Trunk relay/actuator problem

qubeb

New member
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Location
Arkansas
TDI
2001 jetta
I have a 2001 jetta TDI With a trunk opening problem. Bought a new actuator motor and this is not the problem, both test fine on the bench. When I press the trunk key remote the actuator makes a noise but does not open. I checked the wires to the trunk motor and found there is a constant 9.6 volts to one side, (I think the wrong side of the contacts.) I thought it was a bad trunk relay (#79) position #2 under the dash according to the manual. I ordered and can not find a place to install on the relay board. I have the comfort control modular system so is there a relay on it or do I have a general CCM problem? The trunk is the only thing not working. I did have a drained battery a month ago and the problem started shortly after, but not immediately.
Thanks for any direction.

Another question; is there any way to make the glow plugs fire up at a warmer temp? And how do you test to see if I am getting the afterglow that is suppose to happen every time ,cold or warm? My car sputters and smokes starting cold at 50 degrees. I did replace the cold temp sending unit a few years back because of a code.
Thanks
Bill
 

sdeck

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Location
Northern Colorado Front Range
TDI
2003 Jetta, 253K, 01M, DLC520s, VNT-17(sold); 2014 Passat SE 6M, 61,000 miles (Feb 16 buyback date)
I have the same trunk issue, I think. Mine is intermittant, if yours is everytime, then the link between the motor and lock is broken (common). It started after someone backed into my trunk and I had to have the lid replaced. Drove the autobody place nuts. I took it back 4 times. They replaced the actuator and linkage and lubed the crap out of everything, but no help. They finally gave up. I checked the pneumatic lifts and they are both fine. I split open the heavy rubber wire "hose" near the drivers side trunk lid hinge and noted that 3/4 wires had the insulation split. I wrapped them with electrical tape. That helped a little, I think, but it still sticks. I am now at a loss to explain it.

As far as the smoking issue, doesn't sound like a GP issue if it is happening at warm temps. If you can get a wire or lead into the GP boot, you can monitor voltage when the key is on.
 

sisyphus

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2008
Location
Appleton, Maine
TDI
99.5, '01 A4 Jetta sedans, 5 sp box, Hamman mod, Joey mod, Bilsteins, 2.00" lift
The plastic (!) thing that is connected to the actuator breaks. Huge PITA to get at from inside the trunk, armed w/ flashlight and screwdriver.
 

GenMan

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 10, 2009
Location
Grandville MI
TDI
2011 Golf (aka Phil) 4dr 3 pedals Candy White
Does it work from the switch in the door. I have an issue with mine, it will pop open from the remote but not from the switch.
 

qubeb

New member
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Location
Arkansas
TDI
2001 jetta
follow up

Thanks for the replies Folks:

I'll check the wires in the trunk fold. I did noticed they seemed kinked a little. I looked passed this when I found 9.6volts still in the wire. When I pull the inside trunk release latch it reacts like the key fob and only makes the actuator hum but not move.
I hope it is only a wire if not I'll post again on this issue.
Thanks

As for my glow plug issue; Has any one bi-passed the cold temp sending unit and let the GPs be on the full 12 seconds every time, cold or hot? I don't see how this would hurt the engine. Maybe it would wear out the GPs faster; don't know.

Thanks again for the info.
Bill
 

qubeb

New member
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Location
Arkansas
TDI
2001 jetta
Hi Good Friends:
You were right, 1 broken wire and split coverings on the other 4. A splice, soldier and tape and we are back to popping trunk happy.
Thanks
Bill
 

sdeck

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Location
Northern Colorado Front Range
TDI
2003 Jetta, 253K, 01M, DLC520s, VNT-17(sold); 2014 Passat SE 6M, 61,000 miles (Feb 16 buyback date)
5 wires? I only saw 4 on mine. Maybe that's why it is still wonky
 

DickSilver

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2004
Location
Kentucky
TDI
2004 B5.5V, 1996 B4V
This is a general comment about using a voltmeter to check stuff in a 12 volt automotive system. Most digital voltmeters made today, even the cheapies, have a very high impedance on their test leads, typically many megohms. What that means is that any itty-bitty leakage, even sometimes from a neighboring wire, is enough to display a partial voltage (like 9.6 volts). This is not your fault: it is a characteristic of the voltmeter.

For this reason, I keep a homemade tester, which is just a 12 volt dashboard lamp of any kind, with a couple feet of thin, flexible insulated wire soldered to each terminal of the lamp, and a miniature alligator clip soldered to the end of each wire. When a tester like this is clipped onto, say, the body wiring ground - brown wire in a VW - and whatever you are testing, the lamp lights up if 12 volts and not if 0 volts. Usually, in a car system, there are not any wires that measure anything other than 0 or 12 volts. The only exception are wires from temperature sensors and the like, and VW usually gives resistance values (xx ohms at a certain temperature) for checking them anyway.
 

TalonGuy

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2003
Location
Markham, Canada
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
Hi Good Friends:
You were right, 1 broken wire and split coverings on the other 4. A splice, soldier and tape and we are back to popping trunk happy.
Thanks
Bill
I suspect this is what's wrong with mine. Actuator makes a hum when key fob is pressed, but no movement. Harness shows 8.xx volts and 0.2x volts when key fob is pressed.

Was the broken wire in the rubber hose part? How did you get to these wires? Did you have to unclip all the harnesses and plastic anchors, slide the wiring out the hole, pop the rubber boots off, take the rubber hose off the track and then slide up to expose the wires? Or did you simply cut through the rubber hose to expose the wires and just taped it up afterwards? I'm hesitant at this point to cut into the rubber, and unclipping everything seems like a lot of work.

Also, can I take out the actuator and give it 12V directly from the battery to confirm its working? Will it fry? Will it break some gears if I leave it with power for too long? From experience, I know some actuators are only given power for a split second to run, and if run for too long, the gears overturn and break.

(EDIT)
Re-read this and a few other threads. Looks like everybody had to cut into the rubber. No way to do it the "perfect" way.
 
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munkee

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Location
sw mn
TDI
2006 tdi jetta
Had that happen to mine, there is a plastic arm that transfers the horizontal motion to the linkage in a vertical way,,,mine broke so I just made a linkage rod from the keyed opener part down to the latch. I didnt want to call every junk yard and buy a whole trunk to get one little piece of plastic..anywho check that part out and see if its broke
 

Bora-chiara

Veteran Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2007
Location
San Tan Valley, Arizona
TDI
ALH, BHW, CKRA
Found mine today, it was the broken wires. Getting there wasn't easy, we just picked up a new full sized microwave and it was locked in the trunk. The story gets better, the microwave is too big to get out via the back seats. An hour later when I got the trunk open, I found the wires. I only ended up cutting the boot minimally, about 3/4 a bit above and below the break, then sliced down the middle. Tomorrow after soldering it, I can tape it back up and still keep the boot mostly intact. Thanks forum go-ers. You save my panic moments every time!
 

PD41

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Location
Redondo Beach
TDI
1996 Passat B4 TDI Wagon 1996 A3 Passat TDI Sedan
Just bought a 1996 Passat. Trunk won't lock with key or drivers door.
Will check it out after work. Don't have the key FOB either and need door handle gaskets too.

Thanks Martin
 

Zeaus

New member
Joined
Mar 25, 2013
Location
Missouri
TDI
2000 5-speed, 2002 auto, 1981 Rabbit 5-speed, 1978 Rabbit 4-speed
Just soldered all five wires back together. I should have had a clue when the light stopped working. You guys are great!! Thanks for the post.
 

BehroMoto

Active member
Joined
Aug 19, 2010
Location
Rockford, MI
TDI
2002 Jetta, Silver | 2001 Golf, Black | 1998 Beetle, Blue
This thread helped me. Here's my contribution:
I could hear the relay up under the dash firing, so I knew it wasn't the switch.
The arm on the mechanism wasn't broken. (A common problem.)
When I applied 12v directly to the actuator, it worked.
I concluded that the problem was in the wiring, and found it in the protective sleeve that goes from the trunk to the trunk lid.



 
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