Tuner thinks something is wrong after trying 3.5 tune

[MÄDDNESSS]

EDIT I redid the turbo actuator adaptation. Duty cycle is 16-17% & 99.4%. MAF spec, at idle, is 200-350mg/h. My MAF is reading 470-480mg/h. Unplugged, its ready 425-430mg/h. I tried a known working MAF, same result. His car with his MAF & my MAF are reading 260-270mg/h.

I recently put on a new head and CR170. Before I had the stock cr140 turbo with a Malone 2.5 tune and it was fine.
After putting on the new head and CR170 turbo, it felt the same, just as punchy as before. Figured I just didnt notice the difference on the same tune with the different turbo.
After ironing out the kinks, it drove fine. Same MPGs and no codes.
Today I went to get the 3.5 tune, swapped the EGT sensors and it was really laggy. After pulling logs the tuner said it was something mechanical. He put the 2.5 tune back on and it feels like I have less power than before he tried the 3.5 tune.
He believes there is something wrong mechanically even though there are no codes or other such tell tail signs.
I feel very confident that I did everything right. Used quality tq wrenches all around (craftsman and snapon), didnt reuse any stretch bolts, gaskets or seals. Im not saying im perfect or that I didnt mess something up.
How can I confirm if there is or is not something mechanically wrong with my turbo?
I just remembered when I did the turbo actuator adaptation, I had a boost leak. I fixed the boost leak and didn't preform the adaptation again. Would that throw the tune off and make the tuner think there would be something mechanically wrong?
Thanks in advance.

 

[YukonLT]

Why did you have to do the turbo actuator adaptation?

 

[turbobrick240]

Sounds like a turbo actuator issue to me too. I had a similar laggy episode once after washing under the hood. I think some moisture got in somewhere. Resolved itself after driving for 10 minutes and turning the car off.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Why did you have to do the turbo actuator adaptation?

Because its a new turbo.

Sounds like a turbo actuator issue to me too. I had a similar laggy episode once after washing under the hood. I think some moisture got in somewhere. Resolved itself after driving for 10 minutes and turning the car off.

So you think because i adapted it with a boost leak, that could be the issue?

 

[YukonLT]

Because its a new turbo.

Ok, just wondering. I never had to do that when I put my CR170 in.

 

[turbobrick240]

Because its a new turbo.
So you think because i adapted it with a boost leak, that could be the issue?

Yes, I think there is a very good chance that is your problem. Good luck!

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Yes, I think there is a very good chance that is your problem. Good luck!

I guess I'll try it when I get home. The tuner didn't think that could be the problem.

 

[turbobrick240]

I'd also double check for any other possible boost leaks. And maybe check, clean, and dielectric grease the actuator plug connection.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

I guess I could check the electrical connections. I didnt think about those. I'll look over the other hoses while im in there.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

I redid the adaptations with the engine warm and no codes.

3rd gear from 1500-ish RPMs. Logged in "TURBO!" mode.

The actual boost doesnt meet requested boost till about 3.5 seconds. He says it should be about 1.3 seconds faster.

This is the 2.5 tune on the cr170 turbo.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

http://i.imgur.com/w4Vkk2e.jpg

Idk why the picture isnt coming up via the URL, here is the link.

 

[turbobrick240]

My guess is the actuator wiring got jostled around when you were switching the orange and black egt sensor plugs.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

I didnt switch them. They werent swtiched untill the turner tried installing the 3.5 tune.

 

[turbobrick240]

So the laggy boost immediately followed switching the plugs?

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

I didn't log it before I got there so I dont know what the actual boost was vs the requested.

He only suspected something was wrong after the 3.5 tune was installed and he asked me if it felt faster. When I said it felt like it had less power, he logged block 011 and notice the lag in it. He reinstalled the 2.5 tune and loggged that. Thats when he determined there was something wrong with my car.

 

[turbobrick240]

My bad, we have a vacuum operated turbo actuator. But the electric N75 solenoid that controls the actuator could be malfunctioning. I'd try some vigorous Italian tune ups. Maybe the actuator diaphragm is just a bit stiff.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

The cr170 is also vacuum operated.

 

[KERMA]

2009 have a slightly different turbo control scheme than the CJAA. Some of the mode switches are absent and others affect the functions in a different way.

It can definitely be fixed in the tune.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

So you think its the tune?

 

[turbobrick240]

If the tune was at fault, I would think performance would have returned to normal when the 2.5 tune(that worked fine before) was reloaded.

 

[KERMA]

how does it run with the old tune

how does it run stock

that will give you your answer. I can only speculate based on what's posted

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

It is on the old 2.5 tune. Didnt try stock.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Does anybody have boost request/actual logs to compare mine to?

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Since I had so much of it taken apart, could there be other things I need to adapt?

I just tested the actuator and it starts to move around 2-3 inches of mercury and stops around 15 as it should.

 

[KERMA]

you should switch back to a known working configuration. That means EGT sensors in the correct position and the old tune that was working before. Then you know if it's the car or not

I would think you SHOULD be able to switch between 2.5 and 3.5 without swapping EGT positions- you just won't get the um "benefit" of fooling the EGT at high load is all. (FWIW I don't agree with that practice but it is what it is)

Maybe one of the sensors is left loose causing an exhaust leak?

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

The last know working configuration was the cr140 turbo with the 2.5 tune.

I really dont want to swap turbos again.

Sensors are all in their OEM configuration and tight.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Cleaned MAF, pressure tested to 25psi (it holds) and hooked up a vacuum gauge to it and it hold 22.5 at idle.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

I redid the adaptations, again for the 4th or 5th time, and now Vacuum is holding 20.5-21. Im guessing it dropped a little because the engine is now up to operating temp.

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

Also, what sensor do they flip? I wasnt payibg attention when they did it.

Is it black and orange?

 

[MÄDDNESSS]

After doing to more poking around with VCDS I found, during the "Charge Pressure Control" that the "Charge Pressure Control Duty Cycle" went from 12.6% to 99.4%. When that came to light my tuner said it should be between 10% & 90%. So he told me to turn the nuts down just 2 or 3 threads towards the bottom of the shaft.

While getting things out of my way to to gain access, I found this.

http://i.imgur.com/sFyQIrk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OFcsqf3.jpg

Its the O-ring on the oulet pipe of the compressor housing.
Apparently, I pinched this seal a little bit when I installed it. Even though I couldn't hear it during the boost leak test, there was a little oil on the bottom outside which leads me to believe it was leaking boost ever so slightly.

Would that cause my problem?
Would that account for the "Charge Pressure Duty Cycle" to be out of spec?

Keep in mind, I didn't/dont have a cel or any codes.