Trimming the accessory bracket on an ALH?

Nozzleman

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2014
Location
About 15 miles from Venus
TDI
2002 Ford Ranger ALH
It was time for the 300K oil pump check and chain replacement in addition to the timing belt so I pulled the engine out because the pan won’t come off otherwise.

I had the A/C bracket bolted to the passenger side of the engine using the 3 10mm(?) bolts on the front of the block and one on the exhaust manifold. One of the bolts also held a pulley that I used to route the belt and when I took it apart I discovered that the ear on the block broke at some point in the past but was still captured by the clamping force.

There is not enough room to run the compressor and alternator on the driver’s side in the original configuration and it appears from a plumbing standpoint it would be best to run the alternator on the passenger side and the compressor on the driver side.

I put a yellow line on the accessory bracket and was wondering if it will take too much strength out of it if I need to cut it that far? I don’t think I am going to have to cut it that far but I do know I will have to prune it a bit to expose the boss that is currently 1/2 covered in the top right corner and reduce some of the ribs at what is now the bottom towards the crank pulley end.

Thoughts anyone?
 

03Golfer

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Location
Canada
TDI
03 Golf, 92 Toyota swap (ongoing)
What year is the block from? I believe in 2003 the boss thickness went from about 13mm to 16mm due to this exact problem. Something to keep in mind for anyone shopping for an engine 😀
 
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