 from a Vw Sharan in the UK, a stock VW unit, the same as before but not a rebuilt one, and it's been singing wonderfully with zero oil leakage ever since, all over the west. Some guys with our installs have drain issues, some don't. The real solution, and what I'll do when I have the money, is use a BRM manifold that sits the turbo flipped upside.
Clarkrep
Member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2015
- Location
- Ellensburg, Washington
- TDI
- '82 Vanagon Westy CJAA 2.0 TDI, '14 Jetta Wagon TDI
Thank you!
I may just start a build thread and ask some more questions there.
For the record here I am running a freshly rebuilt VNT15 with the compressor housing machined to fit the wheel from a 1749VB (G-Pop Shop) whatever hybrid that makes it... They are straight up good and helpful so I'm not ready to blame them but he did say there's a chance I damaged the exhaust side oil seal in my setting up the N75 valve. Turbo drain is "sink trap" style like a few others are running, .100" restrict or in the oil feed line as per Gerry's recommendation and also I have built an E-vac system but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Probably time for my own thread at this point. I definitely don't want to thread jack but I hope this is some help for another person in the future.
Any additional info you can provide would be appreciated!
I may just start a build thread and ask some more questions there.
For the record here I am running a freshly rebuilt VNT15 with the compressor housing machined to fit the wheel from a 1749VB (G-Pop Shop) whatever hybrid that makes it... They are straight up good and helpful so I'm not ready to blame them but he did say there's a chance I damaged the exhaust side oil seal in my setting up the N75 valve. Turbo drain is "sink trap" style like a few others are running, .100" restrict or in the oil feed line as per Gerry's recommendation and also I have built an E-vac system but it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Probably time for my own thread at this point. I definitely don't want to thread jack but I hope this is some help for another person in the future.
Any additional info you can provide would be appreciated!
Beaulanier
Veteran Member
Not a thread jack, pertinent indeed.
I use a plain oil line straight from the turbo drain 90' elbow to the fitting in the stock JX oilpan at the lowest level. The hose is short (about 8 or 10 inches) and level with the bottom of the pan; no drop. I do NOT use anything fancy or any restrictors.
As I said, old turbo leaked, thought it was my oil drain back issues, but once I put in a proper turbo, with the same oil drain set up, no problem whatsoever.
I use a plain oil line straight from the turbo drain 90' elbow to the fitting in the stock JX oilpan at the lowest level. The hose is short (about 8 or 10 inches) and level with the bottom of the pan; no drop. I do NOT use anything fancy or any restrictors.
As I said, old turbo leaked, thought it was my oil drain back issues, but once I put in a proper turbo, with the same oil drain set up, no problem whatsoever.
turbovan+tdi
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2014
- Location
- Abbotsford, BC.
- TDI
- 2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur
Sorry, that's a load of bunk, you can't pull too much oil out of the turbo, that simply defy's physics. I agree you can get crappy scavenge pumps but even the cheap chinese one's work. I ran a cheap one for a year on my full size van, put about 75,000 km's on it of daily driving, towing, trips etc and didn't skip a beat but it did wear out. I bucked up and bought a TurboWerx unit and had one issue with it, the prefilter for some reason blocked oil flow so I smoked like a chimney until I took it out, then all was good.