Turbo blew in Texas....stuck need help!

[Beaulanier]

Driving from NC to Las Vegas for a climbing trip. Turbo blew up in Amarillo. Limped into an Rv park.

Rig is an 87 Vanagon. 1.9 1Z TDI. Turbo is a VNT15 but I'm not sure exactly what from. I had the project build in the UK while I was in Europe and shipped it home. Seems an amalgamation of an AFN or sorts.

Anyone who is savvy live around Amarillo?

 

[jimbote]

you could gut the turbo and block the oil feed to limp it on ... an AFN vnt15 may be a little hard to find stateside ... i do have 1749va that's "almost" plug n' play for your setup ... you would need to add an outlet adapter and modify the boost pipe though ... also check out runonbeer in austin

 

[AndyBees]

Wow! This is the guy and vehicle that had a Thread going on his Turbo.

I have a plain Jane VNT 15 .... appears that would be of no help!

Do you have a boost gauge? Was your tranny gearing upgraded for taller 3rd and 4th gears? If not, I bet your engine is revving about 3750 at 70 mph~..

Keep us posted as you can.

 

[Beaulanier]

Jim, Andy, yeah I'm that fella y'all were really helping on my turbo thread!

Update: turbo is stock GT1749v from a 1999 VW Sharan AFN. Plenty in UK. None here.

JIM: I took the turbo off here in the RV park. Can I really gut the turbo without special tools and just drive to Vegas on no turbo? Would you help me with specifics on what Id need to do and how? (Like how can i block the turbo feed? It's a banjo bolt but how?)

I've never put on or taken off a turbo. First one was in the dirt with my travel tools today! It's off now!

Andy, had a custom tranny built in UK....Euro 5spd , my gearing is a 4:12 German made final drive and 5th is .73.....im doing 2700rpm at 65mph which is the speed i cruise. So over revving not an issue.

Have a stage III Malone tune done by Jon Fettig here on the forum. I used a vcds cable I borrowed (and don't have with me now) to data log on 3rd gear drag runs and sent him data....he chipped it twice to dial in. Boost was pretty modest. Don't have gauges yet but looking at my data logs.

Andy it's that scavenger pump that's done it! Think the seals were going anyway with the low drainage level issues, but that scavenger must have over sucked that oil away from the bearings on a 24 hr drive and cooked them. That's gotta be it. So my solution for my turbo oil usage turned out to kill it.

I have my old return line with me. Jim if I can do as you say and drive with the turbo gutted (if you tell me how), then i avoid paying 1500 dollars i don't have to Uhaul it back to NC or abandon it bc i really don't have an extra 1500 lately!

 

[jimbote]

to keep all your piping in place you have to gut the turbo otherwise the exhaust and intake wheels act as restrictors and will severly limit NA performance ... here's how i'd go about it:
*remove the compressor housing and exhaust housing
*remove the compressor wheel and turbine shaft
*replace the turbine shaft with a long bolt and nut along with washers on either side making sure the nut stays on the exhaust side ... that way if it comes loose the nut spits out the tailpipe and not into your intake tract
*block the turbo feed line by inserting the oil housing banjo through a 1/2" nut using the crush washers on either side to seal off oil pressure
*seal off the oil return with a piece of beer can and silicone or just hemostat the rubber return line to prevent oil from backfeeding into the gutted housing
*drive boostless and slow

 

[jimbote]

i just wanted to add the reason you'll be using a bolt and washers in place of the turbine shaft is you dont want exhaust constantly streaming through the empty turbo chra and contaminating your fresh air

 

[Beaulanier]

to keep all your piping in place you have to gut the turbo otherwise the exhaust and intake wheels act as restrictors and will severly limit NA performance ... here's how i'd go about it:
*remove the compressor housing and exhaust housing
*remove the compressor wheel and turbine shaft
*replace the turbine shaft with a long bolt and nut along with washers on either side making sure the nut stays on the exhaust side ... that way if it comes loose the nut spits out the tailpipe and not into your intake tract
*block the turbo feed line by inserting the oil housing banjo through a 1/2" nut using the crush washers on either side to seal off oil pressure
*seal off the oil return with a piece of beer can and silicone or just hemostat the rubber return line to prevent oil from backfeeding into the gutted housing
*drive boostless and slow

Jim,

Can I get away with SAE instead of metric for the sourced bolts/nuts as metric will be harder to find in rural middle America?

Do you know what size diameter for the long compressor replacement bolt?

Regarding the feed line sealing, am I understanding correctly to insert a 1/2" bolt through the banjo bolt opening on the feed line end which was attached to the turbo originally, and reuse the crush washers, one under the head and one under the nut, to seal? I can get away with good ole 1/2" American diameter and not metric?

Seal off the oil feed hole in the turbo housing at the top w beer can peice and silicone gasket in a tube (both on hand lol)?

Most confused about return line; do disconnect the rubber return line which goes to the oil pan, and plug each separately, the hole in the pan and the hole in the turbo drain? Could I cut the hose and put a bolt plug in each cut end and seal w a hose clamp? Easier way?

Thanks Jim!

 

[Beaulanier]

Also, given my fuel:air is pretty high due to my injectors and Malone tune, im worried about a ton of smoke.

Is there a solution?

A way to make it go into limp mode?

 

[owr084]

Just a thought for someone out there to confirm (this is just speculation) - couldn't he just pull the connector to the MAF which would force the ECU to use a default mapping and thus cut down on the smoke?

 

[jimbote]

Also, given my fuel:air is pretty high due to my injectors and Malone tune, im worried about a ton of smoke.
Is there a solution?
A way to make it go into limp mode?

it won't overfuel if the turbo is not there ... just like driving a non turbo... you may have to use a 9/16" nut instead of a 1/2" nut... or you could just use a shortened 12x1.5 bolt with a crush washer to seal it to the housing... you have about 14mm of thread depth in the housing to work with

 

[jimbote]

you can also use a 12x1.5 drain plug in place of the banjo... many bmw oil drain plugs are 12x1.5

 

[Beaulanier]

My compressor shaft narrowes considerably in the center section just in the bearings.

MY COMORESSOR SHAFT SNAPPED THERE!

Snapped in two. Yup.

Banjo seems like 3/8" or 5/16" bolt may fit to plug. Will try to run a 1/4" bolt and nuts and washers to plug compressor shaft hole, that size looks like it may fit.....

Still gotta hitch to the local NAPA.

Jim, you mean plug the oil feed coming out of the oil filter regarding the feed line sealing, with that bmw size?

Not fun all this.

 

[Bczuk]

A guy like RyanP might be able to get you another turbo fairly quickly. I don't know what your timeline is like but when he shipped my GTB turbo to Vancouver BC it was only a couple days in transit from the UK

 

[Beaulanier]

A guy like RyanP might be able to get you another turbo fairly quickly. I don't know what your timeline is like but when he shipped my GTB turbo to Vancouver BC it was only a couple days in transit from the UK

RyanP from Darkside? Yeah he could get it. I was already planning to use his BRM GT1749VB 200hp item for my REAL fix i WAS saving for!

Trying to get the UK fella that i worked with on the conversion to send me a Sharan turbo he has in the garage.

 

[1854sailor]

Either Ryan at Darkside or Frans at www.dutchautoparts.com, both excellent sources. When I ordered my replacement turbo from Frans, he had one in stock and I got it the next day!

 

[jimbote]

yes plug the feed in the housing with a bmw drain plug... remove all the bearing from the turbo to get a 5/16 or 3/8 bolt through ... whatever fits

 

[AndyBees]

Okay, it looks like Jimbote is guiding you properly to deal with the emergency until you get where there's knowledgeable help, etc.

1. You need to just remove the oil feed line completely.
2. Plug the hole in the filter housing as Jimbote has directed.
3. The hole in the top of the Turbo will need to be plugged as Jimbote has instructed. Once the oil feed line is off, you should be able to get the fitting out with a 17mm boxed end wrench. A parts house should be able to match up a bolt based on the fitting that comes out of the Turbo. (disregard #3)
4. I am sort of lost about the Turbo guts. Jimbote is wanting you to put a bolt in there to replace the Turbo Shaft. Size doesn't matter as long as you use a washer on each side for sealing purposes. However, unless you take the Turbo Cartridge out of the manifold, it will be difficult to remove the guts............... I'm trying to imagine this in my head as I type.... with a broken shaft, when the cartridge is removed, the Turbine will come out as well as a heat shield. On the Compressor side, you will have to remove the aluminum clam shell to get the Compressor out. So, the big hole that's left between the two halves needs to be plugged. That's where the bolt and washer come into play.

I cannot remember if the vacuum line going to the Actuator should be unplugged or not. If so, the hose needs to be plugged.

What you are looking for is free flow of exhaust gases and no mixing with the intake air on the other side of the Turbo...

Obviously, the CEL will come on and a number of DTCs related to these mods will be thrown....... no worries until a new Turbo is installed.

And, keep in mind, the engine is going to "powerless" compared to what it had before all this happened. You will be using the gear box more...

I hope this helps....

 

[jimbote]

actually andy i did not recommend plugging the turbo oil fitting at the turbo ...i did however recommend plugging or clamping off the turbo drainback line and no need to completely remove the oil feed ... just move it out of the way to get r' done

 

[Beaulanier]

Okay, it looks like Jimbote is guiding you properly to deal with the emergency until you get where there's knowledgeable help, etc.

1. You need to just remove the oil feed line completely.
2. Plug the hole in the filter housing as Jimbote has directed.
3. The hole in the top of the Turbo will need to be plugged as Jimbote has instructed. Once the oil feed line is off, you should be able to get the fitting out with a 17mm boxed end wrench. A parts house should be able to match up a bolt based on the fitting that comes out of the Turbo.
4. I am sort of lost about the Turbo guts. Jimbote is wanting you to put a bolt in there to replace the Turbo Shaft. Size doesn't matter as long as you use a washer on each side for sealing purposes. However, unless you take the Turbo Cartridge out of the manifold, it will be difficult to remove the guts............... I'm trying to imagine this in my head as I type.... with a broken shaft, when the cartridge is removed, the Turbine will come out as well as a heat shield. On the Compressor side, you will have to remove the aluminum clam shell to get the Compressor out. So, the big hole that's left between the two halves needs to be plugged. That's where the bolt and washer come into play.

I cannot remember if the vacuum line going to the Actuator should be unplugged or not. If so, the hose needs to be plugged.

What you are looking for is free flow of exhaust gases and no mixing with the intake air on the other side of the Turbo...

Obviously, the CEL will come on and a number of DTCs related to these mods will be thrown....... no worries until a new Turbo is installed.

And, keep in mind, the engine is going to "powerless" compared to what it had before all this happened. You will be using the gear box more...

I hope this helps....

Hitches to parts store. Got bolts and nuts to fix. Working now...

#3 which fitting exactly are you referring to? You mean the bolt to replace the hole from the compressor shaft?

 

[jimbote]

Hitches to parts store. Got bolts and nuts to fix. Working now...
#3 which fitting exactly are you referring to? You mean the bolt to replace the hole from the compressor shaft?

ignore number 3 ... uneccessary if you carry out the other steps
... good luck !

 

[jimbote]

just make sure you plug or clamp off the turbo drainback line ...

 

[AndyBees]

Check Jimbote's response ............... below what I said.

He says just to leave the oil feed pipe in place at the Turbo.

Yes, and I forgot about the oil drain pipe (baby sitting the youngest grandson, and I didn't sleep in a Holiday Inn last night... )

If you don't plug-off the oil drain line there could be blow-by gasses and oil from the crankcase come up in the Turbo since there is no oil pressure coming in from the oil feed pipe.

 

[AndyBees]

Jimbote, at what angle do the Vanes need to be set? Will the ECU try to change their angle if the Actuator is left connected via vacuum?

 

[jimbote]

Jimbote, at what angle do the Vanes need to be set? Will the ECU try to change their angle if the Actuator is left connected via vacuum?

unhook and plug the vacuum line and the vanes will be forced full open by the vnt actuator spring ....EDIT! i guess just unplugging the n75 will achieve the same result

 

[Beaulanier]

Ok guys.....

Turbo gutted
Compressors/shaft totally removed
Bolt put in place to plug the shaft holes. Sealed well.
Removed actuator entirely
Plugged vac line where it used to enter actuator
Hitching cannot find bmw drain plug for oil fiilter housing
Plugged successfully the banjo turbo end of the oil feed w 10mm bolt/nut/etc
Plugged the return line at the oil pan

Test drive. All good. Motor sounds fine. Computer drastically lowering power. Feels slower than even the usual N/A diesel. Takes forever on a flat rd to get 4th and barely pulls 5th. Top speed flat rd 40-45mph. Smokey as a NA diesel should be, not tooooo bad.

All good. Very worried about an 800mi drive thru middle of nowhere NM and AZ desert to Vegas. No mtns but there are some grades.

Interstate 40 is really the best safest way. BUT, im gonna worry about getting pulled over doing 35-45mph.

My british builder has a used Sharan VNT same as mine. He says he will fed ex to my vegas destination. We will see. Barring that I'll order from Darkside RyanP


This is not fun y'all

What do you think fellas?

 

[jimbote]

if the actuator is removed completely the vanes may try to close under gravity ... i would wire the actuator lever into to full open position or up as far as it will go ... this will ensure the vanes can't fall closed and restrict your exhaust flow... otherwise great to hear you're up and running without blowing oil everywhere

 

[Beaulanier]

if the actuator is removed completely the vanes may try to close under gravity ... i would wire the actuator lever into to full open position or up as far as it will go ... this will ensure the vanes can't fall closed and restrict your exhaust flow... otherwise great to hear you're up and running without blowing oil everywhere

Jim,

Im not sure i understand how the vanes work. Are those the ring of tab like things inside the exhaust side housing I saw? They poke their noses into slots in a ring that runs the circumference. Actuator moves a tab that looks like them. That it?

Wasn't sure just how that system affects things at all flow wise. I mean my compressor shaft hole is plugged....how will gasses get back up there now?

By wiring the actuator full open, you mean from outside, against its little stop screw which would be full open right?

Explain how his vane/actuator works? It's different from the compressor side and exhaust side turbine fans. Dunno.

 

[jimbote]

wire it up away from the stop screw ... this opens the vanes wide open

 

[2many diesels]

Im sorry, I find this funny. Every time I read the headline for this thread, I think a country song is going to follow.....My turbo blew in texas-my dog just up and gone.

Im sorry, I have no intention of making light of your situation, I hope all works out well-But, when you get home, start thinking jotting down some lyrics.

Damn. George Strait retired. I can hear him sing it now.

 

[Beaulanier]

wire it up away from the stop screw ... this opens the vanes wide open

On outside of turbo, actuator tab wired AWAY from the stop screw on the turbo.

Ok.