Turbo Actuator Replacement help

[scow1]

Ok so I was driving home from Madison and as I'm on an off ramp my sportwagen gives a pfssst and then it starting smoking black smoke out of the exhaust. If I tried to accelerate I had no power and lots of smoke. Finally threw a check engine light and car went into limp mode. I finally trace it back to the turbo actuator crapped out on my cr170 turbo. I found you can purchase replacement actuators but can you replace this while the turbo is still mounted on the vehicle or do you need to removed the turbo and manifold to be able to replace it? Also is there a guide on setting the actuators correct min and max pressures or even the replacement of it?

thanks for any help guys sucks driving around in limp mode.

 

[super1]

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[turbobrick240]

It can be replaced with turbo in place. Requires a special wrench, iirc.

 

[Tkikk]

It can be replaced with turbo in place. Requires a special wrench, iirc.

Which wrench and where can I get one?

 

[Tkikk]

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Would you mind helping me wih this exact same thing?

 

[StuartDB]

Hi I have bought a new actuator and was also hoping for a guide the existing actuator doesn't hold any vacuum. I assume you need to remove the cam cover. I am wondering if it is possible to use a crows foot to get to the nuts?

I have a 2.0lt TDI (108bhp) and have the 4011188G actuator

 

[PRY4SNO]

If you use a 10mm crow's foot you can do it without removing the cam cover. Also a flex head ratchet wrench is an invaluable tool for this job.

Granted, removing the cam cover would make replacing the actuator significantly easier. Though you then possibly run into issues needing a slide hammer for the injectors, brittle wiring, and a new gasket and so on.

 

[StuartDB]

Thanks, I have never worked on a TDI before, and it sounds like the cam cover is more complicated compared to petrol.

I will look for some xmas deals on flex head ratchets - the existing actuator is definitely shot (I can blow through and suck through the actuator with my own breath) - my worries are:
1. the new actuator will just split too - if the veins / flaps etc are carbon-seized, or damaged
2. the actuator on my TT was rusty and therefore near on impossible to undo the nuts
3. how will I get the nut back on the bottom of the actuator rod, with the cam cover in situ? there's only a small space.

 

[PRY4SNO]

The new actuator should be fine. Or, at least, that's not something I'd worry about. There have been revisions since the initial design that likely account for the weak diaphragm.

Different climate over there but the bolts are all at the top and easy to access. Spray them down with some penetrating oil the night before and you should have no issues.

I tied the actuator nut to some teflon tape and fished it down to the bottom of the rod, and got it started using a flat screwdriver.

You could do the job with just a crowsfoot but I wouldn't want to... that flex head ratchet was a game changer.

Regarding the crowsfoot, I found it handy to tape it to the extension to ensure it didn't fall off while in use. Which was... frustrating.

 

[StuartDB]

well I cannot see how to get to this through the tiny gap? can the plastic container on top of the cam cover separate from it? or is it one piece?

Some photos, I can get the flexi head on the nut but at such a tight angle I cannot get any torque to move it?

I am wondering whether it might be easier to remove the TIP and maybe even battery tray etc and try and get in from the side?

you can see I have wedged it up on the shelf but that is obviously making it more difficult to undo as under so much tension.

and thoughts?

 

[PRY4SNO]

Pics don't work for me but you can remove the air inlet for some extra space.

A crow's foot is your best friend here.

Not sure why, but I was unable to use the flex head ratchet on removal but was able upon reinstall. Likely just due to me becoming more familiar with the ergonomics as the job progressed.

 

[StuartDB]

so to remove the bottom nut - is it possible to approach from the side, above the gearbox or am I supposed to fit a tool down in-between the cam cover with all that plastic and heat shield on the cam cover and the hot side which are all an extra couple of mm's for visibility

http://pauls-pickles.co.uk/golftdi/20201226_152523.jpg

I have a deep 10mm socket and just wonder if it maybe possible to get a tool between the top of the manifold and between the head and compressor housing

 

[StuartDB]

Winner...

So a deep 10mm socket on a 3/8in ratchet from under the turbo and above the manifold, reaching around the TIP and disconnecting a couple of sensors, and using a screwdriver to keep some tension on the socket to allow the 15° ratchet action for about 25 minutes, I reckon my calves will ache tomorrow. The last few turns I just turned the actuator.

I am going to cut an inch or so off the new actuator rod, so it's easier to fit a socket underneath.

I suppose I should use some decent thread locker or similar.


I assume vacuum opens the viens to increase boost.. rather than like the k04 etc which uses positive pressure to open a wastegate?

Is it worth me doing a 'Mr Muscle' clean?

The arm seems to move up and down freely.

 

[StuartDB]

grrrr.... so essentially I still get the limp mode for underboost (after 10 seconds) - but instead of only going to 1300mbar (absolute) instead of the requested 2300mbar it goes to 1800mbar !!!

Now I need to work out whether the issue is -

1. Where I have set the actuator as I set it up at the top of the arm movement with the actuator relaxed but then after all fitted noticed the actuator screw hole were a few mm's higher.

2. I have damaged the actuator by pulling it up enough the get the 10mm deep socket out

3. There is another vacuum leak somewhere <-- I will try and locate the correct output tests on ODBEleven.

I have an old boost gauge somewhere so I expect it is worth using that to see how much vacuum is being sent to the actuator from the N75

I have also purchased a 1/4 inch deep 10mm socket for my mini Matika Allen bit set with a strong but tiny ratchet


It's a shame the forum doesn't allow images, you can usually set a limit of total image size or individual size.. but using "image hosting" is untrusted after photo-bucket (or whoever) held the world to ransom.

 

[StuartDB]

As a quick update, I can see the new actuator starts moving straight away and stops moving at 15 in/hg (I assume that this is a positive number even though its a vacuum pressure).

I actually reckon I will be able to undo the bottom nut and see if it is possible to get the arm down further after applying the full vacuum. But could that equate to 500mbar missing or is it extra boost missing? Or is it possible that it is opening too quickly causing lag?

I have to be honest I am used to a massive 380ftlb torque (peak) / 340bhp from my AET hybrid k04 on my TT so I'm expecting too much, but want to stop the limp mode on this.

 

[StuartDB]

Just to complete my resolution, I ran an output test from ODBEleven for the "wastegate solenoid" and the N75 I put onto this car a few years ago to try and resolve the issue - when I could not scan the car properly (eg android torque and only had VCDSLite via KKL) was not outputting any vacuum I refitted the original one I had luckily kept and the boost has returned and the actual follows the specified (I still am unsure as whether the N75 is properly working still) as the output test is supposed to cycle ON then OFF but when running the output test it was always at 25in/hg rather then 25 - 0 - 25 - 0 , this may actually be a fault with ODBEleven as when I was not running the output test the vacuum was 0 - so it is not simply always passing in 25in/hg (bypassing the N75 entirely)