I found on other posts where a basic procedure was posted. I thought I would just add some details. My apologies if I repeat some of what others have posted while I incorporate it into this one.
Disconnect your negative battery cable. You will be removing the wires from your starter so you need to be sure to avoid sparks.
I lifted the car and supported the engine with a jack stand and wood block under the oil pan from below. You can certainly support from the top as recommended, but both will work.
Remove front wheels and follow axle removal process. You don't need to break loose the hub bolt. Leave those connected and just remove the 6 bolts from each axle and swing them aside from transmission.
Support transmission with transmission jack and chain. That is transmission jack AND chain. This may get slippery with spilled fluid, etc.
Remove transmission mounts. You will need a 16mm wrench to hold the bolts while loosening the nuts. The passenger side is located underneath the heat shield. As shown in pic below.
Follow sub-frame lowering procedure from BSM replacement posts. Lower sub-frame all the way. All subframe bolts need to be removed as well as the lower front strut bolts. Removing them will allow the subframe to be lowered even more. You will need all the room you can get.
Begin to lower the transmission by tilting downward. Once low enough, access the 3 8mm Allen bolts on each side of the transmission to remove the transmission mount, side mounts. This helps narrow the transmission to make it easier to clear the subframe. This is also a good time to disconnect the electrical connectors to the transmission as well as disconnect the shift linkage. The shift linkage just pops off using a simple door panel pry tool or similar.
There is one bolt holding the fluid lines to the transmission on the driver side. Remove that bolt. Disconnect the lines by pulling them straight out. You will lose some fluid here so have some rags or drain pan handy. I found some old plastic plugs that I used to plug into the transmission to stop the fluid. The lines can be shoved upward so gravity keeps them from dripping.
Remove starter. There are 2 bolts. I suggest removing the 2 bolts. Then pull and rotate starter out. Once out, you can remove the nut holding the wire terminals to free the starter.
Now you will be able to access the teeth of the flexplate. I used a flat screwdriver to rotate the engine using the teeth. You can actually move it quite easily this way once you find the rhythm. I rotated it until I saw the torque converter (TC) bolt.
Next was my only real surprise of the project. The TC bolts are a torx 55. My set only went to 50 so I had to take a break and go get a bit from the auto parts store.
These torx heads are quite shallow so be sure you have flat engagement of the bit before turning the wrench. In order to turn the wrench you will need to counter hold the engine from turning. I used the flat screwdriver in the inspection hole on the driver side as shown.
As long as you ensure full engagement of the teeth with the screwdriver there should be no worries of damaging the teeth on the flexplate.
Now move on to the transmission bolts. I found the easiest way to access the upper bolts was to use long extensions with a wobble adapter. You will basically attach the socket wrench way behind the transmission with about 2-3 feet of extension on the sockets. That gives you room to turn the wrench for leverage. The upper most bolt needs specific attention for 2 reasons. One is that you have to hold some hoses out of the way to access it. The other is to pay attention to which hole it is coming out of. When you go to put it back, don't spend extra time trying to get the threads started in the wrong hole. (I will add here the obligatory, "ask me how I know") The lower bolts are accessed from the front easily since the subframe is lowered. The odd bolt is the lower one on the driver side. You will need an 8mm Allen to counter hold the bolt. I suggest an old school simple Allen wrench as shown.
Once all bolts are removed you are ready to start pulling the transmission back away from the engine. Initial disconnect is easy but you have to get the TC off of the flexplate. It is kind of stuck at the center pilot. Do not pry on the flexplate. I found that little adjustments up and down helped, but I eventually had to slide a thin piece of steel up toward the center to gently tap and wiggle it free. You will likely lose some fluid at this point because the TC will pull away from the transmission slightly.
Work the transmission down and out with the TC. Remove old TC. Inspect pump teeth for damage. None was found as shown. Replace with new one. Mine came with some fluid in it. Be sure it seats. I would describe this as seating twice. It clicks in once then continue to rotate until it fully clunks down into position.
Flush the cooler lines by using low pressure air. I regulated down to below 10 psi on the compressor. Blow through one line and catch the fluid from the other. Then pump fluid through the lines until it comes out clean from the other one. To pump fluid use the method shown in the transmission fill procedure. Air hose into bottle and hose coming from top.
I replaced the o-rings on the fluid lines. I bought a seal for the TC but since mine was fine, I chose not to replace it.
Basically, put everything back together. Ensure one of the TC bolt holes are aligned with the hole in the flexplate visible in the starter hole before you shove the transmission back up against the engine. If you bolt up the transmission without lining these up you will have to turn the TC without turning the flexplate. Probably have to mess with gear shift to put in gear and turn axle flanges to line up. Just easier to line it up first.
I noted that it is actually easier to reinstall the axle bolts while the subframe was still lowered. You wouldn't normally lower the subframe to remove the axles, but they are easier to get to so take advantage of that. Be sure to put the side mounts back on the transmission before you raise it all the way into position or you won't be able to get them back on very easily. Also, I found that re-attaching the shift linkage was easy with the side mount still removed. You can get a good grip to squeeze it back on that way.
Once all is back together, I drained the fluid from the pan. I decided not to do a full pan drop and filter replacement. My cooler lines had no debris when flushed, and I had changed the fluid and filter about 30k miles ago. Since I didn't have a new filter handy, I decided to just drain and refill. I had no reason to suspect any other damage or debris.
Follow transmission fill procedure. I filled it first without engine running to simply replace what I had pulled out. I was also curious how under filled it would be by replacing the TC. It turns out there must not have been much fluid in the new TC because I had to add a lot of fluid once I ran the engine. Therefore, I suggest adding fluid to the TC before you install. I normally would have, but I saw fluid in there, but apparently not enough.
I am sure I left out a few things. I hope this was helpful, though. Thanks to this forum for providing so much information on projects like this. I certainly welcome any edits to this to make it better.