TROUBLE while on Road Trip w BORROWED 2000 Jetta 1.9 TDI - need info!

[RTIII]

I'm short on time this AM, but some quick replies:

Where did he get the 1,500 miles from?

He said 15k miles, not 1500! If I said 1500, I typoed! Oops!

Slackware is the only OS that makes me not want to vomit. But don't mind me, I can barely write a shell script

I run Fedora, but either way, SURE beats Windows! As for shell scripts, it's a klunky programming "language," but it's powerful!

IF this is a borrowed car AND you are having issues, why not take it to a shop or find a local guru to help diagnose and fix the car? Or call the owner and ask for advice? You're mentioning some expensive items to repair/replace (on a borrowed car): exhaust downpipe, turbo.

It sounds like you have limited tools with you at the moment?

Eric

Hi Eric,

I've kept the owner aprised at every moment there was some new development - he's even on this list now!

As far as diagnostic guru, ALL the shops I've visited or called have said, "we don't work on cars that old, sorry!"

And yes, limited time AND limited tools, however, yesterday I got some serious loaners! YAY! And, I still have the ODBII reader so I can try again, though I didn't do the first reading of it.

Slice the old hoses along the length of the nipple and peel them off to avoid breaking brittle plastic.

The DTCs you posted above are meaningless, apparently the reader doesn't speak VW.

Agreed on cutting the old instead of risking the plastic fittings.

As to the DTC codes, that's what I thought so I called someone I know who's an expert with that era's Audi and Porsche cars and he said it's an older ODB1 series, and translate as I reported above. .However, I'mn not satisfied yet and will take a second crack at it as soon as I can - I have to head out and get parts NOW!

 

[braddies]

When cutting the stubborn vacu line off the nipple slowly and with light pressure with a razor blade and carefully support the backside so it doesn't snap, a couple extra T fittings from AutoZone are nice too have on hand just in case

That's an OBD 2 car... Auto parts stores scanners will pull up the obd codes (a great starting point) but VCDS is the gold standard code readers for VW/Audi/Porche to bring up detailed diagnostics

 

[JETaah]

I suppose a box cutter blade will serve the purpose but shooting a bit of WD40 on the nipple where it meets the hose and picking up the edge with a pick so that it can weep in there will do wonders to release the bond. Give 'er a few minutes and then a twist and it should let go.
Cutting with a blade by running it longitudinally along the nipple can leave a groove that may or may not seal if you break through to the plastic.
It will work, no doubt, if you are careful. Lots of way to skin a nipple.

Working with 20+ year old plastic is always risky. I dread it and especially when dealing with interior trim parts.

 

[jetta 97]

DTC codes needts to be PXXXX, so you need to find good OBD reader to get correct codes to see what really going on.

Other thing , Did you try to drive car again and see is it power back?

Those ALH engines been known for sticky turbo veins and you may have over-boost problem which will put car in limp mode and it will be like old diesel, but if you cycle key off/on power will be back, So I suggest to go drive car and see if power comes back.

Also bad MAF sensor will make car same way ., they why we need correct Pxxx codes .

 

[hskrdu]

Here's our trusted mech list. It is not usually updated. AARod (Atlanta) has moved on to other projects (but both of the previous 2 posters are on it!).

Trusted TDI Mechanics - By State

Click Below : Looking to be added to the Member Recommended Mechanics List or have someone you want added ? Click me :) Member Recommended TDI Mechanics - By State List Member Recommended TDI Mechanics By State Map Disclaimer and suggestions for finding a mechanic for your car: TDIClub is not...

forums.tdiclub.com

BTW, hasn't OBD2 been standard across VW since 1996 or so?

 

[RTIII]

Was "out the door" at 9AM to get the supposedly arrived correct cloth-braided OE type vacuum hose. But I had the foresight to call and the dealership said, "Oh, I meant to call you [...] You'll need 5' to do them all and there's only 4' on hand, so they canceled the order!" What PUCKERS!

I just can't wait any longer to order in parts, so I went hunting for imperial unit hose. The regional NAPA warehouse type store was near to hand so I went there and bought Gates brand "equivalents" (which we know aren't), including 5' of 3.2 mm (1/8") instead of the 3.5mm, and I got 2' worth of an unknown diameter (because the hose isn't marked and the receipt isn't handy) in replacement of the 5mm...

I bought the Mann WK 853/3x fuel filter, which I understand is OE for this car. I got some Diesel Kleen figuring it can't hurt and someone recommended it. I also tried to get a small diesel fuel can but couldn't find one, so I skipped it, thinking I'll put the fuel from the old filter into the new one, checking for water, of course, and topping up with the Diesel Kleen, figuring it won't really burn but may help prevent a need to bleed the system. (That may be both unnecessary and misguided but it's what I was thinking.

NEW PROBLEMS I didn't expect:

1) I have NO IDEA how to get the hoses mounted to the firewall free so I can get to the vacuum hoses! These run left to right and mount to the underside of the "rain tray" at the top of the firewall at about the dead-center (L to R), and are something like 15mm (more than 1/2") in OD. How the heck do I get these things out of the way WITHOUT breaking their ancient plastic clip(s)?

2) How do I get the PLASTIC insert into the fuel filter out without breaking the very fragile PLASTIC piping?! (WHY doesn't a new one come with the filter?! STUPID!)

UGH. I'm "dead in the water,"

Before actually starting work on installing these pieces, however, like others commenting here I figured the ODBII codes were incorrectly read, so I did what you do when all else fails; I RTFMed! (Read The F... Manual!) The unit is a SeekOne SK860, there's an owners manual, and therein I read on page 7, section 2.7, that the $0x type codes I reported earlier are a part of what it calls "Mode Byte," and then goes on to describe $01 to $0A, etc, etc...

So, when I got here and read this:

DTC codes needts to be PXXXX, so you need to find good OBD reader to get correct codes to see what really going on.

I figure that because the previously reported data wasn't considered useful, there was a procedural error in using this reader, and I'll try again shortly, this time hopefully with the benefits of having read the manual!

I appreciate jetta 97's further comment but they're sort of moot given the circumstances. (I'll drive it after these parts are in.)

Here's our trusted mech list. It is not usually updated. AARod (Atlanta) has moved on to other projects (but both of the previous 2 posters are on it!).

Wish I'd know about that a week ago! Oh, well... If I have further trouble I don't feel up to handling, I'll be happy to hand it off to someone, if the funds are there to cover it.

 

[Simple_Man]

In your picture Intercooler_ducting_lower_1.jpg the flexible pipe does not appear to be fully seated into the pancake pipe coming from the intercooler, I also do not see the wire clip that holds the two together. The oil around this area, the tractor sound and the total lack of power points me to this being your boost leak. Your change in sound and lack of power point to a large boost leak not a vacuum line issue.

 

[JETaah]

Getting the entire vacuum system out of the car to work on it is pretty easy. If you look at what the N75 and N18 valve are attached to it is a bracket held to the firewall by 2, 10mm headed nuts.
First detach the hoses from the turbo actuator, the antishudder valve solenoid valve, EGR valve actuator, air box, the vacuum reservoir ball, and vacuum supply nipple at the check valve right past the vacuum pump. Detach the electrical harness connectors from the N75, N18, ASV solenoid.
The whole assembly should be released at that point where you can pull it out with the hoses attached and put it on a bench.
Just duplicate the lengths of all the hoses and assemble it right there one by one and put the whole thing back in the car.

 

[RTIII]

In your picture Intercooler_ducting_lower_1.jpg the flexible pipe does not appear to be fully seated into the pancake pipe coming from the intercooler, I also do not see the wire clip that holds the two together. The oil around this area, the tractor sound and the total lack of power points me to this being your boost leak. Your change in sound and lack of power point to a large boost leak not a vacuum line issue.

I'm grateful for that observation, and, indeed, in looking at the photo, I quite agree, though at the time I took the image I was pretty sure it was OK... I'll be checking it!

Now, I've FINALLY gotten all the hoses changed... I have no flipping idea how the hell you're SUPPOSED to pull those two horizontal runs (1 line, 1 hose), from right to about center off the firewall / rain gutter, but prying downward got 'em out of the way and from there I could do the work.

And so NOW, filter changed, too, it runs but not great, though I think better, but it's not driving yet because it's still WAY up in the air. And that's good so now I'm able to easily get to checking that joint you call out! THANKS! On it next.

THEN, drive, and if not great THEN double check the ODBII codes!

 

[RTIII]

Getting the entire vacuum system out of the car to work on it is pretty easy. [...]

I'll take it as given you're right, but I hardly know what all those things even are! (Ignorant, remember!) And somehow, by the time I got your message, I already have the hoses changed.

 

[RTIII]

-ugh!-

It didn't fix it!

While I DID investigate the intercooler connection, as suggested, I DID find there was a wire "clamp" retaining it on all connections, it's just that those connections are not in good alignment. That said, I'd be surprised if they aren't sealing - there's no play whatsoever.

Here are the images that show the misalignment:

intercooler_joints_1.jpg

• RTIII
• May 3, 2023

Misalignment 1

intercooler_joints_2.jpg

• RTIII
• May 3, 2023

Misalignment 2

intercooler_joints_3.jpg

• RTIII
• May 3, 2023

Misalignment 3

These images were taken AFTER I'd finished changing the hoses and fuel filter and took it for a drive.

The original rattle is still there, AND the sounds of a diesel truck.

I know there's more that I already am aware of that can be done, but unfortunately, I'm out of time. It looks like it's time to hand this off, unfortunately. I'm not sure I CAN hand it off to anyone but I do have a prospect in mind...

I'll keep posting until the final disposition is known.

 

[Vince Waldon]

FWIW, in picture labeled joints_2 the joint appears to not be seated properly and so likely leaking boost.

Pretty common to have joints that won't stay seated... the little metal tabs that the locking wire hooks into are just aluminum and they wear out over time. New hoses are a fix $$$$$$$ but some folks just wire 'em together and motor on.

 

[csstevej]

Unless I’m mistaken….that first picture shows the pipe is cracked and broken…..

 

[ts888]

Unless I’m mistaken….that first picture shows the pipe is cracked and broken…..

I looked at that for a while and decided it was a piece of an old hose left over from a prior failure. But I'm blind in one eye and can't see with the other.

 

[braddies]

Intercooler joint 2 has room to move and snap into place

 

[RTIII]

FWIW, in picture labeled joints_2 the joint appears to not be seated properly and so likely leaking boost.

Pretty common to have joints that won't stay seated... the little metal tabs that the locking wire hooks into are just aluminum and they wear out over time. New hoses are a fix $$$$$$$ but some folks just wire 'em together and motor on.

The parts appear to be ROCK SOLID in their mountings; simple way to adjust them? I didn't even see how one would handle the wire rings from intercooler_joints_2.jpg? I sure don't want to go f-ing them up from my ignorance! It's not obvious.

I'd guess you start from the obvious screw mounting the one moulded part... SURE WISH I had a manual!

Unless I’m mistaken….that first picture shows the pipe is cracked and broken…..

You mean in intercooler_joints_2.jpg? I don't see the issue... But then, I saw the real thing!

Intercooler joint 2 has room to move and snap into place

If I saw how, I'd have done it last night; this is where ignorance (lack of information) is a b*&^h.

 

[RTIII]

Meanwhile, THIS cost me a LOT of time:

Being not my car and also something of an originality buff, I wasted a heck of a lot of time undoing these two to get them the hell out of the way:

clamp_right_1.jpg

• RTIII
• May 4, 2023

How on earth do you properly disconnect these?! I just pried 'em apart.

clamp_center_1.jpg

• RTIII
• May 4, 2023

Another one that prompts asking how on earth you properly disconnect these?! I just pried 'em apart.

 

[braddies]

At about 35 seconds he pulls the clips up with a screwdriver only 1/2 inch or so to disengage the hose, the clips stays on.
To reinstall the hose it just pushes into place and the clip clicks in.
If that one in the picture Intercooler joint 2 has an uneven gap between the hose and the mount you might try loosening the 10mm nut and wiggling the connection to get it to click in. Do we have any OBD or vagcom codes?

 

[RTIII]

At about 35 seconds he pulls the clips up with a screwdriver only 1/2 inch or so to disengage the hose, the clips stays on.
To reinstall the hose it just pushes into place and the clip clicks in.

Thanks, braddies... it happens so fast in the video, it's easy to not quite get what's happening! Looks like you just lift a little and it releases?! That's quite unlike anything I've ever dealt with before in a hose clamp!

If that one in the picture Intercooler joint 2 has an uneven gap between the hose and the mount you might try loosening the 10mm nut and wiggling the connection to get it to click in.

Thanks, I guess I'm on that one next!

Do we have any OBD or vagcom codes?

After driving it the other evening (night before last), I was so discouraged at no improvement after replacing the hoses, and I was so tired as it was after 8:30, I just gave up for the night and didn't get the codes. But, I can / will do as soon as I can.

Today I was going to bring it to a shop - this morning - but I called 'em this AM and UNFORTUNATELY, I lost my spot with them. This was the shop I already mentioned who agreed to violate their own rules and work on it even though "it's too old" - I should have secured the spot when I had the chance! - and now they're booked up until next Thursday! I NEED TO GET HOME! This is quite un-fun. ...I booked that spot as a backup and expect I'll be working on it until fixed or that spot opens up.

Today and tomorrow are booked, but Sunday's free...

 

[hskrdu]

I'm not sure I'd take it to a shop that said my car was too old!

 

[RTIII]

I'm not sure I'd take it to a shop that said my car was too old!

I'll keep working on it as long as I can. However, I actually talked to this one fellow and am pretty sure he "has a clue." I'm just very challenged for space and tools. With luck, I'll fix it first, or second best, know exactly what's actually wrong with it by then. That helps a lot!

HEAVY RAIN RIGHT NOW! And, rain is expected through to 1AM tonight, with a grand total of about 2" of rain - not that much for NOLA, but with the wind, it wouldn't be fun working in that carport I've got the car in now.

 

[RTIII]

I'm going to work on it more in the next hour or so, but it occurred to me to ask:

If it's gone into "limp mode," what brings it out of it for another try? Do I have to reset it with the ODB2 reader? Some other method?

Thanks...

 

[P2B]

Cycling the ignition resets limp mode.

 

[RTIII]

Cycling the ignition resets limp mode.

Bummer; that means each time we get a fresh crack at it and therefore whatever I did before didn't fix it!

I've just collected up the tools and now get to walk the 1/2 mile to where the car is and start away afresh. The current plan is to try and correct the turbo to intercooler link. And, to try again with the ODB2 codes.

 

[braddies]

As I understand it limp mode is always accompanied by a flashing glow plug light on the dash

 

[csstevej]

As I understand it limp mode is always accompanied by a flashing glow plug light on the dash

Nope…. Won’t get a flashing GP light.

 

[dieseldonato]

Those clip o-ring hose connections are straight garbage imo. Fought with the one on my car to get it seated and clipped in. Popped out just like your picture shows. Although i was pretty close to home, so I just turned it around and drove the truck that day.... working to eliminate it.

 

[RTIII]

FINALLY GOT GOOD ODB2 (DTC) CODE!



Yes, code, not codes; there's only ONE.

P1252 - which for VW/Audi it says:

"Start of Injection Solenoid Circ Open/Short to Ground"

(I'm pretty sure that's character by character - the unit is a SEEKONE SK860, if that matters.)

OK! ... Uh... Electrical problem, I gather - and I'd GUESS not a wiring problem but a sensor issue. Thoughts, please!

P.S. For "pending" it said "None" and Permanent, "Vehicle Does Not Support" ...

 

[RTIII]

It's NOT fuse 34 - found out about that one and checked already!

Now, looking for WHERE that pesky component belongs in the engine bay to maybe try and reseat the wiring!

Um... Just A Guess; would it be a part of one of the assemblies where I just changed all the hoses?

 

[dieseldonato]

Pretty sure thats in the injection pump. But it says circuit short or open. Could be a wiring harness issue to the injection pump as well