Transmission oil 1.9 Tdi

[Akvwtdi]

The OP will be lucky if 5th gear hasn't been trashed. The 5th Gear set/assembly suffers first when the oil level goes down (search my Photo Albums).
I'm amazed that the bottom of the Transmission (and car) isn't loaded with a very sticky slick of oil....... where did it go?

I switched all of my manual shift vehicles to Synchromesh about three or four years ago.

The transmission in my 84 TDI Vanagon has almost 89k miles on it (I built it and put in service, 8/12). I also switched it to Synchromesh. Anyway, I am building a replacement transmission for it. I plan to use Synchromesh in it as well. So far, I have over $3,000 in parts ready for the build!

Anyway, rebuilding Bus and Vanagon transmissions and being inside a few TDI transmissions, I've not seen anything that looked like Synchros dissolving, corroding or rotting away. What I have seen is badly worn lands (grooves) on the Brass Synchro Ring that ride on the Gear Cone. I very seldom see worn teeth on the Synchro Ring. I do see worn teeth on the Cone where the Slider meshes as well as worn Slider teeth. Anyway, once those grooves on the Synchro Ring are worn down it no longer functions properly, thus raking/grinding when shifting. I suppose a heavier oil would help.

Lastly, a slightly dragging clutch disc for whatever reason can affect how well the transmission shifts.

Sorry I've asked so much about this but I just wanted to clarify somethings. I know you said to wash the transmission but I haven't bought a power washer yet. Now the leak, it's literally pouring out so much and I wanted to ask if it would be leaking anywhere else besides the shaft seals? I noticed a few different seals searching but are these the parts I would need for the job and would this fix my problem? I did replace the transmission gasket cover which was leaking as well.

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Also with the transmission going dry you mentioned the 5th gear may have been affected. Im sure the transmission is beat up a little bit but it's been over a year and still driving good. I guess once the oil is full there really is now issue with shifting.

The only thing that might be happening is when its parked at an incline it will want to knock when I put it in reverse but that could because the oil level is always falling and 2nd will grind a little if I put into gear too fast so I gently engage it if needed.

So the cover side will I be able to see any damage that may have occurred from this event and can I do any repairs? I've seen videos about replacing gears from there. What thicker gl4 is there. Just a higher weight? Really im wondering how long it will go or if any serious damage was caused.

 

[AndyBees]

If you've been driving it for a year and it seems okay, likely it is okay.
Seems 90w-140 is the heaviest GL-4 or 5 I've seen.
Yes, 5th gear is accessible by removing the end cover. To remove the splined gear, I modified a two-jaw puller by grinding down the jaws so they could be fit in the tight space. The other gear and shifter assembly comes off easily.
You can use JB Weld to stop leaks. But, you'll need to drain the transmission to reduce the downward pressure of the oil. Clean the area(s) really well with carb cleaner or something similar. I've seen numerous oil pans with JB Weld successfully keeping the oil inside.
I'm surprised that the CV flange seals are leaking. Is it possible the transmission is overfilled?

 

[Akvwtdi]

If you've been driving it for a year and it seems okay, likely it is okay.
Seems 90w-140 is the heaviest GL-4 or 5 I've seen.
Yes, 5th gear is accessible by removing the end cover. To remove the splined gear, I modified a two-jaw puller by grinding down the jaws so they could be fit in the tight space. The other gear and shifter assembly comes off easily.
You can use JB Weld to stop leaks. But, you'll need to drain the transmission to reduce the downward pressure of the oil. Clean the area(s) really well with carb cleaner or something similar. I've seen numerous oil pans with JB Weld successfully keeping the oil inside.
I'm surprised that the CV flange seals are leaking. Is it possible the transmission is overfilled?

At this point I'm not even draining it just adding until it dribbles out. That was something someone said you can do on this forum. Hope that's okay.. but it's losing all oil. I have to fill it up twice a month

 

[AndyBees]

Yeah, filling until it dribbles out is what I've always done.

Well, I've never replaced the Drive Flange seals on one of these transmissions ......... never seen one leak there. So, installing the seals is something I have no experience. But, I've replaced them on numerous Bus and Vanagon transmissions while they were sitting on the work bench .. no big deal. And, it may be an easy task on the TDI transmission even while it is still in the vehicle.

Hopefully, others will chime-in and give some advice and guidance.

 

[Akvwtdi]

Sorry I know you said before you weren't qualified on that but thank you for all your information! I'm trying to get another car so I can park this one before it breaks. I have a 2000 mazda millenia super charged but it has a multi cylinder misfire that may just need a battery or I have a fuel delivery problem as well that's something entirely different.

 

[Akvwtdi]

The gasket comes with the cover and is not sold separately. That is assuming you have the ALH engine. They also don't clean up well. Simply looking at the photos I can tell the cover is most likely culprit to most of the oil slick. The oil feed line is not going to get that much oil on it from there though, so it's liable to either not be sealed, or failing.
The return oil line at the bottom of the turbo should be inspected after everything is cleaned up
As everyone else said clean it up real well, I go to a self serve car wash, and see where the oil comes from.

Egr seals need replaced and likely the egr itself too.

Sorry I know this is old but are these the only parts I need if I'm replacing the seals? I haven't gotten around to cleaning the motor as I'm worried I'll mess something up because I haven't power washed an engine before. It's leaking so much now and Im hopping I can do the job without getting stalled underneath... and they want $350 per side which I dont have.

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Also about the valve cover again. I didn't realize that stupid mechanic didn't fix my valve cover. I mean he said he did and I've seen videos where people scrape the old gasket out a fill a new one? I have no idea what he did to mine.. but I recall just buying a new cover. Aren't they easy enough to swap out? In hopes this stops my oil leak..

What are the egr seals? I replaced the egr its self and all the gaskets that connects around the egr and egr cooler. Is that sufficient enough or did I miss something?

 

[Akvwtdi]

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Any reason my bell housing plug would be losing oil from there and that much or atleast some? It was gunked up when I pulled it off. But the two obscure pictures the first one is just beyond and down of the bell housing holes and the 2nd is to the far right if you can tell. It looks like fresh oil is around the top of the transmission. Any reason to replace the plug with a new one or could this be the transmission oil because it was so dirty? I'm trying to investigate but it's so tight down there and there is sooo much build up.

 

[csstevej]

That plug is just a dust cover don’t worry about changing it.
Chances are the vacuum pump is leaking and that’s where your oil is coming from .

 

[Akvwtdi]

I'll try and wash my motor/trans. See what's happening

 

[Akvwtdi]

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Does anyone know where this transmission oil is coming from? If you zoom in you can see the purple going along that line.

 

[Akvwtdi]

The leak looks to be coming from just the bottom part.

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[dieseldonato]

If it's coming out the holes in the bottom of the bell housing I'd hazard a guess of the rear main seal, lr possibly yhe input shaft seal. but if it's coming from above and dripping down, there are really only a few things it could be. Valve cover gasket, vac pump, or( unlikely) the turbo oil feed. Don't think there's really any way the transmission would leak oil out the top, that wouldn't be obvious.

 

[Akvwtdi]

Thank you. It didn't look to be coming from shaft seals after whipping them down just a continuous flow from the bottom of the bellhousing.

 

[Akvwtdi]

The transmission oil is literally coming from where these arrows are pointing as soon as i turn the car on. The 2nd picture you can see that gap and there were some pebbles I plucked out with a pick but I don't know what's happening here.

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[Akvwtdi]

I'm so confused on these seals. Sorry thanks everyone.

 

[AndyBees]

The transmission oil is literally coming from where these arrows are pointing as soon as i turn the car on. The 2nd picture you can see that gap and there were some pebbles I plucked out with a pick but I don't know what's happening here.

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Well, the two photos are not really good in my opinion. But, if the area is what I'm thinking, the oil must be coming from the input shaft. However, it amazes me that it would begin to leak as soon as you start the engine. Oil in the transmission lubes via moving parts ....... i.e., there is no pump in a 5-speed transmission.

 

[jokila]

Could have a crack in the face of the input shaft area. Adding fresh fluid will allow the level to rise enough to leak through.

 

[Akvwtdi]

There is a puddle of transmission oil forming below this black connector. You can see part of it inside the circle. Hard to focus the camera when it's so deep.

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[Akvwtdi]

Maybe these are better. I found this bolt completely loose where the arrow is pointing and tightened it as much as I could. I checked the other bolts and they all seem dead tight.

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Here you can see its been smacked along the white line but it has been leaking the last 2 years I've had it.

 

[jokila]

There is a puddle of transmission oil forming below this black connector. You can see part of it inside the circle. Hard to focus the camera when it's so deep.

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That's not where it would pool up as it's the top of the trans. Coolant, yes, but that's on the top near the shift cable bracket.

EDIT: Well, the slave cylinder could be the source for fluid.

 

[AndyBees]

Maybe these are better. I found this bolt completely loose where the arrow is pointing and tightened it as much as I could. I checked the other bolts and they all seem dead tight.

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Here you can see its been smacked along the white line but it has been leaking the last 2 years I've had it.

After clicking on your pics, I was able to see them better..

The bolt you tightened is for the transmission to the engine ........ has nothing to with oil leaking from the transmission.

If there is oil dripping out the bottom between the bell housing part of the transmission and the engine, it must be coming from the input shaft seal or a crack in the transmission as someone suggested.

If there is transmission oil on top of the transmission as you think in one of the photos, well, it is because the flywheel is slinging it 360 degrees and it comes out where it can.

Does the clutch feel okay?

 

[Akvwtdi]

The clutch pedal itself has always felt stiff or solid and It feels like I have to bury it before I can complete my shift. Though the driver seat is permanently set back further so it feels like I have to stretch for it. I haven't driven very many manuals but this clutch does feel different, but it works fine I guess but I don't think it's slipping and it springs right back. I drove 85 in miles today in a 7 hr period and it lost close 200 ml if that's any importance.

 

[AndyBees]

Well, after learning to click on your photos for a better view............ I copied this one. It definitely shows that the flywheel is slinging oil.
So, my suspects are even stronger that the input shaft seal is bad or there is a crack in the transmission inside the bell housing on the business end.
There is zero reason for transmission oil being up there unless something is seriously wrong inside.

 

[dieseldonato]

It's not engine oil for sure. It looks clear or possibly redish tint to it. You would notice a slave cylinder leak by the brake fluid getting low, or the pedal needing pumped up to shift. My money would be qith @AndyBees input shaft or crack in the bell end of the trans.

 

[AndyBees]

Wow! I did not realize this Thread goes back to September, 2021 and that I had participated in the discussion so much.

The EGR leaking oil is a known issue. The seal wears out that the Valve stem is in. It is a non-serviceable item. The oil is in the blow-by mist and a little comes from the turbo. The boost pressure pushes the oil out anywhere it can ...... a bad seal in the EGR allows it to weep out. Also, a very small amount of seepage over a long period of time will look like a lot. As I suggested many months ago, that engine needs a scrub down big-time.

A cheap Chinese EGR can be purchased on eBay for under $30.

EDIT: Also, considering the transmission was basically bone dry (based on your very early comments), I doubt it will last much longer. I'd try to find a good used one.

 

[Akvwtdi]

Sorry I'm all over the place but it has a new egr valve and I'll see what I can do with a car wash.But if it's cracked what would you do? Does that involve any connections to the engine or block? Is it just the bellhousing that would need replacing? Or is it worth buying a new transmission?

 

[AndyBees]

The Bell Housing is a part of the transmission and is not removable. If there is a crack, well, it is likely useless. No one would attempt to weld it.
My son owns my old 2000 Jetta TDI. It is pushing past 390k miles. He uses it as a relay vehicle with his railroad job. I've kept it in top notch condition for him. He's been driving it since about 335k miles. I doubt it could be sold for $1500 in this neck of the woods. But, where could he find something for $1500 in basically perfect mechanical condition that produces 48-52 MPGs tank after tank?

So, is it worth is up to you!

 

[Akvwtdi]

Yeah I think so. I've been wanting to pull this thing out. This is going to be interesting.. Thanks to everyone!

 

[eddieleephd]

Sorry I know this is old but are these the only parts I need if I'm replacing the seals? I haven't gotten around to cleaning the motor as I'm worried I'll mess something up because I haven't power washed an engine before. It's leaking so much now and Im hopping I can do the job without getting stalled underneath... and they want $350 per side which I dont have.

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Also about the valve cover again. I didn't realize that stupid mechanic didn't fix my valve cover. I mean he said he did and I've seen videos where people scrape the old gasket out a fill a new one? I have no idea what he did to mine.. but I recall just buying a new cover. Aren't they easy enough to swap out? In hopes this stops my oil leak..

What are the egr seals? I replaced the egr its self and all the gaskets that connects around the egr and egr cooler. Is that sufficient enough or did I miss something?

Yes the EGR is good, there are only exhaust style crush gaskets.

the valve cover often gets over torqued and bent causing it to leak. I use a screwdriver style nut driver to tighten it, and that’s plenty.